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The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
DESIGNING A HOME TRAINING WALL by Mark Anderson A home climbing wall offers many advantages to the performance-oriented climber. Chief among them are: Convenience – with a wall literally in your backyard, commuting time and cost is eliminated along with most other excuses for skipping workouts. Those with families or pets can train with their loved ones without disturbing others, andCLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
DESIGNING A HOME TRAINING WALL by Mark Anderson A home climbing wall offers many advantages to the performance-oriented climber. Chief among them are: Convenience – with a wall literally in your backyard, commuting time and cost is eliminated along with most other excuses for skipping workouts. Those with families or pets can train with their loved ones without disturbing others, andCLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
STRENGTH | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL Every climber could use greater strength. Finger strength in particular can overcome many other weaknesses. While technical skill plays a tremendous role in every climber’s career, those that continue to improve will inevitably reach the point where finger strength is a weak link, if not the limiting factor. While some routes can be finessed, there BUILDING A TRAINING PLAN The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! To truly benefit from the Rock Prodigy training method, the many exercises shown on RCTM.com should be combined into a comprehensive, integrated program, executed on a daily basis. Your training plan should describe specifically which exercises to perform on each day ofthe season,
HANGBOARD FAQ #0: WHAT IS A BASIC HANGBOARD ROUTINE? The ‘Rockprodigy’ routine calls for 7 reps in set #1, 6 in set #2 and 5 in set #3. Rest 2-4 minutes between each set in the workout (I recommend 3 minutes). Complete all three sets of one exercise before moving to the next exercise. A repetition is a dead-hang of a relatively short, timed duration, followed by a brief, timed restperiod.
HOW’S YOUR HANG?
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available! Order your signed copy HERE We get a lot of comments from folks that they would love to use the Rock Prodigy training method, but they can’t because they don’t have access to the right tools; primarily a hangboard and FUNCTIONAL CORE TRAINING Before discussing the exercises, it’s helpful to consider the role of the “core” in climbing. The core generally refers to any and all of the muscles surrounding the torso, including the abdominals, obliques, muscles of the back, and perhaps some of the muscles in that region that activate the extremities, such as the iliopsoas (aka“hip flexors”).
MIKE ANDERSON
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! I live in the United States with my wife Janelle and boys Lucas (10) and Axel (6). I've been a dedicated climber since the early 1990’s. I acquired my first hangboard in 1997 as an occasional 5.11 redpointer and immediately began researching and experimenting SPICE UP YOUR ARC ROUTINE "ARC" is short for Aerobic Restoration & Capillarity training. This training method was first described in the legendary Performance Rock Climbing. If you are unfamiliar with ARC training, you can get the rundown here. Many climbing periodization plans call for massive amounts of this training; as much as 90+ minutes per workout, withseveral workouts
ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Recently we developed the all-new Rock Prodigy Forge, (see this post to understand how awesome it is: The World’s Most Technologically Advanced Finger Training System – The Forge) This hangboard is super-kick-ass, but it’s a little shorter than the RPTC, so I wasn’t sure my “Adjustable Mount 2.0” would fit on it.Therefore, I had the motivation to finally try an idea I’d had for ADJUSTABLE MOUNT 2.0 FOR THE ROCK PRODIGY TRAINING CENTER In a previous article, we showed you how to build an Adjustable Mount for your Rock Prodigy Training Center so that you can take maximum advantage of the built in ergonomics of the most innovative fingerboard on the market. While it gets the job done, the French Cleat technique described in that article is difficult to execute, and the result is bulky. THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
HANGBOARD FAQ #0: WHAT IS A BASIC HANGBOARD ROUTINE? The ‘Rockprodigy’ routine calls for 7 reps in set #1, 6 in set #2 and 5 in set #3. Rest 2-4 minutes between each set in the workout (I recommend 3 minutes). Complete all three sets of one exercise before moving to the next exercise. A repetition is a dead-hang of a relatively short, timed duration, followed by a brief, timed restperiod.
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
HANGBOARD FAQ #0: WHAT IS A BASIC HANGBOARD ROUTINE? The ‘Rockprodigy’ routine calls for 7 reps in set #1, 6 in set #2 and 5 in set #3. Rest 2-4 minutes between each set in the workout (I recommend 3 minutes). Complete all three sets of one exercise before moving to the next exercise. A repetition is a dead-hang of a relatively short, timed duration, followed by a brief, timed restperiod.
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
STRENGTH | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL Every climber could use greater strength. Finger strength in particular can overcome many other weaknesses. While technical skill plays a tremendous role in every climber’s career, those that continue to improve will inevitably reach the point where finger strength is a weak link, if not the limiting factor. While some routes can be finessed, therePOWER ENDURANCE
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is now available order yours here! Often, a crag’s most striking lines – the “dream routes” – require completing numerous difficult moves without rest. This “power-endurance” can be developed with the right training. Paul Nelson climbs 8 Ball (5.12d) at the RRG, KY. ©Janelle Anderson. HANGBOARD FAQ #0: WHAT IS A BASIC HANGBOARD ROUTINE? The ‘Rockprodigy’ routine calls for 7 reps in set #1, 6 in set #2 and 5 in set #3. Rest 2-4 minutes between each set in the workout (I recommend 3 minutes). Complete all three sets of one exercise before moving to the next exercise. A repetition is a dead-hang of a relatively short, timed duration, followed by a brief, timed restperiod.
MIKE ANDERSON
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! I live in the United States with my wife Janelle and boys Lucas (10) and Axel (6). I've been a dedicated climber since the early 1990’s. I acquired my first hangboard in 1997 as an occasional 5.11 redpointer and immediately began researching and experimentingHOW’S YOUR HANG?
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available! Order your signed copy HERE We get a lot of comments from folks that they would love to use the Rock Prodigy training method, but they can’t because they don’t have access to the right tools; primarily a hangboard and TIPS FOR EFFECTIVE CAMPUSING PART 1: THE BASICS Campusing is one of the best training activities for climbers who are looking to improve explosive power and contact strength (detailed rundown on these terms here). However, campusing is one of the most difficult training activities to perform well. Many would-be campusers struggle during the initial stages of learning to use this tool, they become frustrated, and so SPICE UP YOUR ARC ROUTINE "ARC" is short for Aerobic Restoration & Capillarity training. This training method was first described in the legendary Performance Rock Climbing. If you are unfamiliar with ARC training, you can get the rundown here. Many climbing periodization plans call for massive amounts of this training; as much as 90+ minutes per workout, withseveral workouts
ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Recently we developed the all-new Rock Prodigy Forge, (see this post to understand how awesome it is: The World’s Most Technologically Advanced Finger Training System – The Forge) This hangboard is super-kick-ass, but it’s a little shorter than the RPTC, so I wasn’t sure my “Adjustable Mount 2.0” would fit on it.Therefore, I had the motivation to finally try an idea I’d had for DESIGNING A HOME TRAINING WALL by Mark Anderson A home climbing wall offers many advantages to the performance-oriented climber. Chief among them are: Convenience – with a wall literally in your backyard, commuting time and cost is eliminated along with most other excuses for skipping workouts. Those with families or pets can train with their loved ones without disturbing others, and THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
HANGBOARD FAQ #0: WHAT IS A BASIC HANGBOARD ROUTINE? The ‘Rockprodigy’ routine calls for 7 reps in set #1, 6 in set #2 and 5 in set #3. Rest 2-4 minutes between each set in the workout (I recommend 3 minutes). Complete all three sets of one exercise before moving to the next exercise. A repetition is a dead-hang of a relatively short, timed duration, followed by a brief, timed restperiod.
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
HANGBOARD FAQ #0: WHAT IS A BASIC HANGBOARD ROUTINE? The ‘Rockprodigy’ routine calls for 7 reps in set #1, 6 in set #2 and 5 in set #3. Rest 2-4 minutes between each set in the workout (I recommend 3 minutes). Complete all three sets of one exercise before moving to the next exercise. A repetition is a dead-hang of a relatively short, timed duration, followed by a brief, timed restperiod.
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
STRENGTH | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL Every climber could use greater strength. Finger strength in particular can overcome many other weaknesses. While technical skill plays a tremendous role in every climber’s career, those that continue to improve will inevitably reach the point where finger strength is a weak link, if not the limiting factor. While some routes can be finessed, therePOWER ENDURANCE
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is now available order yours here! Often, a crag’s most striking lines – the “dream routes” – require completing numerous difficult moves without rest. This “power-endurance” can be developed with the right training. Paul Nelson climbs 8 Ball (5.12d) at the RRG, KY. ©Janelle Anderson. HANGBOARD FAQ #0: WHAT IS A BASIC HANGBOARD ROUTINE? The ‘Rockprodigy’ routine calls for 7 reps in set #1, 6 in set #2 and 5 in set #3. Rest 2-4 minutes between each set in the workout (I recommend 3 minutes). Complete all three sets of one exercise before moving to the next exercise. A repetition is a dead-hang of a relatively short, timed duration, followed by a brief, timed restperiod.
MIKE ANDERSON
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! I live in the United States with my wife Janelle and boys Lucas (10) and Axel (6). I've been a dedicated climber since the early 1990’s. I acquired my first hangboard in 1997 as an occasional 5.11 redpointer and immediately began researching and experimentingHOW’S YOUR HANG?
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available! Order your signed copy HERE We get a lot of comments from folks that they would love to use the Rock Prodigy training method, but they can’t because they don’t have access to the right tools; primarily a hangboard and TIPS FOR EFFECTIVE CAMPUSING PART 1: THE BASICS Campusing is one of the best training activities for climbers who are looking to improve explosive power and contact strength (detailed rundown on these terms here). However, campusing is one of the most difficult training activities to perform well. Many would-be campusers struggle during the initial stages of learning to use this tool, they become frustrated, and so SPICE UP YOUR ARC ROUTINE "ARC" is short for Aerobic Restoration & Capillarity training. This training method was first described in the legendary Performance Rock Climbing. If you are unfamiliar with ARC training, you can get the rundown here. Many climbing periodization plans call for massive amounts of this training; as much as 90+ minutes per workout, withseveral workouts
ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Recently we developed the all-new Rock Prodigy Forge, (see this post to understand how awesome it is: The World’s Most Technologically Advanced Finger Training System – The Forge) This hangboard is super-kick-ass, but it’s a little shorter than the RPTC, so I wasn’t sure my “Adjustable Mount 2.0” would fit on it.Therefore, I had the motivation to finally try an idea I’d had for DESIGNING A HOME TRAINING WALL by Mark Anderson A home climbing wall offers many advantages to the performance-oriented climber. Chief among them are: Convenience – with a wall literally in your backyard, commuting time and cost is eliminated along with most other excuses for skipping workouts. Those with families or pets can train with their loved ones without disturbing others, and THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and BUILDING A TRAINING PLAN The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! To truly benefit from the Rock Prodigy training method, the many exercises shown on RCTM.com should be combined into a comprehensive, integrated program, executed on a daily basis. Your training plan should describe specifically which exercises to perform on each day ofthe season,
CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUALROCK CLIMBING TRAINING MANUALROCK PRODIGY TRAININGROCK CLIMBERS TRAINING MANUAL FORUMROCK CLIMBING TRAINING PROGRAMPRODIGY SOCCER TRAININGPRODIGY TRAININGACADEMY
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and BUILDING A TRAINING PLAN The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! To truly benefit from the Rock Prodigy training method, the many exercises shown on RCTM.com should be combined into a comprehensive, integrated program, executed on a daily basis. Your training plan should describe specifically which exercises to perform on each day ofthe season,
CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUALROCK CLIMBING TRAINING MANUALROCK PRODIGY TRAININGROCK CLIMBERS TRAINING MANUAL FORUMROCK CLIMBING TRAINING PROGRAMPRODIGY SOCCER TRAININGPRODIGY TRAININGACADEMY
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and MOTIVATION | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Get psyched! Click here for motivational videos: VIDEOS Click here for motivational tales and other spray: TALES RCTM.com Articles related to Motivation: Recommended Reading - Revelations by Jerry Moffatt If you don't already have it, I highly recommend asking Santa for a copy ofJerry Moffatt's
POWER ENDURANCE
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is now available order yours here! Often, a crag’s most striking lines – the “dream routes” – require completing numerous difficult moves without rest. This “power-endurance” can be developed with the right training. Paul Nelson climbs 8 Ball (5.12d) at the RRG, KY. ©Janelle Anderson. HOW TO BECOME AN EXPERT CLIMBER IN FIVE SIMPLE LESSONS Our pre-conceived notions of what is “Humanly Possible” are often incredibly incorrect. “Talent”, or lack thereof, is far less important in developing expertise than most believe. All it takes to become an expert is drive, determination, and the right kind of practice. These are incredibly inspiring insights, and rightly so. FUNCTIONAL CORE TRAINING (*the changing parameter is shown in blue text) Both height and base starting position can be gradually adjusted as you progress. My recommendation is to begin from the knees, with knees plumb to the rings (i.e., knees directly below the point where the rings are mounted), and gradually lower the ring height until they are just above the ground, then gradually move the base starting position HOW TO BECOME AN EXPERT CLIMBER IN FIVE SIMPLE LESSONS By Mark Anderson Lesson 2: (Almost) Anyone Can Become an Expert Climber When we ended Lesson 1, we were pondering the main theme of Anders Ericsson’s excellent new book Peak: There are no limits*, it’s never too late to start*; You can be anything you want to be* (with the right kind of practice) EricssonMIKE ANDERSON
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! I live in the United States with my wife Janelle and boys Lucas (10) and Axel (6). I've been a dedicated climber since the early 1990’s. I acquired my first hangboard in 1997 as an occasional 5.11 redpointer and immediately began researching and experimenting DESIGNING A HOME TRAINING WALL by Mark Anderson A home climbing wall offers many advantages to the performance-oriented climber. Chief among them are: Convenience – with a wall literally in your backyard, commuting time and cost is eliminated along with most other excuses for skipping workouts. Those with families or pets can train with their loved ones without disturbing others, and COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks TRAINING TAKEOVER: 8-WEEKS TO ROCK PRODIGY STATUS The Details. This program consists of 4 training “Phases,” followed by an on-the-rock “Performance Phase.”. The training phases are: Base Fitness – 1 Week. Strength – 3 Weeks. Power – 2 Weeks. Power Endurance – 2 Weeks. During the 4 training phases, you will perform the following training activities, some of which you mayhave
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and BUILDING A TRAINING PLAN The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! To truly benefit from the Rock Prodigy training method, the many exercises shown on RCTM.com should be combined into a comprehensive, integrated program, executed on a daily basis. Your training plan should describe specifically which exercises to perform on each day ofthe season,
CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUALROCK CLIMBING TRAINING MANUALROCK PRODIGY TRAININGROCK CLIMBERS TRAINING MANUAL FORUMROCK CLIMBING TRAINING PROGRAMPRODIGY SOCCER TRAININGPRODIGY TRAININGACADEMY
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and BUILDING A TRAINING PLAN The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! To truly benefit from the Rock Prodigy training method, the many exercises shown on RCTM.com should be combined into a comprehensive, integrated program, executed on a daily basis. Your training plan should describe specifically which exercises to perform on each day ofthe season,
CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUALROCK CLIMBING TRAINING MANUALROCK PRODIGY TRAININGROCK CLIMBERS TRAINING MANUAL FORUMROCK CLIMBING TRAINING PROGRAMPRODIGY SOCCER TRAININGPRODIGY TRAININGACADEMY
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
The first crag we visited, and the one I expected to be the best, is called St. Leger. It’s a fairly long limestone gorge at the very base of the north slope of Mt. Ventoux. Mt. Ventoux, aka “the Giant of Provence”, is a legendary peak for cycling nerds like me. Fans of the Tour de France will recall many famous ascents of Ventoux CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Adjustable Hangboard Mount (3.0) – Easiest yet! Rock Prodigy Training Center and Rock Prodigy Forge hangboards are revolutionary tools for developing elite finger strength. The split board design allows you to customize it to fit your body, improving the ergonomics, making it safer to train hard, and really boost your finger strength!To
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and MOTIVATION | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Get psyched! Click here for motivational videos: VIDEOS Click here for motivational tales and other spray: TALES RCTM.com Articles related to Motivation: Recommended Reading - Revelations by Jerry Moffatt If you don't already have it, I highly recommend asking Santa for a copy ofJerry Moffatt's
POWER ENDURANCE
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is now available order yours here! Often, a crag’s most striking lines – the “dream routes” – require completing numerous difficult moves without rest. This “power-endurance” can be developed with the right training. Paul Nelson climbs 8 Ball (5.12d) at the RRG, KY. ©Janelle Anderson. HOW TO BECOME AN EXPERT CLIMBER IN FIVE SIMPLE LESSONS Our pre-conceived notions of what is “Humanly Possible” are often incredibly incorrect. “Talent”, or lack thereof, is far less important in developing expertise than most believe. All it takes to become an expert is drive, determination, and the right kind of practice. These are incredibly inspiring insights, and rightly so. FUNCTIONAL CORE TRAINING (*the changing parameter is shown in blue text) Both height and base starting position can be gradually adjusted as you progress. My recommendation is to begin from the knees, with knees plumb to the rings (i.e., knees directly below the point where the rings are mounted), and gradually lower the ring height until they are just above the ground, then gradually move the base starting position HOW TO BECOME AN EXPERT CLIMBER IN FIVE SIMPLE LESSONS By Mark Anderson Lesson 2: (Almost) Anyone Can Become an Expert Climber When we ended Lesson 1, we were pondering the main theme of Anders Ericsson’s excellent new book Peak: There are no limits*, it’s never too late to start*; You can be anything you want to be* (with the right kind of practice) EricssonMIKE ANDERSON
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! I live in the United States with my wife Janelle and boys Lucas (10) and Axel (6). I've been a dedicated climber since the early 1990’s. I acquired my first hangboard in 1997 as an occasional 5.11 redpointer and immediately began researching and experimenting DESIGNING A HOME TRAINING WALL by Mark Anderson A home climbing wall offers many advantages to the performance-oriented climber. Chief among them are: Convenience – with a wall literally in your backyard, commuting time and cost is eliminated along with most other excuses for skipping workouts. Those with families or pets can train with their loved ones without disturbing others, and COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Lazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). [Side note: Those who live in the Denver area are well-aware that a new, world-class Earth Treks TRAINING TAKEOVER: 8-WEEKS TO ROCK PRODIGY STATUS The Details. This program consists of 4 training “Phases,” followed by an on-the-rock “Performance Phase.”. The training phases are: Base Fitness – 1 Week. Strength – 3 Weeks. Power – 2 Weeks. Power Endurance – 2 Weeks. During the 4 training phases, you will perform the following training activities, some of which you mayhave
THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and BUILDING A TRAINING PLAN The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! To truly benefit from the Rock Prodigy training method, the many exercises shown on RCTM.com should be combined into a comprehensive, integrated program, executed on a daily basis. Your training plan should describe specifically which exercises to perform on each day ofthe season,
CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUALROCK CLIMBING TRAINING MANUALROCK PRODIGY TRAININGROCK CLIMBERS TRAINING MANUAL FORUMROCK CLIMBING TRAINING PROGRAMPRODIGY SOCCER TRAININGPRODIGY TRAININGACADEMY
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
by Mark Anderson My family and I just returned from a two-week trip to France and Italy. In addition to sightseeing and eating (my favorite pastime), we visited four distinct climbing areas in Southern France and the Italian Riviera. All of these crags are relatively unknown to Americans, but would be renowned destinations if they ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Recently we developed the all-new Rock Prodigy Forge, (see this post to understand how awesome it is: The World’s Most Technologically Advanced Finger Training System – The Forge) This hangboard is super-kick-ass, but it’s a little shorter than the RPTC, so I wasn’t sure my “Adjustable Mount 2.0” would fit on it.Therefore, I had the motivation to finally try an idea I’d had for CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body is THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Welcome to the Rock Climber's Training Manual.com! The Rock Climber's Training Manual is an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we'll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you toparticipate in the
FREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and BUILDING A TRAINING PLAN The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! To truly benefit from the Rock Prodigy training method, the many exercises shown on RCTM.com should be combined into a comprehensive, integrated program, executed on a daily basis. Your training plan should describe specifically which exercises to perform on each day ofthe season,
CAMPUS TRAINING PART 3: BASIC ROUTINE This is part 3 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven't read Part 1 and Part 2, please do. This training is for the thoroughly healthy. If you have any nagging injuries, particularly finger, elbow or shoulder injuries, DO NOT DO THIS! There are many different ways to use a campus board; FORUM | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUALROCK CLIMBING TRAINING MANUALROCK PRODIGY TRAININGROCK CLIMBERS TRAINING MANUAL FORUMROCK CLIMBING TRAINING PROGRAMPRODIGY SOCCER TRAININGPRODIGY TRAININGACADEMY
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Click here to visit the RCTM.com forum and join in the conversation! You will be redirected to another site, but you can return any time. TRAINING EFFICIENTLY by Mark Anderson I think if people realized how little I train (and climb) they would be shocked. I often joke with my wife that I should be quarranteened in a plastic bubble and studied by teams of cruel government scientists (ala E.T.). There is certainly a trend among top climbers to perform massive quantities HOW TO BUILD A CAMPUS BOARD Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as describedin the Rock
CLIMBING IN FRANCE
by Mark Anderson My family and I just returned from a two-week trip to France and Italy. In addition to sightseeing and eating (my favorite pastime), we visited four distinct climbing areas in Southern France and the Italian Riviera. All of these crags are relatively unknown to Americans, but would be renowned destinations if they ADJUSTABLE HANGBOARD MOUNT (3.0) Recently we developed the all-new Rock Prodigy Forge, (see this post to understand how awesome it is: The World’s Most Technologically Advanced Finger Training System – The Forge) This hangboard is super-kick-ass, but it’s a little shorter than the RPTC, so I wasn’t sure my “Adjustable Mount 2.0” would fit on it.Therefore, I had the motivation to finally try an idea I’d had for CONTACT STRENGTH, MAX RECRUITMENT, & POWER TRAINING 'Contact Strength', 'Max Recruitment' and 'Power' are terms used often by climbers in training, but their actual meanings and inter-relationships can be somewhat ambiguous. As the first in a mult-part series on the subjuect, this post will attempt to clarify these terms and explain precisely what they mean for Performance Climbers. Each muscle in the body isFREE DOWNLOADS
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Training Program--this 20-slide presentation gives a brief overview of the Rock Prodigy Program: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF Free Topos: Gaudi Wall Topo Super Slab Topo Editable Training Calenders for Microsoft Excel -- use this to plan and MOTIVATION | THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAINING MANUAL The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Get psyched! Click here for motivational videos: VIDEOS Click here for motivational tales and other spray: TALES RCTM.com Articles related to Motivation: Recommended Reading - Revelations by Jerry Moffatt If you don't already have it, I highly recommend asking Santa for a copy ofJerry Moffatt's
POWER ENDURANCE
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! Strong, powerful muscles and expert technique will only get a climber so far. Eventually a dream route will come along that demands the ability to string together a series of difficult moves in order to HOW TO BECOME AN EXPERT CLIMBER IN FIVE SIMPLE LESSONS By Mark Anderson Lesson 1: Anyone Can Be An Expert in Anything* I recently finished reading Peak: Secrets From The New Science of Expertise, by renowned researcher Anders Ericsson (and Robert Pool). Those familiar with The Rock Climber’s Training Manual (RCTM) will recognize Ericsson’s name from our chapter on Skill Development. Ericsson is well-known as FUNCTIONAL CORE TRAINING (*the changing parameter is shown in blue text) Both height and base starting position can be gradually adjusted as you progress. My recommendation is to begin from the knees, with knees plumb to the rings (i.e., knees directly below the point where the rings are mounted), and gradually lower the ring height until they are just above the ground, then gradually move the base starting positionMIKE ANDERSON
The Rock Climber's Training Manual is now available order yours here! I live in the United States with my wife Janelle and boys Lucas (10) and Axel (6). I've been a dedicated climber since the early 1990’s. I acquired my first hangboard in 1997 as an occasional 5.11 redpointer and immediately began researching and experimenting HOW TO BECOME AN EXPERT CLIMBER IN FIVE SIMPLE LESSONS By Mark Anderson Lesson 2: (Almost) Anyone Can Become an Expert Climber When we ended Lesson 1, we were pondering the main theme of Anders Ericsson’s excellent new book Peak: There are no limits*, it’s never too late to start*; You can be anything you want to be* (with the right kind of practice) Ericsson DESIGNING A HOME TRAINING WALL by Mark Anderson A home climbing wall offers many advantages to the performance-oriented climber. Chief among them are: Convenience – with a wall literally in your backyard, commuting time and cost is eliminated along with most other excuses for skipping workouts. Those with families or pets can train with their loved ones without disturbing others, and COMPARING CAMPUS BOARD CONFIGURATIONS Additionally, over the past year or so I’ve been contemplating the two competing standards for rung spacing. These are ‘Metolius spacing’, with small rungs placed every 4″ from top edge to top edge, and ‘Moon Spacing’, with rungs spaced every 22-cm (approximately 8.66 inches). TRAINING TAKEOVER: 8-WEEKS TO ROCK PRODIGY STATUS Last night, the Rock Prodigy Training crew of Mark, Mike and Janelle Anderson stormed the Trango Social Media Headquarters and took the Trango Instagram hostage! Our plan is simple: over the next 10 days we will lay out a completely free, 8-week Introductory Training Program that will get YOU crushing at a whole new level THE ROCK CLIMBER'S TRAININGMANUAL
A COMPREHENSIVE PROGRAM FOR CONTINUOUS CLIMBING IMPROVEMENTMENU
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The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is now available order yourshere!
WELCOME
TO THE ROCK CLIMBER’S TRAINING MANUAL.COM! The Rock Climber’s Training Manualis
an all-new, comprehensive guide to continuous climbing improvement. On this site, we’ll provide expanded multi-media content that enhances the book. This is also a venue for you to participate in the conversation by offering questions, suggestions, testimonials and by providing your own content. The Rock Climber’s Training Manual describes a training method that has become known as “The Rock Prodigy Method”. This method was originally developed by Mike Anderson in the late 1990s, based on _Udo Neumann _and _Dale Goddard’s_ book Performance Rock Climbing and Petro and Yaniro’s training video Fingers of Steel.
Since that time, the program has evolved substantially to incorporate advances in sport science, personal experimentation, years of experience, and to broaden the applicability to climbers in different stages of development. The Rock Prodigy training method is a form of periodization —- a strategy for physical training in which exercises are carefully varied to avoid plateaus and create synergies that result in a performance peak at a predictable time. Climbing requires diverse fitness. For example, power to execute extremely difficult single moves, along with endurance to sustain such moves. Through careful timing, the periodization of the Rock Prodigy method enables climbers to simultaneously develop a high level of each aspect of fitness. The combined effect is the performance peak: a temporary, but significant boost in climbing fitness that will enable the climber to attain never-before-seen levels of performance (read more on the Building aTraining Plan
page).
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual and RCTM.com are about more than just training. While preparation is essential, climbing is a performance sport. At the end of the day, what matters most is that you achieve improved performance on the rock. These resources will help you learn how to select inspiring goals, how to tailor your preparation accordingly, and how to maximize your performance on the sharp end, so you can make your climbing dreams a reality. For more information about the Rock Prodigy Training Program, download this free PDF: Introduction to the Rock Prodigy Program PDF.
Get started today on your own personal path to continuous climbing improvement by using the drop-down menus to navigate through the site,as shown here:
These topics reflect those presented in the book, but each page on the site contains several additional articles on training for climbing that are related to that topic. An index of all of the site’s articles can be found on the Articlespage.
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32 THOUGHTS ON “HOME”*
korak sanyal says:
April 4, 2014 at 8:50 am hey i am from India, will the book be available to flipkart or will there be any possibilities to purchase an e book copyLike
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monomaniac29 says:
April 4, 2014 at 10:04 amKorak,
International distribution is still in-work, so I don;t know where it will be available yet. Wehn we have information on international distribution we will post an announcement. At this time there is no plan to create an e-book.Thanks,
Mark
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Leslie says:
April 13, 2014 at 11:30 amHi Mark,
I just received your training book and I’m starting to put together my plan for the year. I have climbed probably 10 or so 12a/b’s in the past two years but decided to ski rather than train for climbing this winter. Now I’m struggling on easy 5.11. When picking appropriate workouts (hangboard, etc) would you advise going for the beginner workouts or intermediate first? Or starting w the beginner workouts and then transitioning to intermediate? Thanks so much, I’m excited to get started!Leslie
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monomaniac29 says:
April 13, 2014 at 12:09 pmLeslie,
It sounds like you are probably ready for the Intermediate Hangboard workout. As for the other routines, it really depends on your experience level with those exercises. If you’ve never campused before, start with the Beginner routine and stick with it until you can do all the exercises, then transition to the Intermediate routine.Mark
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Martyn says:
July 21, 2014 at 3:27 amHi Mark,
Just recieved your book here in the uk and havent had the chance to get round to fully reading it but from what i have scanned it looks very helpful not only for my own climbing but helping with my personal coachin of other climbers. Also would like to say thanks for the note inside it was a nice touch. My question is i dont really have a suitable place to hang my fingerboard due to not owning my own house and my climbing wall doesnt have one in place, what is the best way to be able to set one up? thanks again for a great manualMartyn
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monomaniac29 says:
July 21, 2014 at 7:04 am Thanks Martyn! Check out our blog post “How’s Your Hang” for some ideas on temporary hangboard installations. There’s also a company called “Blankslate” that sells a removable hangboardmount. Good luck,
Mark
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austin says:
September 14, 2014 at 12:27 am Hey guys the book is great! I am just about to dive into the training with a bouldering specific calendar, and was just wondering if outdoor mileage would just be suplemented with more ARC training because I don’t have any outdoor climbing near me. So all my outdoor climbingare trips.
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monomaniac29 says:
September 14, 2014 at 8:04 amYes, OM = ARC
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Steffen Hessing says: May 19, 2015 at 8:22 amHello,
I’d like to get a copy of your book, but living in Germany (right in the middle of the frankenjura), the shipping costs are pretty high. Is it possible to get your book as an eBook, or do you know a shop in europe that sells it online?Cheers, Steffen
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monomaniac29 says:
May 19, 2015 at 7:46 pm There is no e-Book. I’m told there is a gym in the Netherlands that will ship the book. If you search around our forum you can find the details. Also Amazon.UK has copies occasionally.Like
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Beguin Olivier says: December 25, 2015 at 6:36 am Is there a French translation of the manual ?Like
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monomaniac29 says:
January 9, 2016 at 1:38 pmUnfortunately, no.
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mocfilm says:
September 21, 2017 at 1:32 am I am a French English teacher, I would love to translate your book if you are interested, let me know!Like
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olivierbeguin
says:
November 9, 2017 at 6:44 amBonjour mocfilm.
Merci pour votre réponse. Je ne connais pas du tout le procédé de ce service. Il y a t il un prix au mot å la page au livre? Je serais intéressé de savoir le prix de la traduction . Merci cordialement olivierLike
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olivierbeguin
says:
April 2, 2018 at 12:33 pm Ça marche interresse. Je vous laisse mon mail pour échanger librement. O.beguin04@gmail.comLike
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Colin says:
December 28, 2015 at 9:36 am hi are there any distributors of your book in Singapore or Malaysia?Like
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rockprodigy13 says: December 28, 2015 at 4:23 pm Colin, unfortunately, no the book is not distributed in Asia, but you can order it from our website.Like
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Fede says:
February 5, 2016 at 9:30 amDear Mark,
I am Fede, a spanish engineer and climber living in the UK. I think your book is a superb tool for any climber wanting to improve and I would like to offer myself to help with the translation to spanish in case you consider it any time. Thanks for your contribution to this world!Like
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renjithcj says:
March 8, 2016 at 12:22 amDear Mark,
I am Renjith from Kerala, India. A software engineer by profession. I am passionate about learning rock climbing, but not sure where to start. Please advice.Thanks,
Renjith C J
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monomaniac29 says:
March 9, 2016 at 6:11 pm I would recommend finding a qualified guide in your area to take you out for a day and see how you like. A good guide can also teach you some basic skills and help you get started on the right path.Good luck,
Mark
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Rowan Hill
says:
March 9, 2016 at 1:03 pmMike,
I was at turkey rocks the day you fell and broke your back (I drove your wife and kid to the hospital, send my regards). I didn’t really know about your climbing accomplishments or training contributions at the time, but have read up on it more recently and just ordered your book. It’s cool to see you are still climbing strong and thanks for all that you’ve done to help educate us lazy climbers on how to get better without just getting injured. I’m excited to start a more long-term approach to training with the help of your book.Thank you,
-Rowan
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rockprodigy13 says: March 13, 2016 at 8:16 pmRowan,
Thanks for the note, and thanks for your help that day! It was very frightening for me and my family, but I’ve turned it into a positive, and I’m climbing better than ever, and loving life!-Mike
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Rowan Hill
says:
March 22, 2016 at 4:23 pm I’ve started my ARC training, going well. I was wondering if you have a digital version of your training logs, it would really help me keep track of my seasons. You have shown excel data in the past and I was just wondering how you set it up.Thanks,
-Rowan
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monomaniac29 says:
March 25, 2016 at 4:50 pm We have a download-able Excel training calendar on our downloads page (hover over “Tools” in the menu bar). For the actual individual workout logs, we only have the hard-copy logbooks, but I’m sure you can recreate them fairly easily (they were created with Excel).Like
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Eric says:
September 6, 2016 at 6:41 am In Oslo, Norway we have a climbing-machine in our gym (http://www.climbstation.com) – Please have a look at their website. Do you think that this machine is good for ARCing? Thanks for your opinion on that! EricLike
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monomaniac29 says:
September 8, 2016 at 8:23 amEric,
We have similar devices over here (which is most commonly referred to as a “treadwall”). Treadwalls are great for ARC training!Mark
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Katie says:
October 15, 2016 at 1:38 pm Is this only available in a paperback, or is it available for lets say… Like a kindle or a pdf /document that it can be read on like atablet?
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monomaniac29 says:
October 17, 2016 at 1:33 pmKatie,
Paperback only.
Thanks,
Mark
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Paul says:
November 28, 2016 at 10:03 pm Just purchased your book and the Trango rock prodigy. Former 5.12+ climber starting over basically and living in North Idaho, not much chance to get outside and do routes for the first phase Basic Fitnessthis time of year.
Not having easy access to a gym, is there any way to replicate that phase either on the rock prodigy or with weights so I can best be prepared for the Strength phase? Book is amazing quality, it’s pretty inspiring to see cutting edge physiological science applied to climbing considering the lack of thesame 20 years ago.
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monomaniac29 says:
November 29, 2016 at 7:07 amWelcome back Paul!
It is possible to ARC on a hangboard. It’s not very fun, and you will miss out on the technical benefits, but its better than nothing. The best way to do it is to build a Kick Plate with small footholds below your hangboard. There is a photo of a kickplate and discussion in the book (I think Chapter 3, but I’m not sure).Like
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Evan Belknap says:
December 13, 2016 at 1:27 pmHey Mark,
I’ve gone through four cycles of training in the last year using the RP book. In ten years of mostly trad climbing, this was the first time that I took training seriously and gave it all I had. Before training, I would tick off low twelves pretty quick, project 12c (and one time I managed to send a 13a with a stupid amount of effort). After this year of training I climbed 25 5.12s, five 5.13s, including a 13a flash, two 13Bs, and I’m one move away from a 13c, all of which has totally blown my mind and made being a rock climber feel even more like having a super power. I owe a lot of that to you guys—so thank you! I’m about to start a new season of training (hopefully after I send Insider Trading in Socorro on Thursday (last try, I think)) and I had a couple questions. I’ve been listening to a lot of podcasts and reading a lot of other books about how to train (mostly about periodization vs not, max weights vs. the 7 second-3 second thing, one arm bent at 90 degrees vs. two arms extended, etc.) With all these smart folk saying different things, I don’t know whether to continue to the RP method exactly the same or whether certain elements have changed, while the greater idea stays the same?? Would it be worth it at this point for me to experiment with new things or should I keep at it, since it seems to be working. Also, on my last cycle, I got to +50lbs on my ring-middle hangs and, while I could do it, I felt tweaky for a couple weeks after the strength phase which prevented me from climbing for a couple weeks. Does that mean that it’s time to go to the smaller 2FP with less weight for this go around? Sorry, I know that’s a lot of questions that I’m sure you have already answered elsewhere. The training thing is still relatively new to me, and I want to do it right. Thanks!—Evan
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monomaniac29 says:
December 13, 2016 at 3:04 pmEvan,
Wow! Those are some impressive results! If I found a training program that produced such amazing results, I’d probably stick with it until it stopped working. But you make a great point, there are many sources of training advice and its hard to know what to believe. Personally, I recommend that you follow the results. Those who know their stuff are producing consistent results, either on themselves or on athletes they train exclusively. It really is that simple. Regarding the MR hangs, it sounds like you’re being a bit too aggressive with your progress if its forcing you to take time off. Try to limit the resistance to whatever you can handle “safely”. It may be a good time to down-size your MR grip, but it really depends more on the type of climbing you do. If your typical goal route involves 2-pad-deep pockets, then you should train on 2-pad-deeppockets, etc.
Mark
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