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WES LOWREY
The Sauvignon Blanc was an interesting case study in this respect. In most years, higher sugar in the berries (21.7 degrees Brix at harvest) would mean lower acid levels, but that was not true in 2020. The TA at harvest on September 12th was a shade below 7 g/L, nearly ideal for the style we are after. WES LOWREY » 2021 » MAY Friday, May 7th, 2021. 2018 Pinot Noir. Picture a vineyard, older in its years, with crooked posts, differing row widths and bordered closely by dense headlands. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2020 WHITES 2020 Sauvignon Blanc. When we look back at the 2020 vintage many years from now, it will simply be known as “The Ripe One”. Each varietal on our farm exhibited unprecedented ripening parameters, but not in a way that made them one dimensional. WES LOWREY » 2020 » NOVEMBER Wednesday, November 25th, 2020. Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » A VINTAGE FOR THE AGES Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » BACK ON THE HORSE In a time of tremendous uncertainty and worry, I find myself taking solace in the simple things that I took for granted beforelike being able to write a journal entry while sipping a fantastic glass of wine that I didn’t make. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » MEMORIES As my two year old daughter continues to grow up faster than I can fathom, I find myself fixated on how much of her current life she will actually retain as memory. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2018 REDS Aromas : blueberry preserves, cassis, cherry, Kalamata olive. Palate : cherry candy, raspberry; ripe and smooth for a young Cab Sauv, it should age gracefully for the next 5 years. All three 2018 reds retail for $60/bottle and can be ordered at fiverows.com starting May 14th at 9am. This entry was posted on Friday, May 7th, 2021 at 11:28 am and WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2008 FIVE ROWS PINOT NOIR 2008 Five Rows Pinot Noir: Now that we’ve been at this venture for a few years, it’s interesting to look back at my old blog entries upon the release of a new wine. WES LOWREY » 2009 » SEPTEMBER Saturday, September 26th, 2009. Without fail, every vintage brings forth an unforeseen challenge. This year that head-scratcher is the acid levels in our grapes.WES LOWREY
The Sauvignon Blanc was an interesting case study in this respect. In most years, higher sugar in the berries (21.7 degrees Brix at harvest) would mean lower acid levels, but that was not true in 2020. The TA at harvest on September 12th was a shade below 7 g/L, nearly ideal for the style we are after. WES LOWREY » 2021 » MAY Friday, May 7th, 2021. 2018 Pinot Noir. Picture a vineyard, older in its years, with crooked posts, differing row widths and bordered closely by dense headlands. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2020 WHITES 2020 Sauvignon Blanc. When we look back at the 2020 vintage many years from now, it will simply be known as “The Ripe One”. Each varietal on our farm exhibited unprecedented ripening parameters, but not in a way that made them one dimensional. WES LOWREY » 2020 » NOVEMBER Wednesday, November 25th, 2020. Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » A VINTAGE FOR THE AGES Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » BACK ON THE HORSE In a time of tremendous uncertainty and worry, I find myself taking solace in the simple things that I took for granted beforelike being able to write a journal entry while sipping a fantastic glass of wine that I didn’t make. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » MEMORIES As my two year old daughter continues to grow up faster than I can fathom, I find myself fixated on how much of her current life she will actually retain as memory. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2018 REDS Aromas : blueberry preserves, cassis, cherry, Kalamata olive. Palate : cherry candy, raspberry; ripe and smooth for a young Cab Sauv, it should age gracefully for the next 5 years. All three 2018 reds retail for $60/bottle and can be ordered at fiverows.com starting May 14th at 9am. This entry was posted on Friday, May 7th, 2021 at 11:28 am and WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2008 FIVE ROWS PINOT NOIR 2008 Five Rows Pinot Noir: Now that we’ve been at this venture for a few years, it’s interesting to look back at my old blog entries upon the release of a new wine. WES LOWREY » 2009 » SEPTEMBER Saturday, September 26th, 2009. Without fail, every vintage brings forth an unforeseen challenge. This year that head-scratcher is the acid levels in our grapes. WES LOWREY » RIESLING Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » REVIEWS Saturday, March 5th, 2011. March 4th, 2011 is a day that will forever live in Five Rows lore. It is the day our roadside sign was stolen. We put it out in the morning and it was gone at the end of the day. WES LOWREY » 2020 » MAY Monday, May 4th, 2020. In a time of tremendous uncertainty and worry, I find myself taking solace in the simple things that I took for granted beforelike being able to write a journal entry while sipping a fantastic glass of wine that I didn’t make. WES LOWREY » 2019 » OCTOBER Tuesday, October 22nd, 2019. As my two year old daughter continues to grow up faster than I can fathom, I find myself fixated on how much of her current life she will actually retain as memory. WES LOWREY » UNCATEGORIZED Thursday, October 24th, 2013. I’d like to thank Rick VanSickle for including us in his latest article “The Fantastic Four: Exciting New Niagara Wineries That Are Setting The Bar For Excellence”. It’s especially satisfying when someone takes the time to thoughtfully share the way we’ve chosen to WES LOWREY » 2008 » AUGUST Monday, August 25th, 2008. The bottle you see above is one of a lot of two barrels of 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, 100% sourced from LowreyVineyards.
WES LOWREY » 2013 » JUNE Tuesday, June 4th, 2013. 2012 “Jean’s Block” Riesling. Vineyard: Our Clone 49 Riesling vines budded out very early in 2012, perhaps two weeks ahead of a normal year. Although this may sound advantageous, it was actually problematic. A sudden frost followed bud-break and many fragile buds were frozen dead. WES LOWREY » 2010 » NOVEMBER Sunday, November 7th, 2010. 2009 Five Rows Sauvignon Blanc: Roughly one tonne of fruit was harvested on a beautiful day in early Octoberof 2009.
WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2011 WHITES 2011 Five Rows Sauvignon Blanc: The fight for quality Sauvignon Blanc grapes begins in earnest during the long, cold nights of winter. Itsbuds are
WES LOWREY » 2009 » SEPTEMBER Saturday, September 26th, 2009. Without fail, every vintage brings forth an unforeseen challenge. This year that head-scratcher is the acid levels in our grapes.WES LOWREY
The Sauvignon Blanc was an interesting case study in this respect. In most years, higher sugar in the berries (21.7 degrees Brix at harvest) would mean lower acid levels, but that was not true in 2020. The TA at harvest on September 12th was a shade below 7 g/L, nearly ideal for the style we are after. WES LOWREY » RELEASES Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » 2021 » MAY Friday, May 7th, 2021. 2018 Pinot Noir. Picture a vineyard, older in its years, with crooked posts, differing row widths and bordered closely by dense headlands. WES LOWREY » RIESLING Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » 2020 » MAY Monday, May 4th, 2020. In a time of tremendous uncertainty and worry, I find myself taking solace in the simple things that I took for granted beforelike being able to write a journal entry while sipping a fantastic glass of wine that I didn’t make. WES LOWREY » PINOT GRIS Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » A VINTAGE FOR THE AGES Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » FIELD NOTES Wednesday, December 21st, 2016. It is difficult to sum up an entire growing season in a couple of words, but I’d bet if you asked a bunch of Ontario grape growers and winemakers to describe 2016, the bulk of them would quickly reply, “hot and dry!” WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2018 REDS Aromas : blueberry preserves, cassis, cherry, Kalamata olive. Palate : cherry candy, raspberry; ripe and smooth for a young Cab Sauv, it should age gracefully for the next 5 years. All three 2018 reds retail for $60/bottle and can be ordered at fiverows.com starting May 14th at 9am. This entry was posted on Friday, May 7th, 2021 at 11:28 am and WES LOWREY » WINEMAKER’S DINNER Saturday, January 23rd, 2016. Perhaps the number one thing I look forward to each winter season is the opportunity to participate in a few Winemaker Dinners with my family.WES LOWREY
The Sauvignon Blanc was an interesting case study in this respect. In most years, higher sugar in the berries (21.7 degrees Brix at harvest) would mean lower acid levels, but that was not true in 2020. The TA at harvest on September 12th was a shade below 7 g/L, nearly ideal for the style we are after. WES LOWREY » RELEASES Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » 2021 » MAY Friday, May 7th, 2021. 2018 Pinot Noir. Picture a vineyard, older in its years, with crooked posts, differing row widths and bordered closely by dense headlands. WES LOWREY » RIESLING Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » 2020 » MAY Monday, May 4th, 2020. In a time of tremendous uncertainty and worry, I find myself taking solace in the simple things that I took for granted beforelike being able to write a journal entry while sipping a fantastic glass of wine that I didn’t make. WES LOWREY » PINOT GRIS Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » A VINTAGE FOR THE AGES Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » FIELD NOTES Wednesday, December 21st, 2016. It is difficult to sum up an entire growing season in a couple of words, but I’d bet if you asked a bunch of Ontario grape growers and winemakers to describe 2016, the bulk of them would quickly reply, “hot and dry!” WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2018 REDS Aromas : blueberry preserves, cassis, cherry, Kalamata olive. Palate : cherry candy, raspberry; ripe and smooth for a young Cab Sauv, it should age gracefully for the next 5 years. All three 2018 reds retail for $60/bottle and can be ordered at fiverows.com starting May 14th at 9am. This entry was posted on Friday, May 7th, 2021 at 11:28 am and WES LOWREY » WINEMAKER’S DINNER Saturday, January 23rd, 2016. Perhaps the number one thing I look forward to each winter season is the opportunity to participate in a few Winemaker Dinners with my family. WES LOWREY » FAMILY STORIES Wednesday, November 25th, 2020. Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » BLOG ARCHIVE » 2020 RELEASE AND A NEW WEBSITE Welcome back! The new wines are finally in bottle and I couldn’t be more excited to share them with all those who’ve been patiently awaiting their release. WES LOWREY » PINOT NOIR Friday, August 7th, 2020. 2017 Syrah. Hand-harvesting for the 2017 Syrah took place on October 27th, with about 900 kg sourced from each of our Clones: 7 and 100. WES LOWREY » 2020 » NOVEMBER Wednesday, November 25th, 2020. Well, that was special. It was almost like mother nature knew she owed us one. I’ll preface by saying that all vintages are difficult undertakings that require a tremendous amount of patience and co-operation from all ends of the industry. WES LOWREY » REVIEWS Saturday, March 5th, 2011. March 4th, 2011 is a day that will forever live in Five Rows lore. It is the day our roadside sign was stolen. We put it out in the morning and it was gone at the end of the day. WES LOWREY » SHIRAZ Sunday, January 20th, 2013. We can now announce some details regarding a couple of exciting winter events we have in the works. Firstly, I am floored by the response to our Treadwell’s Winemaker Dinner on January 26. Based on the turnout to previous dinners, James and I had anticipated the usual 25-30 loyal Five Rows fans who had joined us inthe past.
WES LOWREY » 2011 » JANUARY Saturday, January 22nd, 2011. We often discuss a vineyard year in terms of the wonderful wines that result. I’ve certainly heard many superlatives thrown around in WES LOWREY » 2009 » MAY Thursday, May 14th, 2009. We are very humbled to have David Lawrason review our wines. He is a very prominent Canadian wine writer whoseopinions are
WES LOWREY » 2008 » DECEMBER Thursday, December 18th, 2008. The friendly little town of St. David’s was a great place to grow up. Family members lived around every corner, and the public school playground was WES LOWREY » 2009 » SEPTEMBER Saturday, September 26th, 2009. Without fail, every vintage brings forth an unforeseen challenge. This year that head-scratcher is the acid levels in our grapes.* Home
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WES LOWREY - Winemakerfiverows.com
361 Tanbark Road
St. David's, Ontario, CanadaL0S 1P0
t: 905.262.5113
e: wes@fiverows.com
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TUESDAY, OCTOBER 22ND, 2019 As my two year old daughter continues to grow up faster than I can fathom, I find myself fixated on how much of her current life she will actually retain as memory. This leads to a wide array thoughts: what are my own earliest memories? does she have any idea why people like wine? is it too early to teach her how to sucker grapes? (come to think of it, _not_ remembering that job would actually beadvantageous)
One thing Frances and I certainly share is a special relationship with our grandparents – and this ties into my earliest memories at the age of three. I have hazy notions of time spent at the farms of two sets of grandparents and accompanying them on vacations up north. I’m sure my recollections of those times have been shaped by listening to family stories over the years, but I treasure them nonetheless. Perhaps my first vivid, individual memory involves my parents bringing my baby sister home from the hospital when I was four, and soon Frances will get to experience that same life-changingmoment.
Not surprisingly, most of my other early memories are either farm or tractor related. I often recall being put to bed with the late summer sun still shining, while my dad was finishing his tractor work within earshot of my bedroom window. I wished (and probably cried) that I could’ve been out there with him, and to this day I find the sound of a tractor very soothing, almost reassuring. I guess Frances comes by her own fascination with Grandpa and his tractor verynaturally!
To that end, it has become abundantly clear that in her world I am just a conduit to the “real farmers”: Grandma and Grandpa. Frances doesn’t seem overly impressed that I play a minor role in the farm and winery operation, instead she fancies me as more of a farm chauffeur, ferrying her back and forth to her beloved St. David’s wonderland. She has a certain way of keeping my ego in check that manages to be both cute and matter of fact, “No Dada, those are Grandpa’s grapes.” I’ve been forced to learn the hard way that there is perhaps no more fruitless cause than trying to impress a two year old with your knowledge of terroir. The times we spend together now may or may not form her first memories, but I will derive no greater joy than watching her continue to develop her own special bond with the “real farmers”. Posted in Family Stories| No Comments »
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WEDNESDAY, APRIL 24TH, 20192016 SYRAH
The surprise reaction to our 2015 Syrah (you had to be in the barn to catch the unmistakable “Syrah double-take”) has many people curious about what is in store for 2016. In fact, you can hear a thorough breakdown of our 2015 Syrah at the 33:20 mark on this episodeof
Two Guys Talking Wine – a fun podcast with André Proulx andMichael Pinkus.
Hand-harvesting for the 2016 Syrah took place on October 11th, with about 1000 kg sourced from each of our Clones (7 and 100). The fermentations were conducted in open top bins and manually punched down three times daily. They were allowed to initiate spontaneously after a four day cold soak, then inoculated with RX60 (Clone 100) and FX10 (Clone 7) on day 6. Both bins were pressed after a total time of 14 days on the skins, then racked to barrel and inoculated with malolactic bacteria MBR31. The wine was aged in French oak (20% new)for 24 months.
Early on, I worried the 2016 Syrah would come across so ripe that it would be considered more of a one-off vintage than a typical example of our cool-climate style. But as the wine evolved in barrel, I became more excited about its prospects of becoming something unique, yet familiar at the same time. This complex Syrah comes at you with aromas of dark fruit, sweet peppercorn, and floral notes. It is both ripe and savoury on the palate, with surprisingly smooth tannins; should age well to 2024. Production: 133 casesPrice: $55
2016 CABERNET SAUVIGNON Based on the sheer number of inquires we’ve fielded on it’s release date, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most anticipated red wines we’ve bottled in recent memory. On November 9th, 2016, we hand-harvested 1500 kg of beautiful Cab from a combination of rows 8, 9, 10, 12 and 13 in our Clone 169 Block and rows 8 & 13 in our “Old Block” – and in retrospect, I wish we had kept a few more rows for ourselves! The fermentations were allowed to start spontaneously after a four day cold soak, then inoculated with FX10 (Clone 169) and F15 (Old Block) on day 6. Peak fermentation temperature reached 30 C, and the bins were pressed after 15 total days on the skins. Aging was carried out in French oak (25% new) for 24 months. I’m of two minds on the 2016 Cab Sauv, in that it is showing very well right now – much smoother than similar versions at release (2007, 2010, 2012) – but I do feel this wine will only improve and blossom with age. I can say this with much more confidence than I used to, based on the feedback we’ve received from the many people aging our Cab’s going back to 2004. Showcasing an abundance of the classic cherry and cassis notes associated with our terroir, this wine smells as intense as it tastes. There is a richness to the palate, with good balancing acidity and evolved tannic structure. It should age well to 2025 and, perhaps, beyond! Production: 108 casesPrice: $55
2016 PINOT NOIR
It stands to reason that the most difficult years to craft good Pinot Noir are usually the best years for later varieties like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Namely, it’s easy to overdo your Pinot when they are rapidly ripening in the hottest part of the summer (think 2007 vintage versus 2009). Leaning on past experience, I took steps to delay the maturation process in 2016 – with a later thinning of green clusters (post-veraison) and less intense leaf removal. All of these efforts did not go unnoticed, as in my harvest notes I have scribbled: “By far the cleanest we’ve ever picked” –Wilma
The advantage of older vines vs. younger vines was also apparent in 2016, as we saw the fruit in our younger block (Clone 777) ripen quicker and lose acidity much faster than our older block (Clone 115). We chose to hand-harvest 2500 kg from rows 2, 3, 4, 8, 9 and 14 of our Old Block on September 13th, 2016. The clusters were sorted three times on the way to three separate one-tonne bins, and fermentations were allowed to start spontaneously after a four day cold soak at 15 C. Each bin was then inoculated with cultured yeast at 1/3 sugar depletion to aid in finishing fermentation (65% RC212, 35% W15). All bins were pressed after a total time of 15 days on the skins, then racked to barrel and inoculated with malolactic strain MBR31. The wine was housed in French oak (30% new) for 24 months. The end result is an elegant Pinot from a hot vintage, with ample acidity and tannins that should help it develop in bottle. Ripe with familiar, terroir-driven notes of wild strawberry, cranberry, cherry, truffle and spices, it should age well to 2024. Production: 161 casesPrice: $55
2018 SAUVIGNON BLANC I embrace the opportunity to work with Sauvignon Blanc as a varietal, but over the years it has proven to be a wine of unforeseen challengesand pressure.
First there are the viticultural challenges. Canopy management and vine balance proved to be those hurdles in 2018 – creating adequate fruit exposure to combat the higher disease pressure, but not so much to bake the berries in the scorching heat. Thankfully, no irrigation was needed in these deep-rooted old vines, which was advantageous in weathering the dry conditions we faced in May, Juneand July.
Each year the harvest timing decision in our Sauv Blanc is ultimately made on flavour development in the berries, which – like acidity levels – can vanish overnight if you are not careful. Our rows were harvested on September 4th, with ideal parameters for crafting aromatic and lively Sauv Blanc (20.4 degrees Brix, 8.0 g/L TA). Then there are the stylistic challenges (i.e. the pressure to get it right!). Based on what has worked in previous ripe vintages, I chose to ferment 75% of the juice in neutral French oak and the remaining 25% in stainless steel. Everything was inoculated with X5 yeast, and went through partial spontaneous malolactic fermentation. All vessels were fermented cool (9 C) for 25 days and stopped at a specific gravity of 0.998. Finally there are the logistical challenges. We produced 220 cases of 2018 Sauv Blanc, by far our largest bottling, but I anticipate that will not be quite enough to meet the demand. So why not just make more? For starters, it is difficult to source clean, previously used white wine barrels. The seven older barrels I currently use average ten years of age, and will need to be gradually replaced in the near future. Incorporating a brand new barrel into the fray might be necessary, but at what cost to my preferred style? I’m hoping the answer lies in a new barrel I’ve sourced (“Piano” – by Tonnellerie Rousseau) that comes highly recommended for it’s gentle treatment of aromatic whites. These are the things I wrestle with up until I sample the recently bottled 2018 Sauv Blanc and realize that a wine of challenges and pressure has somehow become a wine of relief. Production: 220 casesPrice: $35
2018 PINOT GRIS
Our Pinot Gris block is currently the smallest of our plantings. Just an acre or so of vines, struggling away in the heaviest clay on our farm. Although generally beneficial for wine quality, the clay soil has led to inconsistent vine vigour issues over the years. I’ve never minded the small size of the block, as Pinot Gris is my nemesis when it comes to disease pressure, vine upkeep and training…so, of course, we’ve decided to plant more in 2019! I will no doubt regret this decision on many occasions in the future, but for now I will bask in the joy of young vines and untapped potential. Expect to taste this fruit sometime after 2021. The warm, dry summer of 2018 helped produce some very ripe, thick-skinned Pinot Gris by early September. About 2000 kg were harvested on September 4th, after three days of painstaking Botrytis removal (not an easy task in PG!). We chose to pick at an optimal TA level (7.7 g/L) to avoid having to supplement with tartaric acid. 60% of the juice was fermented in neutral French oak barrels and 40% in stainless steel. The yeasts we chose to use were: R2 (for texture and flavour) and X5 (aromatic development). It was fermented cool (9 C) for 21 days, and stopped at a specific gravity of 0.998. Partial spontaneous malolactic fermentation took place in the barrel-fermentedportion of wine.
The thicker skins are evident in the pinkish-gold colour and unmistakable texture of this wine, which also features aromas of apricot, baked peach, honey and vanilla. Production: 135 casesPrice: $35
2018 “JEAN’S BLOCK” RIESLING I was caught a little off guard by how fast the Riesling ripened in 2018. I usually count on a few weeks between the end of the early whites and onset of Riesling, but the steadily rising sugar content, crashing acidity and mounting botrytis threat led to an abnormally early harvest date of September 17. If you were ever going to craft a Riesling with a slight botrytis-affected component, this was the year. Ask anyone in the industry just how quickly and intensely their Riesling and other mid-season whites were sucked into a black hole of rot, and they will shudder at the thought. Our vineyards were stagnant with humid air for the whole second half of September. This called for many pre-harvest days spent dropping affected clusters and berries before being comfortable with fruit condition. The general rule of thumb is that 5% is an acceptable level of botrytized berries, but even 1% makes me nervous – mainly for filtration purposes. Having said all of that, there can be good things about having a tiny bit of botrytis in your white wine, such as increased aromatic complexity, that might be apparent to some in the 2018Riesling.
Pressed juice was 100% fermented in stainless steel with two separate yeast strains: W15 (55%) and X5 (45%). Tanks were fermented cool (9 C) for 28 days and stopped slightly off-dry, at a specific gravity of 1.005, to balance the ample natural acidity. The 2018 “Jean’s Block” Riesling exhibits a showy nose of floral, fruity and mineral elements; with hints of orange blossom, fuzzy peach candy and green apple. Production: 135 casesPrice: $35
_THE FIVE ROWS BARN IS SET TO RE-OPEN ON WEEKENDS STARTING JUNE 1ST, 2019. SEE YOU SOON!_ Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Pinot Gris
, pinot noir
, Releases
, Reviews
, Riesling
, sauvignon blanc
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THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13TH, 2018 It takes special people to inspire the kind of trust that I usually reserve for my own mother when pouring my wines. James and the staff at Treadwell Cuisine are those kind of people. Our relationship with the Treadwell family dates back to our initial foray into the wine business some ten years ago. In fact, it was at a Treadwell supplier dinner in 2008 where we nervously introduced the first Five Rows wines to the public – 12 bottles of 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon in special makeshift labels . They made us feel so comfortable that we never left, eagerly tagging along from Port Dalhousie to downtown Niagara-on-the-Lake. They understand that we are grape farmers first and foremost who happen to make a bit of wine, and promote our brand accordingly. It is the place that has introduced our wines to more people than any other, and I truly consider them to be an extension of the Five Rowstasting room.
With great pleasure we announce the dates of our annual TreadwellWinemaker Dinners
.
Please join us on January 26 or March 2nd for some wonderful food pairings that will inevitably make our wines shine their brightest. As always, I promise to bring Howie and Wilma! Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Family Stories
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WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 28TH, 2018 Now that the last of the Cabernet Sauvignon is finally in barrel, it’s time to take a relaxing look back at the complex 2018 Vintage. Legitimate attempts are made to positively reminisce, only to get bogged down each time with flashbacks to rainy days and rotten fruit. It turns out that there will be nothing “relaxing” about thisexercise after all!
I will never take a dry October for granted again. It becomes apparent, in a year such as this, how extremely fortunate we are as winemakers when late fall conditions are either dry or warm or both. We come to accept that early harvest weather is nearly always variable due to August and September heat and thunderstorm threats, but in recent years we’ve been treated to glorious October and November days that were perfect for ripening Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. This was certainly not the case in 2018! However, do not despair Cab lovers, the last month of hang time does not tell the whole story of 2018 – making it a truly one of a kind and intriguingvintage.
After a normal budbreak date and good initial bud survival rates, the vines took off and never slowed down. Continued lush growth, even through a very dry season, illustrated how important the rainy year of 2017 was to replenish the water table for deep-rooted, old vines. In fact, 2017 and 2018 would prove to be polar opposite vintages from a climate pattern standpoint, which should make for some interesting comparative tastings in the future. As the summer progressed, wary farmers would shy away from predicting just how good the season was shaping up to be, perhaps because they could sense an eventual turn for the worse. I’ve learned the hard way to trust the intuition of wise old farmers…and only hope that I can become one someday. A very hot, humid stretch in late August brought about a rapid transition through veraison and left winemakers drooling at the possibilities. Negatively, it also ramped up disease pressure from both botrytis and Grape Berry Moth, creating breakdown chaos all over the peninsula. All the early varietals were ready to pick at once – and two weeks early at that! It was setting up to be an easy glide into the later varietals, when the aforementioned rains innocently started to fall. What followed was a miserable cycle of vineyard work, fruit sampling, cursing, thinning clusters, sampling again and more cursing. It took much perseverance and the continued ruthless thinning of rotten berries to salvage any kind of quality crop. As a grape grower, it was a minor victory just to have all of your fruit accepted by wineries in 2018. The predominant post-harvest feeling among winemakers was that the early varietals showed much promise, but achieving peak phenolic ripeness in the later stuff (Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc) was hit and miss depending on the vineyard. My hope is that the summer heat, combined with the late season grunt work, was enough to produce a Cabernet Sauvignon worthy of a Five Rowshandwritten label.
Perspective is understandably clouded in the aftermath of a challenging vintage, but my years in this industry have taught me that time will soften my feelings about 2018, just like time in barrel willsoften the wines.
Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Vineyard Note
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MONDAY, APRIL 23RD, 2018_2015 PINOT NOIR_
On particularly trying winemaking days, I can usually convince myself that I would be perfectly content just growing and selling grapes. This assumption was emboldened by a recent accolade received by all the wines made from Lowrey Pinot Noir.
With the stressful filtering and bottling sessions behind us, I nervously pour myself the first glass of newly bottled 2015 Five Rows Pinot Noir…and all the reasons we started a winery in the first place come swirling back. The familiar hallmarks of our terroir leap from the glass and reassure my skeptical nose. I experience the wine first in aromas and flavours, then in memories (good and bad) of my days spent in that vineyard. The balanced finish and pleasing tannins give me hope that the 2015 Pinot Noir will create future memories for all those who choose to cellar it. Thanks to Rick Vansickle for his kind words, and to all the Winemakers who do such wonderful things with our fruit. Most of all, I thank the late Karl Kaiser – my words will never be enough to adequately honour him for the legacy he helped inspire._2015 SYRAH_
After a second consecutive extreme winter in 2014-15, most of our Syrah vines simply said “uncle”. The majority of primary buds were dead, and many of those that did bud out eventually collapsed. We were left with a shoot here and a cluster there, making it very difficult to look after the vineyard in a balanced manner. It was a pleasant surprise when we were able to eke out enough fruit for 4barrels.
I will always associate the 2015 Syrah with living in a trailer beside the barn during harvest (our home was undergoing major renovation). Those memorable Airstream days featured a leaky roof, cool weather, sleeping in a small bed with three dogs, exciting playoff baseball (the Jays losing ALCS Game 6 to the Royals – ugh) and, eventually,nice ripe Syrah!
The 2015 Syrah features a uniquely smoky nose, with hints of pepper and cassis. The palate is more fruit-driven than the nose lets on, and exhibits the typical cool climate Syrah savouriness and texturethat I love.
_2015 CABERNET SAUVIGNON_ I’ve been crafting Cab Sauv longer than any other varietal, and this – the 11th Five Rows Cab – is a striking amalgam of its forebears. It has the noticeable concentration of 2005 (another short crop year), the unmistakeable ripeness of 2004, 2007 and 2010, the floral subtleties of 2008 and 2009, the wonderful aromatic strength of 2011 and 2012, and it shows the versatility of being drinkable now and potentially ageable like the 2013 and 2014. Then again, aren’t we all a patchwork of those that came before? _2017 SAUVIGNON BLANC_ The summer rains of 2017 made vine vigour and crop level control in Sauv Blanc absolutely paramount. The vintage was rescued by the dry heat of September, which helped to ripen what were now massive berries and clusters. For once, we had the luxury of harvesting the crop with as much acidity as was desired (we opted for 8.5 g/L). I’ve always enjoyed my Sauv Blanc a little on the “crisper” side, both as a food pair and sipping wine. The 2017 is an example of that style, more so because of the conditions we faced than anything done differently in the winery. We stuck with the tried and true formula of a 75% older French oak / 25% stainless steel fermentation ratio – all with X5 yeast. The amount of malolactic fermentation that took place is my only secret…mainly because I haveno idea.
_2017 PINOT GRIS_
I think it’s okay to reveal that I’m usually partial to the barrel-fermented portion of our Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. Of all the wines we crafted in the 2017, however, my favourite was the tank-fermented Pinot Gris. It was so tropical and lush that I toyed with the idea of keeping it separate and releasing it on its own. The problem became one of logistics, as it was only 300L or so – making it an awkward volume to support a one-off bottling. In the end, the final blend proved to be far more complex than the individual components, so I don’t regret the decision to give my precious tank over to the barrels. We’ll always have that month of fermentation…_2017 RIESLING_
I consider Jean’s Block Riesling to be the most “personal” of our wines for many reasons, but mainly because I dial it in to my palate specifically. I taste the fermentation constantly near the end of its time, and stop it at the precise point where I feel the residual sugar level balances the natural acidity. It occurs to me now that the fatal flaw in “personal” winemaking is this: you are the only one to blame if the wine is perceived to be out of balance by everyone else! Thankfully for yours truly, the aromatics of this wine are the real star, and rival the Sauv Blanc in intensity – something I’d never have been willing to concede inyear’s past.
_THE FIVE ROWS BARN IS SET TO RE-OPEN ON WEEKENDS STARTING JUNE 2ND, 2018. SEE YOU SOON!_ Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Pinot Gris
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WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 20TH, 2017 For generations now, all major accomplishments on the Lowrey farm have been accompanied with the wave of a hat and a boisterous cry of, “Wahooooo!!”. Whether it was planting our first field of Pinot Noir or harvesting our last crop of plums, I fondly recall my Grandfather doing this on numerous occasions. As the years went on, the ‘Wahoo’ rallying cry crept slowly into everyday life, and could be heard over multiple St. David’s phone exchanges following Joe Carter home runs and Doug Gilmour OT winners. With pride and nostalgia, I now channel his unabashed joy at the end of a longharvest.
Winemakers know that the real end of vintage cannot be marked until the last of the reds are pressed and racked to barrel. It is only then that the true celebrating and reflecting begins. This can be difficult for the grape grower turned winery owner who is more accustomed to throwing a hat in the air as the last cluster of Cabernet Sauvignon is cut from the vine. We’ll give Howie a pass here, because he worked so hard to keep the hungry birds at bay until the not-so-bitter end. As the last days of August gloomily came and went, it became apparent that some kind of miracle would be required to ripen the later varietals in 2017. The collective mood around the industry was grim, to the point where I actually started to make alternative arrangements in case the Syrah and Cab Sauv did not pan out. None of us knew it at the time, but the late season heat wave that we had all but written off was slowly making its way across the prairies. A wet summer had fattened up clusters to the point where early varietal yields were up nearly 20% across the board – surprisingly not at the expense of fruit quality. The September heat arrived at the perfect time to kick ripening into gear, validating the old adage that a stellar Fall can save any vintage. The Sauv Blanc and Pinot Gris came in clean and full of flavour, with the luxury of good natural acidity. The Pinot Noir and Riesling required painstaking botrytis control, but we managed to get them off just prior to a biblical deluge of rain. After dodging our own mini-hurricane season and a few brushes with October frost, Vintage 2017 came to a pleasing denouement. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah berries began to desiccate and concentrate in mid-October and the vines held foliage well into November, allowing for as late a harvest as was desired. Wilma aptly noted, while we brought in the last of the Cab, that it seemed like we had favourable weather on every picking date this year – and she couldn’t recall that ever happening before. That might just be worthy of a Wahoo! Please join us to celebrate this memorable year at one (or both) of our upcoming Treadwell Winemaker Dinners. Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Syrah
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SUNDAY, AUGUST 13TH, 2017 Lately, I’ve gotten into the habit of singing the song “Here Comes the Sun” to my daughter every morning, in hopes of changing the prevailing weather pattern of 2017. I make an effort not to complain too much about the excessive rain around her, just to lessen the chance she grows up to be a crotchety grape farmer. So, instead, we focus on “sunnier” topics and stories from glorious vintages ofthe past.
She has no idea that you can literally watch the vines grow this year – we must have set some kind of record for photosynthesis by now! I can’t recall a year where every bud on every shoot is alive and thriving. On the macro level this is a great thing (healthy vines, good crop level, replenished water table), but when you are fully immersed in this tropical Niagara jungle on a daily basis, you quickly realize the enormity of task we are up against. The rains of 2017 have been a frightening reminder that there is no “typical” growing season anymore. There could not be a more stark contrast between two vintages than 2016 and 2017 to this point. Consequently, our vineyard strategies have had to be dramatically altered to account for the increase in shoot growth. Unfortunately, it’s not as simple as just aggressively thinning down the vines to their “normal” level, because the few leftover shoots and clusters would grow too vigorously. Therefore, I’ve taken more of a staggered approach to thinning this year, letting vines gradually acclimate to the increase in water and nutrient uptake. Keeping more shoots and clusters on the vine for a longer period of time can also be risky, because too much crowding in the canopy might lead to increased disease pressure. So being out there every day thinning, scouting and gauging shoot growth is essential. Thankfully, the disease pressure has been minimal thus far…that is until we sustained some hail damage over the past week, presenting a new challenge of split and bruised berries. Split berries and excessive humidity are the perfect recipe for Botrytis, so we are pulling leaves and opening up the canopy a little earlier than normal to help dry up the hail damage. For the record, I’m not quite comfortable using the B-word around Frances yet. This season has proven to be an exercise in patience and adaptation. I hold out hope, looking at the sunny long range forecast, that my determined morning sing-along is finally paying off! Posted in Field Notes ,Vineyard Note | No
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FRIDAY, APRIL 21ST, 2017_2014 PINOT NOIR_
Production: 143 cases Aromas – cherry, floral (violet), red licorice (Nibs), truffle,earth, mushroom
Palate – typical “Lowrey terroir” profile of ripe cherry, pleasing acidity and evolved tannic structure_2014 SYRAH_
Production: 122 cases Aromas – wild black raspberry, pepper, cooked meat, tobacco Palate – ripe red fruit (cherry, plum), savoury core, smooth tannins make it hard not to drink right now _2014 CABERNET SAUVIGNON_ Production: 123 cases Aromas – wild black raspberry, cherry, bell pepper, violet Palate – cherry flavoured candy, currant, dark chocolate, structural versatility to enjoy now with meats and cheeses or to lay down for another few years _2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC_ Production: 220 cases Aromas – pineapple, starfruit, grapefruit, peach drink, vanillabean
Palate – ripe tropical flavours balanced by crisp citrus notes, lingering finish, best enjoyed just below room temperature_2016 PINOT GRIS_
Production: 110 cases Aromas – honeydew melon, apricot, whispers of single malt scotch Palate – full-bodied, balanced, signature Lowrey Pinot Gris texture, tastes like Wilma’s homemade butter tarts _2016 “JEAN’S BLOCK” RIESLING_ Production: 119 cases Aromas – intense and alluring, floral notes with strong citrusundertones, apple
Palate – zippy acidity, a real depth of flavour, balanced finish, excellent food pairing wine, serve slightly chilled Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Pinot Gris
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, Syrah
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FRIDAY, APRIL 21ST, 2017 As we get ready for another busy spring season of new wines and budding vines, I’m faced with an unforeseen conundrum. It comes in the form of a nine pound baby girl named Frances, and the seeming lack of hours in a day to do what I used to do. Those who have read this blog would know me as a hyper-focused creature of habit, eagerly devoting my time to barn and field. In my defence, the task just draws you in completely – to the point where it consumes much of your thought and attention should you let it…and I do. I’ve managed to convince myself that this is the only possible way to make good wine and damned be the person or thing (aside from my dogs) that gets in the way of this ultimate pursuit! Enter the cuddly conundrum. My wife, Tanya, and I recently decided to start a family and were blessed with a healthy baby girl on March 19th, 2017 – the ultimate reality check. To say that my priorities have been altered would be an understatement, but not quite in the way that I expected. At a time when I was fully prepared to be overwhelmed and stretched thin, I somehow feel more capable than ever to summon the effort required to produce the best possible fruit that our land will allow. Little Frances has no idea that she’s already had a positive impact on the way I approach farming and life. Perhaps it is a renewed sense of stewardship for future generations or perhaps it is just adrenaline. Either way, I feel more inspired to work hard and less restrained by previous fears and uncertainties. This is entirely due to the support of those around me: Tanya, my parents, retail staff, vineyard crews and our beloved “Five Rows Faithful”. I know I can count on them to keep the barn humming, even when I’m at home being a Dad. So no need to worry, the wines will get the same attention they always do – you’ll just have to sit through a few baby pictures to get ataste!
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FRIDAY, APRIL 21ST, 2017 Few things inspire me more than people who can write and perform music. Every year I try to attend as many concerts as possible to nurture my love of live musical performance. The beautifully raw sound, the connection with the audience and seeing someone uninhibited at the top of their craft is as good as it gets. I’ve come to grips with the fact that I can never be a rock star, but it struck me one summer night, as I was walking out of a Bahamas show at Jackson-Triggs, that I’m lucky enough to express myself through my wines and in conversations with visitors to our barn. The more I thought about it, the more I came up with interesting parallels between me and my songwriting idols. Here are a few: Songs have music and lyrics, wines have viticulture and enology. I prefer to release “albums” as opposed to catchy singles. We are constantly being judged, often times right to our face (this can be good and bad). People want to hear the hits (Sauv Blanc), so you must resist getting tired of playing them and never take them for granted. However, you can’t rest on your laurels and should always strive to create newcontent.
It can feel monotonous at times, but you have to remember that every performance could be someone’s introduction to your work. There are times when we want to be new and innovative and times when we’d rather be rooted and old-fashioned. Like the best songs, wines speak to everyone differently and are often interpreted in unanticipated ways. Eventually other people take ownership of your work and you have tolet it go.
There is much solitary time, but the joy is in sharing your craft. My wines are my songs – not everyone will like them, but that’sokay.
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