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BASTE + GATHER
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DO WE REALLY NEED ANOTHER T-SHIRT PATTERN?December 13, 2016
Earlier this week, Jen of Grainline Studio released her latest pattern, the Lark Tee.
It's a basic tee with four different necklines (v-neck, scoop, crew and boat-neck) and four different sleeve variations (cap, short, 3/4 and long) for a total of 16 possible different looks. The second I saw it on my Instagram feed, I hopped right over to Jen's website and purchased it for $12. (Some people are surprised to know I purchase most of my sewing patterns - but it's true!) Later that night, I noticed that not everyone was as excited as I was about the newpattern.
"Boooooring!" "But we have so many tee patterns already." "Are these indie designers just out of things to design?" Many people felt the same way I did, of course, but overall reception was mixed. It got me thinking - can we really have too much of a certain kind of pattern? Too many indie designers? In the last week alone, I've gotten emails from two Pattern Workshop students lamenting the saturation of the indie pattern market and wondering if I was concerned at all that the competition was getting too stiff for them to survive as full-timedesigners.
In short, my answer is a resounding NO. I do not think we can have too many t-shirt patterns. I do not think we can have too many designers. (And no, that is not just because of my affiliation with PatternWorkshop .)
Let me explain.
FEATURES VS. BENEFITS First, consumer behavior 101 tells us that people buy benefits, not features. Features are things that can be listed in factual bullet points like the following:* Short-sleeved
* Pink
* Designed for knits * Designed for pear-shaped figures* High-cut neckline
Sure, we might look for patterns based on features, but features don't _sell_. BENEFITS are what sell. Like these: * Look more toned (because of the perfectly designed sleeve length) * Appear healthier and more vibrant (because of the flatteringcolor)
* Be comfortable (because of the stretchy fabric) * Appear more attractive (because the pattern is designed for yourbody type)
* Worry less about exposing yourself (because of the high-cutneckline)
Those are very basic examples, so let's go a little deeper. Why do you think some people pay $250+ for a pair of designer jeans? Is there really anything that makes them better than a pair of $50 jeans? Okay, maybe. Perhaps the denim is higher quality. Perhaps the topstitching is nicer, and the fit is better. Perhaps they were made in the USA instead of imported. But what about a pair of $250+ jeans is better than a pair of, say, a $130 pair of jeans? I'd venture to say_nothing_.
In this case, the price is part of the branding, and the branding for designs in this price range usually has to do with a very specific benefit. It goes something like this: Wear these jeans and look/feel like a wealthy celebrity/jet setter. It's not about the spandex content of the denim or the color-fastness of the dye. It's not about whether they are bootcut or straight or if the rise is high or low. This is why designer clothing/perfume/jewelry/cosmetics ads usually features high-fashion images of celebrities doing fabulous things. It's also why lower-end product advertising usually lists features. The manufacturer of $30 jeans is appealing to a totally different sense than the manufacturer of $250+ ones or even $100 ones. This same principle applies to sewing patterns. Some designers can charge upwards of $15 for patterns, and their loyal customers don't blink an eye. It's because their customers are purchasing for the perceived benefit of owning, sewing and wearing those patterns. Theoretically, PDF patterns in particular have no tangible value because they are not a tangible good. But in practice, they are worth whatever people are willing to pay for them. So if a designer is having success marketing a pattern for $16, that is its value. The customers are purchasing the experience, not a product. Which brings me to my next point... BUYING FOR THE EXPERIENCE Just as I've heard people complaining about the proliferation of PDF sewing patterns and the rising prices, I've heard complaints about sewing camps, retreats and workshops. One popular sewing blogger does a lingerie-sewing workshop that costs several hundreds of dollars (plus plane tickets and hotel if the attendee isn't local). I've seen tirades about how "ridiculous" her pricing is and, despite the fact that she probably has more expertise on the topic than 99.5% of us, how she has no right to call herself an expert. BUT YOU KNOW WHAT? HER CUSTOMERS DON'T CARE ABOUT THE PRICE OF HER WORKSHOP. THEY AREN'T BUYING HER EXPERTISE (HOWEVER MUCH SHE MIGHT HAVE). THEY ARE BUYING THE _EXPERIENCE_. Attending one of her workshops means learning in a beautiful space, sewing on high-end machines, experiencing rare and delicate fabrics, rubbing elbows with well-known sewing bloggers and enjoying beautifully catered meals. Attendees leave the workshop with not just a new garment - but lots of memories, gorgeous photographs, life-long friendships and even business connections. No lingerie-making book or online class could deliver that same experience. Similarly, women don't fork out hundreds of dollars to go to camp to learn how to sew. They go to camp to get away from the responsibility of raising a family or working at a demanding job. They go to hang out with other sewists who are as passionate about fabric as they are. They go to have FUN (and probably to drink wine). _It's all about experience. _ As far as patterns go, the experience includes everything from the presentation of the booklet/pattern (if it's a paper pattern) to the quality of drafting to the fit of the finished garment. But what you might not realize is that it also includes the camaraderie on social media and the thrill of being associated with a certain pattern brand. When a designer has a good understanding of communicating benefits and creating an experience for her customers, she has the foundation to become a wildly successful businessperson, too. And when a designer consistently delivers that experience, she develops a following of "fangirls."FANGIRL MENTALITY
Fangirls are people (women, in this case) who will purchase pretty much anything from the person/business of which they are a fan. They will tell all their friends about it, blog about it, post it on social media and pretty much declare it to be the best thing since bacon. I can fully admit that I am a fangirl of Grainline Studio patterns. I own almost all of Jen's patterns and can almost guarantee that I will purchase new releases as soon as they go public. There are several reasons for this. First, they are well-drafted, illustrated and explained. Second, they are practical designs that work with my lifestyle and taste. Third, they fit my body type. And finally - this is the most elusive and least-tangible one - they help me feel more stylish and like I am part of an elite group of sewistswho use them.
Furthermore, fangirls are forgiving. If their beloved company/brand/designer/etc. makes a mistake or releases a lackluster product, the fangirl will remain loyal (to an extent). If you are a designer, THESE ARE THE PEOPLE THAT YOU SHOULD TRY TO ATTRACT BY THE THOUSANDS. THEY HAVE THE ABILITY TO MAINTAIN YOUR BUSINESS AND TURN YOUR HOBBY INTO A CAREER. THEY ARE YOUR MOST LOYAL FOLLOWERS ANDCUSTOMERS.
Think about it. No woman takes a photo of a sloppily dressed, unhealthy, unattractive person to her hairstylist and asks for that cut and color. Instead, she asks her stylist to copy the style of the latest and greatest celebrity - oftentimes regardless of whether celebrity has a similar hair type, face shape or features to her own. This is because we buy into ideas and possibilities, not things. We purchase for the intangible aspects of products/services, and that's how fangirls are created. As one myself, I can attest that I buy based on how products will make me feel and how others perceive me for owning them. That might sound extremely shallow, but I think it's a common (albeit subconscious) behavior in all people (at leastin our culture).
IN CONCLUSION...
I own lots of t-shirt sewing patterns. I own lots of t-shirts, both handmade and ready-to-wear. (I will probably buy more of both because of fashion trends, body shape and lifestyle changes. I also just enjoy trying out new patterns just like I enjoy trying out new clothes at a store.) I'd venture to say there are thousands of t-shirts available to me as a consumer. There are $12 Old Navy ones, $40 J.Crew ones and $100 James Perse ones (and everything in-between and below and beyond). There are boxy fit ones, slim fit ones, v-neck ones and scoop neck ones. You can buy them cropped or buy them long. There are thousands of different t-shirts because there are millions of consumers all looking for different things. Our market can sustain lots and lots of t-shirt companies just as the sewing pattern market can sustain lots and lots of pattern designs and designers. Remember, too, that the the market for sewing patterns is not static; new people are entering it every day. So just because there's already a design for a t-shirt or a pair of jeans or what-have-you doesn't at all mean there's not room for more. It could just be that new sewists entering the market are looking for EXACTLY that "new" (but same) design. Or it could just be that they like the experience of one (new) brand over another. (Also, some people are just pattern hoarders. Ahem, like me.) :)In Miscellany
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MERCHANT & MILLS CAMBER DRESSMay 6, 2016
How do I love this dress? Let me count the ways. * It is an amazing linen-rayon blend from Bolt Fabric Boutiquehere in Portland.
* It fits great.
* I love the look.
* The pattern/construction were fabulous. So yes. It is the Merchant & Mills Camber Dress,and I am in LOVE!
I had read rave reviews of Merchant & Mills patterns before, but I don't know...something about the packaging and branding made me feel like the patterns were a bit frumpy and old-fashioned. But on a recent visit to Bolt , this Camber Set piqued my interest. I started to look at the dress as a silhouette instead of how it was presented on the envelope, and my visionunfolded.
I wanted something modern, comfortable, flattering and streamlined. I wanted it to be easy and quick to sew but not without enough detail tokeep my interest.
And that is exactly what I got. I used my measurements and made a size 10. From looking at other bloggers' photos online, I think some people must have gone down a size as mine is less fitted than others. I like this look though, so I'm glad I stuck with it. It's very comfortable and will also have ample room for my chest after my surgery next month. I also decided to shorten the dress by 15cm after trying it on. I like the longer look, but this shorter length was more what I had in mind for this fabric. I love the exposed bias facing on the front of the neckline, and the yoke (shown above) adds a nice, unique touch. The fit is superb, and I can't wait to make a tee version, too. And who knows...I might just have to invest in some more Merchant & Mills patterns - this one isjust that good!
Have you sewn Merchant & Mills ? What do you think?In My Handmades
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MODIFIED SIMPLICITY 1377 SHORTS FROM UPCYCLED LINENMay 5, 2016
Recently I was on a fact-finding mission at Nordstrom. That's what I call it when I'm actually shopping for shoes but telling my husband that I'm just looking for sewing inspiration. In reality, it's a bit of both. :P In this case, I spotted some great, casual shorts in the Madewell section that I knew I could easily copy(ish). The style is nothing new - short, athletic-style shorts with an elastic waist, curved hem and slash pockets. I considered a couple patterns that are very similar to this, but ultimately, I decided to go with Simplicity 1377which I had
previously muslined but never worked on beyond that initial fitting. I figured that all I'd have to do was straighten the pockets (the original line is curved) and add the curve to the hem. I made a size 12 which corresponded to my measurements. The back rise might be a bit short for anyone with a curvier bum - but I do not have much going on in that area, so it works perfectly for me. Here are the specific changes I made: * Straightened the slash pocket openings * Did a line of topstitching along the center-front seam for a littleextra detail
* Traced around a saucer to curve the side seam edges * Did a narrow hem around the bottom edges BEFORE sewing together at the side seams (and after sewing the crotch seam) * Completed a second row of topstitching around the curved bottom hem because I didn't catch all of it in my stitching the first go and was too lazy to rip/redo. * Bartacked where the side curves came together for extra strength. I had originally planned to bind the curved edges with bias binding, but I simply didn't have enough fabric to do so. The fabric is a lovely, rustic linen that I upcycled from a large women's skirt I purchased at Value Village for $6 I think. I LOVE shopping the women's dresses and skirts for great linens. I always seem to find the best colors, and I love that the fabric has a little bit of a worn-in look. Plus, it's cheap! This is a great option if you are a smaller size and are creative with your cutting. In this case, I had to cut perpendicular to the grain to get everything to fit. I am absolutely in love with these shorts and plan to use the exact same modifications for a few more. I might even add a drawstring to the casing or try the bias binding I previously mentioned. It might even be cool to make a longer, straight-hemmed pair like some James Perse ones I saw recently. The top is Simplicity 1071 which I previously blogged here.
I love that it can be dressed up or down for lots of different looks (and that it's super comfy!). Shoes are Caswell by Timberland (affiliate link) and are the most comfortable flat sandals I have ever owned! _WHAT DO YOU THINK? IS YOUR SHORTS-GAME READY FOR SUMMER? _In My Handmades
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My name is Lauren Dahl, and I take lots of awkward selfies around the Portland, Oregon metro area. Learn more about me here , or sew along using the social media links below. FOLLOW ALONG ON INSTAGRAM Powered by Squarespace0 items $0
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