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15° F. this week.
IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants POISONOUS STRAWBERRY UPDATE: NOT TOXIC BUT EVIDENTLY Poisonous strawberry update: not toxic but evidently unpleasant on the palate. Posted on May 11, 2015 by Do Bianchi. A number of people posted comments on social media or wrote me offline after I posted the above photo a few days ago, taken in Montello (Veneto). One note came from Michele Fino, professor of food law and policy at the University IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
DO BIANCHI | DO BIANCHI Do Bianchi: The origin of the name. My pseudonym Do Bianchi (Venetian for "two glasses of white wine") came about when I was writing anonymously for The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana back when I first started working in NYC in the late 1990s. The editor and I wrote 90% of the content and so MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants POISONOUS STRAWBERRY UPDATE: NOT TOXIC BUT EVIDENTLY Poisonous strawberry update: not toxic but evidently unpleasant on the palate. Posted on May 11, 2015 by Do Bianchi. A number of people posted comments on social media or wrote me offline after I posted the above photo a few days ago, taken in Montello (Veneto). One note came from Michele Fino, professor of food law and policy at the University IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
DOLOMITE SUNRISE, A PRAYER FOR A FRIEND… La Jolla, Tuesday, June 8, 2021. How many sunsets have we watched together over that same horizon?How many berakoth have we parsed before we reached 13?How many gigs have we spun, you on skins, me on strings?How many repasts in confraternity, how many 750s in convivium?How many nights in Chandler’s America and Shakespeare’sItaly?How many
ITALIAN PARLIAMENT POISED TO APPROVE BILL THAT WOULD Above: over the last decade, organically branded food shops, like this ice cream shop and café, have flourished across Italy. In late May, the Italian senate approved a sweeping bill that would create a new "Italian organic" brand, officially recognized "organic districts," and sweeping subsidies for research, development, and monitoring of organic farming practices. TASTE WITH ME VIRTUALLY THIS FRIDAY IN LONG BEACH, IN It’s been nothing short of exhilarating to begin doing in-person tastings again. I’m really excited to announce that I’ll be doing an in-person tasting at Roma restaurant in Houston next Wednesday, June 2 at 6 p.m. CST.. As I’m getting out more and more, including a now sold-out Pecorino Toscano tasting I’m leading and a dinner I’m co-presenting at Eataly in Dallas next Thursday IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian IT’S TIME TO COUNTER FINE WINE’S HISTORIC HOSTILITY TO Above: American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z bought a Champagne house and launched his own wine after racist comments by a Champagne executive (photo via NRK-P3's Flickr Creative Commons). The American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z made headlines in 2014 when he purchased a historic Champagne house and announced his plan to launch his ownline of
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants WHY ISN’T OUR NATIONAL WINE MEDIA PAYING ATTENTION TO Above: the seemingly endless selection of sparkling wine at the Wine Country in Long Beach, California, where Samantha "Sans Dosage" Dugan has created one of the best programs in the country. Why our nation's mainline wine mastheads haven't paid more attention to Samantha Dugan's extraordinary sparkling wine selection at the Wine Country inLong Beach,
HOW DO YOU WISH SOMEONE A HAPPY PASSOVER? CHAG PESACH Happy Passover, everyone! Chag Pesach kasher vesame’ach! kosher and joyous Passover! There are so many ways to wish someone a happy Passover — in Hebrew, Yiddish, and English. Check them out here on Chabad.org. SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin CAN A SCREW-CAP WINE BE “CORKED”? CORKINESS ISN’T JUST And different types of taint — even TCA — can come into contact with the wine without affecting the cork itself. That’s why a cork-sealed bottle can be corked even when the cork doesn’t smell tainted. Screw-caps have undeniably helped to deliver more robust fitness in wine today. But as I see it, opening a bottle of wine isalways a gamble.
DO BIANCHI | DO BIANCHI Do Bianchi: The origin of the name. My pseudonym Do Bianchi (Venetian for "two glasses of white wine") came about when I was writing anonymously for The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana back when I first started working in NYC in the late 1990s. The editor and I wrote 90% of the content and so MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants POISONOUS STRAWBERRY UPDATE: NOT TOXIC BUT EVIDENTLY Poisonous strawberry update: not toxic but evidently unpleasant on the palate. Posted on May 11, 2015 by Do Bianchi. A number of people posted comments on social media or wrote me offline after I posted the above photo a few days ago, taken in Montello (Veneto). One note came from Michele Fino, professor of food law and policy at the University IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
DO BIANCHI | DO BIANCHI Do Bianchi: The origin of the name. My pseudonym Do Bianchi (Venetian for "two glasses of white wine") came about when I was writing anonymously for The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana back when I first started working in NYC in the late 1990s. The editor and I wrote 90% of the content and so MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants POISONOUS STRAWBERRY UPDATE: NOT TOXIC BUT EVIDENTLY Poisonous strawberry update: not toxic but evidently unpleasant on the palate. Posted on May 11, 2015 by Do Bianchi. A number of people posted comments on social media or wrote me offline after I posted the above photo a few days ago, taken in Montello (Veneto). One note came from Michele Fino, professor of food law and policy at the University IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
DOLOMITE SUNRISE, A PRAYER FOR A FRIEND… La Jolla, Tuesday, June 8, 2021. How many sunsets have we watched together over that same horizon?How many berakoth have we parsed before we reached 13?How many gigs have we spun, you on skins, me on strings?How many repasts in confraternity, how many 750s in convivium?How many nights in Chandler’s America and Shakespeare’sItaly?How many
ITALIAN PARLIAMENT POISED TO APPROVE BILL THAT WOULD Above: over the last decade, organically branded food shops, like this ice cream shop and café, have flourished across Italy. In late May, the Italian senate approved a sweeping bill that would create a new "Italian organic" brand, officially recognized "organic districts," and sweeping subsidies for research, development, and monitoring of organic farming practices. TASTE WITH ME VIRTUALLY THIS FRIDAY IN LONG BEACH, IN It’s been nothing short of exhilarating to begin doing in-person tastings again. I’m really excited to announce that I’ll be doing an in-person tasting at Roma restaurant in Houston next Wednesday, June 2 at 6 p.m. CST.. As I’m getting out more and more, including a now sold-out Pecorino Toscano tasting I’m leading and a dinner I’m co-presenting at Eataly in Dallas next Thursday IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian IT’S TIME TO COUNTER FINE WINE’S HISTORIC HOSTILITY TO Above: American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z bought a Champagne house and launched his own wine after racist comments by a Champagne executive (photo via NRK-P3's Flickr Creative Commons). The American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z made headlines in 2014 when he purchased a historic Champagne house and announced his plan to launch his ownline of
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants WHY ISN’T OUR NATIONAL WINE MEDIA PAYING ATTENTION TO Above: the seemingly endless selection of sparkling wine at the Wine Country in Long Beach, California, where Samantha "Sans Dosage" Dugan has created one of the best programs in the country. Why our nation's mainline wine mastheads haven't paid more attention to Samantha Dugan's extraordinary sparkling wine selection at the Wine Country inLong Beach,
HOW DO YOU WISH SOMEONE A HAPPY PASSOVER? CHAG PESACH Happy Passover, everyone! Chag Pesach kasher vesame’ach! kosher and joyous Passover! There are so many ways to wish someone a happy Passover — in Hebrew, Yiddish, and English. Check them out here on Chabad.org. SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin CAN A SCREW-CAP WINE BE “CORKED”? CORKINESS ISN’T JUST And different types of taint — even TCA — can come into contact with the wine without affecting the cork itself. That’s why a cork-sealed bottle can be corked even when the cork doesn’t smell tainted. Screw-caps have undeniably helped to deliver more robust fitness in wine today. But as I see it, opening a bottle of wine isalways a gamble.
DO BIANCHI | DO BIANCHI Do Bianchi: The origin of the name. My pseudonym Do Bianchi (Venetian for "two glasses of white wine") came about when I was writing anonymously for The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana back when I first started working in NYC in the late 1990s. The editor and I wrote 90% of the content and so MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage DALLA TERRA CEO/FOUNDER BRIAN LARKY AND I DISCUSS THE Please join me and Dalla Terra CEO and founder Brian Larky for our virtual discussion of the "State of the Italian Wine Trade" on Wednesday, March 17, 10 a.m. CST/8 a.m. PST. Click here to register for the webinar. The event is open to all. The event is part of the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin DO BIANCHI | DO BIANCHI Do Bianchi: The origin of the name. My pseudonym Do Bianchi (Venetian for "two glasses of white wine") came about when I was writing anonymously for The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana back when I first started working in NYC in the late 1990s. The editor and I wrote 90% of the content and so MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage DALLA TERRA CEO/FOUNDER BRIAN LARKY AND I DISCUSS THE Please join me and Dalla Terra CEO and founder Brian Larky for our virtual discussion of the "State of the Italian Wine Trade" on Wednesday, March 17, 10 a.m. CST/8 a.m. PST. Click here to register for the webinar. The event is open to all. The event is part of the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
DOLOMITE SUNRISE, A PRAYER FOR A FRIEND… La Jolla, Tuesday, June 8, 2021. How many sunsets have we watched together over that same horizon?How many berakoth have we parsed before we reached 13?How many gigs have we spun, you on skins, me on strings?How many repasts in confraternity, how many 750s in convivium?How many nights in Chandler’s America and Shakespeare’sItaly?How many
ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
PREMOX (PREMATURE OXIDATION) IN WHITE BURGUNDY: COULD Earlier this month, I had the immense fortune to attend a seminar with Jean-Marc Roulot of Domaine Roulot, legendary producer of Mersault. The event was part of the 2019 Boulder Burgundy Festival (I've been the gathering's blogger for the last six years). Everyone in attendance at the standing-room-only tasting was rapt with Jean-Marc'searnestness and
HOW I GOT A TABLE AT RAO’S… How I got a table at Rao’s. Posted on February 5, 2017 by Do Bianchi. Above: Rao’s restaurant in Spanish Harlem, one of the world’s most coveted reservations (image via Raos.com ). It was before September 11, when I was still working as an editor and wine writer at La Cucina Italiana in New York. One of my myriad tasks forthe magazine
BARBERA, THE ORIGIN OF THE GRAPE NAME (A PHILOLOGIST’S Barbera, the origin of the grape name (a philologist’s perspective) Above: An early 16th century medical manual lists barberry lozenges as a commonly used cure. In today’s world of hypercorrective ampelography, it’s hard to believe that people didn’t used to care as much about grape names as we do in the contemporary age. Writers on AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTI In 2008, when I attended the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium to hear my friend (and a man who has greatly inspired and informed my career) Darrell Corti deliver the keynote address at the meeting of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, he suggested that Aglianico could be an alternative to California's ubiquitous CabernetSauvignon,
DO BIANCHI | DO BIANCHI Do Bianchi: The origin of the name. My pseudonym Do Bianchi (Venetian for "two glasses of white wine") came about when I was writing anonymously for The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana back when I first started working in NYC in the late 1990s. The editor and I wrote 90% of the content and so LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage DALLA TERRA CEO/FOUNDER BRIAN LARKY AND I DISCUSS THE Please join me and Dalla Terra CEO and founder Brian Larky for our virtual discussion of the "State of the Italian Wine Trade" on Wednesday, March 17, 10 a.m. CST/8 a.m. PST. Click here to register for the webinar. The event is open to all. The event is part of the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin DO BIANCHI | DO BIANCHI Do Bianchi: The origin of the name. My pseudonym Do Bianchi (Venetian for "two glasses of white wine") came about when I was writing anonymously for The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana back when I first started working in NYC in the late 1990s. The editor and I wrote 90% of the content and so LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage DALLA TERRA CEO/FOUNDER BRIAN LARKY AND I DISCUSS THE Please join me and Dalla Terra CEO and founder Brian Larky for our virtual discussion of the "State of the Italian Wine Trade" on Wednesday, March 17, 10 a.m. CST/8 a.m. PST. Click here to register for the webinar. The event is open to all. The event is part of the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
DOLOMITE SUNRISE, A PRAYER FOR A FRIEND… La Jolla, Tuesday, June 8, 2021. How many sunsets have we watched together over that same horizon?How many berakoth have we parsed before we reached 13?How many gigs have we spun, you on skins, me on strings?How many repasts in confraternity, how many 750s in convivium?How many nights in Chandler’s America and Shakespeare’sItaly?How many
ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
AS ITALY LIFTS DINE-IN RESTRICTIONS, RESTAURANT OWNERS Above: a classic Italian trattoria in Florence (image via Adobe Stock). "Let me call you later," wrote an Italian winemaker in a text message around 1:30 p.m. Italian time today. "I'm eating lunch in a restaurant for the first time since dining rooms were closed three months ago." In all but five Italian regions, restaurants ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
PREMOX (PREMATURE OXIDATION) IN WHITE BURGUNDY: COULD Earlier this month, I had the immense fortune to attend a seminar with Jean-Marc Roulot of Domaine Roulot, legendary producer of Mersault. The event was part of the 2019 Boulder Burgundy Festival (I've been the gathering's blogger for the last six years). Everyone in attendance at the standing-room-only tasting was rapt with Jean-Marc'searnestness and
HOW I GOT A TABLE AT RAO’S… How I got a table at Rao’s. Posted on February 5, 2017 by Do Bianchi. Above: Rao’s restaurant in Spanish Harlem, one of the world’s most coveted reservations (image via Raos.com ). It was before September 11, when I was still working as an editor and wine writer at La Cucina Italiana in New York. One of my myriad tasks forthe magazine
BARBERA, THE ORIGIN OF THE GRAPE NAME (A PHILOLOGIST’S Barbera, the origin of the grape name (a philologist’s perspective) Above: An early 16th century medical manual lists barberry lozenges as a commonly used cure. In today’s world of hypercorrective ampelography, it’s hard to believe that people didn’t used to care as much about grape names as we do in the contemporary age. Writers on AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTI In 2008, when I attended the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium to hear my friend (and a man who has greatly inspired and informed my career) Darrell Corti deliver the keynote address at the meeting of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, he suggested that Aglianico could be an alternative to California's ubiquitous CabernetSauvignon,
DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
“THE ALLOCATION GAME IS OUT OF CONTROL.” OPINION BY BRETT "The social challenges of the last 24 months have prompted many in the greater wine community to advocate for more inclusion and equity in our industry. But with prices like this, some purveyors of fine wine seem to be moving in exactly the opposite direction." Please read "the allocation game is out of control," a WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin WHY IS IT CALLED PEPPERONI PIZZA (WHEN PEPPERS [SEEMINGLY The first reference to pepperoni in print is from 1919, Mr. Mariani said, the period when pizzerias and Italian butcher shops began to flourish here. Evidently, the sausage name is a corruption of the Italian peperoncino, as in the little peppers used to impart heat and color to the salami. DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
“THE ALLOCATION GAME IS OUT OF CONTROL.” OPINION BY BRETT "The social challenges of the last 24 months have prompted many in the greater wine community to advocate for more inclusion and equity in our industry. But with prices like this, some purveyors of fine wine seem to be moving in exactly the opposite direction." Please read "the allocation game is out of control," a WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LATE SPRING FREEZE ADDS TO ITALIAN WINEMAKERS’ WOES. Above: a farm in Montalcino burns hay to protect vineyards during a late spring freeze this week across central and northern Italy (image via the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium Facebook). According to a widely disseminated blog post by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, temperatures in the appellation have dropped to nearly15° F. this week.
SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin WHY IS IT CALLED PEPPERONI PIZZA (WHEN PEPPERS [SEEMINGLY The first reference to pepperoni in print is from 1919, Mr. Mariani said, the period when pizzerias and Italian butcher shops began to flourish here. Evidently, the sausage name is a corruption of the Italian peperoncino, as in the little peppers used to impart heat and color to the salami.ABOUT | DO BIANCHI
In 2007, food and wine historian, Italian translator, and rock musician Jeremy Parzen Ph.D. created his blog “Do Bianchi” to offer readers a humanist perspective into the world of Italian wine and food. Although much has been written about Italian gastronomy in this country over the last two decades, the great misunderstandingknown as the
IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian IT’S TIME TO COUNTER FINE WINE’S HISTORIC HOSTILITY TO Above: American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z bought a Champagne house and launched his own wine after racist comments by a Champagne executive (photo via NRK-P3's Flickr Creative Commons). The American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z made headlines in 2014 when he purchased a historic Champagne house and announced his plan to launch his ownline of
A BETTER TRANSLATION FOR “SPERONE CORDONATO.” FILM YEAST Sit tibi terra levis Iacobe. See this round-up of tributes to beloved winemaker and grape grower Jim Clendenen. News of his passing stunned a saddened and diminished wine world on Monday. I only had the opportunity to interact with him a few times but Tracie and I have always enjoyed the wines immensely. When we WHY ISN’T OUR NATIONAL WINE MEDIA PAYING ATTENTION TO Above: the seemingly endless selection of sparkling wine at the Wine Country in Long Beach, California, where Samantha "Sans Dosage" Dugan has created one of the best programs in the country. Why our nation's mainline wine mastheads haven't paid more attention to Samantha Dugan's extraordinary sparkling wine selection at the Wine Country inLong Beach,
THE ORIGINS OF SUGO ALLA PUTTANESCA? Above: spaghetti alla puttanesca. There's one thing we can all agree on: "sugo alla puttanesca" (literally "whoreish sauce") is made with tomatoes, olives, capers, salt-cured anchovies, garlic, and chili flakes (give or take an ingredient or two). There's no questioning that it tastes good. In the wake of my post-new-year's eve post "Taittinger alla puttanesca", POISONOUS STRAWBERRY UPDATE: NOT TOXIC BUT EVIDENTLY Poisonous strawberry update: not toxic but evidently unpleasant on the palate. Posted on May 11, 2015 by Do Bianchi. A number of people posted comments on social media or wrote me offline after I posted the above photo a few days ago, taken in Montello (Veneto). One note came from Michele Fino, professor of food law and policy at the University HOW MUCH DOES AN ITALIAN SPEEDING TICKET COST? It finally happened to me: yesterday I received a snail mail from a rental car agency in Italy informing me of an administrative fee ($50!) they had charged me for a forthcoming speeding ticket from the Italian police. They sent me a copy of the ticket but not the final fee. I've surmised that I IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
POETRY IS THE DEVIL’S WINE: ORIGIN AND MEANING OF THE Poetry is the Devil’s Wine: origin and meaning of the expression. In the 1980s, my high school’s literary magazine was called “The Devil’s Wine,” a reference to the ill-attributed and much misunderstood but often repeated proverb: poetry is the Devil’s wine. Most dime-store quotation aggregate websites ascribe the quoteto St
DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTIAGLIANICO GRAPE RED STILL WINEAGLIANICO GRAPE VARIETYAGLIANICO PRIMITIVOAGLIANICO PRONUNCIATIONAGLIANICO WINE PAIRING Darrell’s talk came to mind yesterday when sales rep and true wine connoisseur Tom Hunter of Revel Wines opened a bottle of Aglianico by the Giornata winery in Paso Robles. In my view, the legacy of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in California is the result of an epochal misunderstanding — a ripple of an “anxiety of influence,” to IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
L’SHANAH TOVAH: MAY YOU BE INSCRIBED AND SEALED IN THE On Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year, we eat apples and honey as a symbol of the sweet year ahead we hope G-d will grant us. .לשנה טובה תכתבי ותחתמי L'shanah tovah tikatevi v'taihatemi. .לשנה טובה תכתב ותחתם L'shanah tovah tikatev v'taihatem. May you and yours be inscribed and sealed [in DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTIAGLIANICO GRAPE RED STILL WINEAGLIANICO GRAPE VARIETYAGLIANICO PRIMITIVOAGLIANICO PRONUNCIATIONAGLIANICO WINE PAIRING Darrell’s talk came to mind yesterday when sales rep and true wine connoisseur Tom Hunter of Revel Wines opened a bottle of Aglianico by the Giornata winery in Paso Robles. In my view, the legacy of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in California is the result of an epochal misunderstanding — a ripple of an “anxiety of influence,” to IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
L’SHANAH TOVAH: MAY YOU BE INSCRIBED AND SEALED IN THE On Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year, we eat apples and honey as a symbol of the sweet year ahead we hope G-d will grant us. .לשנה טובה תכתבי ותחתמי L'shanah tovah tikatevi v'taihatemi. .לשנה טובה תכתב ותחתם L'shanah tovah tikatev v'taihatem. May you and yours be inscribed and sealed [in DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Above: over the last decade, organically branded food shops, like this ice cream shop and café, have flourished across Italy. In late May, the Italian senate approved a sweeping bill that would create a new “Italian organic” brand, officially recognized “organic districts,” and sweeping subsidies for research, development, and monitoring of organic farming practices.ABOUT | DO BIANCHI
In 2007, food and wine historian, Italian translator, and rock musician Jeremy Parzen Ph.D. created his blog “Do Bianchi” to offer readers a humanist perspective into the world of Italian wine and food. Although much has been written about Italian gastronomy in this country over the last two decades, the great misunderstandingknown as the
MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on THE BEST ITALIAN PARTY LAST NIGHT AT EATALY DALLAS. Above: My seminar yesterday on Pecorino Toscano at Eataly, Dallas. That's the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce director, Alessia Paolicchi, left, addressing our group at the market and restaurant's first in-person "Scuola" event since early 2020. Nearly all shared my sentiment that we were attending a truly extraordinary event yesterday evening at Eataly in Dallas. DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. A photo from the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce Taste of Italy Houston trade show in 2018 (image via the IACC Facebook.. When the Miami-based event planning company I.E.E.M. first began discussing today’s Maremma Consortium trade tasting in Houston with the Italy-America of Chamber of Commerce, one thing was clear to ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
CARBONARA, A NEW THEORY FOR ITS ORIGINS AND NAME Carbonara, a new theory of its origin. In the course of my research to date, the earliest description of carbonara that I have identified is found in Eating in Italy; a pocket guide to Italian food and restaurants by Richard Hammond, published by Scribner in 1957. In it, he includes carbonara in his shortlist of pan-Italian dishes and omitsit
CAN A SCREW-CAP WINE BE “CORKED”? CORKINESS ISN’T JUST And different types of taint — even TCA — can come into contact with the wine without affecting the cork itself. That’s why a cork-sealed bottle can be corked even when the cork doesn’t smell tainted. Screw-caps have undeniably helped to deliver more robust fitness in wine today. But as I see it, opening a bottle of wine isalways a gamble.
DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTIAGLIANICO GRAPE RED STILL WINEAGLIANICO GRAPE VARIETYAGLIANICO PRIMITIVOAGLIANICO PRONUNCIATIONAGLIANICO WINE PAIRING Darrell’s talk came to mind yesterday when sales rep and true wine connoisseur Tom Hunter of Revel Wines opened a bottle of Aglianico by the Giornata winery in Paso Robles. In my view, the legacy of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in California is the result of an epochal misunderstanding — a ripple of an “anxiety of influence,” to IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
L’SHANAH TOVAH: MAY YOU BE INSCRIBED AND SEALED IN THE On Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year, we eat apples and honey as a symbol of the sweet year ahead we hope G-d will grant us. .לשנה טובה תכתבי ותחתמי L'shanah tovah tikatevi v'taihatemi. .לשנה טובה תכתב ותחתם L'shanah tovah tikatev v'taihatem. May you and yours be inscribed and sealed [in DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTIAGLIANICO GRAPE RED STILL WINEAGLIANICO GRAPE VARIETYAGLIANICO PRIMITIVOAGLIANICO PRONUNCIATIONAGLIANICO WINE PAIRING Darrell’s talk came to mind yesterday when sales rep and true wine connoisseur Tom Hunter of Revel Wines opened a bottle of Aglianico by the Giornata winery in Paso Robles. In my view, the legacy of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in California is the result of an epochal misunderstanding — a ripple of an “anxiety of influence,” to IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
L’SHANAH TOVAH: MAY YOU BE INSCRIBED AND SEALED IN THE On Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year, we eat apples and honey as a symbol of the sweet year ahead we hope G-d will grant us. .לשנה טובה תכתבי ותחתמי L'shanah tovah tikatevi v'taihatemi. .לשנה טובה תכתב ותחתם L'shanah tovah tikatev v'taihatem. May you and yours be inscribed and sealed [in DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Above: over the last decade, organically branded food shops, like this ice cream shop and café, have flourished across Italy. In late May, the Italian senate approved a sweeping bill that would create a new “Italian organic” brand, officially recognized “organic districts,” and sweeping subsidies for research, development, and monitoring of organic farming practices.ABOUT | DO BIANCHI
In 2007, food and wine historian, Italian translator, and rock musician Jeremy Parzen Ph.D. created his blog “Do Bianchi” to offer readers a humanist perspective into the world of Italian wine and food. Although much has been written about Italian gastronomy in this country over the last two decades, the great misunderstandingknown as the
MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on THE BEST ITALIAN PARTY LAST NIGHT AT EATALY DALLAS. Above: My seminar yesterday on Pecorino Toscano at Eataly, Dallas. That's the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce director, Alessia Paolicchi, left, addressing our group at the market and restaurant's first in-person "Scuola" event since early 2020. Nearly all shared my sentiment that we were attending a truly extraordinary event yesterday evening at Eataly in Dallas. DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. A photo from the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce Taste of Italy Houston trade show in 2018 (image via the IACC Facebook.. When the Miami-based event planning company I.E.E.M. first began discussing today’s Maremma Consortium trade tasting in Houston with the Italy-America of Chamber of Commerce, one thing was clear to ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
CARBONARA, A NEW THEORY FOR ITS ORIGINS AND NAME Carbonara, a new theory of its origin. In the course of my research to date, the earliest description of carbonara that I have identified is found in Eating in Italy; a pocket guide to Italian food and restaurants by Richard Hammond, published by Scribner in 1957. In it, he includes carbonara in his shortlist of pan-Italian dishes and omitsit
CAN A SCREW-CAP WINE BE “CORKED”? CORKINESS ISN’T JUST And different types of taint — even TCA — can come into contact with the wine without affecting the cork itself. That’s why a cork-sealed bottle can be corked even when the cork doesn’t smell tainted. Screw-caps have undeniably helped to deliver more robust fitness in wine today. But as I see it, opening a bottle of wine isalways a gamble.
DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTIAGLIANICO GRAPE RED STILL WINEAGLIANICO GRAPE VARIETYAGLIANICO PRIMITIVOAGLIANICO PRONUNCIATIONAGLIANICO WINE PAIRING Darrell’s talk came to mind yesterday when sales rep and true wine connoisseur Tom Hunter of Revel Wines opened a bottle of Aglianico by the Giornata winery in Paso Robles. In my view, the legacy of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in California is the result of an epochal misunderstanding — a ripple of an “anxiety of influence,” to IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
L’SHANAH TOVAH: MAY YOU BE INSCRIBED AND SEALED IN THE On Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year, we eat apples and honey as a symbol of the sweet year ahead we hope G-d will grant us. .לשנה טובה תכתבי ותחתמי L'shanah tovah tikatevi v'taihatemi. .לשנה טובה תכתב ותחתם L'shanah tovah tikatev v'taihatem. May you and yours be inscribed and sealed [in DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Do Bianchi | Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. Local Source, a new Texas wine distributor, tries to bring back “relationship selling.”. They’re counting people, not just beans. And they’re hiring. Posted on May 27, 2021. by Do Bianchi. As the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more excitingfor the
WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR SERVING LAMBRUSCO? The quest for the perfect glass for the perfect wine is one that has long vexed wine lovers and professionals. While there are some genuine technical aspects to consider when pairing stemware and wines, the fetishization of matching glass and fermented grape must is driven primarily by glaziers. They need, after all, to sell you IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian LET’S BE HONEST ABOUT THE 2017 VINTAGE IN NORTHERN ITALY Above: Barolo Castle, photo taken January 17, 2020, on my last trip to Italy before the pandemic shut down global travel. In an era when truth and fact seem to have become relative terms, it was remarkable to read the breathtakingly candid assessment of the 2017 vintage in Barolo circulated last week by legacy grower ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage “FROST EVEN IN SARDINIA.” REPORTS OF WIDESPREAD DAMAGE AS Above and below: frost-damaged vines in Piedmont, Italy. Photos via Vinarius, the Italian Association of Wine Retailers. “Even in Sardinia — just think of that! — even in Sardinia they had frost damage,” wrote president of the Italian Association of Wine Retailers Andrea Terraneo in a WhatsApp message yesterday. As Italian wine grape growers assess SLARINA, THE NEXT PIEDMONT GRAPE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF, IS Slarina, the next Piedmont grape you’ve never heard of, is coming to a town near you. No one knows for certain where the name Slarina comes from but Torino university researchers believe it might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna and related Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin AGLIANICO FROM CALIFORNIA? I LOVED IT (AND DARRELL CORTIAGLIANICO GRAPE RED STILL WINEAGLIANICO GRAPE VARIETYAGLIANICO PRIMITIVOAGLIANICO PRONUNCIATIONAGLIANICO WINE PAIRING Darrell’s talk came to mind yesterday when sales rep and true wine connoisseur Tom Hunter of Revel Wines opened a bottle of Aglianico by the Giornata winery in Paso Robles. In my view, the legacy of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in California is the result of an epochal misunderstanding — a ripple of an “anxiety of influence,” to IMPOSSIBLE WINE PAIRING? CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS This and below photos by Tracie B. By its very nature, broth is an inevitably impossible wine pairing: the temperature alone makes pairing like grabbing the moon with your teeth as the French say. Heeding the adage by restaurateur giant Danny Meyer, if it grows with it, it goes with it, I should have paired Tracie B’s delectabledumplings
L’SHANAH TOVAH: MAY YOU BE INSCRIBED AND SEALED IN THE On Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year, we eat apples and honey as a symbol of the sweet year ahead we hope G-d will grant us. .לשנה טובה תכתבי ותחתמי L'shanah tovah tikatevi v'taihatemi. .לשנה טובה תכתב ותחתם L'shanah tovah tikatev v'taihatem. May you and yours be inscribed and sealed [in DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Above: over the last decade, organically branded food shops, like this ice cream shop and café, have flourished across Italy. In late May, the Italian senate approved a sweeping bill that would create a new “Italian organic” brand, officially recognized “organic districts,” and sweeping subsidies for research, development, and monitoring of organic farming practices.ABOUT | DO BIANCHI
In 2007, food and wine historian, Italian translator, and rock musician Jeremy Parzen Ph.D. created his blog “Do Bianchi” to offer readers a humanist perspective into the world of Italian wine and food. Although much has been written about Italian gastronomy in this country over the last two decades, the great misunderstandingknown as the
MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA One of the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on THE BEST ITALIAN PARTY LAST NIGHT AT EATALY DALLAS. Above: My seminar yesterday on Pecorino Toscano at Eataly, Dallas. That's the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce director, Alessia Paolicchi, left, addressing our group at the market and restaurant's first in-person "Scuola" event since early 2020. Nearly all shared my sentiment that we were attending a truly extraordinary event yesterday evening at Eataly in Dallas. DO BIANCHI | NEGOTIATING THE EPISTEMOLOGIC IMPLICATIONS OF Negotiating the Epistemologic Implications of Oenophilia. A photo from the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce Taste of Italy Houston trade show in 2018 (image via the IACC Facebook.. When the Miami-based event planning company I.E.E.M. first began discussing today’s Maremma Consortium trade tasting in Houston with the Italy-America of Chamber of Commerce, one thing was clear to ITALIAN-ENGLISH WINE GLOSSARY Updated March 21, 2019. ITALIAN ENGLISH a giropoggio vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with a ritocchino) a ritocchino vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with a giropoggio) acciaio stainless-steel acinellatura millerandage IT’S TIME TO CHANGE A RACIALLY INSENSITIVE ITALIAN GRAPE Pinot Noir, Nero d’Avola, and Nerello are examples of this. The Latin name in this case, according to the theory, is followed by a corruption of the Greek. Others take the meaning of the ampelonym at face value. They believe the name means bitter black, from the Italian negro (an archaic form of the modern-day Italian nero) and the Italian ITALY HAS ITS FIRST MASTER OF WINE: GABRIELE GORELLI FROM Above: Gabriele Gorelli tasting in Chablis (image via his Facebook). Last week, the Institute of the Masters of Wine announced the names of its 10 newest members, including Gabriele Gorelli (above), the first Italian Master of Wine. The qualification was conferred after Gabriele presented his thesis on "Quercetin precipitation in Brunello diMontalcino.
CARBONARA, A NEW THEORY FOR ITS ORIGINS AND NAME Carbonara, a new theory of its origin. In the course of my research to date, the earliest description of carbonara that I have identified is found in Eating in Italy; a pocket guide to Italian food and restaurants by Richard Hammond, published by Scribner in 1957. In it, he includes carbonara in his shortlist of pan-Italian dishes and omitsit
CAN A SCREW-CAP WINE BE “CORKED”? CORKINESS ISN’T JUST And different types of taint — even TCA — can come into contact with the wine without affecting the cork itself. That’s why a cork-sealed bottle can be corked even when the cork doesn’t smell tainted. Screw-caps have undeniably helped to deliver more robust fitness in wine today. But as I see it, opening a bottle of wine isalways a gamble.
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THE BEST ITALIAN PARTY LAST NIGHT AT EATALY DALLAS. Posted on June 4, 2021by Do Bianchi
_Above:
My seminar yesterday on Pecorino Toscano at Eataly, Dallas. That’s the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce director, Alessia Paolicchi, left, addressing our group at the market and restaurant’s first in-person “Scuola” event since early 2020._ Nearly all shared my sentiment that we were attending a truly extraordinary event yesterday evening at Eataly in Dallas. After a small group of food writers and enthusiasts joined a Prosciutto di Parma and Pecorino Toscano seminar in the venue’s first in-person “Scuola” (cooking school) event since the lockdowns began early last year, we all headed up stairs to Terra restaurant where we were joined by roughly 100 of the city’s leading Italian and Italophile citizens. It was a genuine who’s-who of the culinary community there, including Italian chefs, entrepreneurs, locally based writers and influencers, and food and wine trademembers.
Chefs Alfio Longo and Andrea Rodella, both Dallas-based Italians, were joined by Terra’s executive chef Michael Lawson for what was surely the most sumptuous meal any of us had enjoyed in public for more than a year. They did a truly bang up job. I have to give the warmest shout-out to the staff at Eataly Dallas for their professionalism, verve, and dedication in presenting a fantastic dinner for such a large group. I certainly wasn’t the only one who noted how remarkable it was to be at such a great event — with such a wonderful crowd — after such a long time. And _dulcis in fundo_, as I was window shopping on the floor of the retail space, I ran into one of my ex-students from the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences grad program (I hope to be heading back there soon, btw). It was such a treat for me to catch up with him and learn that he’s thriving in the world of Italian food and wine. I couldn’t have been more thrilled to be part of Eataly’s first in-person gatherings. And I couldn’t be more proud to have presented the seminar and dinner alongside some of our state’s top Italian food and wine-focused professionals. Great job, guys, all around!SHARE THIS:
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ITALIAN PARLIAMENT POISED TO APPROVE BILL THAT WOULD CREATE AN “ITALIAN ORGANIC” BRAND AND “ORGANIC DISTRICTS.” Posted on June 3, 2021by Do Bianchi
_Above:
over the last decade, organically branded food shops, like this ice cream shop and café, have flourished across Italy._ In late May, the Italian senate approved a sweeping bill that would create a new “Italian organic” brand, officially recognized “organic districts,” and sweeping subsidies for research, development, and monitoring of organic farming practices. The bill would also integrate the organic farming supply chain through government oversight. The legislation, which is widely expected to be approved by the Italian chamber of deputies, was adopted with one vote in oppositionand one abstention.
One point of contention was a brief and arguably vague line in the proposed legislation that would elevate the status of biodynamic agriculture, “putting it on a par with” organic agriculture. Biodynamic farming’s embrace of spirituality and mysticism, say critics, including Italian senator for life Elena Cattaneo, who delivered an impassioned speech on the senate floor before the vote , make it a discipline not based on science. Cattaneo, the only senator to vote against the legislation, lobbied unsuccessfully to amend the line about biodynamic agriculture. Her failed efforts were called a “resounding defeat” by the mainstream Italian media. In her address to her colleagues, Cattaneo, known for her groundbreaking work in stem cell research, called organic farming a “niche sector,” noting that it represents a small fraction of Italy’s farmland. She also pointed out that it would provide subsidies to fallow pastures where no food is produced. The bill, she said, “offers no guarantee of greater health benefits or greater nutritional value” for Italian citizens. In 2019, when the bill was first debated in the Italian parliament, Cattaneo called organic farming “a beautiful but impossiblefairytale.”
She
and nearly 400 other Italian scientists signed an open letter to the Italian parliament in which they opposed the then nascent legislation. “In order to justify pricing often double ,” she said at the time, we have been told that organic farming is the only way to save the world and help us to live longer and better. It’s an illusion. There is no scientific proof to confirm this. In fact, the opposite is true: analysis reveals that organic products are not qualitatively better and that large-scale organic farming is unsustainable inasmuch as it produces up to 50 percent less when it comes to top agricultural products. Large-scale organic farming would require twice as much land. In order to convert the world to organic farming, we would have to use hundreds of millions of hectares of currently fallow land, including forests and prairies. Supporters of the bill see it as part of a wider EU initiative, known as “Farm to Fork,”to
safeguard natural resources, to protect the environment, and to create a more robust organic farming supply chain across member states. “We are extremely pleased that the senate has approved the bill,” said Maria Grazia Mammuccini,
president of FedBio , a trade association that has lobbied aggressively for the creation of the “Italian organic” brand. “We have been waiting for this for more than 15 years. This much awaited legislation is finally moving forward.”SHARE THIS:
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MY NEW WINE DIRECTOR GIG IN HOUSTON! TASTE WITH ME AT ROMA, WEDS. JUNE2 (FREE TASTING).
Posted on June 1, 2021by Do
Bianchi
One of
the most remarkable experiences of my career in wine took shape during the 2020 lockdowns. For more than 52 weeks, with just a few breaks, I led virtual wine dinners every Thursday night for Roma restaurant in Houston. Those events were what kept the restaurant financially afloat — and what kept food on all of our tables — during the seemingly unending challenges of the pandemic. But something else happened as well, something truly magical. Through these digital gatherings on Zoom, we created a community of Italian food and wine lovers who found comfort in our shared culinary passion as the world outside seemed to be falling apart — literally. By the summer of 2020, we regularly had 80-90 guests attending virtually each week. The friendship and culinary camaraderie we shared was something that I’ll never ever forget. It showed, once again, how food and wine can transcend their roles as nutritional and aesthetic pleasures. When the lockdowns began in March 2020, I had worked as a media manager for Roma for more than two years, running the restaurant’s website and social media. But the restaurant’s founder, my good friend and Houston restaurant veteran Shanon Scott, had never even considered me working on the wine list with him. His thought was, _if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it_. But then, after he had watched me lead more than 50 or so of these events, which also included an Italian winemaker joining us from Italy at 2:30 in the morning, I approached Shanon about me helping out with the program. By May of this year, we had agreed that I would become the restaurant’s wine director as of June 1. On Tuesday of last week, we debuted our new list and program. And by Saturday night, there was a bottle of wine on every table — something that had never happened before at Roma. Our goal is to make the restaurant the leading Texas destination for Italian wine by2021’s end.
Tomorrow night, I’ll be hosting a free (yes, free!) Amarone tasting at the restaurant at 6 p.m. (Wednesday, June 20) . And then I’ll be pouring and chatting tableside with guests throughout the night. Please join me! Just shoot me an email at jeremy romahouston.com if you’d like to attend the event. Thank you for your support. I hope to see you tomorrow or at one of the many wine tastings and dinners — in-person and virtual — that we have planned for coming months.SHARE THIS:
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LOCAL SOURCE, A NEW TEXAS WINE DISTRIBUTOR, TRIES TO BRING BACK “RELATIONSHIP SELLING.” THEY’RE COUNTING PEOPLE, NOT JUST BEANS. AND THEY’RE HIRING. Posted on May 27, 2021by Do
Bianchi
As
the U.S. begins to open up again, times couldn’t be more exciting for the wine industry. People — trade members and consumers alike — are all eager to taste after more than a year of lockdown. I recently spoke to a veteran of the Texas wine business, David Verheyen (above), who’s just launched a new wine distribution company here in Houston, Local Source.
David has worked in the highest levels of the Texas wine establishment. But now he’s trying to shake things up with his new company where the focus is on “relationship selling.” As he notes in our excerpted conversation below, the big wine companies — fueled by even more consolidation during the pandemic — have given up on the “romance” of wine. He’s trying to bring it back. And he’s not just counting beans. He’s counting people, too. If you’re wondering why he’s standing in front of a couple of muscle cars in the image above, that’s because one his partners also stores his vintage car collection in their Houston warehouse. Here’s what he had to say when we spoke recently by phone. Local Source is currently hiring. See their websitefor contact info.
_Excerpts from a recent conversation with Local Source co-founder David Verheyen, a 30-year-plus veteran of the Texas wine trade:_ both come from background of working for really large corporations. So we wanted to focus on building something with a family feel and a local feel to it. We don’t want our customers to feel like they have a number crammed down their throat from someone in New York, Miami, Atlanta, or San Francisco. We’re not the ones saying, “hey, we need to make this number.” We wanted to be about the wine and the family behind the wine — the farmer. And that’s why we call it “Local Source.” Our people are from here. We’re not bringing in people from Las Vegas to come in and sell Champagne. We’re doing it ourselves. We are also in importer. And we’re taking that piece of the equation out of it for our customers. We’re looking for a more adventurous drinker when it comes to Champagne, Savoie, parts of the Rhône Valley, and parts of Southern Burgundy. We don’t want to be the “big company.” We don’t want to get in the away. We’re not built for that. We don’t want to play in that park. We are big believers in traditional European styles. And we’re also trying to build up our Italian portfolio. Unfortunately, the days of relationship selling are over. That’s because of the technology. The big companies feel like they can dictate what the customer will buy. I started selling wine in 1989 in Texas. I never lost some feeling of the romanticism in this business. And I don’t want my employees to lose sight of that.SHARE THIS:
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TASTE WITH ME VIRTUALLY THIS FRIDAY IN LONG BEACH, IN-PERSON NEXT WEDNESDAY IN HOUSTON (FREE). Posted on May 25, 2021by Do Bianchi
It’s
been nothing short of exhilarating to begin doing in-person tastingsagain.
I’m really excited to announce that I’LL BE DOING AN IN-PERSON TASTING AT ROMA RESTAURANT IN HOUSTON NEXT WEDNESDAY, JUNE 2 AT 6 P.M.CST.
As I’m getting out more and more, including a now sold-out Pecorino Toscano tasting I’m leading and a dinner I’m co-presenting at Eataly in Dallas next Thursday, June 3, virtual events are still happening: THIS FRIDAY, MAY 28 AT 5 P.M. PST, I’LL BE CO-PRESENTING A VIRTUAL LAMBRUSCO TASTING IN LONG BEACH WITH ALICIA LINI OF LINI 910 (MY FRIEND AND LONGTIME CLIENT) AND SAMANTHA DUGAN, one of the top sparkling wine experts working in the U.S. today. If you’d like to join either event, please just shoot an email by clicking here (unfortunately, the Eataly events are completely filledat this point).
And there are a ton in-person events on the horizon. Thank you for thesupport.
_Special thanks to the Passionate Foodie for the image from a few years ago in Boston._SHARE THIS:
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY PAOLO. I LOVE YOU, I MISS YOU. Posted on May 24, 2021by Do Bianchi
My bromance Paolo Cantele is celebrating a special birthday today. In any other year, he and I would be together on this day, as we have been on many of his birthdays over the years. That’s a video I made for a song I wrote about him a few years ago, above. He’s a rocker and so it had to be heavy.Paolo
has been my friend and client for more than 10 years now. Together, we have achieved some of the highest highs in our line of work. We’ve also shared some of the best meals and wines of my life together, in part thanks to his wonderful generosity.But
the thing I cherish the most — and I believe he does, too — is our long road trips across the U.S.: the conversations, the music, the on-the-road camaraderie. That’s Paolo during our very last road trip (alone or together) in February of 2020 in Boulder, Colorado. On that trip, we left from Houston, where we had done an event the night before. We then did an event in Dallas. Got trolled by a Trumper during lunch on our way to do an event in Tulsa. Did an amazing dinner at Tavernetta in Denver the next night. And ended up at Boulder Wine Merchant and then later that night at our favorite restaurant in theU.S., Frasca.
That’s
me and Paolo from a couple of years ago when we did an epic wine dinner in Houston for more than 100 people. That was an incrediblenight.
Paolo
is the king of Instagram and Instagram filters. I love this photo of him. Check it out in the video above, too.One
of our greatest moments of working together was this story by Ray Isle in _Food & Wine_ where Ray recounts his visit to Salento and a cooking class at the Cantele winery. What a great memory!That’s
Paolo with his brother Gianni. Paolo’s the “rock ‘n’ roll kid” in the family, Gianni is Salento’s Captain America. They’re both wonderful, lovely men with whom I’ve spent many unforgettable evenings tasting and talking and trading notes on what’s important in life. Both of them put so much soul into their family’s wines.That’s
Paolo holding a baby Georgia in his arms! Before Lila Jane was born, we took her on a tour of Italy, including a fantastic stay in Lecce, one of our favorite cities in Italy, where Paolo lives. It was Georgia’s first time in Europe.Is
there any question that Paolo should be played by Gary Oldman in the movie, “The Cantele Story”? I took that Photo back in Austin in a distant 2008 when I had just moved to Texas and Paolo and I first met on a “work with,” as we call them in the trade.That’s
Paolo and Tracie on this day 10 years ago when he celebrated is birthday with us at our home in Austin.It
must have been around that same time that I first took Paolo to experience Chicken Shit Bingo at Ginny’s Little Long Horn Saloon in Austin where we lived when I first got to the state. Paolo, my Italian brother by another mother! I love you and I miss you. Happy birthday man. I miss our road trips, our conversations about books, movies, music, philosophy, politics… I miss you man. I wish I were there celebrating with you. We’ll make up for lost time once I can get back to you and you to us. Rock on, brother. Our world is a better place because you’re in it.Un abbraccio forte.
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IT’S TIME TO COUNTER FINE WINE’S HISTORIC HOSTILITY TO BLACKPEOPLE.
Posted on May 21, 2021by Do
Bianchi
_Above:
American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z bought a Champagne house and launched his own wine after racist comments by a Champagne executive (photo via NRK-P3’s FlickrCreative Commons)._
The American artist and entrepreneur Jay-Z made headlines in 2014 when he purchased a historic Champagne house and announced his plan to launch his own line of _méthode Champenoise_ wine. The move was prompted by overtly racist comments made by an executive for the singer’s favorite Champagne brand. When asked what he thought about American rappers singing about the wine and using it as a prop in their music videos, said executive replied: “That’s a good question, but what can we do? We can’t forbid people from buying it. I’m sure Dom Pérignon or Krug would be delighted to have their business.” The rapper would later sing: _I used to drink , them motherfuckers racist So I switched gold bottles on to that Spade shit_ Jay-Z’s new label is known as “Ace of Spades.” A year prior, a noted Italian winemaker had published a racist rant aimed at Italy’s newly seated minister for integration, the country’s first Black cabinet member. When confronted by previous fans of his wine online, said producer doubled down and publicly professed his acute animus toward Black people in general. Some years earlier, in the pre-social media age, an Italian winery known for its white wines published a much circulated flier with an image of a young Black woman on it. Her chest was uncovered and she had a glass of white wine in her hand. The caption read: “I likewhites, too!”
Those are just the public instances of overt racism that come to mind. But they are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg. Just ask any Black wine professional, whether writer or tradesperson, what it’s like to be the only Black person in the room at a given tasting. The anecdotes of ignoble treatment will be myriad. As the world of wine tries to move past its historic hostility toward Black people, a new movement for inclusion, equity, and dignity-based treatment has taken shape among White wine trade members. That’s a good thing, no doubt. But in the light of the industry’s newly found self-awareness, the reaction to a recent post of mine was all the more surprising. After I suggested that we change the name of an Italian grape variety to make it inoffensive to Black people in this country, I
was accused of wokeness. Is that really such a crime? Especially given the industry’s historic antagonism of Black people, is it so wrong to make a similar proposal? Evidently a number of people feel thatway.
What I’m proposing — an evolution of the grape name, not a so-called cancellation — has nothing to do with wokeness or cancelculture.
It’s inspired by common decency and sense. To all of my detractors, I propose this. _You stand before a group of roughly 100 wine lovers in a restaurant on a Thursday night in Houston where nearly half the crowd is Black_. Let’s even throw in a small sound system into the equation so that your voice is crystal clear. And with bottle in hand, _you_ try presenting a grape calledNegroamaro.
I’m not asking Italians to change their grape name. I’m asking them and their American partners to adapt it for Black market here inthe U.S.
I’m not asking the world to cancel every name that has the word Negro in it. I’m asking the _wine_ world to acknowledge that Black people like Italian wine, too. I’m not asking my fellow wine professionals to diminish Italian viticulture or culture at large. I’m asking them to pay attention to the sensibilities of Black wine lovers in this country. A group that has been historically overlooked, ignored, and maltreated by the wine industry. If you claim that you haven’t seen ample evidence of that legacy in the #BLM era, you are disingenuous. With all the EU funds that will become available next year for Italian winemakers to promote their products in America, where they sell 70 percent — yes 70 percent — of their output by most industry estimates, will it be so painful for them to create a new label forour market?
I can assure you it will be plenty painful for many Black wine loversif they don’t.
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A BETTER TRANSLATION FOR “SPERONE CORDONATO.” FILM YEAST, FALSE FRIENDS, BAD TRANSLATIONS. ITALIAN WINE GLOSSARY UPDATED. Posted on May 19, 2021by Do Bianchi
_Sit tibi terra levis Iacobe. See this round-up of tributes to beloved winemaker and grape grower Jim Clendenen.
News of his passing stunned a saddened and diminished wine world on Monday. I only had the opportunity to interact with him a few times but Tracie and I have always enjoyed the wines immensely. When we lived in Austin, he and I shared the same hair dresser. No joke! He had better hair than me. And he was always so warm and nice when we met him. One of the greatest wine people of our generation. Lovely man and legacy wines that shaped a legion of young wine professionals inthis country._
The
work of a lexicographer is as thankless as it is exhausting. Yet we glossographers soldier on. This morning, I updated and added a couple of terms to the Italian wine terms glossary (below). One new entry is for _FIORETTA_ or _FILM YEAST/SURFACE YEAST/MYCODERMA_. Thanks to Italian wine professional Barbara Santilli for suggesting that one. The entries for _CRIOMACERAZIONE_ or _COLD SOAK_ and _FILTRO A CARTONE_ or _PLATE FILTER_ were inspired by the challenges these terms have posed for Italian interlocutors on our weekly virtual wine dinner calls. If I had a nickel for every time I heard an Italian call their filter a “cardboard filter” (a false friend ), I’d buy all the Tavernello I could (see the new entry for _VINO DOZZINALE_ or _PLONK_ below). And lastly, I owe the newly updated rendering of _CORDONE SPERONATO_ or _PERMANENT CORDON_ to a blog post by Jamie Goode (whom I don’t know personally but whose writing I admire). No update of the glossary would be complete without thanking the “vineyard doctor” Maurizio Gily , one of Italy’s most prolific flying vineyard managers and prodigious publisher of viticultural miscellanea. Maurizio has been instrumental in dotting some of these i’s and crossing some of these t’s. Buona lettura. Enjoy.ITALIAN
ENGLISH
a giropoggio
vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with _a ritocchino_)a ritocchino
vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley; compare with _a giropoggio_) acciaio (inossidabile) stainless-steel (vat/tank)acinellatura
millerandage (shot berries, hens and chicks, or pumpkins and peas)affinamento
aging
alberello
head-trained bush vinesallegagione
fruit set
allevamento
training
apice vegetativo
shoot tip
argilla
clay
arresto di fermentazionestuck fermentation
assemblaggio
blend
azoto
nitrogen
barbatella
rooted cutting/bench graftbarrique
barrique (small French oak cask)bâtonnage
stirring on the leesbiodinamica
biodynamics/biodynamicbiologico
organic
botte
traditional large caskbucce
skins
Cabernet (Sauvignon)Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc
calcare/calcareo
limestone/calcareous (limestone-rich)capo a frutto
fruit cane
cappello sommerso
submerged cap macerationchioma
canopy
chiusura grappolo
bunch closure
cimatura
hedging
cocciniglia
mealybug
cordone
cordon
cordone speronato
permanent cordon (cordon-trained spur-pruned vines)criomacerazione
cold soak
cru
vineyard designation/single vineyardcuvée
blend
délestage
rack and return
diradamento dei grappoli pruning/thinning grapes/dropping fruit/green harvest diradamento di germoglishoot thinning
diraspare/diraspatricede-stem/de-stemmer
diserbante termico
weed torch/weed flamerDOC
DOC (designation of controlled origin)DOCG
DOCG (designation of controlled and guaranteed origin)DOP
PDO (protected designation of origin)doppio capovolto
double-arched cane (training)drenaggio
drainage
esca
esca (black dead arm or black measles)escursione termica
diurnal shift (temperature variation)femminella
lateral shoot
fermentazione arrestatastuck fermentation
filare
row
filtro a cartone
plate filter (pad filter)fioretta
film yeast/surface yeast/mycodermaflavescenza dorata
grapevine yellows (flavescence dorée)follatura
punching down
forma di allevamento training system/trellis systemgalestro
galestro (a marl- and limestone-rich subsoil unique to Tuscany)gemma
bud
gemma dormiente, gemma d’invernodormant bud
germogliamento
budbreak/budburst
giropoggio
vines planted across a slope (along the contour of the slope; compare with _a ritocchino_)grappa
grappa
grappolo
cluster/bunch
grappolo spargolo
loosely clustered grape bunchGuyot
Guyot
IGP
PGI (protected geographical indication)IGT
IGT (typical geographical indication)inerbimento
sward management of the soilinnesto
graft
interfila
inter-row
invaiatura
veraison
lievito naturale
native/ambient/indigenous/wild yeastlievito selezionato
cultured yeast
limo
silt
macchia mediterranea Mediterranean maquis (shrubland) maestrale (vento di maestrale)north-westerly wind
malolattica
malolactic fermentationmarna/marne
marl
marza
scion
maturazione
ripening
monovitigno
single-grape variety (wine)mosto
must
oidio
oidium (powdery mildew)pedicello
pedicel
peduncolo
stem (peduncle)
pergola
pergola/overhead trellis systemperonospora
peronospora (downy mildew)pied de cuve
pied de cuve (native yeast starter)pigiatura
crush/crushing
pirodiserbatore
weed torch/weed flamerpirodiserbo
weed torching
pollone
sucker
portinnesto
rootstock
pressa
press
pressare
to press
quercia
oak
rachide
rachis
raspo
stem
rimontaggio
pumping over
ritocchino
vines planted up and down a slope (from peak to valley, as it were; compare with _a giropoggio_)sabbia/sabbioso
sand/sandy (sandy soil)Sauvignon (Blanc)
Sauvignon Blanc
scacchiatura
shoot-thinning
scheletro
very fine gravel
seme
seed
sfogliatura
leaf plucking
sgemmatura
disbudding
siccit
drought/drought conditions sistema di allevamento training/trellis systemsottofila
under-row
sottosuolo
subsoil
sovescio
cover crop/green manuresovramaturazione
over-ripening
spalliera (vigneto a spalliera) vertical shoot positioning of the shoots (VSP) spargolo (grappolo spargolo) loosely clustered (grape bunch)sperone
spur
spollonatura
disbudding and suckering/de-suckeringstralciatura
shoot-thinning
stress idrico
hydric stress
sulle bucce
skin contact (macerated on the skins)sulle fecce nobili
lees aged (aged on its lees)sur lie
lees aged (aged on its lees)svinatura
racking (devatting, drawing off)terreno/terreni
soil
tessitura (del suoolo)soil texture
tignola della vite
vine moth (_Eupoecilia ambiguella_) European berry mothtralcio
shoot/cane
tramoggia
hopper/feeder
tufo
tufaceous subsoil (porous limestone)vasca
vat/tank
vento di maestrale
north-westerly wind
vigna/vigne
vine/vineyards
vigneto
vineyard
vinaccia/vinacce
pomace
vinacciolo
seed
vino dozzinale
plonk
vite
vine
viticcio
tendril
vitigno
grape variety
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WHY ISN’T OUR NATIONAL WINE MEDIA PAYING ATTENTION TO SAMANTHA DUGAN’S SPECTACULAR SPARKLING WINE SELECTION AT THE WINE COUNTRY,LONG BEACH?
Posted on May 10, 2021by
Do Bianchi
_Above:
the seemingly endless selection of sparkling wine at the Wine Country in Long Beach, California, where Samantha “Sans Dosage” Dugan has created one of the best programs in the country._ Why our nation’s mainline wine mastheads haven’t paid more attention to Samantha Dugan’s extraordinary sparkling wine selection at the Wine Country in Long Beach, CA has left me nonplussed. In case you’ve never visited her and her team, that’s just part of the seemingly endless offering of bubbles, above at her shop, a legacy wine merchant in a community where there is a deep appreciation for fine wine, from the everyday to the collectible. Some of you may remember her from the days of the wine blogging renaissance when she was one of the movement’s highest-profile and respected voices — under the handle “Samantha Sans Dosage.” _Times_ wine writer Eric Asimov was among her biggest fans and she would ultimately be summoned to the Napa Valley wine writers symposium (which is happening this week btw) as a featured speaker, an exemplar among wine blogging paladins. These days her aphoristic, observational, aesthetic, and philosophical ruminations circulate exclusively on the Facebook but they continue to wield powerfully compelling content, equally humoristic and poignant(and often both).
“We’re somewhere between Los Angeles and San Diego,” said her son Jeremy Dugan, who also works at the store as the outpost’s Natural wine slinger. “So no one pays attention to what my mom isdoing here.”
_Above:
the beer selection at the Wine Country is equally impressive. These people CARE about what they do. They want to send you home happy._ Besides being a wonderful and generous friend, Samantha is one of the best tasters in the U.S. right now imho. And her sparkling wine chops, honed over more than a decade at the bubbly wine helm, are the definition of _par excellence_ (look it up in your Webster’s). I am thrilled to share the news that Samantha, Alicia Lini, and I will be leading a virtual Lambrusco tasting on Friday, May 28, at 5 p.m. PST. You’ll have to visit the store that day to pick up the food and wine. But I’ll also be sharing the link with non-So. Cal. sparkling geeks like me who want to get in on this one. Just ping me here or wherever if you want me to hook you up with thebubbly good stuff.
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HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY TRACIE! YOU ARE AMAZING. I LOVE YOU. Posted on May 7, 2021by Do Bianchi
_At
the Grand Canyon in 2018._ After Tracie gave birth to our first daughter Georgia in 2011, we agreed that she wouldn’t go back to work. We felt strongly that it was important for the girls to have a stay-at-home parent. My business was growing and we were confident that we could maintain our style ofliving.
Over the next nine years, work had its ups and downs, as can be expected for a freelance copywriter and translator. But one way or another, we always managed to make it work. And about five years ago, when the girls started to attend a K-12 school, Tracie started a custom cookie business and later began selling skincare products. Her work really helped to make the proverbial ends meet. In 2019, my business had its best year ever. We were starting to reach some of our financial goals and as fried as I was from a frenetic work pace, we ended the year on a high note, with a little money in the bank and all the bills paid. Then the pandemic came. Although a handful of my longtime clients stood by me, most simply stopped answering the phone. It was understandable, of course. We were all completely freaking out and no one knew what was going to happen. By the end of the summer, all of our financial progress had been wiped out. Groceries were going on credit cards and I was scrambling to get any work I could._Tracie
and me in the green room at the Mercury Lounge on the Lower East Side where my band last headlined in February 2009. I cherish that picture. Who knew where our lives and marriage would lead? We had Bollinger in our cups and the room was packed that night._ It was then that Tracie quietly but steadily began studying for her realtor license. We paid the fee for the mandatory classes and I took up more of the parenting duties so that she had time to prepare forher exam.
The first week of March, Tracie took the exam and passed. And after countless interviews, she had a position with an old line realty firmhere in Houston.
And then something incredible happened. Even though it takes months for most new realtors to start getting listings and making sales, Tracie landed a seven-figure contract as a buyer’s agent by the fourth week in her new job. That was soon followed by her first “listing,” a milestone for anyone starting a new career in realty. Honestly, none of us — Tracie included — even dreamed that this would happen so fast. We were expecting six months or so to pass before she was fully up and running. But here we are. From zero to 60 in just a few short weeks, Tracie now makes herself up every morning and heads to the office. And the contracts just keep coming in. And I no longer lose sleep over next month’s rent or electric bill. Tracie P, you are an amazing woman, mother, wife, best friend, partner, and lover. You are a role model for our daughters and an inspiration to me in my own new career in sales. People thought I was crazy when I left California for Texas in 2008 (now look at how many Californians are moving to Houston!). None of us could have known the will power and the determination that you would bring to bear as our family’s ship needed to be righted. I love you and you are an extraordinary human being. And I am the soul who had the extraordinarily good fortune to meet you (through our blogs!), marry you, and be father to your children. Happy Mother’s Day, Tracie P. Yours is a story of strength, courage, and grit. And our family is only better for it. I love you, gorgeouswoman!
_Tracie Parzen realtor:_SHARE THIS:
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