FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this) HOW TO CREATE GRADE RULES 1 This is the first portion of the theory part on how to create grade rules (grade rules are used to size clothing). Also see antecedent entries here, here and here if you have no idea what I’m talking about.. In spite of whatever you might read here, the practice and application of grading is easy. A BETTER WAY TO SEW LININGS AND FACINGS I will sew side A the way I don’t like. Side B is sewn the way I prefer to do it. Below, the lining and shell of side A are joined and sewn edge to edge. By the way, the front is a fold piece, it was too large to put the whole thing here. The back takes a zipper so just ignore that for the purposes of this exercise. Below, side B is shown. HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS One example would be gusset junctures. Note: for all views the muslin is facing and the blue is shell/self. One piece V neckline. Mark off the seam allowance at the juncture of the V on whichever piece you’ll have on top. I choose the facing. Note: I’m using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is standard for necklines and outside edges.

WHAT ARE SKUS?

This is the first entry in a multi-part series. The other entries are What is a UPC code, How to issue SKUs and UPCs and Why you need your own bar codes.. All told, this topic was too lengthy to post as one entry. A SKU (pronounced skew) is a stock keeping unit used for inventory and costing purposes. FLATLOCKING COMPARED TO COVER STITCHING AND OVERLOCKING As to the difference: A coverstitch is basically 2 or 3 needle bobbin-less top stitching that provides some elasticity. It doesn’t have to be used on an overlocked (serged) seam but usually is. The back side of the seam forms a ladder pattern or similar configuration joining the lines of stitching to and fro. This is similar to the

effect you

10 REASONS FOR SKIPPED STITCHES Item #1, Improper threading is the most common reason for skipped stitches or breaking threads. There are so many factors involved with improper threading that this alone could be it’s own post. In order, these are the most common reasons related to improper threading: The needle is threaded from the wrong side.

KATHLEEN FASANELLA

Kathleen Fasanella. Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. In 2015 she opened a 5,000 sqft. fully equipped sewing factory: The

Sewing

SLEEVE CAP EASE IS BOGUS Oh my god, this is an example of some sort of synchronicity, I swear to you, I spent 3 hours last night writing all the things I understand about sleeves and armscyes (and shoulders and arms) so that I could send it to you and ask you explain where I’ve gone wrong, because I still don’t believe your claim that sleeve-cap ease is never

necessary.

FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this) HOW TO CREATE GRADE RULES 1 This is the first portion of the theory part on how to create grade rules (grade rules are used to size clothing). Also see antecedent entries here, here and here if you have no idea what I’m talking about.. In spite of whatever you might read here, the practice and application of grading is easy. A BETTER WAY TO SEW LININGS AND FACINGS I will sew side A the way I don’t like. Side B is sewn the way I prefer to do it. Below, the lining and shell of side A are joined and sewn edge to edge. By the way, the front is a fold piece, it was too large to put the whole thing here. The back takes a zipper so just ignore that for the purposes of this exercise. Below, side B is shown. HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS One example would be gusset junctures. Note: for all views the muslin is facing and the blue is shell/self. One piece V neckline. Mark off the seam allowance at the juncture of the V on whichever piece you’ll have on top. I choose the facing. Note: I’m using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is standard for necklines and outside edges.

WHAT ARE SKUS?

This is the first entry in a multi-part series. The other entries are What is a UPC code, How to issue SKUs and UPCs and Why you need your own bar codes.. All told, this topic was too lengthy to post as one entry. A SKU (pronounced skew) is a stock keeping unit used for inventory and costing purposes. FLATLOCKING COMPARED TO COVER STITCHING AND OVERLOCKING As to the difference: A coverstitch is basically 2 or 3 needle bobbin-less top stitching that provides some elasticity. It doesn’t have to be used on an overlocked (serged) seam but usually is. The back side of the seam forms a ladder pattern or similar configuration joining the lines of stitching to and fro. This is similar to the

effect you

10 REASONS FOR SKIPPED STITCHES Item #1, Improper threading is the most common reason for skipped stitches or breaking threads. There are so many factors involved with improper threading that this alone could be it’s own post. In order, these are the most common reasons related to improper threading: The needle is threaded from the wrong side.

KATHLEEN FASANELLA

Kathleen Fasanella. Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. In 2015 she opened a 5,000 sqft. fully equipped sewing factory: The

Sewing

SLEEVE CAP EASE IS BOGUS Oh my god, this is an example of some sort of synchronicity, I swear to you, I spent 3 hours last night writing all the things I understand about sleeves and armscyes (and shoulders and arms) so that I could send it to you and ask you explain where I’ve gone wrong, because I still don’t believe your claim that sleeve-cap ease is never

necessary.

WHAT ARE SKUS?

This is the first entry in a multi-part series. The other entries are What is a UPC code, How to issue SKUs and UPCs and Why you need your own bar codes.. All told, this topic was too lengthy to post as one entry. A SKU (pronounced skew) is a stock keeping unit used for inventory and costing purposes. CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP The sales rep in return wants a 3 year USA exclusive contract. 12% commission, $950.00 in trade room fees monthly. All Trade Show fees (Pro Rata with other lines). She wants 120 days termination with 3% paid for one year following termination. She will accept quota’s tied to the contract. She would like 1,500. advance every month. WHAT IS A CUTTING TICKET Cutting tickets. Cut order: Cut order is the whole shooting match. It’s better defined as a purchase order with specifications for the cutting of a production run of one given style. Depending on the product complexity, you can have a cutting ticket for each fabrication used in the product. Cutting tickets are a part of the cut order. APPAREL INDUSTRY JOBS (RECRUITERS & AGENCIES) 24/7 specializes in jobs in the apparel industry. Adkins & Associates, Fashion Headhunters. Karlyn Associates. Fashion Career Center. Precision Placements, Inc. (nice guy, sales and mktg jobs mostly) E.A.Hughes & Co. Kirk Palmer & Associates. Raskin Executive Search.

Apparel Staffing.

WORKING WITH A SEWING FACTORY PT.1 Working with a sewing factory pt.1. 2. May 12, 2017. The cutting room in my factory. There is no simple, bullet point list to follow when considering your first approach to a sewing factory. Like you and your product line, every provider is unique. In the end I can only speak for my factory but I HOW TO DEVELOP SEWING TOLERANCES How to develop sewing tolerances. Be forewarned that this is closer to an inquiry than a tutorial. Tolerances are a plus or minus measurement used on a tech pack to determine whether a product meets a specified quality standard. It is usually expressed as plus or minus. For example, one point of measure ( POM) for a bust line may say the FORM, FIT & FUNCTION THAT WON’T BREAK THE BANK Form, fit & function that won’t break the bank. I’m pleased to announce that Alvanon has launched a new line of dress forms called AlvaForm Studio. The price of these forms are gentle on your pocketbook but certain to please anyone who has coveted one of their elite quality forms. And, this is the first official announcement -we

got the

WHAT’S A PROTOTYPE AND WHEN DO YOU NEED ONE? By definition, a prototype is a benchmark. As a benchmark, it is used for certain tests. Among other things, a prototype is a proof of: the final interpretive word on design details and execution, the proof of fabric and hardware allocation (yield or utilization), and perhaps most importantly of all -the proof for costing purposes. WHY EXISTING MANUFACTURERS DON’T ADD PLUS SIZES 1. Manufacturers are greedy and will do anything for a buck. 2. Manufacturers must not want my money if they won’t make clothes I want to buy. 1. Manufacturers don’t care about me, they don’t care how I feel. 2. Manufacturers are trying to make me feel better by putting smaller size labels in WHAT ARE THE MEASUREMENTS OF A SIZE 10? PT.2 Apparently, an alternative title to follow up with yesterday’s entry is Size is a matter of opinion pt.2 (see part one if you missed it). Results of the survey (thank you!) showed pretty much what I expected. Namely that measurements are all over the map.

FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this)

RELABELING GARMENTS

The regulations require that you include the following information on your labels: 1. The fiber content and the fabric’s country of origin. 2. The country of origin (where the item was manufactured) 3. The name or business responsible for marketing or handling the item. If you will be relabeling the items, you have additional

responsibilities.

TRAINING SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS PT 2 Once the operator has had a measure of success with these exercises, then training to specific jobs on fabric starts. Exercise 1 (below), helps with: Accuracy in sewing straight lines. Treadle (foot pedal) and braking control. To overcome fear of the machine. Exercise 2 (below), reinforces the skills above and helps with: CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP The sales rep in return wants a 3 year USA exclusive contract. 12% commission, $950.00 in trade room fees monthly. All Trade Show fees (Pro Rata with other lines). She wants 120 days termination with 3% paid for one year following termination. She will accept quota’s tied to the contract. She would like 1,500. advance every month. HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS One example would be gusset junctures. Note: for all views the muslin is facing and the blue is shell/self. One piece V neckline. Mark off the seam allowance at the juncture of the V on whichever piece you’ll have on top. I choose the facing. Note: I’m using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is standard for necklines and outside edges. APPAREL INDUSTRY JOBS (RECRUITERS & AGENCIES) 24/7 specializes in jobs in the apparel industry. Adkins & Associates, Fashion Headhunters. Karlyn Associates. Fashion Career Center. Precision Placements, Inc. (nice guy, sales and mktg jobs mostly) E.A.Hughes & Co. Kirk Palmer & Associates. Raskin Executive Search.

Apparel Staffing.

NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY Nick & Nora: chargeback casualty. 12. May 18, 2005. A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores. Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has

become

10 REASONS FOR SKIPPED STITCHES Item #1, Improper threading is the most common reason for skipped stitches or breaking threads. There are so many factors involved with improper threading that this alone could be it’s own post. In order, these are the most common reasons related to improper threading: The needle is threaded from the wrong side. HOW TO REMOVE SLEEVE CAP EASE Reshaping armholes is the first step to a nice fitting sleeve. It is only once the armhole is shaped to fit a human body and the normal range of motion (see pgs 166-168 of my book), that the sleeve can be reshaped -because as I’ve mentioned, sleeve cap ease is bogus. The latter amounts to a work around to compensate for a poorly designed

FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this)

RELABELING GARMENTS

The regulations require that you include the following information on your labels: 1. The fiber content and the fabric’s country of origin. 2. The country of origin (where the item was manufactured) 3. The name or business responsible for marketing or handling the item. If you will be relabeling the items, you have additional

responsibilities.

TRAINING SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS PT 2 Once the operator has had a measure of success with these exercises, then training to specific jobs on fabric starts. Exercise 1 (below), helps with: Accuracy in sewing straight lines. Treadle (foot pedal) and braking control. To overcome fear of the machine. Exercise 2 (below), reinforces the skills above and helps with: CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP The sales rep in return wants a 3 year USA exclusive contract. 12% commission, $950.00 in trade room fees monthly. All Trade Show fees (Pro Rata with other lines). She wants 120 days termination with 3% paid for one year following termination. She will accept quota’s tied to the contract. She would like 1,500. advance every month. HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS One example would be gusset junctures. Note: for all views the muslin is facing and the blue is shell/self. One piece V neckline. Mark off the seam allowance at the juncture of the V on whichever piece you’ll have on top. I choose the facing. Note: I’m using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is standard for necklines and outside edges. APPAREL INDUSTRY JOBS (RECRUITERS & AGENCIES) 24/7 specializes in jobs in the apparel industry. Adkins & Associates, Fashion Headhunters. Karlyn Associates. Fashion Career Center. Precision Placements, Inc. (nice guy, sales and mktg jobs mostly) E.A.Hughes & Co. Kirk Palmer & Associates. Raskin Executive Search.

Apparel Staffing.

NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY Nick & Nora: chargeback casualty. 12. May 18, 2005. A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores. Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has

become

10 REASONS FOR SKIPPED STITCHES Item #1, Improper threading is the most common reason for skipped stitches or breaking threads. There are so many factors involved with improper threading that this alone could be it’s own post. In order, these are the most common reasons related to improper threading: The needle is threaded from the wrong side. HOW TO REMOVE SLEEVE CAP EASE Reshaping armholes is the first step to a nice fitting sleeve. It is only once the armhole is shaped to fit a human body and the normal range of motion (see pgs 166-168 of my book), that the sleeve can be reshaped -because as I’ve mentioned, sleeve cap ease is bogus. The latter amounts to a work around to compensate for a poorly designed HOW TO CREATE GRADE RULES 1 This is the first portion of the theory part on how to create grade rules (grade rules are used to size clothing). Also see antecedent entries here, here and here if you have no idea what I’m talking about.. In spite of whatever you might read here, the practice and application of grading is easy. WHAT IS A CUTTING TICKET Cutting tickets. Cut order: Cut order is the whole shooting match. It’s better defined as a purchase order with specifications for the cutting of a production run of one given style. Depending on the product complexity, you can have a cutting ticket for each fabrication used in the product. Cutting tickets are a part of the cut order.

WHAT ARE SKUS?

This is the first entry in a multi-part series. The other entries are What is a UPC code, How to issue SKUs and UPCs and Why you need your own bar codes.. All told, this topic was too lengthy to post as one entry. A SKU (pronounced skew) is a stock keeping unit used for inventory and costing purposes.

DREAM SAMPLE ROOM

Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. HOW TO GET STARTED IN SWEATER DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Full-fashioning is the process of making a sweater that is created in the pieces that it will be assembled in. It takes less yarn, but is considered a sweater type with a higher skill level, as the sweater will need to be assembled on a linking machine. Cut-and-sew sweaters are knit in large panels and cut out like with a woven garment and

sewn

WHAT IS CUTTABLE WIDTH? What is cuttable width and why does it matter? 1. Cuttable width is the measurement of fabric from side to side, less the selvedge. Usually. 2. It matters because the marker must be made to use only the inside area of the fabric. An example is the brocade above. It has a clearly defined woven edge. The cuttable width is the width of the

fabric

10 REASONS FOR SKIPPED STITCHES Item #1, Improper threading is the most common reason for skipped stitches or breaking threads. There are so many factors involved with improper threading that this alone could be it’s own post. In order, these are the most common reasons related to improper threading: The needle is threaded from the wrong side. MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Manufacturer vs. subcontractor. 13. November 21, 2007. Behind the scenes, I’ve been dealing with a huge mess -at no pay (not a complaint) but I get a post out of it and we hope this experience will be of use to you. The problem is a conflict of expectations between a manufacturer and a hired subcontractor.

FASHION BULLIES

Fashion Bullies. 22. November 13, 2007. There was an article in the Wall Street Journal last week that I thought was really sad. Fashion Bullies Attack — In Middle School (if that link doesn’t get you in, this one will) says in part: Teen and adolescent girls have long used fashion as a social weapon. In 1944, Eleanor Estes wrote “The

KEN NEEDS A PENIS

Ken needs a penis. 14. May 18, 2006. I’ve long suspected that Ken’s permanently affixed plastic underwear was the real deal breaker with Barbie. In my continuing perseveration with Barbie and Ken’s relationship problems comes this story (via Boing Boing) about Marina Bychokova, doll maker extraordinaire. In an interview with

Pixelsurgeon

FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this) CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP The sales rep in return wants a 3 year USA exclusive contract. 12% commission, $950.00 in trade room fees monthly. All Trade Show fees (Pro Rata with other lines). She wants 120 days termination with 3% paid for one year following termination. She will accept quota’s tied to the contract. She would like 1,500. advance every month.

RELABELING GARMENTS

The regulations require that you include the following information on your labels: 1. The fiber content and the fabric’s country of origin. 2. The country of origin (where the item was manufactured) 3. The name or business responsible for marketing or handling the item. If you will be relabeling the items, you have additional

responsibilities.

TRAINING SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS PT 2 Once the operator has had a measure of success with these exercises, then training to specific jobs on fabric starts. Exercise 1 (below), helps with: Accuracy in sewing straight lines. Treadle (foot pedal) and braking control. To overcome fear of the machine. Exercise 2 (below), reinforces the skills above and helps with: HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS One example would be gusset junctures. Note: for all views the muslin is facing and the blue is shell/self. One piece V neckline. Mark off the seam allowance at the juncture of the V on whichever piece you’ll have on top. I choose the facing. Note: I’m using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is standard for necklines and outside edges. APPAREL INDUSTRY JOBS (RECRUITERS & AGENCIES) 24/7 specializes in jobs in the apparel industry. Adkins & Associates, Fashion Headhunters. Karlyn Associates. Fashion Career Center. Precision Placements, Inc. (nice guy, sales and mktg jobs mostly) E.A.Hughes & Co. Kirk Palmer & Associates. Raskin Executive Search.

Apparel Staffing.

NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY Nick & Nora: chargeback casualty. 12. May 18, 2005. A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores. Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has

become

HOW TO REMOVE SLEEVE CAP EASE Reshaping armholes is the first step to a nice fitting sleeve. It is only once the armhole is shaped to fit a human body and the normal range of motion (see pgs 166-168 of my book), that the sleeve can be reshaped -because as I’ve mentioned, sleeve cap ease is bogus. The latter amounts to a work around to compensate for a poorly designed MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Manufacturer vs. subcontractor. 13. November 21, 2007. Behind the scenes, I’ve been dealing with a huge mess -at no pay (not a complaint) but I get a post out of it and we hope this experience will be of use to you. The problem is a conflict of expectations between a manufacturer and a hired subcontractor.

FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this) CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP The sales rep in return wants a 3 year USA exclusive contract. 12% commission, $950.00 in trade room fees monthly. All Trade Show fees (Pro Rata with other lines). She wants 120 days termination with 3% paid for one year following termination. She will accept quota’s tied to the contract. She would like 1,500. advance every month.

RELABELING GARMENTS

The regulations require that you include the following information on your labels: 1. The fiber content and the fabric’s country of origin. 2. The country of origin (where the item was manufactured) 3. The name or business responsible for marketing or handling the item. If you will be relabeling the items, you have additional

responsibilities.

TRAINING SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS PT 2 Once the operator has had a measure of success with these exercises, then training to specific jobs on fabric starts. Exercise 1 (below), helps with: Accuracy in sewing straight lines. Treadle (foot pedal) and braking control. To overcome fear of the machine. Exercise 2 (below), reinforces the skills above and helps with: HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS One example would be gusset junctures. Note: for all views the muslin is facing and the blue is shell/self. One piece V neckline. Mark off the seam allowance at the juncture of the V on whichever piece you’ll have on top. I choose the facing. Note: I’m using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is standard for necklines and outside edges. APPAREL INDUSTRY JOBS (RECRUITERS & AGENCIES) 24/7 specializes in jobs in the apparel industry. Adkins & Associates, Fashion Headhunters. Karlyn Associates. Fashion Career Center. Precision Placements, Inc. (nice guy, sales and mktg jobs mostly) E.A.Hughes & Co. Kirk Palmer & Associates. Raskin Executive Search.

Apparel Staffing.

NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY Nick & Nora: chargeback casualty. 12. May 18, 2005. A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores. Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has

become

HOW TO REMOVE SLEEVE CAP EASE Reshaping armholes is the first step to a nice fitting sleeve. It is only once the armhole is shaped to fit a human body and the normal range of motion (see pgs 166-168 of my book), that the sleeve can be reshaped -because as I’ve mentioned, sleeve cap ease is bogus. The latter amounts to a work around to compensate for a poorly designed MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Manufacturer vs. subcontractor. 13. November 21, 2007. Behind the scenes, I’ve been dealing with a huge mess -at no pay (not a complaint) but I get a post out of it and we hope this experience will be of use to you. The problem is a conflict of expectations between a manufacturer and a hired subcontractor. APPAREL INDUSTRY JOBS (RECRUITERS & AGENCIES) 24/7 specializes in jobs in the apparel industry. Adkins & Associates, Fashion Headhunters. Karlyn Associates. Fashion Career Center. Precision Placements, Inc. (nice guy, sales and mktg jobs mostly) E.A.Hughes & Co. Kirk Palmer & Associates. Raskin Executive Search.

Apparel Staffing.

HOW TO CREATE GRADE RULES 1 This is the first portion of the theory part on how to create grade rules (grade rules are used to size clothing). Also see antecedent entries here, here and here if you have no idea what I’m talking about.. In spite of whatever you might read here, the practice and application of grading is easy.

WHAT ARE SKUS?

This is the first entry in a multi-part series. The other entries are What is a UPC code, How to issue SKUs and UPCs and Why you need your own bar codes.. All told, this topic was too lengthy to post as one entry. A SKU (pronounced skew) is a stock keeping unit used for inventory and costing purposes. WHAT IS A CUTTING TICKET Cutting tickets. Cut order: Cut order is the whole shooting match. It’s better defined as a purchase order with specifications for the cutting of a production run of one given style. Depending on the product complexity, you can have a cutting ticket for each fabrication used in the product. Cutting tickets are a part of the cut order. HOW TO GET STARTED IN SWEATER DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Full-fashioning is the process of making a sweater that is created in the pieces that it will be assembled in. It takes less yarn, but is considered a sweater type with a higher skill level, as the sweater will need to be assembled on a linking machine. Cut-and-sew sweaters are knit in large panels and cut out like with a woven garment and

sewn

BETTER SEWING QUALITY WITH WORK INSTRUCTIONS Better sewing quality with work instructions. Keeping in mind that quality means adherence to a specification, you can create work instructions for your people to follow. These are most effective if they are simple and directed to a particular job. Work instructions are also useful as a reminder if you create them for processes you

don’t do

WHAT IS CUTTABLE WIDTH? What is cuttable width and why does it matter? 1. Cuttable width is the measurement of fabric from side to side, less the selvedge. Usually. 2. It matters because the marker must be made to use only the inside area of the fabric. An example is the brocade above. It has a clearly defined woven edge. The cuttable width is the width of the

fabric

FASHION BULLIES

Fashion Bullies. 22. November 13, 2007. There was an article in the Wall Street Journal last week that I thought was really sad. Fashion Bullies Attack — In Middle School (if that link doesn’t get you in, this one will) says in part: Teen and adolescent girls have long used fashion as a social weapon. In 1944, Eleanor Estes wrote “The MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Manufacturer vs. subcontractor. 13. November 21, 2007. Behind the scenes, I’ve been dealing with a huge mess -at no pay (not a complaint) but I get a post out of it and we hope this experience will be of use to you. The problem is a conflict of expectations between a manufacturer and a hired subcontractor.

KEN NEEDS A PENIS

Ken needs a penis. 14. May 18, 2006. I’ve long suspected that Ken’s permanently affixed plastic underwear was the real deal breaker with Barbie. In my continuing perseveration with Barbie and Ken’s relationship problems comes this story (via Boing Boing) about Marina Bychokova, doll maker extraordinaire. In an interview with

Pixelsurgeon

FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. REVIEW: GARMENT CONSTRUCTION GUIDE (INDUSTRIAL SEWING First a sketch is provided with the seam schematics. Following the illustration are 3 pages of sewing instructions, amounting to a total of 95 separate sewing steps. Some of you had asked in Industrial sewing instructions pt. 2 or maybe it was part 3, about whether or how pressing was documented in the process. These instructions include

pressing.

THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this) CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP The sales rep in return wants a 3 year USA exclusive contract. 12% commission, $950.00 in trade room fees monthly. All Trade Show fees (Pro Rata with other lines). She wants 120 days termination with 3% paid for one year following termination. She will accept quota’s tied to the contract. She would like 1,500. advance every month. HOW TO CREATE GRADE RULES 1 This is the first portion of the theory part on how to create grade rules (grade rules are used to size clothing). Also see antecedent entries here, here and here if you have no idea what I’m talking about.. In spite of whatever you might read here, the practice and application of grading is easy. FLATLOCKING COMPARED TO COVER STITCHING AND OVERLOCKING As to the difference: A coverstitch is basically 2 or 3 needle bobbin-less top stitching that provides some elasticity. It doesn’t have to be used on an overlocked (serged) seam but usually is. The back side of the seam forms a ladder pattern or similar configuration joining the lines of stitching to and fro. This is similar to the

effect you

KATHLEEN FASANELLA

Kathleen Fasanella. Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. In 2015 she opened a 5,000 sqft. fully equipped sewing factory: The

Sewing

10 REASONS FOR SKIPPED STITCHES Item #1, Improper threading is the most common reason for skipped stitches or breaking threads. There are so many factors involved with improper threading that this alone could be it’s own post. In order, these are the most common reasons related to improper threading: The needle is threaded from the wrong side. SLEEVE CAP EASE IS BOGUS Oh my god, this is an example of some sort of synchronicity, I swear to you, I spent 3 hours last night writing all the things I understand about sleeves and armscyes (and shoulders and arms) so that I could send it to you and ask you explain where I’ve gone wrong, because I still don’t believe your claim that sleeve-cap ease is never

necessary.

NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY Nick & Nora: chargeback casualty. 12. May 18, 2005. A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores. Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has

become

FASHION-INCUBATOR

by Kathleen Fasanella. Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so quickly?. REVIEW: GARMENT CONSTRUCTION GUIDE (INDUSTRIAL SEWING First a sketch is provided with the seam schematics. Following the illustration are 3 pages of sewing instructions, amounting to a total of 95 separate sewing steps. Some of you had asked in Industrial sewing instructions pt. 2 or maybe it was part 3, about whether or how pressing was documented in the process. These instructions include

pressing.

THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 2: How to Plan A Line. Manufacturing 101. Job Descriptions in the Industry. Developing Product Concepts. Determine Market Entry. Production Scheduling 101. Troubleshooting Concept Development. The Art of Ordering Fabrics. Go Broke Quick! (don’t read this) CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP The sales rep in return wants a 3 year USA exclusive contract. 12% commission, $950.00 in trade room fees monthly. All Trade Show fees (Pro Rata with other lines). She wants 120 days termination with 3% paid for one year following termination. She will accept quota’s tied to the contract. She would like 1,500. advance every month. HOW TO CREATE GRADE RULES 1 This is the first portion of the theory part on how to create grade rules (grade rules are used to size clothing). Also see antecedent entries here, here and here if you have no idea what I’m talking about.. In spite of whatever you might read here, the practice and application of grading is easy. FLATLOCKING COMPARED TO COVER STITCHING AND OVERLOCKING As to the difference: A coverstitch is basically 2 or 3 needle bobbin-less top stitching that provides some elasticity. It doesn’t have to be used on an overlocked (serged) seam but usually is. The back side of the seam forms a ladder pattern or similar configuration joining the lines of stitching to and fro. This is similar to the

effect you

KATHLEEN FASANELLA

Kathleen Fasanella. Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. In 2015 she opened a 5,000 sqft. fully equipped sewing factory: The

Sewing

10 REASONS FOR SKIPPED STITCHES Item #1, Improper threading is the most common reason for skipped stitches or breaking threads. There are so many factors involved with improper threading that this alone could be it’s own post. In order, these are the most common reasons related to improper threading: The needle is threaded from the wrong side. SLEEVE CAP EASE IS BOGUS Oh my god, this is an example of some sort of synchronicity, I swear to you, I spent 3 hours last night writing all the things I understand about sleeves and armscyes (and shoulders and arms) so that I could send it to you and ask you explain where I’ve gone wrong, because I still don’t believe your claim that sleeve-cap ease is never

necessary.

NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY Nick & Nora: chargeback casualty. 12. May 18, 2005. A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores. Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has

become

THE SEWING FACTORY SCHOOL & APPAREL MANUFACTURING BOOT Sewing Room #1. Okay! So by now you should have read the So I bought a sewing factory post and we can jump into what is going on next and that would be, a manufacturing boot camp session in this place that I’ve envisioned as a prototypically perfect sewing factory for people to visit in the event they want to learn how to set up their own factory, aka, The Sewing Factory School. HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS One example would be gusset junctures. Note: for all views the muslin is facing and the blue is shell/self. One piece V neckline. Mark off the seam allowance at the juncture of the V on whichever piece you’ll have on top. I choose the facing. Note: I’m using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is standard for necklines and outside edges.

RELABELING GARMENTS

The regulations require that you include the following information on your labels: 1. The fiber content and the fabric’s country of origin. 2. The country of origin (where the item was manufactured) 3. The name or business responsible for marketing or handling the item. If you will be relabeling the items, you have additional

responsibilities.

AN EASIER WAY TO SEW ELASTIC CASINGS Step 5, the casing is positioned under the needle for sewing. Step 6, sew and sew some more. After a bit, you’ll “run out” of elastic. You need to raise the presser foot (with needle down) and pull the elastic from the sewn portion of the casing to give you a clean sewing target. Step 7 below is but more of the same. This is the home

stretch.

WHY DO HEMS ROLL UP? Roping is indicative of uneven feeding into the folder or even if the hem is turned by hand. If the hemmed edge is round rather than straight, roping is more common because the bottom of the hem edge is actually wider (longer) at the hem fold line than at the stitch line, causing the hem to flip up. The best way to correct this kind of

defect

HOW TO HIRE A PATTERN MAKER A highly qualified (20 years of experience or more) pattern maker in Los Angeles or New York will cost about $75 an hour. Experienced professionals in second or third tier cities will charge $35-$60 an hour. In addition, there are charges for re-works which you do have to pay for most of the time.

FASHION BULLIES

Fashion Bullies. 22. November 13, 2007. There was an article in the Wall Street Journal last week that I thought was really sad. Fashion Bullies Attack — In Middle School (if that link doesn’t get you in, this one will) says in part: Teen and adolescent girls have long used fashion as a social weapon. In 1944, Eleanor Estes wrote “The MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Manufacturer vs. subcontractor. 13. November 21, 2007. Behind the scenes, I’ve been dealing with a huge mess -at no pay (not a complaint) but I get a post out of it and we hope this experience will be of use to you. The problem is a conflict of expectations between a manufacturer and a hired subcontractor. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE PREVENTION OF LEG TWIST 32 Measuring Fabric Skew (fig. 1) *----The fabric is cut following 1 filling yarn from selvage to selvage.SKEW IN HEAVY WEIGHT DENIM A fabric condition that is the result of filling yarns being angularly

displaced from

KEN NEEDS A PENIS

Ken needs a penis. 14. May 18, 2006. I’ve long suspected that Ken’s permanently affixed plastic underwear was the real deal breaker with Barbie. In my continuing perseveration with Barbie and Ken’s relationship problems comes this story (via Boing Boing) about Marina Bychokova, doll maker extraordinaire. In an interview with

Pixelsurgeon

FASHION-INCUBATOR

Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War

II.

THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 1: A Newcomer’s Guide to the Trade Introduction What is Manufacturing? Reality 101 Be Afraid. Be Very Afraid Weird Things that

No One

RELABELING GARMENTS

Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. TRAINING SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS PT 2 Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS Thanks for this tutorial Kathleen. Your tip , “tug down on the tip of the facing at the V while you’re pressing it” is SO valuable. A *little* tug when pressing any clipped and turned process (facing, welt, etc)..even if one must use a little clamp tool or tweezers to hold the bit being “tugged” (note- ‘tug’..not “pulled’) as in the case of the triangle ends of welts, makes CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP It’d be great if those of you with experience and established sales reps could help out with this question from Tish. She writes: We are a 3 year old line working with a Sales Rep who has been valuable in placing our young designer into the top boutiques and dept stores which as a result have put her in all the magazines with Paris, Jessica etc. wearing her designs. NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores.Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has become fed up over department store chargebacks to the extent that they no longer choose to manufacture

it.

KATHLEEN FASANELLA

Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. HOW TO REMOVE SLEEVE CAP EASE Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations.

FASHION-INCUBATOR

Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War

II.

THE ENTREPRENEUR’ S GUIDE TO SEWN PRODUCT MANUFACTURING Section 1: A Newcomer’s Guide to the Trade Introduction What is Manufacturing? Reality 101 Be Afraid. Be Very Afraid Weird Things that

No One

RELABELING GARMENTS

Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. TRAINING SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS PT 2 Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. HOW TO SEW V NECKLINES WITH FACINGS Thanks for this tutorial Kathleen. Your tip , “tug down on the tip of the facing at the V while you’re pressing it” is SO valuable. A *little* tug when pressing any clipped and turned process (facing, welt, etc)..even if one must use a little clamp tool or tweezers to hold the bit being “tugged” (note- ‘tug’..not “pulled’) as in the case of the triangle ends of welts, makes CONTRACT FOR A CLOTHING SALES REP It’d be great if those of you with experience and established sales reps could help out with this question from Tish. She writes: We are a 3 year old line working with a Sales Rep who has been valuable in placing our young designer into the top boutiques and dept stores which as a result have put her in all the magazines with Paris, Jessica etc. wearing her designs. NICK & NORA: CHARGEBACK CASUALTY A little bird tells me that Nick and Nora, the 20 year flagship manufacturer of high quality ladies pajamas will cease production of the popular product line which is mostly sold in department stores.Little bird stresses the line is both profitable and popular but that the company has become fed up over department store chargebacks to the extent that they no longer choose to manufacture

it.

KATHLEEN FASANELLA

Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. HOW TO REMOVE SLEEVE CAP EASE Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. HOW TO CREATE GRADE RULES 1 This is the first portion of the theory part on how to create grade rules (grade rules are used to size clothing). Also see antecedent entries here, here and here if you have no idea what I’m talking about.. In spite of whatever you might read here, the practice and application of grading is easy. SHOULD YOU GO TO FASHION SCHOOL? Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. NEEDLE FEED SEWING MACHINES Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. REVIEW: GARMENT CONSTRUCTION GUIDE (INDUSTRIAL SEWING Today I want to tell you about a great resource I have for industrial sewing. First I have to back up to explain that unbeknownst to me, the schematics and illustrations I used in Industrial sewing instructions came from the book I’m going to tell you about now. That’s not where I got them from for that post, it was an isolated reference I found on the web -without attribution. BETTER SEWING QUALITY WITH WORK INSTRUCTIONS We do a lot of samples from notes in our (theatrical) workroom – the idea being to get everyone doing things the same way. One thing I would say, though, is that I frequently re-write them with my own illustrations, because the notes use photos and it is often very difficult to see in photos things like which is the right side of the fabric, which way up the garment is etc etc. MANUFACTURER VS. SUBCONTRACTOR Kathleen started production patternmaking in 1981. Starting in 1993, she began providing consulting and engineering services to manufacturers, small companies, and startups with an emphasis on developing owner-operator domestic cut-and-sew operations. WHAT IS CUTTABLE WIDTH? What is cuttable width and why does it matter? 1. Cuttable width is the measurement of fabric from side to side, less the selvedge. Usually. 2. It matters because the marker must be made to use only the inside area of the fabric.. An example is the brocade above. HOW TO DO A SHRINKAGE TEST I asked Jennifer Ennis to write a guest entry to elaborate on the comment she made under How to calculate denim shrinkage as a guest entry because a site search doesn’t return results from comments (Timo’s comment was also useful). She agreed and this is the result. Thanks Jenn! ————-How to do a Shrinkage Test HOW TO SELECT COMMERCIAL PRESSING EQUIPMENT Wow. Way back when the world was young and dinosaurs roamed the earth, I did a stint in a Church Supply factory. In the backroom where the pressers worked, there was a torso-shaped form that the finished shirts would be placed on.

KEN NEEDS A PENIS

I’ve long suspected that Ken’s permanently affixed plastic underwear was the real deal breaker with Barbie. In my continuing perseveration with Barbie and Ken’s relationship problems comes this story (via Boing Boing) about Marina Bychokova, doll maker extraordinaire.In an interview with Pixelsurgeon, Marina explains:. The dolls are more anatomically correct than your average Barbie doll

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4 MASK SEWING TUTORIALS: MORE EFFICIENCY, LESS PAIN by Kathleen Fasanella

26

April 13, 2020

It’s crazy out there -lots of competing information, mythinformation and just plain craziness -I’m not going to go there. Still, like many of you, I wondered what I could do to help so I started watching mask sewing videos. Very quickly, I realized that the videos are all the same -or rather, that makers had the same constraints.…

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ROSIE THE RIVETER AND THE SECRET PLAN by Kathleen Fasanella

17

October 22, 2018

Take a look at Rosie the Riveter. A near myth of heroic proportions, she and her friends had to weld planes, build ships, trucks, and armaments, while millions of menfolk went off to fight in World War II. Have you ever wondered how Rosie learned to do her job so

quickly?…

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* Apparel Manufacturing Boot Camp * Lean Manufacturing SEWING CONTRACTS AND QUALITY CONTROL PT.1 by Kathleen Fasanella

4

May 15, 2017

Once upon a time, I’d written a post about sewing contracts and a few about quality control (links at close). Those were fine as these things go but lately, I’m seeing a lot of silly advice on the web. I read a particularly bad post this morning that inspired me to

clarify.…

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WORKING WITH A SEWING FACTORY PT.1 by Kathleen Fasanella

2

May 12, 2017

There is no simple, bullet point list to follow when considering your first approach to a sewing factory. Like you and your product line, every provider is unique. In the end I can only speak for my factory but I hope this will be helpful.…

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OBLIGATORY 2017 NEW YEAR’S POST by Kathleen Fasanella

13

December 31, 2016

I can’t speak for anyone but myself but I’m facing 2017 with trepidation, mostly due to the uncertainty of our political and social climate. On one hand, a proposal for the elimination or renegotiation of international trade agreements can ostensibly benefit domestic producers -but at the expense of consumers who will then have less to spend on our stuff.…

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Often described as the garment industry “blue book,” Kathleen's book is the most highly rated guide to the business. _The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing_ is guaranteed to get you off to a solid start or your money back. Many service providers will require you to read it before they’ll work with you.

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