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RG SINANJU | ROBOSHOP Last week I built the RG Sinanju, my first Real Grade kit. While I like it quite a bit, I don’t see myself getting heavily into this particular line of models. I really just wanted something quick and simple after the momentous undertaking that was the PG Unicorn, and since I’ve been a bit obsessedZOIDS | ROBOSHOP
Honestly, it was love at first sight. I saw pictures of this version and I thought, man, this is what this Zoid should look like. Color variants are usually just fun because of how they deviate from an established color scheme, like the reverse colors of the Bloody Deathsaurer, but this looks like the definitive version of the Zero Grizis, and the regular version is the deviation. MG 2.0 GUNDAM MK-II AEUG VER. MG 2.0 Gundam Mk-II AEUG Ver. Ever since I built the Real Grade Mk-II, I’ve maintained that the ol’ 178 is my favorite Gundam of all time, so this was a real passion project for me. Despite the fact that it was super-important that I didn’t screw this up, I still decided to use the kit for a couple of experiments in terms of colors and HMM Z-KNIGHTS MARINE KAIZER BUILD REVIEW The HMM Z-Knights will no doubt go down in history as one of the weirder byproducts of Zoids. If you're not familiar with Z-Knights, they started out as a line of motorized humanoid robots with engineering based on Tomy's motorized Zoids and came out around thesame time in
PERFECT GRADE STRIKE GUNDAM BUILD REVIEW The first thing you build is the feet. It was kind of a recurring theme for me during this build that the kit reminded me of RGs in some ways, and this was one of them. You put together the the jointed inner frame, then you add the armor to it. Note the nice color separation on the underside of the feet. REAL GRADE RX 78-2 GUNDAM Basically the reasoning was that I really needed to have at least one version of the RX 78-2, and I wasn’t sure I was interested in actually devoting the time necessary to one of the MG versions, so I got this one. Now the reason I’m writing this blog is basically that this kit changed my mind about both the RX 78-2 and the RG line. REAL GRADE ASTRAY RED FRAME The waist section is a pretty simple affair, other than the opening gimmick that allows for extra poseability. Everything comes in two parts, though, with an inner red piece to add detail, which you probably know by now is something I really like. REAL GRADE CROSSBONE GUNDAM Seems like it's been a weirdly long time since I've reviewed a RG kit. Or written anything of substance on here other than brief commentary for Youtube links to Zoids Wild kits. But the thing is, these don't exactly come out every week, and there are only maybe one or two olderones left that
REAL GRADE GUNDAM MK-II A.E.U.G. So here's the deal with me and the RG Mk-II, okay. I fucking love this kit. I literally jumped online to order the Titans version within an hour of finishing the A.E.U.G. because I had so much fun that I wanted to do it again. And aside from it being an extremely fun build, theend
HMM ZILLON (AKA IGUAN) HMM Zillon (aka Iguan) Well, here’s another build that’s been a long time coming. I’ve actually had the HMM Iguan ever since it came out in 2013-ish, and the idea to paint it in the colors of the OER Zillon came soon after, but I never got around to doing it. Part of the problem was that I’d already built an HMM Godos and found thekit
RG SINANJU | ROBOSHOP Last week I built the RG Sinanju, my first Real Grade kit. While I like it quite a bit, I don’t see myself getting heavily into this particular line of models. I really just wanted something quick and simple after the momentous undertaking that was the PG Unicorn, and since I’ve been a bit obsessedZOIDS | ROBOSHOP
Honestly, it was love at first sight. I saw pictures of this version and I thought, man, this is what this Zoid should look like. Color variants are usually just fun because of how they deviate from an established color scheme, like the reverse colors of the Bloody Deathsaurer, but this looks like the definitive version of the Zero Grizis, and the regular version is the deviation. MG 2.0 GUNDAM MK-II AEUG VER. MG 2.0 Gundam Mk-II AEUG Ver. Ever since I built the Real Grade Mk-II, I’ve maintained that the ol’ 178 is my favorite Gundam of all time, so this was a real passion project for me. Despite the fact that it was super-important that I didn’t screw this up, I still decided to use the kit for a couple of experiments in terms of colors and HMM Z-KNIGHTS MARINE KAIZER BUILD REVIEW The HMM Z-Knights will no doubt go down in history as one of the weirder byproducts of Zoids. If you're not familiar with Z-Knights, they started out as a line of motorized humanoid robots with engineering based on Tomy's motorized Zoids and came out around thesame time in
PERFECT GRADE STRIKE GUNDAM BUILD REVIEW The first thing you build is the feet. It was kind of a recurring theme for me during this build that the kit reminded me of RGs in some ways, and this was one of them. You put together the the jointed inner frame, then you add the armor to it. Note the nice color separation on the underside of the feet. REAL GRADE RX 78-2 GUNDAM Basically the reasoning was that I really needed to have at least one version of the RX 78-2, and I wasn’t sure I was interested in actually devoting the time necessary to one of the MG versions, so I got this one. Now the reason I’m writing this blog is basically that this kit changed my mind about both the RX 78-2 and the RG line. REAL GRADE ASTRAY RED FRAME The waist section is a pretty simple affair, other than the opening gimmick that allows for extra poseability. Everything comes in two parts, though, with an inner red piece to add detail, which you probably know by now is something I really like. REAL GRADE CROSSBONE GUNDAM Seems like it's been a weirdly long time since I've reviewed a RG kit. Or written anything of substance on here other than brief commentary for Youtube links to Zoids Wild kits. But the thing is, these don't exactly come out every week, and there are only maybe one or two olderones left that
REAL GRADE GUNDAM MK-II A.E.U.G. So here's the deal with me and the RG Mk-II, okay. I fucking love this kit. I literally jumped online to order the Titans version within an hour of finishing the A.E.U.G. because I had so much fun that I wanted to do it again. And aside from it being an extremely fun build, theend
HMM ZILLON (AKA IGUAN) HMM Zillon (aka Iguan) Well, here’s another build that’s been a long time coming. I’ve actually had the HMM Iguan ever since it came out in 2013-ish, and the idea to paint it in the colors of the OER Zillon came soon after, but I never got around to doing it. Part of the problem was that I’d already built an HMM Godos and found thekit
ZOIDS | ROBOSHOP
Honestly, it was love at first sight. I saw pictures of this version and I thought, man, this is what this Zoid should look like. Color variants are usually just fun because of how they deviate from an established color scheme, like the reverse colors of the Bloody Deathsaurer, but this looks like the definitive version of the Zero Grizis, and the regular version is the deviation. HMM Z-KNIGHTS MARINE KAIZER BUILD REVIEW The HMM Z-Knights will no doubt go down in history as one of the weirder byproducts of Zoids. If you're not familiar with Z-Knights, they started out as a line of motorized humanoid robots with engineering based on Tomy's motorized Zoids and came out around thesame time in
PERFECT GRADE STRIKE GUNDAM BUILD REVIEW The box isn’t much bigger than the MG Sazabi Ver. Ka’s, and with the Unicorn being the only other PG under my belt, I was a bit surprised by the low parts count. It’s been a while since I built the Sazabi, but the two kits are probably similar in complexity.GUNPLA – PAGE 2
An amusing idiosyncrasy is how the bottom of the armor goes on – at first I thought this was the ankle armor and just sat loosely on the foot, but you actually click it VIDEO | ROBOSHOP | PAGE 2 Zoids Wild parts always come packaged into three sets of bags labeled A, B, and S. A is the parts for the bone structure, B the armor, and S is all the other stuff like REAL GRADE GUNDAM MK-II A.E.U.G. So here's the deal with me and the RG Mk-II, okay. I fucking love this kit. I literally jumped online to order the Titans version within an hour of finishing the A.E.U.G. because I had so much fun that I wanted to do it again. And aside from it being an extremely fun build, theend
REAL GRADE NU GUNDAM The assembly is a bit unusual because of that big spherical joint that you’d expect to see in the hips. Also, you may have noticed right here that there are no MS joint parts – taking a picture of the B sprue is another thing I forgot to do, but as you’ll see further down, the only MS joint parts on the entire kit go into the funnels, the suit itself has none of them at all. HMM GUN SNIPER FULL REPAINT The claws and teeth, as well as the caps and a few pistons here and there, are Tamiya’s titanium gold with white drybrushing. You’ll remember I used this color combo on the Death Stinger and threatened to keep using it on every kit from there on out. The smaller toes are actually molded in one piece, so I had to paint on the goldseparately.
TOMY ZOIDS: STILL THE REAL THING Tomy Zoids: Still the Real Thing. So it occurs to me that I’m about to let another month go by without posting a blog, and as I’ve said before, we can’t have that. The honest reason is still that because of my virtually nonexistent photo setup, I need a lot of daylight to take pictures, and this time of year, it just ain’t happenin’.ROBOSHOP
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December 31, 2019
ZOIDS WILD GATLING FOX AKA I ALMOST MISSED DECEMBER In keeping with last month’s pattern, here’s my Gatling Fox Youtube review on the last day of the month. Or, you know, the decade, if you’re not into the whole math thing. Anyway, aside from the fact that I haven’t been particularly good about writing something at least once a month lately, I also think I’m going to lose the archive widget in the sidebar soon – it’s gone from “easy access” to “kind of unwieldy” because this blog has lasted a lot longer than I thought it would. Anyway, here’s the Gatling Wrooff. It’s like Hunter Wrooff, just a bit less shitty.Advertisements
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Posted in Zoids
Tagged with gatling fox, takaratomy
, youtube
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November 30, 2019
A WHOLE BUNCHA YOUTUBES My run of posting a video every week kind of fizzled out at the end because of the whole COPPA fiasco, and I actually still have yet to produce _any_ proper content about my Maschinen Krieger competition build, but, um, anyway, here are some recent Zoids videos, mostly because I almost let November go by without posting anything here, andyou know the rules.
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Posted in Zoids
Tagged with geno spino, hammer head
, sniptera
, stylaser
, takaratomy
, youtube
, Zoids
, zoids wild
October 9, 2019
KOTOBUKIYA HMM BERSERK FUHRER “BERSERKER REX” WIP 3 This build is more or less finished, and like an idiot, I didn’t take pictures during the kitbashing/scratchbuilding part, so I guess I’ll just show you guys the Youtube video. The one thing left to do is to build a small display base for it, and then we’ll do a proper photo gallery and I’ll talk about it a bit more on here as well. For now, I’ll just say that this is easily my favorite thing that I’vemade.
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Posted in Painted Builds, Zoids
Tagged with
berserk fuhrer
, hmm
, kitbashing
, kotobukiya
, painting
, weathering
September 25,
2019
MASCHINEN KRIEGER S.A.F.S. IN A BELL JAR It’s taken me a while to do this writeup, mostly because this is a build that I could talk about for hours. Personally, I think this is at least in my top 3 favorite things that I’ve ever made, and the entire process was incredibly fun from start to finish, in every possible way. Just looking at the pictures makes me feel all warm andfuzzy inside.
We’re going to tackle the main kit, the figure and the base separately here because I really want to talk about all of it, and that should hopefully keep things a bit more organized. And if none of that interests you, you can scroll to the bottom for the Youtubevideo.
THE S.A.F.S.
The Wave S.A.F.S. is a recent release, so it’s a very simple kit. Wave also produces reissues of the old Nitto Ma.K kits (or at least kits roughly based on the Nitto line) that require glue and are generally a bit more challenging, but these newer models are snapfit kits no more complex than an extremely simple HG Gunpla kit. That also means they have a lot of seamlines to deal with, though, and since that’s the case and I kind of wanted to try it anyway, there’s pretty much no point in trying to paint the parts individually, you have to assemble the kit first, fix the seamlines (which I did… semi-successfully here, but the weathering hides most of it), and then get painting. So I primed the entire kit white first, then airbrushed the armor with Tamiya Olive Drab and Desert Yellow for the first basic colors. Anything that wasn’t armor or one of the rubbery joint pieces I painted brown as a basis to make it look like rusted metal; some of this was done with an airbrush, using Tamiya’s Red Brown, and then I mixed Citadel’s Mournfang Brown and Dryad Bark about 50/50 to create a reasonably matching brown tone that I could hand brush on the areas that couldn’t be airbrushed. Then I sponged a variety of brown and orange tones all over these areas, followed by a black wash later on, and that was pretty much it for the rusted metal. Unlike on the Riesen-Panzer IV,
I didn’t want to use chipping fluid this time for various reasons, so I used a sponge instead. The basic foundation color for the chips was Dryad Bark, followed by more selective applications of Mournfang Brown, Squig Orange and Administratum Grey. I’m really happy with how that worked out – the Dryad Bark especially turned out to be a damn near perfect color for rusted metal under chipped paint, and it’s all much easier to control than using chipping fluid. The rest wasn’t much different from the Riesen-Panzer IV – first I drybrushed some vertical streaks over the chipping, followed by washes, both done with Abteilung 502 oil paints. I added a lot more thinned paints to the drybrushed streaks to tighten them up a bit this time, though, and I think that made a huge difference. Generally, I feel like I’ve developed a new approach to weathering for myself with these two builds that works really well for these particular types of kits, and this has been really fun – I’m not sure I’d use it on Gunpla, though. The last painting step was to deal with the joint parts; I wanted these to look like dark rubber, basically, so I painted them Mechanicus Standard Grey and then applied several washes of Nuln Oil over them until they looked like black with grey highlights. I used the same method previously on my Imperial Knight,
and I find it’s easier to do and actually gives me better results than trying to do highlights over black. Near the end, I also turned this into a mixed media build as you’re really kind of supposed to do with Ma.K. The kit comes with hose parts that are made from the same rubbery material as the joints, and I really didn’t like those, so I replaced them with coil springs, also from Wave. They have wire in them so that they’ll hold their shape, and then I pretty much just drybrushed and stippled my various rust colors over them to blend them in with the rest. You’re also meant to make your own antenna, although the instructions don’t actually say that, there just happens to be a hole where it goes and there is one clearly visible in the illustrations on the decal instructions. So I took a thin piece of brass rod and a short section of coil spring for the bottom and superglued that on there. The pilot’s head, uh, came out looking pretty good, but I don’t have much of substance to say about the paintjob, to be honest. It as a lot of back and forth and trial and error until I had the shadows and highlights where I wanted them, and then I just matte coated it and left it alone. The cockpit, as you can see, kind of follows the general color scheme of my Griffon,
although I did it with Citadel paints this time and it’s pretty muchall hand painted.
THE FIGURE
This thing goes by a couple of different names on English sites and the packaging is only in Japanese, so I’m not sure what it’s called. It’s from Brickworks, who in my experience produce the best quality Ma.K figures, and I certainly love this one both in terms of design and parts fit precision. I’m pretty sure there is no putty on this whatsoever, it just went together perfectly. Anyway, I’d had this figure lying around for at least a year looking for a cool way to use it, and once I had decided on the overall layout for this build, it was clear that I had finally found one. The paintjob is actually very simple and straightforward. Basically, I primed the entire figure black, then sprayed light grey on it from the top. And then I just glazed over that with green and light brown to tint it. The shirt came out a bit messy because I hadn’t thinned the paint enough, but it basically reads as dirty cloth, so it looks okay, and on the pants it really worked like magic. Definitely a new trick to keep in my arsenal. Everything other than the shirt and the pants is hand-brushed with Citadel paints. I did some mild highlighting on the helmet and the face, but for the most part I kept it pretty straightforward. Looking at it now, I think maybe some more shading around the eyes would have been better, but I’m still pretty happy with how this thing cameout.
THE BASE
The only clear idea I had when I started this build was that I wanted to do the S.A.F.S. because I was working on the Berserk Fuhrer and it was taking forever – this was supposed to be a simple little side project that wouldn’t require the logistics of a larger-sizeHMM kit.
I knew pretty much from the start that I wanted to create a display base for it, but I was originally thinking more along the lines of what you’d do for a tabletop gaming model. Then someone posted pictures of a heavily weathered SD Gundam inside of an Ikea bell jar in the Modelmaker’s Boomhut, and the ideas
suddenly all came together. No, the S.A.F.S. was actually going to be standing on a pile of rubble with a character in front of it to give it some verticality, and it was going to be inside one of these bell jars that I now had to go out and get from my local Ikea. The bell jar wasn’t expensive and it’s pretty great for this sort of thing (also a 100% dust-proof display solution that looks good), but the base does come powder coated in a horrifying brass-like color, and I needed to get rid of that. So I had to sand that off first, which was something I’d never done before. I recommend a brillo pad and a dust mask. No prizes for guessing which of these two things I didn’t use and ended up regretting. No prizes either for guessing whether you should be spraying metal primer without protection, even if you do it outdoors. Ahem. Anyway, the actual base is made from chunks of cork and various spare parts, obviously, plus a piece of pla-plate on top for the S.A.F.S. to stand on. Once I’d covered the ground around it in sand, I first airbrushed the entire construction (which sits on a round piece of pla-plate that I later attached to the base, by the way, because I wanted to maintain the option of changing things rather than building directly on the base) with Desert Yellow and Red Brown from Tamiya; these are also the colors I used to paint the actual metal base to tie it all together in the end. Then I hand painted the pieces of scrap metal and drybrushed them with grey because I knew I was going to matte coat everything in the end anyway, so there wasn’t much point in using metallics. Plus I wanted to see if you could get a believable worn metal look without metallics. The rest should be obvious enough – the grass tufts are from Noch, but I cut them up a bit so they wouldn’t look too much like pre-made grass tufts, and the plate on top has a Tamiya putty texture followed by basically the same treatment as the rust parts on the S.A.F.S. and some olive green to make it look like a chunk of the outer hull of some military vehicle. That didn’t work out quite as well as I had hoped – I really should have followed my initial instinct and also done a stripe or a decal or something, I think. But that did wrap things up. I sprayed another matte topcoat over everything and plonked the bell jar down on top of it. Overall, I’m very happy with how this build turned out. I still have a bunch of nitpicks and things I would do differently if I could start over, of course, but in the end what counts is the overall impression a build makes, and I just really like what this one looks like. The process was also incredibly fun because most of it was so spontaneous. With more complex things like PG or MG Gunpla or an HMM kit, you really need to have at least a rough plan that you then execute, and that’s fine, but it does mean that you spend a lot of time basically checking off items on a to-do list, and it can get tedious and stifling. This is the main reason why I like Ma.K kits so much – because you have to paint them mostly assembled anyway, you don’t go through the tedium of staring at literally hundreds of parts on alligator clips for several weeks, and because of their overall style, it’s kind of okay to play it a little fast and loose with the weathering. So that’s my conclusion here, I guess. Don’t let yourself be constrainted too much by your procedures and techniques and remember that modeling is ultimately creative work, and your ideas need room tobreathe.
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brickworks ,
maschinen krieger
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September 24,
2019
ZOIDS WILD RAPTORIA AND BAZOOTLE Just two Youtube videos today – I’m working on a longer blog for my most recent Maschinen Krieger build, and I’ll have a big, fat update about the Berserk Fuhrer soon. In fact, I’m spraying the final topcoat on that sumbitch tonight. Written by spacehamsterzhLeave a
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Tagged with bazootle, raptoria
, review
, takaratomy
, youtube
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August 22, 2019
REAL GRADE NU GUNDAM Welp, it’s pretty much a given at this point that if there’s a new Real Grade, I’m going to do a snap build and review it. But honestly, I’m still only buying the ones I like. It’s just that I’ve liked all the ones that have been coming out lately. Now I’m afraid we’re going to have to start this review with a confession that I somehow forgot to take the usual “here’s what’s in the box” pic. I don’t know what happened, but you can check out my Youtube review if unboxings are what your plants crave. The short version is, it’s a big box, and there’s a lot of stuff in it, so we’re going to behere a while.
Stop me if you’ve heard this one before, but the build starts withthe feet.
The assembly is a bit unusual because of that big spherical joint that you’d expect to see in the hips. Also, you may have noticed right here that there are no MS joint parts – taking a picture of the B sprue is another thing I forgot to do, but as you’ll see further down, the only MS joint parts on the entire kit go into the funnels, the suit itself has none of them at all. Anyway, we continue the assembly with the legs. Here’s one of them and all the parts needed to construct the other. Yeah. That’s a lot of parts. Between that and the total absence of an MS frame, I think it’s fair to say we’ve officially crossed over into “Master Grade at 1/144th scale”territory now.
Assembly of the legs starts with the knee and then continues with the upper thigh. Notice the internal mechanism here. This is the sliding armor plates gimmick that’s been absent from RG kits since the Tallgeese because they apparently couldn’t make it happen without an MS joint frame. Well, it’s back. The rest of the leg then goes together about as you’d expect, although there’s still quite a bit of moving stuff inside the inner frame because the ankle armor moves. And then you add the armor. As you can see in the final pic, the upper thigh armor moves as you bend the knee, and the ankle armor can alsomove a bit.
Next is the waist unit. The interesting part here is that the hinged hip joints are separate, which means that you can actually unlock the legs separately, meaning you no longer have to dislocate both legs if you just need a bit more motion in one of them. Pretty nifty. Otherwise the waist unit goes together, well, like a waist unit. It’s worth pointing out, though, that the way the skirts attach to the main unit is very simple, straightforward and therefore stable. We continue with the torso which, as you can see here, is veryflexible.
It loses some of that articulation once it’s all put together, but it’s still pretty impressive. And of course the kit also has expanding shoulder joints for extraposeability.
The rest of the torso assembly is just adding the remaining armor pieces, which isn’t anything complicated or unusual. The arms, as you can see below, are not identical. The left arm has this contraption that allows you to store a beam saber handle in it. This is actually a pretty nifty gimmick as the beam saber pops out when you slide the blue armor piece up. Next is the shoulder armor, and we have a Headless Hessian. The head is also not terribly complicated, but that’s ok. I’m still getting shivers everytime I think about what it was like to put the Crossbone Gundam‘s
head together, so the simplicity and the reasonable parts size here were very welcome, and it still looks fantastic. Assembly of the backpack starts, as is often the case, with theboosters.
Next you build the attachment point for the funnels. Or actually, you build two of these. The kit includes the second one that you attach the P-Bandai set with the other six funnels to. And then we add the attachment point for the large beam saber, which can actually rotate to hide the hole the saber plugs into. And finally, the funnels. These consist of quite a few parts because there’s a lot of nice color separation. Unfortunately, though, not all of them really fold all the way. That doesn’t get into the way of mounting them on the backpack at all, which works well – you can pick the kit up and shake it, and the funnels won’t come loose. But it’s still a bit OCD-inducing, if I’m honest. Well, and that’s the Nu Gundam all put together sans stickers andweapons.
But hark, quoth I, what’s this you say?Accessories?
There actually aren’t that many, but what’s here is really solid. You get the beam rifle, the bazooka, the shield, a regular and the large beam saber, an array of open, closed and holding hands, a tiny Amuro and a really good action base adapter that plugs into the backpack. Also pictured is the extra attachment part for the funnels. My only gripe with the accessories is that the shield doesn’t really clip onto the arm that well. It’s serviceable, but it also likes to fall off, and it ends up in a position where it’s hard to get any cool looking poses. I usually like to display my Gunpla with their shields, but with this one, it went back in the ziploc bag. And speaking of posing and displaying and action base adapters, here’s the glamor shoot. Also, to cap things off, I’ve got two size comparisons. I think the pictures speak for themselves. The Nu is so big that it makes the Mk-II look like they’re not even the same scale. Like the Sazabi, it’s almost the size of a regular Master Grade. If you can’t tell from the pictures, this is one of those kits that are just fun to play with because it’s so solid. Like all the more recent RG kits, the Nu marries excellent poseability with sturdiness and beautiful looks. I really feel like Bandai has found the sweet spot now where these kits are exactly as complex as they need to be, without any over-engineered or flimsy parts, and so they’re not only just as beautiful as the Real Grades have always been, but also rock-solid and really fun to build because everything goes together easily. The Sazabi is still my favorite Real Grade, but it’s really close. And I can’t wait to see what’s next for this crazy line of little engineering marvels. Written by spacehamsterzh2 Comments
Posted in Gunpla
Tagged with bandai ,build review ,
gundam , Gunpla
, nu gundam
, real grade
, review
August 16, 2019
CAVICO MODELS 1/35 RIESEN-PANZER IV Before anyone asks, I really don’t know the first thing about _Kampf Riesen Mars_. A cursory Google search seems to indicate that it’s a series of model kits with a backstory, but not really any other accompanying media. Either way, I just bought this kit because it was on sale at HLJ and I thought it looked cool and I wanted to build something that isn’t like any of my usual stuff, i.e. not the eleventy billionth Gunpla kit where I already know where the parts go without looking at the instructions. Another thing I had been meaning to do in quite a while was to test Vallejo’s chipping medium, and this seemed like the perfect kit to do that on because it’s basically a rusty oil barrel with arms and legs. So I started by painting a rust texture all over the parts that were eventually going to be painted blue; Tamiya Red Brown was the base color, followed by sponging various shades of yellow, orange and grey over everything. Then I applied the chipping medium, followed by the blue and yellow paints. Since they had to be water-based acrylics and my stash of Vallejo Model Air paints is a bit limited, I had to mix my own colors. That worked fine for the blue, which is basically just their base blue with a lot of grey mixed into it, but the arm was really meant to be orange, and I couldn’t for the life of me get a proper orange tone out of Scarlet Red and Medium Yellow. Eventually I just gave up and settled for straight yellow. Here’s the result. Now here’s a fun fact. Vallejo’s Youtube channel says to let the chipping medium dry for 20 minutes, while the written instructions on their website (using pictures from the same build as the Youtube video) say 30; drying time for the paint on top is stated as 60 minutes on Youtube and just “until dry” in the written version. I followed the Youtube video, and… I’m not sure it worked asintended.
If you look closely at what’s basically the mech’s chest and a few other parts, you can see the paint shrank and cracked, but it didn’t do this everywhere. Also, as I was chipping away at the paint with a damp brush, it came off in very nice random patterns in some places, but on the chest and further down on the torso, I got these huge patches that just peeled off all at once, which honestly doesn’t look too great. Luckily I had the foresight of painting a random rust pattern underneath and not just brown as some people apparently do, but it was still a bit frustrating. The chipping is easier to control if you soak the part first and then chip the paint off with a toothpick, but then it loses its randomness and you start wondering why you’re going through all this hassle when you might as well be painting the chips on with a brush. I’m not sure what the problem was – maybe I applied the chipping medium too thick, or maybe it needs more time to dry, or maybe both. Obviously I need to experiment further with it, maybe on my considerable backlog of Maschinen Krieger kits. I will say, though, that when it’s working correctly, the effect is quite striking, and the three-dimensionality that is absolutely still visible after several layers of further topcoats and weathering can’t be achieved any other way. So there’s that. Speaking of further weathering, that was all done with oil paints. First I did a whole lot of drybrushed streaking with various Abteilung 502 paints; Dark Rust, Starship Filth (duh), and I think I also used some Midnight Blue on the blue parts to get a bit of color variation since I hadn’t done any preshading. That worked a treat, as you can see. The decals were just applied and then scraped off again with a toothpick where they needed to be damaged because of the chippingunderneath.
Once the streaks had dried, I added a bit of a pin wash around some of the details, then topcoated everything and applied a filter of Abteilung 502’s Ghost Grey because everything looked kind of garish, especially the blue and yellow colors, which were definitely too saturated at this point. As usual, that was the moment it really all came together as the filter both knocked back the colors to where I wanted them to be and smoothed out some of the heavier contrast, tying everything together. The gunmetal-colored parts, by the way, were nothing out of the ordinary; Vallejo Metal Color Gun Metal over the same matte black primer as everything else, followed by silver and brown drybrushing and a black wash. I used the matte black primer because I was going to topcoat everything matte anyway. Some of the gunmetal stuff you’re seeing is hand painted detail on parts that also have blue and yellow armor areas, so it would have been a massive pain to go for my usual twin finishes here. Plus, frankly, the gunmetal parts still look different enough even without the gloss primer and topcoat. The last thing to do on the bot was the lights on the head and torso and the eyes. Those are all Tamiya Clear paints over Chrome Silver. The light on the torso is a polycap and the paint chipped off when I inserted it, but it ended up looking, ahem, like intentional weathering, so I just left it. And then of course it was time for that diorama. I’m still really happy with how that turned out, but it was actually super simple and the total cost of the materials including the picture frame from Ikea is probably like ten Euros. The picture frame came with a crappy piece of clear plastic instead of glass, which was perfect for me because it gave me a plastic sheet that was cut to size already. I just sanded it a bit to make sure things wouldn’t peel off – I’ve had that problem in the past when I used things other than sheet styrene to build dioramas on and I’ve learned my damned lesson by now. Next I glued two broken pieces of cork to the base for the concrete wall. I’ve been using pot stands from Ikea for this for a while now because cork is expensive if you buy it at the craft store and these actually work fine and have a good consistency to make rock from. The next step was to cover the wall in Tamiya putty, which I applied in vertical motions with a sculpting tool, much like you actually would in real life. It came out looking a lot rougher on the back because that was done with the last bit of putty in an old tube that had dried a bit, but that actually ended up looking better and it’s the most visible part of the wall, so… good. The bullet holes are basically carved out with a knife, and the broken pieces of the concrete wire mesh are, well, wire. Next I covered everything in PVA glue and added some rubble in the form of fine gravel and cork pieces, plus sand for the rest of the surface. I’d looked at pictures of bombed buildings previously, and I would’ve liked to make it all a bit messier, but I had to make sure I could still attach the models somewhere afterwards. Most of the painting on the diorama was done with an airbrush; Tamiya Dark Grey was the base tone, and then I added various shadows and highlights plus some brown to break up the monotony of the grey a bit. My reference images all showed nothing but grey from the dust after a bombing, but that just didn’t look interesting. Finally, I just did a lot of washes and drybrushing on everything. The washes on the wall are honestly just Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade applied vertically and brushed up and down until I liked the look of it. I’m still a bit shocked by how easy it was to get this wall to look like this, if I’m honest, and it’s possibly my favorite partof the whole build.
The figure is a resin 1/35 Ma.K “Martina” from Brick Works. I bought this thing thinking it was 1/20th scale and thought I’d never have a use for it, so the sole reason it’s here is because I seriously doubt I’ll ever have another chance to use it. I’m not particularly thrilled with the paintjob on her, especially because I couldn’t do the pupils and just left the eyes white, but I’m not sure it’s physically possible to produce a paint dot small enough for what you need here. Anyway, I put the rifle on the remaining bit of empty space on the left and that was that. Overall, I’m quite happy with how this one came out. The diorama doesn’t tell much of a story, but it’s still better than just the robot with nothing for him to stand on – that’s a lesson I learned last year from painting Warhammer minis. And as you can probably tell from my description above, I’m still thrilled with the way the concrete wall came out. I’m sure I’m not the first person to think of this, but I did come up with the method myself and just figured I’d give it a shot, having no idea if it was going to work. And,well, it did.
The kit itself is a bit expensive for what it is, but it’s pretty cool. There are very few visible seamlines that you’ll have to deal with and it’s pretty poseable. I especially like how the shoulders can swing back and forth. It also has an opening cockpit gimmick, but I can’t show that here without scratching up the entire paintjob, so you’ll either have to take my word for it or google the kit. The one big problem is the kit’s ankles, which are basically just these incredibly flimsy little polycap balljoints that can’t support it at all. It won’t stand up on its own for long because it starts leaning until it falls over, and if you glue it to a base like I did, it’ll just start doing a Michael Jackson impression. I’ve got it balanced to where it’ll stand up straight now and it’s lasted for a few days, but I still think eventually it’s going to lean again and then I’ll have to find some way to reinforce those ankles without destroying everything. Anyway, this was a whole lot of experimentation and a whole lot of fun. I tried out several things I’d never done before, and because I’d declared the build an experiment in my head from the start, I was also able to just kind of approach everything with more of a “the heck with it” attitude that allowed me to go nuts. I need to do that more often. It’s just a bit harder to convince yourself to do that when you’re working on a PG Gunpla that cost three figures and is going to take you months to complete whether your little experiment works out or not, ahem. Written by spacehamsterzhLeave a
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Posted in Painted BuildsTagged
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, kampf riesen mars
, maschinen
krieger ,
painted , riesen
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weathering
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