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A CORDIAL AFFAIR
I've never been much of a trend spotter, and even less of a trend setter - just ask my friends from high school how many other people were wearing thrift-store kaftans. (Answer: none.) So, it would probably be wise to refrain from making any kind of predictions about the kinds of things that are likely THE LIP LADY’S SECRET GRANOLA When somebody around me mentions Peruvian food, there are a lot of wonderful things that should pop into my mind. I could, for instance, think back to my first taste of tiradito, a refined take on ceviche that features nearly transparent slices of milky-white fish in an addictive chile-laced marinade.I could also remember Peruvian potatoes and their spectrum of shapes, sizes and colors, or the ZEN AND THE ART OF MANDARIN JAM As though more proof were needed that I have to stop reading food blogs while I’m pregnant now I’ll have to run out and buy a bag of mandarins!The word "marmellata" in Italian is the general one used for most fruit preserves, and not just for citruses – so you would say e.g. "marmellata di fragole" (strawberry jam), "di pesche" (peach preserve), or "di fichi" (fig jam). 10 GREAT THINGS TO DO (AND EAT) ON PEI Okay, okay, so nothing will stump you guys. I don't know why I try. :) I was, of course, on Prince Edward Island, best known for being the smallest Canadian province and the home of Lucy Maud Montgomery, who published the enduringly popular Anne of 5 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT CALABRIA My article deadline is looming, but I wanted to share a few impressions of Calabria while they're still fresh. I don't normally have the opportunity to take photos on these assignments, but for the first time I wasn't traveling with a photographer and so didn't feel completely ridiculous whipping out my own camera! A few THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX So, Sicily. As much as I loved Palermo, I have to say it paled in comparison to the the five days I spent with the most incredible group of bloggers at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School.. If the name Anna Tasca Lanza rings a bell for you, there’s a good reason. In her day, she was the authority on Sicilian food—the Marcella Hazan of the south. Back in the late 80s and early 90s, before RECIPES | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Breakfast Baked Apples with Spices, Olive Oil and Nuts Blueberry and Lavender Butter Browned Butter and Vanilla Bean Brioche Cape Breton Oatcakes Homemade Cultured Butter Jamaican Breakfast Soup Mandarin Jam Peach and Lemongrass Butter Pear-Cardamom Butter Seven-Year Granola Soup Bulgarian Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup) Caramelized Zucchini Soup with Rosemary and Walnuts Chicken and ABOUT | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Hi! I'm Melissa. I write and photograph The Traveler's Lunchbox from my home, wherever in the world that may be. Right now it's Stuttgart, Germany. During the life of this blog it has also been Seattle (my home city) and Edinburgh, Scotland (where I lived for seven years and completed a PhD). At various ARCHIVE | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Entries by Title Click on an entry title below to view the full text of that entry. Endings, Beginnings, and Spaghetti The Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School Springtime in Sicily Born-Again Vegetable Boiling An Inspiring Book Cold Comfort The Pizza Project Happy 2012, Long Time No PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared.A CORDIAL AFFAIR
I've never been much of a trend spotter, and even less of a trend setter - just ask my friends from high school how many other people were wearing thrift-store kaftans. (Answer: none.) So, it would probably be wise to refrain from making any kind of predictions about the kinds of things that are likely THE LIP LADY’S SECRET GRANOLA When somebody around me mentions Peruvian food, there are a lot of wonderful things that should pop into my mind. I could, for instance, think back to my first taste of tiradito, a refined take on ceviche that features nearly transparent slices of milky-white fish in an addictive chile-laced marinade.I could also remember Peruvian potatoes and their spectrum of shapes, sizes and colors, or the ZEN AND THE ART OF MANDARIN JAM As though more proof were needed that I have to stop reading food blogs while I’m pregnant now I’ll have to run out and buy a bag of mandarins!The word "marmellata" in Italian is the general one used for most fruit preserves, and not just for citruses – so you would say e.g. "marmellata di fragole" (strawberry jam), "di pesche" (peach preserve), or "di fichi" (fig jam). 10 GREAT THINGS TO DO (AND EAT) ON PEI Okay, okay, so nothing will stump you guys. I don't know why I try. :) I was, of course, on Prince Edward Island, best known for being the smallest Canadian province and the home of Lucy Maud Montgomery, who published the enduringly popular Anne of 5 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT CALABRIA My article deadline is looming, but I wanted to share a few impressions of Calabria while they're still fresh. I don't normally have the opportunity to take photos on these assignments, but for the first time I wasn't traveling with a photographer and so didn't feel completely ridiculous whipping out my own camera! A few PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared. A CHUTNEY FOR ALL SEASONS My seasonal clock seems to be all messed up this year. Normally I don't even wait for the first autumn leaf to hit the pavement before breaking out my Le Creuset and cranking up the oven. Things like cream, butter and cheese go from occasional indulgences to refrigerator staples, and salad relinquishes its starring role THE GREAT SPAGHETTI COMPROMISE I wish I had a more picturesque story to go along with this recipe. I considered for a moment making up one about about a rustic trattoria in northern Italy, a wrinkled old grandmother in the kitchen, a lot of hand gestures and an almost-illegible recipe scribbled on an empty flour sack. But then ICOLD COMFORT
Europe, as you've no doubt heard, has been pretty cold lately. After a far-warmer-than-average November, December and January, February donned its icy gloves and sent an entire continent reeling with a left hook that nobody saw coming. FEBRUARY | 2009 | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX ‘Our’ Ragù Bolognese. I wish I had a more picturesque story to go along with this recipe. I considered for a moment making up one about about a rustic trattoria in northern Italy, a wrinkled old grandmother in the kitchen, a lot of hand gestures and an almost-illegible recipe scribbled on an empty flour sack. But then I thought better of it. QUINCES, THE LAZY WAY Braised Quinces A while ago there was a meme making the rounds which I did my very best to avoid. As my track record with memes had already deteriorated considerably by that point, the fact that I dropped the ball probably didn't raise many eyebrows, but still I felt quite guilty. You see, I wanted WHAT NOT TO DO WITH MEYER LEMONS I recently had a friend try Meyer Lemons for the first time for her favorite Lemon Tart and was disappointed to lose the tartness. It became too sweet without the kick of lemon to balance out the flavor.Meyers make a divine marmalade and luckily, here in California, Meyers are a common backyard tree so all we have to do is knock on a neighbor’s door to enjoy the fresh citrus of Meyer lemons. NOVEMBER | 2009 | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX I think it would be somewhat of an understatement to say I have fondness for books about food, travel and culture. So when Laura Kelley asked if I would like to see a copy of her new cookbook The Silk Road Gourmet – the first of a self-published three volume series exploring the cuisines of thirty countries along the ancient Silk Road – I couldn’t hit the reply button fast enough to sayyes.
RICOTTA IN PRINT
If you're in the Seattle area and you happen to have a copy of the Sunday Seattle Times on your table, you might want to flip to page 14 of Pacific Northwest Magazine, where I have an article rhapsodizing about the pleasure (and ease) of homemade ricotta. MARCH | 2009 | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Oeufs en Meurette. And in just under the wire a post for March. Is the entire month gone already? I just can’t keep track anymore. But if it is, and that is precisely what my calendar is telling me, then winter is gone too, and that is welcome news. THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX So, Sicily. As much as I loved Palermo, I have to say it paled in comparison to the the five days I spent with the most incredible group of bloggers at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School.. If the name Anna Tasca Lanza rings a bell for you, there’s a good reason. In her day, she was the authority on Sicilian food—the Marcella Hazan of the south. Back in the late 80s and early 90s, before RECIPES | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Breakfast Baked Apples with Spices, Olive Oil and Nuts Blueberry and Lavender Butter Browned Butter and Vanilla Bean Brioche Cape Breton Oatcakes Homemade Cultured Butter Jamaican Breakfast Soup Mandarin Jam Peach and Lemongrass Butter Pear-Cardamom Butter Seven-Year Granola Soup Bulgarian Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup) Caramelized Zucchini Soup with Rosemary and Walnuts ABOUT | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Hi! I'm Melissa. I write and photograph The Traveler's Lunchbox from my home, wherever in the world that may be. Right now it's Stuttgart, Germany. During the life of this blog it has also been Seattle (my home city) and Edinburgh, Scotland (where I lived for seven years and completed a PhD). At various ARCHIVE | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Entries by Title Click on an entry title below to view the full text of that entry. Endings, Beginnings, and Spaghetti The Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School Springtime in Sicily Born-Again Vegetable Boiling An Inspiring Book Cold Comfort The Pizza Project Happy 2012, Long Time No PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared. THE LIP LADY’S SECRET GRANOLA In a large bowl, combine the whole oats, ground oats, nuts, seeds and spices. In a microwave-safe bowl (or in a saucepan over medium heat), combine the brown sugar, butter and water and heat just until the butter has melted and the mixture is bubbly. Stir the mixture together until smooth, then stir in the salt and vanilla.A CORDIAL AFFAIR
I've never been much of a trend spotter, and even less of a trend setter - just ask my friends from high school how many other people were wearing thrift-store kaftans. (Answer: none.) So, it would probably be wise to refrain from making any kind of predictions about the kinds of things that are likely A CHUTNEY FOR ALL SEASONS 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt. grated peel of 1 organic orange (optional) First, open a few windows (you’ll soon see why). Place all the ingredients except the orange peel (start with the smaller amounts given) in a heavy nonreactive pot and bring to a boil, stirring so everything gets well combined. Lower the heat and simmer gently,stirring
10 GREAT THINGS TO DO (AND EAT) ON PEI Okay, okay, so nothing will stump you guys. I don't know why I try. :) I was, of course, on Prince Edward Island, best known for being the smallest Canadian province and the home of Lucy Maud Montgomery, who published the enduringly popular Anne of 5 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT CALABRIA My article deadline is looming, but I wanted to share a few impressions of Calabria while they're still fresh. I don't normally have the opportunity to take photos on these assignments, but for the first time I wasn't traveling with a photographer and so didn't feel completely ridiculous whipping out my own camera! A few THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX So, Sicily. As much as I loved Palermo, I have to say it paled in comparison to the the five days I spent with the most incredible group of bloggers at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School.. If the name Anna Tasca Lanza rings a bell for you, there’s a good reason. In her day, she was the authority on Sicilian food—the Marcella Hazan of the south. Back in the late 80s and early 90s, before RECIPES | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Breakfast Baked Apples with Spices, Olive Oil and Nuts Blueberry and Lavender Butter Browned Butter and Vanilla Bean Brioche Cape Breton Oatcakes Homemade Cultured Butter Jamaican Breakfast Soup Mandarin Jam Peach and Lemongrass Butter Pear-Cardamom Butter Seven-Year Granola Soup Bulgarian Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup) Caramelized Zucchini Soup with Rosemary and Walnuts ABOUT | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Hi! I'm Melissa. I write and photograph The Traveler's Lunchbox from my home, wherever in the world that may be. Right now it's Stuttgart, Germany. During the life of this blog it has also been Seattle (my home city) and Edinburgh, Scotland (where I lived for seven years and completed a PhD). At various ARCHIVE | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Entries by Title Click on an entry title below to view the full text of that entry. Endings, Beginnings, and Spaghetti The Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School Springtime in Sicily Born-Again Vegetable Boiling An Inspiring Book Cold Comfort The Pizza Project Happy 2012, Long Time No PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared. THE LIP LADY’S SECRET GRANOLA In a large bowl, combine the whole oats, ground oats, nuts, seeds and spices. In a microwave-safe bowl (or in a saucepan over medium heat), combine the brown sugar, butter and water and heat just until the butter has melted and the mixture is bubbly. Stir the mixture together until smooth, then stir in the salt and vanilla.A CORDIAL AFFAIR
I've never been much of a trend spotter, and even less of a trend setter - just ask my friends from high school how many other people were wearing thrift-store kaftans. (Answer: none.) So, it would probably be wise to refrain from making any kind of predictions about the kinds of things that are likely A CHUTNEY FOR ALL SEASONS 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt. grated peel of 1 organic orange (optional) First, open a few windows (you’ll soon see why). Place all the ingredients except the orange peel (start with the smaller amounts given) in a heavy nonreactive pot and bring to a boil, stirring so everything gets well combined. Lower the heat and simmer gently,stirring
10 GREAT THINGS TO DO (AND EAT) ON PEI Okay, okay, so nothing will stump you guys. I don't know why I try. :) I was, of course, on Prince Edward Island, best known for being the smallest Canadian province and the home of Lucy Maud Montgomery, who published the enduringly popular Anne of 5 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT CALABRIA My article deadline is looming, but I wanted to share a few impressions of Calabria while they're still fresh. I don't normally have the opportunity to take photos on these assignments, but for the first time I wasn't traveling with a photographer and so didn't feel completely ridiculous whipping out my own camera! A few PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared.KITCHEN CLASSICS
1 1/2 cups (360g) lard or unsalted butter, cold. 1/4-1/2 cup (60-120ml) cold water, or as needed. a few pinches flaky salt (such as Maldon) for sprinkling on top, if desired. Preheat the oven to 350F/175C. Combine all the dry ingredients in a bowl. Work the lard or butter in with your fingers until everything is homogenous.COLD COMFORT
Fish out the thyme. While the lentils are cooking, heat the butter or oil in a smallish skillet and sauté the onion over medium heat, stirring frequently, until browned and caramelized in places, about 12-15 minutes. Add the garlic and spices and fry just until deeply aromatic, about 30 seconds.THE MIGHTY MACARON
The basic formula for a French macaron is more or less the same wherever you go: two small almond flour-based cookies, usually no more than an inch and a half in diameter and usually sporting attractive colors and added flavor essences, encasing a thick and creamy filing of often – but by no means obligatory – corresponding flavor and color.The standards, available almost anywhere, are CELEBRATING LOVE (CAKE) Preheat oven to 300F/150C. In a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until thick and light. Add the melted butter, honey, rose water, lemon zest, nutmeg and cardamom. Beat well. Stir in the cashews together with the semolina and candied fruit, if using. FRIENDS, BEETS, ENEMIES 3 oz (85g) sheep’s milk feta, crumbled. 1/2 cup (50g) toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped (toasted almonds or hazelnuts are also great) leaves from a couple sprigs fresh thyme. Preheat the oven to 400F/200C. Wash the beets, then wrap them in a double layer of aluminum foil. Place on a baking sheet and roast until a knife easilyslides through
QUINCES, THE LAZY WAY 8-12 whole quinces (depending on size) 3 1/2 cups/900ml water. 1 3/4 cups/350g sugar. few strips lemon zest. First heat the oven to 160C/325F. Wash and pat dry the quinces. You can halve them if they’re particularly large, but you can also leave them whole. Place in a baking tray and pour the water on top and sprinkle over the sugarand lemon
Q&A: THE SILK ROAD GOURMET Shape into 2-inch (5cm) meatballs. Refrigerate another hour before cooking. In a large sauté pan bring the broth and water to a boil over medium-high heat. Melt butter in the broth. Add the meatballs and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, covered, until the meatballs are tender, about 30 minutes. 7 REASONS YOU SHOULD GO TO MARSEILLE 7 Reasons You Should Go to Marseille. 1. It’s not as bad as you think. Let’s be frank: Marseille has a whopper of a reputation. When I was 17 and traveling around Europe for the first time, my guidebook painted such a scary picture of Marseille (crime! drugs! immigrants!) that I even wondered if it was safe to change trains there. As it DULCE DE MEMBRILLO, AND A (HOST) MOTHER’S LOVE Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook the quinces for about 40 minutes, until they begin to crack. With a slotted spoon, remove the quinces from the pan, and set them aside to cool. When the quinces are cool enough to handle, peel them, and remove and discard the seeds. THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX So, Sicily. As much as I loved Palermo, I have to say it paled in comparison to the the five days I spent with the most incredible group of bloggers at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School.. If the name Anna Tasca Lanza rings a bell for you, there’s a good reason. In her day, she was the authority on Sicilian food—the Marcella Hazan of the south. Back in the late 80s and early 90s, before RECIPES | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Breakfast Baked Apples with Spices, Olive Oil and Nuts Blueberry and Lavender Butter Browned Butter and Vanilla Bean Brioche Cape Breton Oatcakes Homemade Cultured Butter Jamaican Breakfast Soup Mandarin Jam Peach and Lemongrass Butter Pear-Cardamom Butter Seven-Year Granola Soup Bulgarian Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup) Caramelized Zucchini Soup with Rosemary and Walnuts ABOUT | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Hi! I'm Melissa. I write and photograph The Traveler's Lunchbox from my home, wherever in the world that may be. Right now it's Stuttgart, Germany. During the life of this blog it has also been Seattle (my home city) and Edinburgh, Scotland (where I lived for seven years and completed a PhD). At various ARCHIVE | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Entries by Title Click on an entry title below to view the full text of that entry. Endings, Beginnings, and Spaghetti The Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School Springtime in Sicily Born-Again Vegetable Boiling An Inspiring Book Cold Comfort The Pizza Project Happy 2012, Long Time No PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared. THE LIP LADY’S SECRET GRANOLA In a large bowl, combine the whole oats, ground oats, nuts, seeds and spices. In a microwave-safe bowl (or in a saucepan over medium heat), combine the brown sugar, butter and water and heat just until the butter has melted and the mixture is bubbly. Stir the mixture together until smooth, then stir in the salt and vanilla.A CORDIAL AFFAIR
I've never been much of a trend spotter, and even less of a trend setter - just ask my friends from high school how many other people were wearing thrift-store kaftans. (Answer: none.) So, it would probably be wise to refrain from making any kind of predictions about the kinds of things that are likely A CHUTNEY FOR ALL SEASONS 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt. grated peel of 1 organic orange (optional) First, open a few windows (you’ll soon see why). Place all the ingredients except the orange peel (start with the smaller amounts given) in a heavy nonreactive pot and bring to a boil, stirring so everything gets well combined. Lower the heat and simmer gently,stirring
10 GREAT THINGS TO DO (AND EAT) ON PEI Okay, okay, so nothing will stump you guys. I don't know why I try. :) I was, of course, on Prince Edward Island, best known for being the smallest Canadian province and the home of Lucy Maud Montgomery, who published the enduringly popular Anne of 5 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT CALABRIA My article deadline is looming, but I wanted to share a few impressions of Calabria while they're still fresh. I don't normally have the opportunity to take photos on these assignments, but for the first time I wasn't traveling with a photographer and so didn't feel completely ridiculous whipping out my own camera! A few THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX So, Sicily. As much as I loved Palermo, I have to say it paled in comparison to the the five days I spent with the most incredible group of bloggers at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School.. If the name Anna Tasca Lanza rings a bell for you, there’s a good reason. In her day, she was the authority on Sicilian food—the Marcella Hazan of the south. Back in the late 80s and early 90s, before RECIPES | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Breakfast Baked Apples with Spices, Olive Oil and Nuts Blueberry and Lavender Butter Browned Butter and Vanilla Bean Brioche Cape Breton Oatcakes Homemade Cultured Butter Jamaican Breakfast Soup Mandarin Jam Peach and Lemongrass Butter Pear-Cardamom Butter Seven-Year Granola Soup Bulgarian Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup) Caramelized Zucchini Soup with Rosemary and Walnuts ABOUT | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Hi! I'm Melissa. I write and photograph The Traveler's Lunchbox from my home, wherever in the world that may be. Right now it's Stuttgart, Germany. During the life of this blog it has also been Seattle (my home city) and Edinburgh, Scotland (where I lived for seven years and completed a PhD). At various ARCHIVE | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Entries by Title Click on an entry title below to view the full text of that entry. Endings, Beginnings, and Spaghetti The Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School Springtime in Sicily Born-Again Vegetable Boiling An Inspiring Book Cold Comfort The Pizza Project Happy 2012, Long Time No PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared. THE LIP LADY’S SECRET GRANOLA In a large bowl, combine the whole oats, ground oats, nuts, seeds and spices. In a microwave-safe bowl (or in a saucepan over medium heat), combine the brown sugar, butter and water and heat just until the butter has melted and the mixture is bubbly. Stir the mixture together until smooth, then stir in the salt and vanilla.A CORDIAL AFFAIR
I've never been much of a trend spotter, and even less of a trend setter - just ask my friends from high school how many other people were wearing thrift-store kaftans. (Answer: none.) So, it would probably be wise to refrain from making any kind of predictions about the kinds of things that are likely A CHUTNEY FOR ALL SEASONS 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt. grated peel of 1 organic orange (optional) First, open a few windows (you’ll soon see why). Place all the ingredients except the orange peel (start with the smaller amounts given) in a heavy nonreactive pot and bring to a boil, stirring so everything gets well combined. Lower the heat and simmer gently,stirring
10 GREAT THINGS TO DO (AND EAT) ON PEI Okay, okay, so nothing will stump you guys. I don't know why I try. :) I was, of course, on Prince Edward Island, best known for being the smallest Canadian province and the home of Lucy Maud Montgomery, who published the enduringly popular Anne of 5 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT CALABRIA My article deadline is looming, but I wanted to share a few impressions of Calabria while they're still fresh. I don't normally have the opportunity to take photos on these assignments, but for the first time I wasn't traveling with a photographer and so didn't feel completely ridiculous whipping out my own camera! A few PHOTOS | THE TRAVELER'S LUNCHBOX Click on a picture to see the post in which it appeared.KITCHEN CLASSICS
1 1/2 cups (360g) lard or unsalted butter, cold. 1/4-1/2 cup (60-120ml) cold water, or as needed. a few pinches flaky salt (such as Maldon) for sprinkling on top, if desired. Preheat the oven to 350F/175C. Combine all the dry ingredients in a bowl. Work the lard or butter in with your fingers until everything is homogenous.COLD COMFORT
Fish out the thyme. While the lentils are cooking, heat the butter or oil in a smallish skillet and sauté the onion over medium heat, stirring frequently, until browned and caramelized in places, about 12-15 minutes. Add the garlic and spices and fry just until deeply aromatic, about 30 seconds.THE MIGHTY MACARON
Heat the oven to 160C/325F and bake for 10 to 11 minutes, or until set and firm on top. Rotate the baking sheets after 5 minutes for even baking. Remove macarons from oven and transfer parchment to a cooling rack. When cool, slide a metal offset spatula or pairing knife underneath the macaron to remove from parchment. CELEBRATING LOVE (CAKE) Preheat oven to 300F/150C. In a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until thick and light. Add the melted butter, honey, rose water, lemon zest, nutmeg and cardamom. Beat well. Stir in the cashews together with the semolina and candied fruit, if using. FRIENDS, BEETS, ENEMIES 3 oz (85g) sheep’s milk feta, crumbled. 1/2 cup (50g) toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped (toasted almonds or hazelnuts are also great) leaves from a couple sprigs fresh thyme. Preheat the oven to 400F/200C. Wash the beets, then wrap them in a double layer of aluminum foil. Place on a baking sheet and roast until a knife easilyslides through
QUINCES, THE LAZY WAY 8-12 whole quinces (depending on size) 3 1/2 cups/900ml water. 1 3/4 cups/350g sugar. few strips lemon zest. First heat the oven to 160C/325F. Wash and pat dry the quinces. You can halve them if they’re particularly large, but you can also leave them whole. Place in a baking tray and pour the water on top and sprinkle over the sugarand lemon
Q&A: THE SILK ROAD GOURMET Shape into 2-inch (5cm) meatballs. Refrigerate another hour before cooking. In a large sauté pan bring the broth and water to a boil over medium-high heat. Melt butter in the broth. Add the meatballs and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, covered, until the meatballs are tender, about 30 minutes. 7 REASONS YOU SHOULD GO TO MARSEILLE 7 Reasons You Should Go to Marseille. 1. It’s not as bad as you think. Let’s be frank: Marseille has a whopper of a reputation. When I was 17 and traveling around Europe for the first time, my guidebook painted such a scary picture of Marseille (crime! drugs! immigrants!) that I even wondered if it was safe to change trains there. As it DULCE DE MEMBRILLO, AND A (HOST) MOTHER’S LOVE Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook the quinces for about 40 minutes, until they begin to crack. With a slotted spoon, remove the quinces from the pan, and set them aside to cool. When the quinces are cool enough to handle, peel them, and remove and discard the seeds.Skip to content
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ENDINGS, BEGINNINGS, AND SPAGHETTI__
August already. How did that happen? However it did, it sure happened quick. One minute it was spring, with each long, languid day offering the promise of infinitely more to come, and the next it’s late August, and each warm breeze feels like the closing act. Even if the temperature hasn’t dipped too much yet, the evenings are becoming noticeably shorter, and as early pumpkins and apples start appearing beside the peaches, corn and tomatoes, I know it’s just a matter of time before we’re digging out the parkas and extra socks. Of course it’s still a while before that happens, and when I stop to think I remember how the end of summer means the beginning of fall, a season I love almost as much. This year the sense of August as the harbinger of an ending seems particularly acute, though, since, well… it is. Not to over-dramatize things, since all the changes are positive and welcome, but as much as I’m looking forward to them, beginning something new always means ending something old, and when that something old has brought good things, leaving it behind is hard. In my case, the end of this month is bringing about some significant life changes. We’re moving again, for starters, though this time luckily not across hemispheres, but just across the country—to Stuttgart, capital of the southwest. Known as an industrial powerhouse, and cradle of the formidable German automobile industry, I’ve been thrilled to learn that Stuttgart is also Germany’s gastronomic capital. It makes sense, actually, as the city is located barely an hour from both France and Switzerland, is smack in the middle of German wine country and is surrounded by the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants in the republic (61 in the region, at last count). I daresay we couldn’t have chosen betterif we’d tried.
And then there’s the reason for the move. I’ve been offered a job down there, a really, really great job, one that combines my background in language and writing and public relations and offers me the chance to work for one of the most well-known and well-respected companies in Germany. It’s like nothing I’ve done before, but somehow it’s perfect for me—well, as perfect as something that doesn’t involve food can be. It will mean big changes, though, in everything from how I spend my days to what I spend them thinking about to how much time and energy I’ll have to potter around the kitchen at their end—to, of course, how blogging will fit into thepicture.
But let’s not worry about that now. First, I have a promise to fulfill. Last time we spoke I told you I’d share a treat from Sicily with you, and I don’t intend to let you down. In fact, it would be criminally negligent of me to not share this particular recipe with you, since it offers one of the best vehicles for sweet, juicy late-summer tomatoes (i.e. the kind in your markets NOW) ever devised. In fact, I’ll even go out on a limb and suggest it makes one of the best pasta sauces ever devised. I’ve seriously been tempted to spend this month eating nothing else. Now here’s where I have to admit a bit of a convoluted background to this dish. Ostensibly it’s a slight modification of the famous _pesto trapanese_, a tomato, basil and almond sauce hailing from the northwestern city of Trapani. I actually didn’t eat this in Sicily—I wasn’t near Trapani, and it wasn’t the right season anyway—but shortly after I returned home I found the recipe in one of the newest Sicilian cookbooks on my shelf, _Made in Sicily_ by London restaurateur and author Giorgio Locatelli. What initially caught my eye in Locatelli’s version was his substitution of mint for the more common basil, something I may have been dubious about once upon a time, but certainly not since traveling to Sicily this spring and falling in love with the intense Sicilian mint that perfumes everything there. The second thing that struck me was that instead of grinding everything together to the usual homogenous mass that characterizes a pesto, he left the various components chunky and distinct, juicy nuggets of tomato interrupted by splinters of almond and curls of fresh mint. Or at least that’s what the luminous photo next to the dish showed. And for some reason, after admiring that photo and quickly scanning the list of ingredients, I ran off to make the dish without, well, actually reading the recipe itself. It was, however, as spectacular as I expected: the sweet bursts of tomato, like half-melted rubies clinging to the hot pasta, the toasty crunch of almonds, the peppery slick of olive oil, and the ribbons of spicy mint, which is so unexpectedly sublime with tomato and garlic, so clean and fresh and bracing, I might never touch a sprig of basil in their presence again. Unfortunately it was also wrong, as I discovered after I’d made the sauce this way two or three times. Don’t ask me what the photographer was smoking, but the instruction was clear as day in the recipe, when I actually bothered to read it: grind everything to apaste in a mortar.
Oops. But by then it was too late; I had fallen so in love with my accidental version and its rustic, toothsome chunks that I simply couldn’t fathom doing it any other way. And since it’s the version I love, it’s the version I’m giving you—though to nip any confusion in the bud I’ve changed the name from ‘pesto’ to to the more generic ‘salsa’. Even if you’re a fan of the original I urge you to give this one a try; though I should warn you, you may soon find yourself trying to sneak tomatoes, almonds and mint into nearly everything you eat. Not that this qualifies as a problem in_my_ book.
I just hope the good people of Trapani will forgive me for my freewheeling approach to their gastronomic heritage. And I hope you, dear readers, will forgive me for another stretch of silence around here. On the bright side, a belly full of spaghetti should tide youover nicely.
__
SPAGHETTI WITH SALSA TRAPANESE You may have noticed that I mentioned making this dish shortly after returning from Sicily early this spring, long before any edible tomatoes were on the market in this hemisphere. I was, in fact, so eager to try it that I gave it a shot with canned San Marzanos, drained, rinsed, seeded and chopped. I have to say, it honestly wasn’t half bad—in fact I’d rate it as significantly better choice than out-of-season (i.e. hothouse) fresh tomatoes. Of course candy-sweet summer heirlooms are in a league of their own, but should you find yourself craving this in the off-season, there’s no shame in substituting the contents of three 400g/14oz cans for the amount of tomatoes given here. p.s. I know peeling tomatoes is a chore, but please don’t skip this step or the pieces won’t get that luscious, half-melted texture when they hit the hot pasta. p.p.s. This sauce certainly doesn’t only go with pasta; try it over sauteed fish or chicken too. _Source_: adapted from Giorgio Locatelli’s _Made in Sicily__Serves_: 4-6
_500g (1 generous lb.) juicy, ripe plum or heirloom tomatoes __75g (1/2 cup) blanched almonds_ _1-2 cloves garlic, mashed or grated on a fine Microplane 40g (1 large handful) fresh mint leaves, shredded 50ml (scant 1/4 cup) olive oil salt and freshly-ground pepper, to tastepinch of sugar_
500g/1 lb. dried spaghetti Cut a shallow ‘X’ in the bottom of each tomato and place them in a deep heatproof bowl. Bring a kettle of water to a boil, then pour enough over tomatoes to submerge them all. Leave for 10-20 seconds, or until the skin at the cut part of the tomatoes starts to curl. Drain and fill the bowl with cold water. When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, peel off the skin. Cut them in half, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon, and dice the flesh. Sprinkle lightly with salt and let drain in a sieve while you prepare the other ingredients. Toast the almonds in a 350F/175C oven for 8-10 minutes, or until golden. Cool, then chop medium-fine. Combine the chopped almonds and tomatoes in a large serving bowl with the garlic, mint and oil, mashing the tomatoes slightly with the back of the spoon, and season to taste with more salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Let sit while you cook the pasta, or up to several hours. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti just until _al dente_. Drain it well, and immediately add to the bowl with the sauce, tossing to coat. Correct the seasoning if necessary, and serve. I don’t feel this needs any cheese, but Locatelli suggests that if you want some, dice some young pecorino and toss it in before serving. Posted on August 24, 2012June 17, 2014 by travelerslunchbox41 Comments
THE ANNA TASCA LANZA COOKING SCHOOLSo, Sicily.
As much as I loved Palermo,
I have to say it paled in comparison to the the five days I spent with the most incredible group of bloggers at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School . If the name Anna Tasca Lanza rings a bell for you, there’s a good reason. In her day, she was _the_ authority on Sicilian food—the Marcella Hazan of the south. Back in the late 80s and early 90s, before any kind of regional awareness had entered the Italian food lexicon in the US, she began writing about traditional Sicilian cooking for the American market. As people woke up to the bold, rustic flavors of the island, her fame spread, and she began regularly collaborating with such food luminaries as James Beard, Julia Child* and Alice Waters, and making frequent appearances on television and radio. She published two books of her own, and among the other numerous Sicilian cookbooks on my shelf, I doubt there is one that doesn’t mention her name. She also opened a cooking school on her family’s 19th-century estate, Regaleali. Located about halfway between Palermo and Agrigento in the mountainous Sicilian heartland, Regaleali has been in the Tasca family since 1830, when it was bought by Anna’s great-great-great grandfather, Count Lucio Tasca. It’s still very much a working farm; wine, olive oil, wheat, almonds, favas and citrus are grown on its 1,200 acres of softly rolling hills, and even today it represents one of the major sources of employment for people in this impoverished corner of the island. Over the years it has evolved, though, first with the establishment by Anna’s father of a state-of-the-art winery which now ranks among Sicily’s best, and later, when he divided up the estate among his children. His son inherited the ‘main house’ and winery, and his three daughters were given smaller houses and land around the property; Anna’s was a traditional farmhouse set around a cobbled courtyard, called _Case Vecchie_._
The estate is home to thousands of olive trees which produce a beautifully mellow, grassy oil the color of the afternoon sun. I think if I had an unlimited supply of oil like that, life would be prettymuch complete._
Anna and her husband had one daughter, Fabrizia. In her younger days Fabrizia was, by her own admission, interested in anything that _wasn’t_ Sicilian, and as soon as she was old enough moved north, where she established a career as an art historian and had two children of her own. When Anna launched herself into the culinary world, Fabrizia cheered her mother on from afar, at first. In her mid-40s, though, after suddenly finding herself out of a job, Fabrizia realized the not only was she deeply homesick for Sicily, but what she really wanted to do was dedicate her life to keeping traditional Sicilian cuisine alive too. _Cactus (aka prickly) pears grow everywhere in Sicily. They’re called __fichi d’India (Indian figs), and put into everything fromjam to ice cream._
_That little house among the trees is where we slept. Imagine waking up to this every morning…_ So Fabrizia moved back home and started working with Anna. Although she had previously never felt any particular affinity for cooking (“my affinity was for eating!” she told me), something about this food-centric life just felt right, like it was what she was really meant to be doing all along. It was only natural, then, that when Anna passed away two years ago, Fabrizia took over. She’s now an active ambassador for Sicilian cuisine in her own right, spending several months each year traveling, giving lectures and demonstrations, and cooking as a guest chef in well-known restaurants (she has regular gigs at Babbo and Chez Panisse, for instance). The rest of the year she spends at Regaleali, teaching cooking classes and tending to the estate and its endless harvests. And this year at least, entertainingfood bloggers.
_Fabrizia with her cousin Giuseppe, co-owner of the estate’s winery Tasca d’Almerita along with his brother Alberto. Can you see the family resemblance? It’s all in the hair._ _Due to the estate’s comparatively high elevation and clay-rich soil, the conditions are perfect for growing a variety of reds and whites. Although everything they grow is effectively organic, they reject labeling it as such. Guiseppe is actually very concerned about the environmental damage being caused by ‘organic’ wine production, in particular contamination caused by runoff of copper sulfate, which is used widely as a non-chemical fungicide. At Regaleali, by contrast, they take a biodynamic approach, and are constantly seeking new methods that allow them to grow as sustainablyas possible._
_Regaleali in spring: flowering almond trees, olive trees, vineyards and endless blue skies._ The thing that struck all of us, I mean apart from the sheer beauty of the place, was how we felt we were welcomed almost like members of the family. If you didn’t know they rank among Italy’s elite aristocratic families you certainly wouldn’t know it by meeting them; everyone we met was refreshingly humble and down-to-earth. Fabrizia, in particular—who, by the way, is also a _marchesa_ (marquess) like her mother—took us under her wing with such warmth and affection that we felt more like long-lost children home for a visit than a crew of camera-toting journalists. Of course it didn’t hurt that we were all in our favorite element, in the kitchen and around the table. The daily program went something like this: wake up, stuff ourselves with sesame-crusted semolina bread, fresh sheep’s milk ricotta and about a dozen flavors of Fabrizia’s homemade preserves as well as a cake or two that had magically appeared overnight. Set off on a little outing to visit a local producer, accompanied of course by copious tastings. Around noon gather back in the teaching kitchen for a hands-on demonstration of whatever local specialties were on the lunchtime menu, followed by a four-course communal lunch. Digest for a couple of hours. At five gather back in the kitchen for an aperitif, a new lesson and, at the end, another three or four course meal. Stagger to bed swearing we will be much more successful at curtailing our gluttony tomorrow. Wake up, conveniently forget all about the previous night’s promises because really, food this good doesn’t just fall onto your plate every day, and repeat._
The iconic pasta con le sarde, pasta with fresh sardines and wild fennel. Now I understand why they say you can’t make it without that fennel—its flavor is like fennel on steroids. In this part of Sicily it’s traditional to top the dish with a mixture of toasted breadcrumbs and sugar. The sweetness is a bit jarring at first bite, but it quickly becomes addictive._ But truly, I don’t know what was better: the food, with its gutsy, punchy, sweet and sharp edges and ingredients that tasted like concentrated versions of themselves, or the fact of having nothing better to do all day than hang out with a group of similarly food-obsessed people and, with minimal effort on your part, have a multi-course meal of said food land on your plate three times a day. Believe me, there was true panic in everyone’s eyes when someone voiced the fear we were all secretly harboring by the end of the week: “but how can we ever go back to our normal lives after _this_?” How, indeed? I’m still trying to figure it out, actually, but at least I have memories, and more importantly, recipes. For things like a lemon-almond pudding called _biancomangiare_ and sweet-sourartichoke caponata.
For fried fresh sardines drizzled with vinegar, and swordfish studded with mint, garlic and rosemary before being gently baked in wine. For pillows of pasta stuffed with mint-flecked ricotta and drizzled with sage-almond pesto. And for shatteringly crisp panelle, the secret to which is spreading the mixture as thinly as possible on plates, then letting them cool byan open window.
And for sweet, tender lamb stewed in the estate’s own red wine, and ricotta-filled cassata ringed with pistachio marzipan, and an emerald stew of fresh fava beans, and crunchy-creamy candied-orange-crowned cannoli, and little pillows of ricotta gnocchi drizzled in sage-infused butter, and artichokes stuffed with pine nuts and currants, and sweet-sour braised rabbit, and pillow-soft, olive-studded focaccia… It’s a good thing Fabrizia’s first book is coming out later this year. Otherwise I’d have to share all these recipes here, because really, they’re that good. Oh but don’t worry, of course I’ll give you one or two to tide you over in the meantime! _*Speaking of Julia Child, we heard a funny anecdote. Various members of Fabrizia’s family were always stopping by, including one of her maternal aunts, who joined us for dinner a couple of times. On one of these nights she told us about how she used to sometimes accompany Anna, her sister, on her ambassadorial trips to the US, and once they were invited to dinner by Julia Child and her husband Paul. “The were lovely people,” she told us, “and made us feel right at home.” “But how was the __food?” I asked her, dying of curiosity. She wrinkled her nose slightly. “Oh, it was nothing special. I remember Julia made us a pumpkin soup. It wasn’t bad, but my own recipe is much better.”_ Posted on April 24, 2012June 22, 2014 by travelerslunchbox27 Comments
SPRINGTIME IN SICILY Let me offer you a piece of advice. Should you ever find yourself, on a particularly dark winter day, opening your inbox to find an email inviting you to spend a week in Sicily in early spring, here’s a few things you shouldn’t do. _Don’t_ stop to think about your schedule, or how any number of things might come up in your life between now and then to prevent you from going. _Don’t_ start looking at your travel options yet, which on first glance always appear to be more convoluted and/or expensive than they will actually turn out to be. _Don’t_ start wondering if your family will ever speak to you again when you announce you’re abandoning them to their frigid northern fates while you jet off for a romp in the Mediterranean sun. _Don’t_ hesitate even for a minute, just hit the reply button and type the biggest ‘YES!’ your sense of propriety and font options will allow, and hit send. There’s plenty of time for worrying about the rest later, and no matter what that rest might be, I promise it’ll pale in comparison to everything Sicily has in store for you when you get there. Like almond trees in bloom, and fragrant, purple bushes of wildrosemary.
And citrus trees, their branches buckling under the weight of more blood oranges, mandarins, lemons and citrons than you could consume ina lifetime.
And Palermo, a city you’ve always wanted to visit, which turns out to be full of chaotic energy and surprising elegance… …and awe-inspiring baroque, moorish and modern façades that transport you, as you walk down a single city block, through centuries of the island’s tumultuous history… …and vivid, bustling street markets teem with edible treasures the likes of which you’ve never before seen, from the tiniestartichokes…
…to the biggest cauliflower (called, confusingly, _broccolo_, and the size of a basketball)… …and whose streets offer some of finest edible temptations on offer anywhere in the world: _gelato in brioche_ (flavored with _pistacchi di Bronte_, the Lamborghinis of the pistachio world)… …_arancine_ (risotto balls stuffed with ragù and fried, and when they’re as big as this one—the size of a grapefruit!—offer an entire meal in a convenient package), and the famous seven-layer chocolate and hazelnut cake called _setteveli_… _…pane con panelle_,
thin, crunchy chickpea-flour fritters stuffed into a soft sesameroll…
…and _sfincione_, Sicily’s soft, spongy answer to pizza. And then there’s some of the most varied and beautiful landscapes you’ve ever seen, emerald green from spring rains and dotted with craggy, snow-covered peaks. At times you could almost be forgiven for thinking you’d taken a wrong turn, and ended up in the Scottish Highlands, or the Swiss Alps. But then you round another corner, and there’s no mistaking whereyou are.
And best of all, there’s the whole reason you came to Sicily in the first place: to spend one of the most magical weeks of your life in the company of this magnificent woman and these extraordinary , hilarious, dazzlingly
talented
people
, learning, laughing, cooking, andabove all EATING.
I’ll tell you all about it next time. p.s. My time in Palermo was frustratingly short, but the suggestions I was armed with thanks to these brilliantladies
(who have, I was happy to discover, impeccable taste) helped me make the most of every second. Next time I go I’ll definitely be following more of their advice. Posted on March 31, 2012June 22, 2014by
travelerslunchbox
27 Comments
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