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bimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS The oceanic back-trails and literary giants that have informed theauthor’s work.
THE ODD COUPLE
"Barry Dick Hoole and David ""Mexican"" Sumpter, two Australian legends of surf film, photography, and memorabilia, have endured the tough changes in the surf movie business over the years, constantly adapting to new markets and circumstances." THE ARCHIVIST: GEORGE GREENOUGH’S SHARK FILES When I first went to Australia in 1964, there were lots of stories about people getting taken or attacked by sharks. Everybody else was surfing on big longboards that you could pull your feet onto. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. CALL ME AT THE CRACK OF NOON There is an iconic image from the 1970s of a dusky woman in a swimsuit taking photos from a beach on the North Shore. Actually, there’s not just one, there are many shots of this woman staring into a bulky long-lens, her camera usually mounted on an old, Hollywood-style cinematic tripod with wooden legs sinking into the sand.In these photos, she’s young and fit and very exotic, often with THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS The oceanic back-trails and literary giants that have informed theauthor’s work.
THE ODD COUPLE
"Barry Dick Hoole and David ""Mexican"" Sumpter, two Australian legends of surf film, photography, and memorabilia, have endured the tough changes in the surf movie business over the years, constantly adapting to new markets and circumstances." THE ARCHIVIST: GEORGE GREENOUGH’S SHARK FILES When I first went to Australia in 1964, there were lots of stories about people getting taken or attacked by sharks. Everybody else was surfing on big longboards that you could pull your feet onto. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. CALL ME AT THE CRACK OF NOON There is an iconic image from the 1970s of a dusky woman in a swimsuit taking photos from a beach on the North Shore. Actually, there’s not just one, there are many shots of this woman staring into a bulky long-lens, her camera usually mounted on an old, Hollywood-style cinematic tripod with wooden legs sinking into the sand.In these photos, she’s young and fit and very exotic, often with STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Subscriptions . Our uniquely independent take on the surfing experience, delivered in peerless quality six times a year. Subscribe, Give TSJ as a gift, or renew your subscription. STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Not a Subscriber? A reader-supported surf publication founded in 1992, The Surfer’s Journal is vivid, authoritative, and independent. The goal of each 132-page bimonthly edition? ABOUT | THE SURFERS JOURNAL As a reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a truly unique periodical. It’s an independent take on the surfing experience with limited advertising, making each 132-page issue almost entirely editorial. We delve into topics that get little attention elsewhere, covering travel adventures, surfboard design, profiles of surfing’s most colorful subjects, and the choicest PROPERTIES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF In his debut graphic novel, titled In Waves, surfer and illustrator AJ Dungo explores the beauty and complexity of his relationship with his partner, Kristen, as they face her prolonged battle with osteosarcoma, or bone cancer.They share a passion for surfing; it’s a big part of their bond, and it’s the thing that will see Dungo through hisdarkest days.
THE HARBOUR CHRONICLES Rich Harbour started Harbour Surfboards in his parent's Seal Beach house in 1962 before moving into a nearby storefront, the only surf shop in town at the time and then to its current resting place on Main street. 43 years later, Harbour Surfboards is the world's oldest continually-operated surfboard shaping and retail operation. Steve Pezman chronicles the Harbour crew of the 1960's from the THE MATERIALS AT HAND In 1964, Bear Mirandon founded a small surfboard venture in a garage near WindanSea. The name he chose for his business, Surfboards La Jolla, neatly reflects the indigenous nature of the boards he and his brother Nick have designed over the years. KEEPERS OF THE LAST KELP FOREST In issue 24.2 of TSJ, I wrote a profile of of Ealey, whom I first met while researching my book Ghost Wave.After the book was published, even more folks contacted me with stories about Cortes. THE ARCHIVIST: GEORGE GREENOUGH’S SHARK FILES When I first went to Australia in 1964, there were lots of stories about people getting taken or attacked by sharks. Everybody else was surfing on big longboards that you could pull your feet onto.OF THE OLD BREED
Similar to surf culture, status in the world of country music stems from a blend of authenticity and talent. Skill is essential, but immersion in a certain lifestyle is a requisite toward singing believably about certain topics and with resonance. THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ARCHIVE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF Over the course of two and a half years, Dungo weaved illustration, personal tragedy, and surf history together to create In Waves, often working late into the night after clocking out of his nine-to-five. Photograph by Marlo Coloma. “Duke represented the blissful nature of surfing,” Dungo writes in the novel. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ARCHIVE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF Over the course of two and a half years, Dungo weaved illustration, personal tragedy, and surf history together to create In Waves, often working late into the night after clocking out of his nine-to-five. Photograph by Marlo Coloma. “Duke represented the blissful nature of surfing,” Dungo writes in the novel. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Subscriptions . Our uniquely independent take on the surfing experience, delivered in peerless quality six times a year. Subscribe, Give TSJ as a gift, or renew your subscription. ABOUT | THE SURFERS JOURNAL As a reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a truly unique periodical. It’s an independent take on the surfing experience with limited advertising, making each 132-page issue almost entirely editorial. We delve into topics that get little attention elsewhere, covering travel adventures, surfboard design, profiles of surfing’s most colorful subjects, and the choicest REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access SHUT AND PAINT: THE ART OF MILTON AVERY Shut Up and Paint. An American master leveraged the surf to help change the course of art history. By Bolton Colburn. Feature. Light / Dark. “In order to paint, one has to go by the way one does not know. Art is like turning a corner. One does not know what is around KEEPERS OF THE LAST KELP FOREST Brad lives in Long Beach. He’s a retired aerospace engineer whose life revolves around the islands, kelp forests, and reefs of the outer California Bight. San Nicolas and San Clemente islands are his playgrounds. But to Brad, nowhere is more special than the CortesBank.
ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF Over the course of two and a half years, Dungo weaved illustration, personal tragedy, and surf history together to create In Waves, often working late into the night after clocking out of his nine-to-five. Photograph by Marlo Coloma. “Duke represented the blissful nature of surfing,” Dungo writes in the novel. LIFE'S A BEACH: THE PHOTOGRAPHY OF RENNIE ELLIS Life’s a Beach. The photography of Rennie Ellis. Words by Phil Jarratt, photographs by Rennie Ellis. Feature. Light / Dark. In 1974, I was the editor-in-waiting of the Australian surfing magazine Tracks, then published out of an old shack at Whale Beach, north of Sydney. I was meant to be the editor then, but our publisher, Albert Falzon, had THE HOUSE ON BUTTERFLY LANE What was it like to be a surfer in the 50s? Danny Aaberg's piece on The Butterfly House gives a taste of the fun and wild times had by the traveling surfer in the early years of the sport. This article is an entertaining recollection about what a handful of Santa Barbara surfer's considered their sanctuary, known as The House on ButterflyLane.
THE ODD COUPLE
The Odd Couple. Note: Purchasing this feature will give you access to a downloadable .pdf of the feature. “Barry Dick Hoole and David “”Mexican”” Sumpter, two Australian legends of surf film, photography, and memorabilia, have endured the tough changes in the surf movie business over the years, constantly adapting to new marketsand
AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ARCHIVE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF Over the course of two and a half years, Dungo weaved illustration, personal tragedy, and surf history together to create In Waves, often working late into the night after clocking out of his nine-to-five. Photograph by Marlo Coloma. “Duke represented the blissful nature of surfing,” Dungo writes in the novel. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ARCHIVE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF Over the course of two and a half years, Dungo weaved illustration, personal tragedy, and surf history together to create In Waves, often working late into the night after clocking out of his nine-to-five. Photograph by Marlo Coloma. “Duke represented the blissful nature of surfing,” Dungo writes in the novel. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Subscriptions . Our uniquely independent take on the surfing experience, delivered in peerless quality six times a year. Subscribe, Give TSJ as a gift, or renew your subscription. UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the ABOUT | THE SURFERS JOURNAL As a reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a truly unique periodical. It’s an independent take on the surfing experience with limited advertising, making each 132-page issue almost entirely editorial. We delve into topics that get little attention elsewhere, covering travel adventures, surfboard design, profiles of surfing’s most colorful subjects, and the choicestTHE BROTHERS
Kimo Hollinger talks about surfing with Paul Gebauer on the North Shore of Hawaii in the late 1950s. The music of Richard Kauhi Quartet in Hawaii and the jazz scene, the comparison of blues music to the Hawaiian struggle. Adventures "knowing Miki Dora, Conrad Cauha and the funeral of Sandy Kahanamoku and surfing at Ala Moana Yacht Harbor" aretold.
SURF PROPERTY
At the quiet end of a practically-private golden sand beach with multiple warm, crystal clear surf breaks Just steps from the sand, the property comprises two airy, custom designed Tropical Zen style beachfront villas with four fully furnished apartment units, plus a thriving, turnkey vacation rental business that pays all expenses and maintenance and brings in a liveable income for part BALI’S FIRST SURFERS In the dry season of 1936, two young Americans traveled from Singapore to Bali by steamship, introducing themselves to their fellow guests at the Bali Hotel in Denpasar as Robert and Louise Koke. In fact Louise was the wife of the distinguished but drunken and philandering Hollywood screenwriter Oliver H.P. Garrett (A Farewell To Arms, DuelIn
KEEPERS OF THE LAST KELP FOREST Brad lives in Long Beach. He’s a retired aerospace engineer whose life revolves around the islands, kelp forests, and reefs of the outer California Bight. San Nicolas and San Clemente islands are his playgrounds. But to Brad, nowhere is more special than the CortesBank.
THE HOUSE ON BUTTERFLY LANE What was it like to be a surfer in the 50s? Danny Aaberg's piece on The Butterfly House gives a taste of the fun and wild times had by the traveling surfer in the early years of the sport. This article is an entertaining recollection about what a handful of Santa Barbara surfer's considered their sanctuary, known as The House on ButterflyLane.
LIFE'S A BEACH: THE PHOTOGRAPHY OF RENNIE ELLIS Life’s a Beach. The photography of Rennie Ellis. Words by Phil Jarratt, photographs by Rennie Ellis. Feature. Light / Dark. In 1974, I was the editor-in-waiting of the Australian surfing magazine Tracks, then published out of an old shack at Whale Beach, north of Sydney. I was meant to be the editor then, but our publisher, Albert Falzon, had AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ARCHIVE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF Over the course of two and a half years, Dungo weaved illustration, personal tragedy, and surf history together to create In Waves, often working late into the night after clocking out of his nine-to-five. Photograph by Marlo Coloma. “Duke represented the blissful nature of surfing,” Dungo writes in the novel. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ARCHIVE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ILLUSTRATOR AJ DUNGO BLENDS PERSONAL TRAGEDY AND SURF Over the course of two and a half years, Dungo weaved illustration, personal tragedy, and surf history together to create In Waves, often working late into the night after clocking out of his nine-to-five. Photograph by Marlo Coloma. “Duke represented the blissful nature of surfing,” Dungo writes in the novel. NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Subscriptions . Our uniquely independent take on the surfing experience, delivered in peerless quality six times a year. Subscribe, Give TSJ as a gift, or renew your subscription. UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the ABOUT | THE SURFERS JOURNAL As a reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a truly unique periodical. It’s an independent take on the surfing experience with limited advertising, making each 132-page issue almost entirely editorial. We delve into topics that get little attention elsewhere, covering travel adventures, surfboard design, profiles of surfing’s most colorful subjects, and the choicestTHE BROTHERS
Kimo Hollinger talks about surfing with Paul Gebauer on the North Shore of Hawaii in the late 1950s. The music of Richard Kauhi Quartet in Hawaii and the jazz scene, the comparison of blues music to the Hawaiian struggle. Adventures "knowing Miki Dora, Conrad Cauha and the funeral of Sandy Kahanamoku and surfing at Ala Moana Yacht Harbor" aretold.
SURF PROPERTY
At the quiet end of a practically-private golden sand beach with multiple warm, crystal clear surf breaks Just steps from the sand, the property comprises two airy, custom designed Tropical Zen style beachfront villas with four fully furnished apartment units, plus a thriving, turnkey vacation rental business that pays all expenses and maintenance and brings in a liveable income for part BALI’S FIRST SURFERS In the dry season of 1936, two young Americans traveled from Singapore to Bali by steamship, introducing themselves to their fellow guests at the Bali Hotel in Denpasar as Robert and Louise Koke. In fact Louise was the wife of the distinguished but drunken and philandering Hollywood screenwriter Oliver H.P. Garrett (A Farewell To Arms, DuelIn
KEEPERS OF THE LAST KELP FOREST Brad lives in Long Beach. He’s a retired aerospace engineer whose life revolves around the islands, kelp forests, and reefs of the outer California Bight. San Nicolas and San Clemente islands are his playgrounds. But to Brad, nowhere is more special than the CortesBank.
THE HOUSE ON BUTTERFLY LANE What was it like to be a surfer in the 50s? Danny Aaberg's piece on The Butterfly House gives a taste of the fun and wild times had by the traveling surfer in the early years of the sport. This article is an entertaining recollection about what a handful of Santa Barbara surfer's considered their sanctuary, known as The House on ButterflyLane.
LIFE'S A BEACH: THE PHOTOGRAPHY OF RENNIE ELLIS Life’s a Beach. The photography of Rennie Ellis. Words by Phil Jarratt, photographs by Rennie Ellis. Feature. Light / Dark. In 1974, I was the editor-in-waiting of the Australian surfing magazine Tracks, then published out of an old shack at Whale Beach, north of Sydney. I was meant to be the editor then, but our publisher, Albert Falzon, had AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access ESSAY | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access ESSAY | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
PROPERTIES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ABOUT | THE SURFERS JOURNAL As a reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a truly unique periodical. It’s an independent take on the surfing experience with limited advertising, making each 132-page issue almost entirely editorial. We delve into topics that get little attention elsewhere, covering travel adventures, surfboard design, profiles of surfing’s most colorful subjects, and the choicest PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com BOOKS | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com FAQ | THE SURFERS JOURNAL We’d be happy to assist you. Call: (949) 361-0331. Email: customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Our office hours are Monday-Friday 9am-5pm PST. International subscribers can reach usTHE BROTHERS
Kimo Hollinger talks about surfing with Paul Gebauer on the North Shore of Hawaii in the late 1950s. The music of Richard Kauhi Quartet in Hawaii and the jazz scene, the comparison of blues music to the Hawaiian struggle. Adventures "knowing Miki Dora, Conrad Cauha and the funeral of Sandy Kahanamoku and surfing at Ala Moana Yacht Harbor" aretold.
KEEPERS OF THE LAST KELP FOREST Brad lives in Long Beach. He’s a retired aerospace engineer whose life revolves around the islands, kelp forests, and reefs of the outer California Bight. San Nicolas and San Clemente islands are his playgrounds. But to Brad, nowhere is more special than the CortesBank.
THE ARCHIVIST: A RECKONING His goals having outdistanced his reach, San Diegan child-pro David Eggers fell from the surf world limelight before his 18th birthday.To the arena born, Eggers was a contest surfer above all else, and when that went awayso did he. Some years before his death from a heart attack at 45-years-of-age, writer Dean LaTourette asked Eggers to tellhim his story.
THE HOUSE ON BUTTERFLY LANE What was it like to be a surfer in the 50s? Danny Aaberg's piece on The Butterfly House gives a taste of the fun and wild times had by the traveling surfer in the early years of the sport. This article is an entertaining recollection about what a handful of Santa Barbara surfer's considered their sanctuary, known as The House on ButterflyLane.
OF THE OLD BREED
Of The Old Breed. Ryan Bingham on cutting his musical teeth in rodeo trailers and honky-tonks, picking up surfing on a hungover morning in wind-slopped Corpus Christi, and THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access ESSAY | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
THE SURFER'S JOURNALSUBSCRIBESTORECURRENT ISSUEFEATURESARCHIVEPROPERTIES A reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid and independent document delivering purist surf energy in eachbimonthly edition.
CURRENT ISSUE
On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject’s transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of South African big-wave surfing at EDITORIAL | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com STORE | THE SURFERS JOURNAL Monthly Subscription. $6.99 per month. Become a monthly subscriber to The Surfer’s Journal. Subscriber benefits include: Bi-monthly delivery of The Surfer’s Journal. 10% off everything in the TSJ store. Unlimited access to every article we’ve ever published. Email delivery of additional original TSJ content. UI ISSUES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL For the first issue in our 30th year of print, we lead off with an image as pure and irreproachable as the pursuit itself. The inner workings of TSJ 30.1 are framed by culture checks: Tracing the early 1960s surf-exploitation film genre, the underappreciated role sanders play in the surfboard-building process, and the recounting of the fantasy and realities of finding a surfing Eden by the REGISTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION Register Your Subscription | The Surfers Journal. Register Your Subscription. To create an account and register your subscription to access your benefits, please contact our Customer Service team by calling +1 (949) 361-0331, or email customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Register Now. To create an account and register your subscription to access ESSAY | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com AUTHOR BRYAN DI SALVATORE'S FAVORITE AUTHORS Bryan Di Salvatore has written for The New Yorker and many other magazines. He also features as William Finnegan’s globetrotting companion in Barbarian Days. The inclusion of his fiction in 26.1 marks his third appearance in TSJ, and our second deployment of anexcerpt from his
NATE TYLER SURFS AND CREATES KINETIC SCULPTURES AT HOME IN Light / Dark. TSJ 29.4’s “A Center of Gravity,” writer Travis Ferré spends an afternoon with professional surfer and artist Nate Tyler and family at their hand-built Central California home. As showcased, when he’s not launching off local wedges, Tyler buildskinetic
PROPERTIES | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com ABOUT | THE SURFERS JOURNAL As a reader-supported surf publication, The Surfer’s Journal is a truly unique periodical. It’s an independent take on the surfing experience with limited advertising, making each 132-page issue almost entirely editorial. We delve into topics that get little attention elsewhere, covering travel adventures, surfboard design, profiles of surfing’s most colorful subjects, and the choicest PRINT SHOP | THE SURFER'S JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com BOOKS | THE SURFERS JOURNAL 191 Avenida La Pata, San Clemente, CA 92673. Tel: 949-361-0331 contact@surfersjournal.com FAQ | THE SURFERS JOURNAL We’d be happy to assist you. Call: (949) 361-0331. Email: customerservice@surfersjournal.com. Our office hours are Monday-Friday 9am-5pm PST. International subscribers can reach usTHE BROTHERS
Kimo Hollinger talks about surfing with Paul Gebauer on the North Shore of Hawaii in the late 1950s. The music of Richard Kauhi Quartet in Hawaii and the jazz scene, the comparison of blues music to the Hawaiian struggle. Adventures "knowing Miki Dora, Conrad Cauha and the funeral of Sandy Kahanamoku and surfing at Ala Moana Yacht Harbor" aretold.
KEEPERS OF THE LAST KELP FOREST Brad lives in Long Beach. He’s a retired aerospace engineer whose life revolves around the islands, kelp forests, and reefs of the outer California Bight. San Nicolas and San Clemente islands are his playgrounds. But to Brad, nowhere is more special than the CortesBank.
THE ARCHIVIST: A RECKONING His goals having outdistanced his reach, San Diegan child-pro David Eggers fell from the surf world limelight before his 18th birthday.To the arena born, Eggers was a contest surfer above all else, and when that went awayso did he. Some years before his death from a heart attack at 45-years-of-age, writer Dean LaTourette asked Eggers to tellhim his story.
THE HOUSE ON BUTTERFLY LANE What was it like to be a surfer in the 50s? Danny Aaberg's piece on The Butterfly House gives a taste of the fun and wild times had by the traveling surfer in the early years of the sport. This article is an entertaining recollection about what a handful of Santa Barbara surfer's considered their sanctuary, known as The House on ButterflyLane.
OF THE OLD BREED
Of The Old Breed. Ryan Bingham on cutting his musical teeth in rodeo trailers and honky-tonks, picking up surfing on a hungover morning in wind-slopped Corpus Christi, andSkip to content
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