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THE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that THE HISTORICAL SEW MONTHLY 2021 The Historical Sew Monthly 2021 is a monthly historical garment challenge. Every month in 2021 will feature a themed challenge. Sew (or knit, or crochet, or tatt, or embroider, or otherwise create) a historical garment or accessory that fits the monthly theme. HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on. WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE GARMENT BAG I like to make garment bags for my clients, and to keep my own dresses in. It makes garments easy to store and carry, and you can build pockets into the garment bags to hold belts and sashes and other accessories, so that you never spend time trying to remember where you put the rest of the outfit. Here is how to make a simple 22″ wide, 55″ long dress bag with one outside pocket. You will TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it.THE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that THE HISTORICAL SEW MONTHLY 2021 The Historical Sew Monthly 2021 is a monthly historical garment challenge. Every month in 2021 will feature a themed challenge. Sew (or knit, or crochet, or tatt, or embroider, or otherwise create) a historical garment or accessory that fits the monthly theme. HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on. WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE GARMENT BAG I like to make garment bags for my clients, and to keep my own dresses in. It makes garments easy to store and carry, and you can build pockets into the garment bags to hold belts and sashes and other accessories, so that you never spend time trying to remember where you put the rest of the outfit. Here is how to make a simple 22″ wide, 55″ long dress bag with one outside pocket. You will TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it.18TH CENTURY PURPLE
A survey of extant 18th century garments, paintings, and fashion plates showing fabrics in shades of purple.SEWING IN 1916
As part of my Fortnight in 1916 project, one of my goals was to make a garment using period techniques and my Singer 27 machine, just as a woman would have done in 1916. As you can see, I succeeded! It was quite an interesting experience, and I did learn quite a bit about sewing in the period. For the blouse pattern, I took a pattern from an original 1914-16 blouse in my collection: When I CALL FOR PATTERN TESTERS FOR A 1910S SKIRT PATTERN! The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that A VERY SWEET, VERY WHITE 1860S CHEMISE A very sweet, very white, 1860s chemise from the (slightly infamous) Simplicity 9769 Martha McCain ‘The Fashion Historian’ chemise/corset/drawers pattern. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t have bought this pattern, because I usually use period patterns, or make something based off an original item I’ve studiedor own (I know it
A SIMPLE REGENCY PETTICOAT The shape is accurate to a Regency skirt, but I made up a number of the construction techniques, including the back gathers, so maybe 40%. Hours to complete: 3 hours – a bit more time for tucks and flat felled seams. First worn: by a friend during out Sew & Eat DOING LAUNDRY IN 1916 Laundry was done in a number of ways in the 1910s. The most basic, but most labour intensive, method was to soak it in warm or hot soapy water, and then rub it vigorously on a washboard, rinse it thoroughly, and then wring it or (if you had enough money to afford one) put it through a mangler to remove the excess water.A REGENCY BONNET
The Pattern: The ‘Regency Bonnet Pattern’ was one of Lynn McMasters earlier patterns, dating back to 2013. It’s obvious from the pattern how much McMasters knows her craft as a milliner, but the pattern itself is a little disorganised, and lacks clarity in places.Some of
THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it. TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS ASTRAKHAN? Astrakhan (also spelled astrachan) is, properly speaking, the tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul (also spelled caracul) lamb. Less accurately, it can also refer to the fleece of fetal or newborn lambs from other species, or a knitted or woven fabric that imitates the looped surface. Astrakhan has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. The younger TUTORIAL: HOW TO 'ANTIQUE' CHEAP GOLD BUTTONS & JEWELLERY Using your Metallic Painters pen, roughly paint the top surface of your button/jewellery piece. Let the paint dry for 10 seconds, and the rub a paper towel across any raised surfaces on your piece, to lift a bit of paint and add dimensionality to your piece. Then set your button aside and letTHE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that THE HISTORICAL SEW MONTHLY 2021 The Historical Sew Monthly 2021 is a monthly historical garment challenge. Every month in 2021 will feature a themed challenge. Sew (or knit, or crochet, or tatt, or embroider, or otherwise create) a historical garment or accessory that fits the monthly theme. HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on. WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE GARMENT BAG I like to make garment bags for my clients, and to keep my own dresses in. It makes garments easy to store and carry, and you can build pockets into the garment bags to hold belts and sashes and other accessories, so that you never spend time trying to remember where you put the rest of the outfit. Here is how to make a simple 22″ wide, 55″ long dress bag with one outside pocket. You will TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it.THE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that THE HISTORICAL SEW MONTHLY 2021 The Historical Sew Monthly 2021 is a monthly historical garment challenge. Every month in 2021 will feature a themed challenge. Sew (or knit, or crochet, or tatt, or embroider, or otherwise create) a historical garment or accessory that fits the monthly theme. HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on. WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE GARMENT BAG I like to make garment bags for my clients, and to keep my own dresses in. It makes garments easy to store and carry, and you can build pockets into the garment bags to hold belts and sashes and other accessories, so that you never spend time trying to remember where you put the rest of the outfit. Here is how to make a simple 22″ wide, 55″ long dress bag with one outside pocket. You will TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it.18TH CENTURY PURPLE
A survey of extant 18th century garments, paintings, and fashion plates showing fabrics in shades of purple.SEWING IN 1916
As part of my Fortnight in 1916 project, one of my goals was to make a garment using period techniques and my Singer 27 machine, just as a woman would have done in 1916. As you can see, I succeeded! It was quite an interesting experience, and I did learn quite a bit about sewing in the period. For the blouse pattern, I took a pattern from an original 1914-16 blouse in my collection: When I CALL FOR PATTERN TESTERS FOR A 1910S SKIRT PATTERN! The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that A VERY SWEET, VERY WHITE 1860S CHEMISE A very sweet, very white, 1860s chemise from the (slightly infamous) Simplicity 9769 Martha McCain ‘The Fashion Historian’ chemise/corset/drawers pattern. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t have bought this pattern, because I usually use period patterns, or make something based off an original item I’ve studiedor own (I know it
A SIMPLE REGENCY PETTICOAT The shape is accurate to a Regency skirt, but I made up a number of the construction techniques, including the back gathers, so maybe 40%. Hours to complete: 3 hours – a bit more time for tucks and flat felled seams. First worn: by a friend during out Sew & Eat DOING LAUNDRY IN 1916 Laundry was done in a number of ways in the 1910s. The most basic, but most labour intensive, method was to soak it in warm or hot soapy water, and then rub it vigorously on a washboard, rinse it thoroughly, and then wring it or (if you had enough money to afford one) put it through a mangler to remove the excess water.A REGENCY BONNET
The Pattern: The ‘Regency Bonnet Pattern’ was one of Lynn McMasters earlier patterns, dating back to 2013. It’s obvious from the pattern how much McMasters knows her craft as a milliner, but the pattern itself is a little disorganised, and lacks clarity in places.Some of
THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it. TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS ASTRAKHAN? Astrakhan (also spelled astrachan) is, properly speaking, the tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul (also spelled caracul) lamb. Less accurately, it can also refer to the fleece of fetal or newborn lambs from other species, or a knitted or woven fabric that imitates the looped surface. Astrakhan has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. The younger TUTORIAL: HOW TO 'ANTIQUE' CHEAP GOLD BUTTONS & JEWELLERY Using your Metallic Painters pen, roughly paint the top surface of your button/jewellery piece. Let the paint dry for 10 seconds, and the rub a paper towel across any raised surfaces on your piece, to lift a bit of paint and add dimensionality to your piece. Then set your button aside and letTHE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on. HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for theEATING IN 1916
Baked Apple Dumplings ( another variation) NZ had a major apple overload in the autumn/winter of 1916, because a shortage of available ships kept growers from exporting their crops. Cooks were urged to incorporate apples into as many dishes as possible (note the apples in the curry), and apples featured largely in many desserts. MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it 18TH CENTURY MENSWEAR: THE WAISTCOAT 18th century menswear: the waistcoat. written by The Dreamstress. I’ve told you all about the 18th century jacket I made. Here are the construction details of the waistcoat that goes with it. The mostly finished waistcoat. The fabric is a white cotton with a slightly irregular diagonal rib woven in. The breeches are made out of the samefabric.
THE QUEST FOR REGENCY UPLIFT: J.S. BERNHARDT'S 1810 STAYS I love ‘Regency’ and Empire fashions: the high waisted silhouette of the 1790s to the late 1810s. However, my body does not. I’ve got small, firm, low-set breasts, very sloping shoulders, a relatively large square ribcage, and scoliosis. It’s a natural fit for 1910s, but not ideal for ca. 1800. Most of the bust supporting undergarments (whether they are stays, long or short, or jumps TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it.THE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on. HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for theEATING IN 1916
Baked Apple Dumplings ( another variation) NZ had a major apple overload in the autumn/winter of 1916, because a shortage of available ships kept growers from exporting their crops. Cooks were urged to incorporate apples into as many dishes as possible (note the apples in the curry), and apples featured largely in many desserts. MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it 18TH CENTURY MENSWEAR: THE WAISTCOAT 18th century menswear: the waistcoat. written by The Dreamstress. I’ve told you all about the 18th century jacket I made. Here are the construction details of the waistcoat that goes with it. The mostly finished waistcoat. The fabric is a white cotton with a slightly irregular diagonal rib woven in. The breeches are made out of the samefabric.
THE QUEST FOR REGENCY UPLIFT: J.S. BERNHARDT'S 1810 STAYS I love ‘Regency’ and Empire fashions: the high waisted silhouette of the 1790s to the late 1810s. However, my body does not. I’ve got small, firm, low-set breasts, very sloping shoulders, a relatively large square ribcage, and scoliosis. It’s a natural fit for 1910s, but not ideal for ca. 1800. Most of the bust supporting undergarments (whether they are stays, long or short, or jumps TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it. SCROOP PATTERNS ON SALE! Hey hey! Happy news! Just in case you missed the notifications elsewhere, all downloadable PDF Scroop Patterns are 20% off this week! The discount is applied automatically at checkout: no need to doanything!
RATE THE DRESS: THE NEW LOOK IN LACE, 1810S STYLE The puffed sleeves of this dress definitely owe at least part of their design to the Renaissance inspiration so common in the late 1810s. The standing frill of scalloped edging nods at an Elizabethan ruff. THE HISTORICAL SEW MONTHLY 2021 The Historical Sew Monthly 2021 is a monthly historical garment challenge. Every month in 2021 will feature a themed challenge. Sew (or knit, or crochet, or tatt, or embroider, or otherwise create) a historical garment or accessory that fits the monthly theme. A VERY SWEET, VERY WHITE 1860S CHEMISE A very sweet, very white, 1860s chemise from the (slightly infamous) Simplicity 9769 Martha McCain ‘The Fashion Historian’ chemise/corset/drawers pattern. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t have bought this pattern, because I usually use period patterns, or make something based off an original item I’ve studiedor own (I know it
TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE GARMENT BAG I like to make garment bags for my clients, and to keep my own dresses in. It makes garments easy to store and carry, and you can build pockets into the garment bags to hold belts and sashes and other accessories, so that you never spend time trying to remember where you put the rest of the outfit. Here is how to make a simple 22″ wide, 55″ long dress bag with one outside pocket. You willA SMOCK OF NETTLES
Of all the fairytales, the one that intrigued me most growing up was The Wild Swans (also known as The Swan Princes). There are many variants of the story, but basically it is about a girl (Hans Christian Andersen, in his version, calls her Elise) whose brothers are enchanted and turned into swans. In order to free them from their spell, our heroine must make each of them a shirt of stinging TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to TERMINOLOGY: RAYON, VISCOSE, ACETATE, CUPRAMMONIUM AND ALL My ‘Smooth Sewing‘ trousers for the HSF ‘Innovations‘ challenge were made of rayon (as is the 1940s aloha shirt I paired them with), so it seems high time that I do a terminology post on rayon and the other ‘semi-synthetic’ or ‘manufactured natural’ fibres. Rayon is the generic name for a whole family of fabrics made by dissolving cellulose fibres in chemicals and extruding the TERMINOLOGY: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STAYS, JUMPS I’ve already posted about the difference between swiss waists, waist cinchers, corsets & corselets. This week, I’m going back in history, and back to basics, to discuss the differences between stays, jumps & corsets. Stays, was the term used for the fully boned laces bodices worn under clothes from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th century. Before this boned TUTORIAL: HOW TO 'ANTIQUE' CHEAP GOLD BUTTONS & JEWELLERY Using your Metallic Painters pen, roughly paint the top surface of your button/jewellery piece. Let the paint dry for 10 seconds, and the rub a paper towel across any raised surfaces on your piece, to lift a bit of paint and add dimensionality to your piece. Then set your button aside and letTHE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or THE SELINA BLOUSE: THE TESTER MAKES PART I: MODERN The Selina is gorgeous in stripes! Not only is her stripe matching perfection, Astrid took a lot of care to get the Selina to fit exactly to her liking, and it shows! She made View B in Size 40 front, 38 back, and 40 peplum. She lengthened the arms by 10cm, and the overall bodice by 5cm, and added an extra 2cm to the front bodice length in a WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on.WITCHES BRITCHES
Witches britches are actually a thing. They were a peculiar Antipodean fad of the 1960s – tight mid-thigh knit knickers with lace trimmed hems (think bike shorts with rows of ruffles or lace at the bottom) meant to be worn under miniskirts and seen when you bent over. They were apparently part of the historical revivalism in fashion at the TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to RE-MAKE & RE-USE: HOW TO TURN OLD FLAT SHEETS INTO FITTEDDIY FLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEETS ONLYFITTED AND FLAT SHEETS CONNECTEDFITTED BOTTOM SHEETS ONLYPATTERN FOR MAKING FITTEDSHEETS
Version A Top Assembly: You’ll be sewing the big top piece to the narrow side pieces, turning the corner at the short ends, to form the top and bottom of the fitted sheet. Start by sewing a short end of one Piece B to the long side of Piece A. 1/2″/1.5cm* from the end of the short side of Piece B, sink your needle, and turn the corner of THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it. TERMINOLOGY: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STAYS, JUMPS I’ve already posted about the difference between swiss waists, waist cinchers, corsets & corselets. This week, I’m going back in history, and back to basics, to discuss the differences between stays, jumps & corsets. Stays, was the term used for the fully boned laces bodices worn under clothes from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th century. Before this bonedTHE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or THE SELINA BLOUSE: THE TESTER MAKES PART I: MODERN The Selina is gorgeous in stripes! Not only is her stripe matching perfection, Astrid took a lot of care to get the Selina to fit exactly to her liking, and it shows! She made View B in Size 40 front, 38 back, and 40 peplum. She lengthened the arms by 10cm, and the overall bodice by 5cm, and added an extra 2cm to the front bodice length in a WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on.WITCHES BRITCHES
Witches britches are actually a thing. They were a peculiar Antipodean fad of the 1960s – tight mid-thigh knit knickers with lace trimmed hems (think bike shorts with rows of ruffles or lace at the bottom) meant to be worn under miniskirts and seen when you bent over. They were apparently part of the historical revivalism in fashion at the TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to RE-MAKE & RE-USE: HOW TO TURN OLD FLAT SHEETS INTO FITTEDDIY FLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEETS ONLYFITTED AND FLAT SHEETS CONNECTEDFITTED BOTTOM SHEETS ONLYPATTERN FOR MAKING FITTEDSHEETS
Version A Top Assembly: You’ll be sewing the big top piece to the narrow side pieces, turning the corner at the short ends, to form the top and bottom of the fitted sheet. Start by sewing a short end of one Piece B to the long side of Piece A. 1/2″/1.5cm* from the end of the short side of Piece B, sink your needle, and turn the corner of THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it. TERMINOLOGY: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STAYS, JUMPS I’ve already posted about the difference between swiss waists, waist cinchers, corsets & corselets. This week, I’m going back in history, and back to basics, to discuss the differences between stays, jumps & corsets. Stays, was the term used for the fully boned laces bodices worn under clothes from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th century. Before this boned SCROOP PATTERNS ON SALE! Hey hey! Happy news! Just in case you missed the notifications elsewhere, all downloadable PDF Scroop Patterns are 20% off this week! The discount is applied automatically at checkout: no need to doanything!
RATE THE DRESS: THE NEW LOOK IN LACE, 1810S STYLE The puffed sleeves of this dress definitely owe at least part of their design to the Renaissance inspiration so common in the late 1810s. The standing frill of scalloped edging nods at an Elizabethan ruff. PORTFOLIO: PALLAS AND STOLA Inspiration and Sources: A 1st century CE palla and stola for a fashionable young Pompeiian matron, as seen in the Pompeiian art below. The Dress Diary: Dyeing the fabric Construction and the finished ensemble The first wearing Fabric and Materials: Mauve polished wool, and hand-dyed aqua wool gauze. Metal and shell button fibulae Research: Stola Stola Pallium Fibula Gorsline, Douglas. What MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS BLONDE LACE? If not, wonder no more. ‘Blonde’ is the term used to describe the natural colour of undyed silk, and blonde lace was originally the name for a specific style of continuous bobbin lace made in France (primarily Chantilly, Caen & Bayeux) from natural, undyed silk thread imported from China. Evening dress trimmed with blonde lace, St A TALE OF THREE TEES: HOW TO PICK FABRICS FOR SUCCESSFUL I teach sewing classes, and one of the most popular classes I teach is T-shirts, which covers the basics of sewing with knit fabrics, and some of the trickier techniques you use in T-shirts. T-shirts aren’t hard to sew: I sew them up in batches of three in under four hours for the lot. But being easy to sew, and getting a successful T-shirt, very much depends on picking the right fabric for TERMINOLOGY: RAYON, VISCOSE, ACETATE, CUPRAMMONIUM AND ALL My ‘Smooth Sewing‘ trousers for the HSF ‘Innovations‘ challenge were made of rayon (as is the 1940s aloha shirt I paired them with), so it seems high time that I do a terminology post on rayon and the other ‘semi-synthetic’ or ‘manufactured natural’ fibres. Rayon is the generic name for a whole family of fabrics made by dissolving cellulose fibres in chemicals and extruding the TERMINOLOGY: FOURCHETTE, QUIRKS AND OTHER GLOVE TERMS A forked strip of material forming the sides of two adjacent fingers of a glove. In other words, this bit: It is from the French, for forked, because a fourchette is forked, and allows the fingers to fork. Glove (with fourchettes and quirks), English, ca. 1610, MAKING AN 18TH CENTURY FUR MUFF Once I’d figure out a design for an 18th century fur muff that seemed historically plausible (clearly it wasn’t going to be perfectly accurate, as I was using a repurposed 1940s fox fur sleeve as my base) it was time to sew. To start out, I had to deconstruct the sleeve I was making the muff from. I had assumed, based on the striped effect of the sleeve, that it was formed of fairly wideTHE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or THE SELINA BLOUSE: THE TESTER MAKES PART I: MODERN The Selina is gorgeous in stripes! Not only is her stripe matching perfection, Astrid took a lot of care to get the Selina to fit exactly to her liking, and it shows! She made View B in Size 40 front, 38 back, and 40 peplum. She lengthened the arms by 10cm, and the overall bodice by 5cm, and added an extra 2cm to the front bodice length in a WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on.WITCHES BRITCHES
Witches britches are actually a thing. They were a peculiar Antipodean fad of the 1960s – tight mid-thigh knit knickers with lace trimmed hems (think bike shorts with rows of ruffles or lace at the bottom) meant to be worn under miniskirts and seen when you bent over. They were apparently part of the historical revivalism in fashion at the TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to RE-MAKE & RE-USE: HOW TO TURN OLD FLAT SHEETS INTO FITTEDDIY FLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEETS ONLYFITTED AND FLAT SHEETS CONNECTEDFITTED BOTTOM SHEETS ONLYPATTERN FOR MAKING FITTEDSHEETS
Version A Top Assembly: You’ll be sewing the big top piece to the narrow side pieces, turning the corner at the short ends, to form the top and bottom of the fitted sheet. Start by sewing a short end of one Piece B to the long side of Piece A. 1/2″/1.5cm* from the end of the short side of Piece B, sink your needle, and turn the corner of THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it. TERMINOLOGY: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STAYS, JUMPS I’ve already posted about the difference between swiss waists, waist cinchers, corsets & corselets. This week, I’m going back in history, and back to basics, to discuss the differences between stays, jumps & corsets. Stays, was the term used for the fully boned laces bodices worn under clothes from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th century. Before this bonedTHE DREAMSTRESS
The Pattern: A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill. The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist. The gathered shape means that HOW TO GET STARTED IN HISTORIC COSTUMING First, choose what you want to make: That’s pretty obvious! But it can be a bit overwhelming. The three main strategies that people use to get started are: Pick an era, and make a complete outfit for that era, from the inside out. Pick a simple item that can be used for multiple eras, and start with that. Just make the pretty dress, and hope it fits once you make proper undergarments (or THE SELINA BLOUSE: THE TESTER MAKES PART I: MODERN The Selina is gorgeous in stripes! Not only is her stripe matching perfection, Astrid took a lot of care to get the Selina to fit exactly to her liking, and it shows! She made View B in Size 40 front, 38 back, and 40 peplum. She lengthened the arms by 10cm, and the overall bodice by 5cm, and added an extra 2cm to the front bodice length in a WHAT TO WEAR TO A GARDEN PARTY IN 1922 Next week is the Hamilton Gardens’ Mansfield Garden Party, and I’ll be speaking on garden party fashions in Mansfield’s life at the Glory Days Garden Party Salon. The Hamilton Gardens have chosen to set the Mansfield Garden party in 1922, the year Mansfield’s story was published (it came out in early Feb, 1922 – and Mansfield had been living with Northern Hemisphere winters for the A SIMPLE REGENCY CHEMISE A simple Regency chemise. written by The Dreamstress. One of my goals for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, both 2013 & 2014, has been to expand my Regency wardrobe. So far, progress has been slow. I’ve made mitts, and my 1813 Kashmiri dress is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, but my wrap corset a la paresseus is a disappointment on.WITCHES BRITCHES
Witches britches are actually a thing. They were a peculiar Antipodean fad of the 1960s – tight mid-thigh knit knickers with lace trimmed hems (think bike shorts with rows of ruffles or lace at the bottom) meant to be worn under miniskirts and seen when you bent over. They were apparently part of the historical revivalism in fashion at the TUTORIAL: HOW TO DYE LEATHER SHOES & HANDBAGS My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it. I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to colour leather shoes, because that can also be done. Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to RE-MAKE & RE-USE: HOW TO TURN OLD FLAT SHEETS INTO FITTEDDIY FLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEET TO FITTEDFLAT SHEETS ONLYFITTED AND FLAT SHEETS CONNECTEDFITTED BOTTOM SHEETS ONLYPATTERN FOR MAKING FITTEDSHEETS
Version A Top Assembly: You’ll be sewing the big top piece to the narrow side pieces, turning the corner at the short ends, to form the top and bottom of the fitted sheet. Start by sewing a short end of one Piece B to the long side of Piece A. 1/2″/1.5cm* from the end of the short side of Piece B, sink your needle, and turn the corner of THE RETURN OF AN OLD FRIEND: THE JANOME SW 2018E / NEW The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022. written by The Dreamstress. I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday. It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it. TERMINOLOGY: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STAYS, JUMPS I’ve already posted about the difference between swiss waists, waist cinchers, corsets & corselets. This week, I’m going back in history, and back to basics, to discuss the differences between stays, jumps & corsets. Stays, was the term used for the fully boned laces bodices worn under clothes from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th century. Before this boned SCROOP PATTERNS ON SALE! Hey hey! Happy news! Just in case you missed the notifications elsewhere, all downloadable PDF Scroop Patterns are 20% off this week! The discount is applied automatically at checkout: no need to doanything!
RATE THE DRESS: THE NEW LOOK IN LACE, 1810S STYLE The puffed sleeves of this dress definitely owe at least part of their design to the Renaissance inspiration so common in the late 1810s. The standing frill of scalloped edging nods at an Elizabethan ruff. PORTFOLIO: PALLAS AND STOLA Inspiration and Sources: A 1st century CE palla and stola for a fashionable young Pompeiian matron, as seen in the Pompeiian art below. The Dress Diary: Dyeing the fabric Construction and the finished ensemble The first wearing Fabric and Materials: Mauve polished wool, and hand-dyed aqua wool gauze. Metal and shell button fibulae Research: Stola Stola Pallium Fibula Gorsline, Douglas. What MORE TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS A PARDESSUS? Continuing on from my post about guimpes, I’ve been noticing all sorts of costuming words that I see, and can guess what they mean, but never properly research. My latest word is pardessus. V&E posted a gorgeous 1874 pardessus pattern that started my research. Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. We can see the term, or variants of it TUTORIAL: HOW TO TURN A STRAW SUNHAT INTO AN 18TH CENTURY Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergére style hat. It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed, woven straw hat. It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be TERMINOLOGY: WHAT IS BLONDE LACE? If not, wonder no more. ‘Blonde’ is the term used to describe the natural colour of undyed silk, and blonde lace was originally the name for a specific style of continuous bobbin lace made in France (primarily Chantilly, Caen & Bayeux) from natural, undyed silk thread imported from China. Evening dress trimmed with blonde lace, St A TALE OF THREE TEES: HOW TO PICK FABRICS FOR SUCCESSFUL I teach sewing classes, and one of the most popular classes I teach is T-shirts, which covers the basics of sewing with knit fabrics, and some of the trickier techniques you use in T-shirts. T-shirts aren’t hard to sew: I sew them up in batches of three in under four hours for the lot. But being easy to sew, and getting a successful T-shirt, very much depends on picking the right fabric for TERMINOLOGY: RAYON, VISCOSE, ACETATE, CUPRAMMONIUM AND ALL My ‘Smooth Sewing‘ trousers for the HSF ‘Innovations‘ challenge were made of rayon (as is the 1940s aloha shirt I paired them with), so it seems high time that I do a terminology post on rayon and the other ‘semi-synthetic’ or ‘manufactured natural’ fibres. Rayon is the generic name for a whole family of fabrics made by dissolving cellulose fibres in chemicals and extruding the TERMINOLOGY: FOURCHETTE, QUIRKS AND OTHER GLOVE TERMS A forked strip of material forming the sides of two adjacent fingers of a glove. In other words, this bit: It is from the French, for forked, because a fourchette is forked, and allows the fingers to fork. Glove (with fourchettes and quirks), English, ca. 1610, MAKING AN 18TH CENTURY FUR MUFF Once I’d figure out a design for an 18th century fur muff that seemed historically plausible (clearly it wasn’t going to be perfectly accurate, as I was using a repurposed 1940s fox fur sleeve as my base) it was time to sew. To start out, I had to deconstruct the sleeve I was making the muff from. I had assumed, based on the striped effect of the sleeve, that it was formed of fairly wideTHE DREAMSTRESS
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SCROOP PATTERNS ON SALE! Published by The Dreamstress Hey hey! Happy news! Just in case you missed the notifications elsewhere, all downloadable PDF Scroop Patterns are 20% off thisweek!
The discount is applied automatically at checkout: no need to doanything!
Not only are patterns on sale (the first time I’ve done a general sale since the launch of the Amalia Jacketand
the Selina Blouse!
),
but the Mahina Cardiganis back
after a little hiatus. The sale ends Saturday 5 June, 11:59pm, NZ Time Happy shopping, happy sewing!June 1, 2021
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RATE THE DRESS: BUSTLE ERA HISTORICISM Published by The Dreamstress Life’s been a little hectic for me lately, and unfortunately blogging hasn’t been a top priority. I can’t promise I’ll be able to get back to a regular schedule right away, but the worst of the stresses have been lifted. Hopefully life, and blogging, will be a little more stable in the near future. The last Rate the Dress I posted was so practical and timeless that a number of you mentioned that you’d happily wear it today. This week’s dress is very of its time, although it heavily references another era, and would definitely make most modern activities a little tricky! LAST WEEK: A 1910S DAY DRESS WITH TOUCHES OF COLOUR The day dress was very popular. At worst you found it dignified but not particularly interesting, at best you were wildly in love with it and wanted; to wear it everyday/recreate it/a pattern of it. The only real criticism it received was for the collar and collar colour (say that three times fast!). You weren’t convinced by the shape, or the mix of hues. THE TOTAL: 8.9 OUT OF 10 Not quite as fabulous as the banyan, but an impressive ratingnonetheless.
This week: an 1870s dress with 18th century inspiration: Since the last Rate the Dress was practical and wearable, here’s one that’s just a little bit frivolous. Dress in two parts, 1886, silk, Nicholson and Wordley of Camden Town, London Fashion Museum Bath Historicism was wildly fashionable in the late 19th century. Couturiers like Worth borrowed liberally from a whole range of eras: Elizabethan ruffs, Renaissance slashing, and 18th century engageantes all make appearances in Victorian dress. This week’s dress is based on the 18th century, with the aforementioned engageante inspired sleeves, a laced stomacher effect front, and a neckline that references the low square necklines of the Georgian era, and the crossover lace fichu seen in some portraits (like this one of Marie Kunigunde of Saxony,and this one of
Madame Sophie of France,
and this one of Mary Little, Lady Carr).
Dress in two parts, 1886, silk, Nicholson and Wordley of Camden Town, London, Fashion Museum Bath It also has an aproned overskirt that resembles the picked up aprons seen in 18th century pastoralist art and portraits (like this one of Mary, Countess of Howe),
and a bustled skirt that hints at Georgian picked-up skirts. Despite all this, I don’t think it’s a costume: simply a very fanciful dress. Compared to other fancy dress of the era it’s too subdued, and there are too many other examples of equally fanciful historicism inspired garments.
What do you think? Does this example of 1880s historybounding-meets-everyday-Disney-princess make your heart happy? RATE THE DRESS ON A SCALE OF 1 TO 10 A reminder about rating – feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment. Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting. It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.June 1, 2021
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CARTWHEELS IN CORSETS, OR PROOF THAT STAYS DON’T STOP YOU FROMMOVING
Published by The Dreamstress One of the things that people who have never worn a properly fitted corset or pair of stays say is “Oh, they are so confining andrestrictive”.
Properly made, they really aren’t!Proof?
Back in October when Stella and Priscilla and I had fun playingGeorgian dress ups
,
Priscilla wore these Augusta Stays under her Georgian gentleman’s outfit. I was photographing Stella looking all dreamy and gorgeous… And Priscilla decided to photobomb us…by literally cartwheeling in! So yeah, if you can do a cartwheel into a handstand in stays and heels, you can definitely move in them!May 30, 2021
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Aloha! I'm Leimomi Oakes, a textile and fashion historian, sewing teacher, writer, speaker, and a little bit of everything else. Join me for fashion, history, mad sewentist adventures, and, of course, Felicity the cat! Click to learn more.FOLLOW ME
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