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CORNBREAD NATION
The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South.MAZZONI’S CAFE
In 1884 Phillip Mazzoni opened Mazzoni’s, a tavern on Third and Market streets in downtown Louisville. Along with beer, Phillip sold a few items to augment his business: hot dogs, boiled eggs, and the iconic Louisville bar food, rolled oysters. As far as anyone knows, the Mazzoni family originated the rolled oyster: a trio of a few bivalves rolled in a thick breading and then fried. When COUNTER HISTORIES: JACKSON In this piece we hear from Colia Clark, Joan Trumpauer Mulholland, Bill Minor, Daphne Chamberlain and Reverend Ed King about the historic sit-in at the 1963 Woolworth's lunch counter in Jackson, Mississippi. BILL’S GREEK TAVERN After serving as a cook in the Greek Navy, Bill Matheos immigrated to the United States in 1968. After a decade of living in the States and operating a burger joint, LUMBEE INDIANS OF NC: WORK AND COOK AND EAT Glenn Hunt was born and raised on the Long Swamp, a nickname for his rural farming community in Maxton, North Carolina. “They say there wasn’t no one here at one time but Indian folks,” he says, “and when you come to Long Swamp they didn’t know but one thing, and that was to work and cook, and eat.” THE QUEER PLEASURES OF TAMMY WYNETTE’S COOKING by Mayukh Sen. Some women are doomed to be misunderstood their whole lives. With Tammy Wynette, the misperceptions persist in death. The First Lady of Country Music drew her last breath two decades ago, but people still interpret her most famous single, 1968’s “Stand by Your Man,” as a song that condones spousal infidelity or abuse. SFA PIHAKIS FOODWAYS DOCUMENTARY FILMMAKER: A CALL FOR The Southern Foodways Alliance seeks a full-time producer/director to make films that document the food stories of the American South. The work of SFA’s Pihakis Foodways Documentary Filmmaker will include, but not be limited to, archival research, interviewing, editing, following up with film subjects, preparing film materials for deposit in the SFA’s archive, identifying and overseeing LESLIE AND JUNE SCOTT In 1965, he and his wife, June, cured their first 100 hams. Soon, their business grew, and today they cure thousands of hams annually. The Scotts do so by hand, with just one full-time employee. They keep things simple. They do things the old-fashioned way. Leslie fills a five-dollar bathtub with hickory chips and lights a fire therein to smoke the meat. He is also one of the few producers who SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South. THE FINE LEGACY OF LUCILLE’S The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South.CORNBREAD NATION
The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South.MAZZONI’S CAFE
In 1884 Phillip Mazzoni opened Mazzoni’s, a tavern on Third and Market streets in downtown Louisville. Along with beer, Phillip sold a few items to augment his business: hot dogs, boiled eggs, and the iconic Louisville bar food, rolled oysters. As far as anyone knows, the Mazzoni family originated the rolled oyster: a trio of a few bivalves rolled in a thick breading and then fried. When COUNTER HISTORIES: JACKSON In this piece we hear from Colia Clark, Joan Trumpauer Mulholland, Bill Minor, Daphne Chamberlain and Reverend Ed King about the historic sit-in at the 1963 Woolworth's lunch counter in Jackson, Mississippi. BILL’S GREEK TAVERN After serving as a cook in the Greek Navy, Bill Matheos immigrated to the United States in 1968. After a decade of living in the States and operating a burger joint, LUMBEE INDIANS OF NC: WORK AND COOK AND EAT Glenn Hunt was born and raised on the Long Swamp, a nickname for his rural farming community in Maxton, North Carolina. “They say there wasn’t no one here at one time but Indian folks,” he says, “and when you come to Long Swamp they didn’t know but one thing, and that was to work and cook, and eat.” THE QUEER PLEASURES OF TAMMY WYNETTE’S COOKING by Mayukh Sen. Some women are doomed to be misunderstood their whole lives. With Tammy Wynette, the misperceptions persist in death. The First Lady of Country Music drew her last breath two decades ago, but people still interpret her most famous single, 1968’s “Stand by Your Man,” as a song that condones spousal infidelity or abuse. SFA PIHAKIS FOODWAYS DOCUMENTARY FILMMAKER: A CALL FOR The Southern Foodways Alliance seeks a full-time producer/director to make films that document the food stories of the American South. The work of SFA’s Pihakis Foodways Documentary Filmmaker will include, but not be limited to, archival research, interviewing, editing, following up with film subjects, preparing film materials for deposit in the SFA’s archive, identifying and overseeing LESLIE AND JUNE SCOTT In 1965, he and his wife, June, cured their first 100 hams. Soon, their business grew, and today they cure thousands of hams annually. The Scotts do so by hand, with just one full-time employee. They keep things simple. They do things the old-fashioned way. Leslie fills a five-dollar bathtub with hickory chips and lights a fire therein to smoke the meat. He is also one of the few producers whoTHE OUTSIDE FIRE
In The Outside Fire, documentarian and artist Tamika Galanis gives a glimpse into the Bahamian tradition of cooking over open fire, largely abandoned in the modern capital but preserved by communities in the surrounding Family Islands.See glowing Cascarilla branches, ash-covered Dutch ovens, and thieving yard fowl collide over a Saturday feast in South Cat Island’s Port Howe. THE FINE LEGACY OF LUCILLE’S The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South.GRAVY ITEMS
The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South. SFA MVP: AMYTHEST GANAWAY’S NORTH CHARLESTON I’m a writer, cook, and recipe developer. I’ve been living in Albuquerque for the past few years, but by the time you read these words, I’ll be back my hometown of North Charleston, South Carolina. BAHAMAS | SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South. SYRIAN-ISH: DAMASCUS MEETS LITTLE ROCK AT LAYLA’S Arab American and Middle Eastern immigrants have had a unique experience in the U.S. With a history that dates back more than 100 years, Arab Americans of every generation have brought their food and history with them, and have often used restaurants as a center of culture and a way to create their own American and Arab story. GRAVY ISSUE 79, SPRING 2021 Editor’s Note – Sara Camp Milam SFA MVP’s: North Charleston – Amethyst Ganaway Director’s Cut – John T. Edge Good Ol’ Chico – Gustavo Arellano In the Smoke with Marie Jean – Adrian Miller One Foot in the Soil and One in the Ocean – Matthew Raiford I’m THE MANSION: 1942-1967 For many years, Aubrey Seay managed the cafeteria at the University of Mississippi, establishing lifelong relationships with faculty and students alike. His love of the university and the surrounding town of Oxford, Mississippi, cemented his reputation before he evened opened the doors on his famous restaurant, The Mansion. For twenty-five years, The Mansion was the place to be. With his COUNTER HISTORIES: JACKSON In this piece we hear from Colia Clark, Joan Trumpauer Mulholland, Bill Minor, Daphne Chamberlain and Reverend Ed King about the historic sit-in at the 1963 Woolworth's lunch counter in Jackson, Mississippi. THE BRENNAN FAMILY OF NEW ORLEANS Beginning in 1910, six children– Owen, Dick, Adelaide, John, Ella, and Dottie Brennan– were born to Owen Brennan and Nellie Valentine in the Irish Channel neighborhood of New Orleans. Owen worked in the maritime industry until his retirement in the early 1940s. Owen Brennan, the son, was an astute businessman, known for his gregariouspersonality.
SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE The Southern Foodways Alliance drives a more progressive future by leading conversations that challenge existing constructs, shape perspectives, and foster meaningful discussions. We reconsider the past with research, scrutiny, and documentation. BECOME A MEMBERTODAY.
GRAVY ITEMS
A Pea for the Past, A Pea for the Future. The story of the West African diaspora in the American South is the story of the Transatlantic slave trade. But one of its staple foods, black-eyed peas, can be read as a symbol of resilience and hope. Gravy Podcast.GRAVY PODCAST
The SFA team is extremely excited to announce a brand new Southern Foodways Alliance audio initiative, launching later this year. Gravy: Stories from the Southern Foodways Alliance expands the Gravy brand—already established in print—to a bi-weekly, narrative podcast. Like all of the SFA’s work, Gravy shares stories of the changing American South through the foodsCORNBREAD NATION
Cornbread Nation 1. Cornbread Nation 1, edited by John Egerton, was the first anthology to gather the best of recent Southern foodwriting.
RECIPES IN BLACK AND WHITE The little cookbook entered the world in 2018, edited by a black professor and a white author, collected from members of a white church and a black church, maybe a peacemaker or maybe a disrupter, maybe too late or maybe right on time, but definitely in the right place. Wilmington, North Carolina, should be the most prosperous city forAfrican
A NAB IS A NAB IS A NAB 1. The word Nabs derives from a National Biscuit Company (Nabisco) product called “Peanut Sandwich Packet” that hit the market in 1924. The sleeve of snack crackers—priced at five cents and sealed for portability—became ubiquitous at filling stations, check-outcounters, milk
HAP TOWNES RESTAURANT In pretty much the same manner for almost sixty-five years, the two Hap Towneses of Nashville, father and son, served up Southern home cooking to a long line of faithful and appreciative customers. Hap the elder started the tradition in 1921 with a curbside eatery on wheels, literally a movable feast. Hap the younger took up the spoon and spatula when he returned form the war in 1946. THE QUEER PLEASURES OF TAMMY WYNETTE’S COOKING by Mayukh Sen. Some women are doomed to be misunderstood their whole lives. With Tammy Wynette, the misperceptions persist in death. The First Lady of Country Music drew her last breath two decades ago, but people still interpret her most famous single, 1968’s “Stand by Your Man,” as a song that condones spousal infidelity or abuse. LUMBEE INDIANS OF NC: WORK AND COOK AND EAT Lumbee Indians of NC: Work and Cook and Eat. September 2, 2014. Despite outsider attempts to push labels and identities, Lumbee Indians have endured shifting challenges to their authenticity as Indians; this is how they survived. Glenn Hunt was born and raised on the Long Swamp, a nickname for his rural farming community in Maxton,North Carolina.
A SALT STORY: WEST VIRGINIA SIBLINGS MINE THE PAST TOKANAWHA SALT WORKSSALT CAVE IN WVSALT CAVERNS WVSALT IN WEST VIRGINIASALT INDUSTRY WVSALT MINES IN VIRGINIA September 24, 2015. While West Virginia may be known for resources like coal, the country once turned to this mountain state for a culinary staple: salt. In this episode, we have the story of a seventh generation salt-making family, and how they’re reckoning with the industry’s dark past in order to find a way forward. Audio Player. SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE The Southern Foodways Alliance drives a more progressive future by leading conversations that challenge existing constructs, shape perspectives, and foster meaningful discussions. We reconsider the past with research, scrutiny, and documentation. BECOME A MEMBERTODAY.
GRAVY ITEMS
A Pea for the Past, A Pea for the Future. The story of the West African diaspora in the American South is the story of the Transatlantic slave trade. But one of its staple foods, black-eyed peas, can be read as a symbol of resilience and hope. Gravy Podcast.GRAVY PODCAST
The SFA team is extremely excited to announce a brand new Southern Foodways Alliance audio initiative, launching later this year. Gravy: Stories from the Southern Foodways Alliance expands the Gravy brand—already established in print—to a bi-weekly, narrative podcast. Like all of the SFA’s work, Gravy shares stories of the changing American South through the foodsCORNBREAD NATION
Cornbread Nation 1. Cornbread Nation 1, edited by John Egerton, was the first anthology to gather the best of recent Southern foodwriting.
RECIPES IN BLACK AND WHITE The little cookbook entered the world in 2018, edited by a black professor and a white author, collected from members of a white church and a black church, maybe a peacemaker or maybe a disrupter, maybe too late or maybe right on time, but definitely in the right place. Wilmington, North Carolina, should be the most prosperous city forAfrican
A NAB IS A NAB IS A NAB 1. The word Nabs derives from a National Biscuit Company (Nabisco) product called “Peanut Sandwich Packet” that hit the market in 1924. The sleeve of snack crackers—priced at five cents and sealed for portability—became ubiquitous at filling stations, check-outcounters, milk
HAP TOWNES RESTAURANT In pretty much the same manner for almost sixty-five years, the two Hap Towneses of Nashville, father and son, served up Southern home cooking to a long line of faithful and appreciative customers. Hap the elder started the tradition in 1921 with a curbside eatery on wheels, literally a movable feast. Hap the younger took up the spoon and spatula when he returned form the war in 1946. THE QUEER PLEASURES OF TAMMY WYNETTE’S COOKING by Mayukh Sen. Some women are doomed to be misunderstood their whole lives. With Tammy Wynette, the misperceptions persist in death. The First Lady of Country Music drew her last breath two decades ago, but people still interpret her most famous single, 1968’s “Stand by Your Man,” as a song that condones spousal infidelity or abuse. LUMBEE INDIANS OF NC: WORK AND COOK AND EAT Lumbee Indians of NC: Work and Cook and Eat. September 2, 2014. Despite outsider attempts to push labels and identities, Lumbee Indians have endured shifting challenges to their authenticity as Indians; this is how they survived. Glenn Hunt was born and raised on the Long Swamp, a nickname for his rural farming community in Maxton,North Carolina.
A SALT STORY: WEST VIRGINIA SIBLINGS MINE THE PAST TOKANAWHA SALT WORKSSALT CAVE IN WVSALT CAVERNS WVSALT IN WEST VIRGINIASALT INDUSTRY WVSALT MINES IN VIRGINIA September 24, 2015. While West Virginia may be known for resources like coal, the country once turned to this mountain state for a culinary staple: salt. In this episode, we have the story of a seventh generation salt-making family, and how they’re reckoning with the industry’s dark past in order to find a way forward. Audio Player.GRAVY PODCAST
The SFA team is extremely excited to announce a brand new Southern Foodways Alliance audio initiative, launching later this year. Gravy: Stories from the Southern Foodways Alliance expands the Gravy brand—already established in print—to a bi-weekly, narrative podcast.. Like all of the SFA’s work, Gravy shares stories of the changing American South through the foods we eat. RECIPES IN BLACK AND WHITE The little cookbook entered the world in 2018, edited by a black professor and a white author, collected from members of a white church and a black church, maybe a peacemaker or maybe a disrupter, maybe too late or maybe right on time, but definitely in the right place. Wilmington, North Carolina, should be the most prosperous city forAfrican
THE FINE LEGACY OF LUCILLE’S Chris Williams is the chef-owner of Lucille’s, a fine-dining Southern restaurant. He opened the Houston eatery in 2012 with his older brother Ben. A son of Texas with an international résumé, Williams invokes his travels—and his rich Black Texan history—in every dish he serves.GRAVY AUDIO
A Pea for the Past, A Pea for the Future. The story of the West African diaspora in the American South is the story of the Transatlantic slave trade. But one of its staple foods, black-eyed peas, can be read as a symbol of resilience and hope. Gravy Podcast. HAP TOWNES RESTAURANT In pretty much the same manner for almost sixty-five years, the two Hap Towneses of Nashville, father and son, served up Southern home cooking to a long line of faithful and appreciative customers. Hap the elder started the tradition in 1921 with a curbside eatery on wheels, literally a movable feast. Hap the younger took up the spoon and spatula when he returned form the war in 1946. RABBI STEPHEN SLATER Rabbi Stephen Slater, born in 1983, grew up the son of Baptist missionaries in West Africa. He attended Hillsdale College in Michigan where he studied philosophy and met his wife, Bethany. After marrying, the couple moved to Oxford, England, where his wife completed a degree in Jewish Studies. Next they moved to Israel, where Slater obtained BILL’S GREEK TAVERN Bill’s Greek Tavern. After serving as a cook in the Greek Navy, Bill Matheos immigrated to the United States in 1968. After a decade of living in the States and operating a burger joint, Bill added recipes from his home island of Thasos. They didn’t take right away, but, soon enough, orders for the house specialty — fresh seafood, coated THE BRENNAN FAMILY OF NEW ORLEANS Beginning in 1910, six children– Owen, Dick, Adelaide, John, Ella, and Dottie Brennan– were born to Owen Brennan and Nellie Valentine in the Irish Channel neighborhood of New Orleans. Owen worked in the maritime industry until his retirement in the early 1940s. Owen Brennan, the son, was an astute businessman, known for his gregariouspersonality.
MAZZONI’S CAFE
In 1884 Phillip Mazzoni opened Mazzoni’s, a tavern on Third and Market streets in downtown Louisville. Along with beer, Phillip sold a few items to augment his business: hot dogs, boiled eggs, and the iconic Louisville bar food, rolled oysters. As far as anyone knows, the Mazzoni family originated the rolled oyster: a trio of a few bivalves rolled in a thick breading and then fried. WhenHAROLD SHINN
Buford Highway Farmers Market. Born to Korean immigrants in the United States, Harold Shinn picked up where his father left off, infusing Atlanta with a vast array of international grocery options. In 1974, Harold’s father opened Atlanta’s first Asian food store. After Harold’s freshman year at Emory, he helped his father lay the arrow left envelope headphones search facebook instagram twitter flickr menu rss play circle itunes calendarCalendar
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May 21-July 31, 2020 2020 SFA Virtual Field Trip: Cajun Country ⟶ June 10, 2020 at 6 p.m. ET Instagram Live Future Tense with John Hall June 17, 2020 at 6 p.m. ET Instagram Live Future Tense with Feizal Vallis July 7, 14, 21, and 28, 2020 at 1 ET on Instagram Live SFA Summer Suppers with Sheri CastleOct. 8-10, 2020
2020 SFA Fall SymposiumGo
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2020 SFA VIRTUAL FIELD TRIP: CAJUN COUNTRY Visit Cajun Country with an SFA virtual tour this summer.Gravy
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Patacón Latin Cuisine is a connection to home for the Latinx community on the Louisiana Gulf Coast, and a favorite spot…WORKING TOGETHER
WE CAN CULTIVATE PROGRESS. > The Southern Foodways Alliance drives a more progressive future by > leading conversations that challenge existing constructs, shape > perspectives, and foster meaningful discussions. We reconsider the > past with research, scrutiny, and documentation. BECOME A MEMBER TODAY Bill Smith _Crooks Corner_FEATURED
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Melissa Hall interviews Paul Burch about his creative process while making Trovatore: The Many Lives of Eugene Walter.Gravy Podcast
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Patacón Latin Cuisine is a connection to home for the Latinx community on the Louisiana Gulf Coast, and a favorite spot forLafayette locals.
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WILL THE YELLOW HOUSE TURN THE CORNER? An Atlanta building once housed a cherished restaurant before it became a magnet for the drug trade. Its next life…More Gravy
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FULL CIRCLE: THE BALLAD OF RODNEY AND ROSCOE This is a story about generational transfer, black entrepreneurship, and the future of barbecue in the Deep South.Film
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20 YEARS, 20 FOUNDERS: CHARLES WILSON Founding member Charles Wilson discusses SFA as an incubator for academics and the role of SFA in delivering academic ideas to apopular audience.
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Shop at SFA's new online store.Oral History
FAITH AND FOODWAYS IN ALABAMA Fellowship through food is a way for faith families to connect, convey culture, and share abundance. Listen to these faith leaders and congregation members speak of how they experience and express theirfaith through food.
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