ROCK AND ICE MAGAZINE Rockandice.com is devoted to all things climbing, whatever your medium—rock, ice, snow or plastic—and style, from bouldering to sport climbing, from trad climbing to alpine and ice climbing. NOLAN SMYTHE, CLIMBER AND BASE JUMPER, DIES IN ACCIDENT ONAUTHOR: ROCK

AND ICE

On Friday, March 6, Nolan Smythe, a climber and BASE jumper based out of Moab, Utah, lost his life in an accident on the nearly 3,000-foot wall of El Gigante, near Basaseachic Falls National Park, Chihuahua, Mexico. Sasha DiGiulian broke the news on Saturday, March 7, via an Instagram post consisting of simple white text on a plain black background: “On Friday, March 6, one of our team THE DEATH COULOIR: MONT BLANC'S MOST DANGEROUS SECTION Mont Blanc rises to 4,809 meters and is the highest peak in the Alps. It is also one of the deadliest summits in the world. To reach the top, mountaineers climbing the Normal Route must go up the Couloir du Goûter. It was dubbed, not without cause, the Death Couloir.

THE POWER OF ONE

When a friend posted an offer on a community Facebook page to buy and deliver groceries for anyone in need during the current pandemic, Heather Ardley of Carbondale, Colorado, liked the idea so much she shared it herself.. Cristell Alvarez, age 2, a smiling recipient. Photo courtesy Alvarez family.

BOLT REPLACEMENT

“Roger Brown is the foremost expert on replacing bolts in granite.” —Ben Doyle, former Climbing Ranger, Yosemite National Park. In this short video from several years ago, longtime Yosemite climber and bolt replacement expert Roger Brown explains his process: his homemade tools, the steps he follows and the little tricks of the trade that go a long way toward making Yosemite’s walls

THE GOLDEN AGE

Simulate the pace of trad climbing by climbing slowly. Gym and cardio work: Focus on antagonist exercises (chest, shoulders, triceps). Four

or five sets of

THE MYSTERIOUS PHENOMENON OF ROPE SHRINKAGE Indeed it does. “Climbing ropes can and do shrink,” says Jim Ewing of Sterling Rope. “Nylon is a highly hydrophilic (readily absorbs water) and elastic material. Nylon yarns will change length with changes in moisture content as well as contaminants such as dirt. SOLO ACT: THE BRAD GOBRIGHT PROFILE Brad Gobright runs a ropeless lap on Partners in Crime (5.11a), at sunset in the Smoke Bluffs. Photo: Jeff Lewis. On a Thursday morning in late July, Brad Gobright, 27, sat in a booth toward the back of a rundown McDonald’s in Squamish, B.C. Hunched over his coffee, he was discussing Cobra Crack (5.14b) with his girlfriend, Taleen Kennedy, and a photographer, Jeff Lewis. GARY FALK, IFMGA GUIDE, FALLS TO DEATH ON GRAND TETON This past weekend, Gary Falk, 42, Exum Mountain Guide, fell to his death while guiding four clients on Wyoming’s Grand Teton. The loss of the seasoned guide, a dedicated husband and father, has devastated the community in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the outdoor community at

large.

EXTREME WEATHER EXHIBIT HONORS RESCUER WHO DIED IN Walker, Hartrich, Kane, Larson and Lentini were on the rescue in 1982. Also on that rescue effort were Misha Kirk and David Stone (both since deceased), Bill Aughton, Todd Swain, Paul Ross, Tiger Burns and Doug Madara. Dow is the only volunteer ever killed on an MRS rescue, and his death led to institutional changes. ROCK AND ICE MAGAZINE Rockandice.com is devoted to all things climbing, whatever your medium—rock, ice, snow or plastic—and style, from bouldering to sport climbing, from trad climbing to alpine and ice climbing. NOLAN SMYTHE, CLIMBER AND BASE JUMPER, DIES IN ACCIDENT ONAUTHOR: ROCK

AND ICE

On Friday, March 6, Nolan Smythe, a climber and BASE jumper based out of Moab, Utah, lost his life in an accident on the nearly 3,000-foot wall of El Gigante, near Basaseachic Falls National Park, Chihuahua, Mexico. Sasha DiGiulian broke the news on Saturday, March 7, via an Instagram post consisting of simple white text on a plain black background: “On Friday, March 6, one of our team THE DEATH COULOIR: MONT BLANC'S MOST DANGEROUS SECTION Mont Blanc rises to 4,809 meters and is the highest peak in the Alps. It is also one of the deadliest summits in the world. To reach the top, mountaineers climbing the Normal Route must go up the Couloir du Goûter. It was dubbed, not without cause, the Death Couloir.

THE POWER OF ONE

When a friend posted an offer on a community Facebook page to buy and deliver groceries for anyone in need during the current pandemic, Heather Ardley of Carbondale, Colorado, liked the idea so much she shared it herself.. Cristell Alvarez, age 2, a smiling recipient. Photo courtesy Alvarez family.

BOLT REPLACEMENT

“Roger Brown is the foremost expert on replacing bolts in granite.” —Ben Doyle, former Climbing Ranger, Yosemite National Park. In this short video from several years ago, longtime Yosemite climber and bolt replacement expert Roger Brown explains his process: his homemade tools, the steps he follows and the little tricks of the trade that go a long way toward making Yosemite’s walls

THE GOLDEN AGE

Simulate the pace of trad climbing by climbing slowly. Gym and cardio work: Focus on antagonist exercises (chest, shoulders, triceps). Four

or five sets of

THE MYSTERIOUS PHENOMENON OF ROPE SHRINKAGE Indeed it does. “Climbing ropes can and do shrink,” says Jim Ewing of Sterling Rope. “Nylon is a highly hydrophilic (readily absorbs water) and elastic material. Nylon yarns will change length with changes in moisture content as well as contaminants such as dirt. SOLO ACT: THE BRAD GOBRIGHT PROFILE Brad Gobright runs a ropeless lap on Partners in Crime (5.11a), at sunset in the Smoke Bluffs. Photo: Jeff Lewis. On a Thursday morning in late July, Brad Gobright, 27, sat in a booth toward the back of a rundown McDonald’s in Squamish, B.C. Hunched over his coffee, he was discussing Cobra Crack (5.14b) with his girlfriend, Taleen Kennedy, and a photographer, Jeff Lewis. GARY FALK, IFMGA GUIDE, FALLS TO DEATH ON GRAND TETON This past weekend, Gary Falk, 42, Exum Mountain Guide, fell to his death while guiding four clients on Wyoming’s Grand Teton. The loss of the seasoned guide, a dedicated husband and father, has devastated the community in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the outdoor community at

large.

EXTREME WEATHER EXHIBIT HONORS RESCUER WHO DIED IN Walker, Hartrich, Kane, Larson and Lentini were on the rescue in 1982. Also on that rescue effort were Misha Kirk and David Stone (both since deceased), Bill Aughton, Todd Swain, Paul Ross, Tiger Burns and Doug Madara. Dow is the only volunteer ever killed on an MRS rescue, and his death led to institutional changes.

VIDEOS ARCHIVES

Become a Member. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. WEEKEND WHIPPERS ARCHIVES Weekend Whipper: Blown Onsight of “Left Unconquerable” (E1 5b), Stanage Edge. Rock and Ice. Weekend Whippers. THE MOUNTAIN SOLDIERS OF THE U.S. ARMY: FROM WWII TO TODAY The Mountain Soldiers of the U.S. Army: From WWII to Today. While the fabled 10th Mountain Division doesn't train for the mountains quite like they used to, the Army hasn't completely abandoned the high country. And the stories of the 10th's heyday are as good as they come. Create a personalized feed and bookmark your favorites. HOW TO BUILD YOUR FIRST TRAD RACK Cams. Cams are a critical component as you build your first trad rack. Get cams that fit the most common-size placements. (And don’t get the super ultralight models that’ll cost JOHN LONG: THE REAL DEAL In mid-summer, Roubidoux is a parched and smoggy wasteland choked with tumbleweeds. But in early winter, clover and wildflowers shroud the mountainside, and the air is cool and clear. Motoring up the single-lane road en route to the 100-foot summit

FREE AS CAN BE

When Jordan Cannon, a young climber infatuated with climbing history, meets climbing legend Mark Hudon, a Yosemite big-wall free-climbing pioneer, they form an unlikely partnership around a common goal. While Cannon wants to complete an all-free ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in a day, Hudon hopes to free the route in as many days as it takes, becoming the oldest guy to free climb El 30 YEARS OF CLIMBING ACCIDENT DATA: AN INVESTIGATIVE For more than 70 years, the American Alpine Club has published an annual collection of hard lessons learned, the Accidents in North American Climbing (ANAC). The periodical includes tables cataloging injuries, deaths, key causes and other relevant information. As a longtime climber expecting my first child, I took an interest in risk

and accident data.

CHIPPING CONTROVERSY A chipping controversy has begun in New York. Ivan Greene, a New York based climber and the author of the Gunks bouldering guidebook, was candidly filmed chipping holds on a boulder on public land; and yesterday the film was made public by Dead Point Magazine. Though the filmakers remained anonymous, according to DPM’s report, numerous attempts were made over the past year by the filmakers LEARNING THE ROPES: THE INSIDE SCOOP ON ROPE ACCESS WORK Level 3 you can supervise job sites, based on having hours on ropes. You need 1,000 hours of rope access experience to move from level 1 to 2. Then another 1000 to get to level 3. Once you’re level 3, you have to renew your certification every three years. CHOOSING ICE SCREW LENGTH Ice screws typically come in up to five sizes, from 10 to 22 centimeters long. The length (s) you need will depend on the thickness of the ice, and the ice quality. Always, you want the

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LATEST NEWS

OMEGA PACIFIC, MAKER OF THE LINK CAM, CLOSING UP SHOP

01.20.2020

TRIBUTE TO JOHN EVANS: MOUNTAINEER, CLIMBER, MENTOR, AND FRIEND

01.20.2020

"JAH MAN" RISES AGAIN!

01.17.2020

"JAH MAN," CLASSIC DESERT TOWER ROUTE, FALLS DOWN! (WELL, THE FIRST

PITCH AT LEAST)

01.14.2020

CALIFORNIA’S LOVER’S LEAP ON THE BRINK

01.13.2020

*

SNAPSHOT: ISABELLE FAUS Lifelong learner can teach us all. By Alison Osius | December 2nd, 2019

*

SHOULD YOU CLIP THE BELAY AS YOUR FIRST LEAD PRO? By Rock and Ice | January 20th, 2020

*

TRIBUTE TO JOHN EVANS: MOUNTAINEER, CLIMBER, MENTOR, AND FRIEND A climber’s climber who shared a rope with the biggest names—Robbins, Unsoeld, Roskelley, Bridwell, Pratt—and did classic

firs...

By Steve Matous | January 20th, 2020

*

SPEAK YOUR TRUTH: ON GIVING FEEDBACK AT THE CRAG By Kathryn Sall | March 29th, 2018

*

THINGS—BESIDES US, THAT IS—THAT FALL Things fall apart. In climbing, that can mean whole walls in far mountains, sections of cliffs from the San Jacintos to the Adirondacks

and Whit...

By Alison Osius | January 14th, 2020

*

WEEKEND WHIPPER: BAT-S#!% CRAZY Like a bat out of hell. By Rock and Ice | January 17th, 2020

*

SNAPSHOT: ISABELLE FAUS Lifelong learner can teach us all. By Alison Osius | December 2nd, 2019

*

SHOULD YOU CLIP THE BELAY AS YOUR FIRST LEAD PRO? By Rock and Ice | January 20th, 2020

PrevNext

EDITORS' PICK

INSIDE BETA

TUBE-STYLE BELAY DEVICES BANNED FROM GYMS By Delaney Miller | 11.28.2019

JOHN LONG TALES

JOHN LONG: IMPOSSIBLE MOMENTS By John Long | 01.17.2020

JLWS

CHANGING LEADS

By Timothy Bradford | 01.16.2020 ROCK CLIMBING CLOTHING ICEBREAKER WOMEN’S TECH LITE LOW CREW – LANDSCAPE LINES By Rock and Ice | 01.20.2020

SKILLS

CLIMBING TIPS FOR SHORT PEOPLE – EPISODE 1: HIGH FEET By Movement for Climber... | 10.05.2019

BUYING TIPS

HOW TO CHOOSE A HEADLAMP By Movement for Climber... | 10.31.2013

FEATURES

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FEATURES

THE ART OF LOSING

Failure in climbing can mean many things: disappointment, sadness, even injury or death. According to Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, failure is, once we recover from it, one of our most powerful tools.

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WEEKEND WHIPPER: BAT-S#!% CRAZY Like a bat out of hell.

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UNCUT: GABRIELE MORONI - DEMENCIA SENIL (9A+/5.15A)

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MILES ADAMSON ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF "TOO TALL TO FALL," NEW V10

HIGHBALL, BISHOP

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HOW TO

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*

INJURIES AND MEDICAL ADVICE SNAPPED ANKLE TENDON I snapped the peroneal retinaculum on my right ankle while high stepping. Have you ever seen a climber who has gone through this injury? Has the person snapped it again?

View More....

*

INJURIES AND MEDICAL ADVICE HYDROCELE, SPERMATOCELE AND STRAINED GROIN “​I was toproping indoors, fell about three feet and felt a sharp pinch near where my penis meets my abdomen.”

View More....

*

INJURIES AND MEDICAL ADVICE FINGERS: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FINGER STRESS Dr. J takes a look at one of climbing’s most under-diagnosed injuries: finger stress fractures.

View More....

*

INJURIES AND MEDICAL ADVICE SNAPPED ANKLE TENDON I snapped the peroneal retinaculum on my right ankle while high stepping. Have you ever seen a climber who has gone through this injury? Has the person snapped it again?

View More....

*

INJURIES AND MEDICAL ADVICE HYDROCELE, SPERMATOCELE AND STRAINED GROIN “​I was toproping indoors, fell about three feet and felt a sharp pinch near where my penis meets my abdomen.”

View More....

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GEAR REVIEWS

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ICEBREAKER WOMEN'S TECH LITE LOW CREW - LANDSCAPE LINES All arounder! Base layer to gym pullover

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SOMEWEAR GLOBAL HOTSPOT BLACK DIAMOND DISTANCE 8L PACK

LA SPORTIVA SKWAMA

PETZL METEOR

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DESTINATIONS

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BACK TO THE FUTURE: MODERN DEVELOPMENTS IN TASMANIAN CLIMBING The following is an excerpt from Adventures at the Edge of the World,

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count the

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RUSS CLUNE'S FAVORITE 5.10: FAT CITY DIRECT // THE GUNKS

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