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LINKS | ISTANBUL EATS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace.SULTANAHMET
Şenol Erol is trying to remain optimistic about running the last esnaf lokantası in Sultanahmet, where the market seems to demand tourist traps over traditional tradesmen’s restaurants. “I guess that makes us unique, doing things the old way,” he says, as if this vintage eatery needed a tagline. KOKOREC | ISTANBUL EATS Ali Usta Kokoreç: Gut Master no responses - Posted 08.21.12 Recently, while continuing our research into how kokoreç (grilled lamb intestines) became a fast-food staple in Istanbul, we were told by our favorite kelleci (vendor of cooked sheep’s head), Muammer Usta,TOP 5 STREET FOODS
Istanbul’s Top 5 Street Foods: #1 – Sabırtaşı’s İçli Köfte 5 responses - Posted 12.04.09 Editors's note: This is the final installment in our (highly subjective) look at Istanbul's top fivestreet foods.
DUMPLINGS | ISTANBUL EATS Café Niko: Goodbye, Lari no responses - Posted 09.10.12 In a desk drawer at Istanbul Eats HQ is an envelope of leftovers from days when life was less sedentary: Tajik somoni, Kyrgyz som, Cypriot pounds, a wad of Macedonian denar and a small stack of Georgian lari. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE TURKISH WINE SCENE Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace.TOP | ISTANBUL EATS
Mutfak Dili: Tradesmen’s Paradise 1 response - Posted 09.18.09 Istanbul Eats lunch hunting tip #1: Wander into one of Istanbul’s numerous districts of small commerce and find yourself on a small street with a shoe cobbler, a knife sharpener and hardware shops. ISTANBUL'S MIGRANT KITCHENS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. FINALLY, A TURKISH BUBBLY WORTH TALKING ABOUT A review of a standout Turkish sparkling wine. Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarmingpace.
BREAKFAST | ISTANBUL EATS Istanbul Eats on the Road: Breakfast in Bursa. no responses - Posted 08.20.10. With all of the hype around Bursa’s claim to fame, the İskender kebab, you’d think Bursans persisted on a diet of thinly sliced döner, pide, tomato sauce and frothy melted butter. But in between the spinning meat-sicles, the very icon of Turkish fast food,the
LINKS | ISTANBUL EATS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace.SULTANAHMET
Şenol Erol is trying to remain optimistic about running the last esnaf lokantası in Sultanahmet, where the market seems to demand tourist traps over traditional tradesmen’s restaurants. “I guess that makes us unique, doing things the old way,” he says, as if this vintage eatery needed a tagline. KOKOREC | ISTANBUL EATS Ali Usta Kokoreç: Gut Master no responses - Posted 08.21.12 Recently, while continuing our research into how kokoreç (grilled lamb intestines) became a fast-food staple in Istanbul, we were told by our favorite kelleci (vendor of cooked sheep’s head), Muammer Usta,TOP 5 STREET FOODS
Istanbul’s Top 5 Street Foods: #1 – Sabırtaşı’s İçli Köfte 5 responses - Posted 12.04.09 Editors's note: This is the final installment in our (highly subjective) look at Istanbul's top fivestreet foods.
DUMPLINGS | ISTANBUL EATS Café Niko: Goodbye, Lari no responses - Posted 09.10.12 In a desk drawer at Istanbul Eats HQ is an envelope of leftovers from days when life was less sedentary: Tajik somoni, Kyrgyz som, Cypriot pounds, a wad of Macedonian denar and a small stack of Georgian lari. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE TURKISH WINE SCENE Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace.TOP | ISTANBUL EATS
Mutfak Dili: Tradesmen’s Paradise 1 response - Posted 09.18.09 Istanbul Eats lunch hunting tip #1: Wander into one of Istanbul’s numerous districts of small commerce and find yourself on a small street with a shoe cobbler, a knife sharpener and hardware shops. ISTANBUL'S MIGRANT KITCHENS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. FINALLY, A TURKISH BUBBLY WORTH TALKING ABOUT A review of a standout Turkish sparkling wine. Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarmingpace.
ISTANBUL'S MIGRANT KITCHENS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. UIGHUR CUISINE IN ISTANBUL Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. BREAKFAST | ISTANBUL EATS Istanbul Eats on the Road: Breakfast in Bursa. no responses - Posted 08.20.10. With all of the hype around Bursa’s claim to fame, the İskender kebab, you’d think Bursans persisted on a diet of thinly sliced döner, pide, tomato sauce and frothy melted butter. But in between the spinning meat-sicles, the very icon of Turkish fast food,the
SULTANAHMET
Şenol Erol is trying to remain optimistic about running the last esnaf lokantası in Sultanahmet, where the market seems to demand tourist traps over traditional tradesmen’s restaurants. “I guess that makes us unique, doing things the old way,” he says, as if this vintage eatery needed a tagline. KOKOREC | ISTANBUL EATS Ali Usta Kokoreç: Gut Master no responses - Posted 08.21.12 Recently, while continuing our research into how kokoreç (grilled lamb intestines) became a fast-food staple in Istanbul, we were told by our favorite kelleci (vendor of cooked sheep’s head), Muammer Usta,TOP 5 STREET FOODS
Istanbul’s Top 5 Street Foods: #1 – Sabırtaşı’s İçli Köfte 5 responses - Posted 12.04.09 Editors's note: This is the final installment in our (highly subjective) look at Istanbul's top fivestreet foods.
DUMPLINGS | ISTANBUL EATS Café Niko: Goodbye, Lari no responses - Posted 09.10.12 In a desk drawer at Istanbul Eats HQ is an envelope of leftovers from days when life was less sedentary: Tajik somoni, Kyrgyz som, Cypriot pounds, a wad of Macedonian denar and a small stack of Georgian lari. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE TURKISH WINE SCENE Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace.TOP | ISTANBUL EATS
Mutfak Dili: Tradesmen’s Paradise 1 response - Posted 09.18.09 Istanbul Eats lunch hunting tip #1: Wander into one of Istanbul’s numerous districts of small commerce and find yourself on a small street with a shoe cobbler, a knife sharpener and hardware shops.BEST DINNER
Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. ISTANBUL'S MIGRANT KITCHENS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. UIGHUR CUISINE IN ISTANBUL Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. BREAKFAST | ISTANBUL EATS Istanbul Eats on the Road: Breakfast in Bursa. no responses - Posted 08.20.10. With all of the hype around Bursa’s claim to fame, the İskender kebab, you’d think Bursans persisted on a diet of thinly sliced döner, pide, tomato sauce and frothy melted butter. But in between the spinning meat-sicles, the very icon of Turkish fast food,the
SULTANAHMET
Şenol Erol is trying to remain optimistic about running the last esnaf lokantası in Sultanahmet, where the market seems to demand tourist traps over traditional tradesmen’s restaurants. “I guess that makes us unique, doing things the old way,” he says, as if this vintage eatery needed a tagline. KOKOREC | ISTANBUL EATS Ali Usta Kokoreç: Gut Master no responses - Posted 08.21.12 Recently, while continuing our research into how kokoreç (grilled lamb intestines) became a fast-food staple in Istanbul, we were told by our favorite kelleci (vendor of cooked sheep’s head), Muammer Usta,TOP 5 STREET FOODS
Istanbul’s Top 5 Street Foods: #1 – Sabırtaşı’s İçli Köfte 5 responses - Posted 12.04.09 Editors's note: This is the final installment in our (highly subjective) look at Istanbul's top fivestreet foods.
DUMPLINGS | ISTANBUL EATS Café Niko: Goodbye, Lari no responses - Posted 09.10.12 In a desk drawer at Istanbul Eats HQ is an envelope of leftovers from days when life was less sedentary: Tajik somoni, Kyrgyz som, Cypriot pounds, a wad of Macedonian denar and a small stack of Georgian lari. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE TURKISH WINE SCENE Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace.TOP | ISTANBUL EATS
Mutfak Dili: Tradesmen’s Paradise 1 response - Posted 09.18.09 Istanbul Eats lunch hunting tip #1: Wander into one of Istanbul’s numerous districts of small commerce and find yourself on a small street with a shoe cobbler, a knife sharpener and hardware shops.BEST DINNER
Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. ISTANBUL'S MIGRANT KITCHENS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. UIGHUR CUISINE IN ISTANBUL Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. BREAKFAST | ISTANBUL EATS Istanbul Eats on the Road: Breakfast in Bursa. no responses - Posted 08.20.10. With all of the hype around Bursa’s claim to fame, the İskender kebab, you’d think Bursans persisted on a diet of thinly sliced döner, pide, tomato sauce and frothy melted butter. But in between the spinning meat-sicles, the very icon of Turkish fast food,the
SULTANAHMET
Şenol Erol is trying to remain optimistic about running the last esnaf lokantası in Sultanahmet, where the market seems to demand tourist traps over traditional tradesmen’s restaurants. “I guess that makes us unique, doing things the old way,” he says, as if this vintage eatery needed a tagline. KOKOREC | ISTANBUL EATS Ali Usta Kokoreç: Gut Master no responses - Posted 08.21.12 Recently, while continuing our research into how kokoreç (grilled lamb intestines) became a fast-food staple in Istanbul, we were told by our favorite kelleci (vendor of cooked sheep’s head), Muammer Usta,UIGHUR CUISINE
Lagmania: Eating with the Uighurs of Zeytinburnu 5 responses - Posted 07.11.11 (Editor’s Note: In almost a decade of intrepid eating in Istanbul, we still miss the immigrant community restaurants we know from the American big cities where language barriers and foreign customs make a lunch into a real adventure. DUMPLINGS | ISTANBUL EATS Café Niko: Goodbye, Lari no responses - Posted 09.10.12 In a desk drawer at Istanbul Eats HQ is an envelope of leftovers from days when life was less sedentary: Tajik somoni, Kyrgyz som, Cypriot pounds, a wad of Macedonian denar and a small stack of Georgian lari. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE TURKISH WINE SCENE Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace.BEST DINNER
Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. ISTANBUL'S MIGRANT KITCHENS Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. UIGHUR CUISINE IN ISTANBUL Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. FINALLY, A TURKISH BUBBLY WORTH TALKING ABOUT A review of a standout Turkish sparkling wine. Recent Posts. Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatya no responses - Posted 05.08.18 That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarmingpace.
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HANGING ON TO HISTORY: EDIBLE NOSTALGIA IN SAMATYAFeatures
That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. First, there’s the question of its name. Occupying a stretch of the Marmara Sea and squeezed between the old city walls and Kumkapı, an area home to a rotating cast of eclectic restaurants,
the neighborhood still goes by its Greek name (Ψαμάθια or _psamathia_, likely derived from the Greek word _psamathos_, meaning sand) even though it was rechristened as Kocamustafapaşa after the foundation of the Turkish Republic. Perhaps more importantly, it’s imbued with a certain type of nostalgia. For many Turks, the neighborhood is best known as the backdrop of _İkinci Bahar_, a _dizi_ (television series) centered on the lives of a kebab restaurant owner and his female meze cook that aired in the late 1990s and early 2000s. But going back even further, many associate the area with Istanbul’s Armenian population: Armenians were settled in Samatya and neighboring Kumkapı as part of Fatih Sultan Mehmed’s efforts to repopulate the city after his conquest in 1453. Both districts still boast a number of Armenian churches, although it is believed that only around 60,000 Armenians reside in Istanbul today. Read the rest of this feature on Culinary Backstreets.
In case you didn’t know, Istanbul Eats now lives over at Culinary Backstreets. Same great culinary walks, same great culinary writing. You’ll be redirected there in a few seconds!*
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* Hanging On to History: Edible Nostalgia in Samatyano responses
- Posted 05.08.18
That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. First, there’s the question of its name. Occupying a stretch of the Marmara Sea and squeezed between the old city walls and Kumkapı, an area home to a rotating cast of eclectic restaurants, the neighborhoodstill ... continue
* Spring Surprises: Skewering the First Fruits in Istanbulno responses
- Posted 04.25.18
It was the first of April and an absolutely pristine Istanbul spring day, the kind where one can break a slight sweat walking up a hill then catch a cool breeze in a nearby patch of shade. Returning to the city from a lovely weekend on Büyükada, we were smitten with spring and wanted to indulge in its finest offerings. In ... continue * Farewell, Pando: An Istanbul Culinary Legend Passes Onno responses
- Posted 04.16.18
It’s Saturday around lunchtime and business as usual in the bustling Beşiktaş Çarşı neighborhood, as crowds of mostly younger people fill the narrow streets. Down on Mumcu Bakkal Sokak, a pedestrian-only street lined with miniscule shops, a line around the block has been formed by those eager to get into one of the city’s best döner spots. For many of those ... continue * Bağdat Ocakbaşı: Licensed to Grillno responses
- Posted 04.09.18
Istanbul’s T1 tramway is relatively pleasant if you can find a seat, but borders on unbearable if you are on your feet. Back in 2015, we wrote about a trip we took from the line’s first stop all the way to one of its last, which lies way out in the district of Güngören. By the time the tram has made ... continue * Dose & Istos Café: Greek Revivalno responses
- Posted 03.30.18
A café at its best is so much more than the sum of its parts: it’s a place where people can easily mingle, share ideas, and dertleşmek, or commiserate over their troubles, all while imbibing caffeine. At the same time, it’s a place where visitors might feel an invisible thread of common beliefs connecting them, an unspoken camaraderie, even if ... continue * Back to the Land: Urban Turks Tackle Rural Lifeno responses
- Posted 03.23.18
When Buket Ulukut first moved from Istanbul to a rural plot of land in the foothills of the Taurus Mountains in southern Turkey, she was leading a double life. “I’d be taking calls from clients in Europe while out amidst the rows of peppers and eggplants, hoping they didn’t hear the rooster crowing in the background,” says Ulukut, who worked in ... continue * Semt Pazarları, Civic Life Perfectedno responses
- Posted 03.09.18
“Two kilos five liraaa! Two kilos five liraaa!” bellowed a young and exuberant vendor of tomatoes to the ongoing stream of frugal-minded shoppers making their way through the snaking Tarlabaşı Sunday Market. Hundreds of sellers of fresh produce, dairy, seafood, kitchenware, clothing, smuggled tobacco, jewelry, fresh baked goods and numerous other items set up side by side in the central Istanbul ... continueTAGS
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FEATURES _ - 2018-04-25- COMMENT
_
SPRING SURPRISES: SKEWERING THE FIRST FRUITS IN ISTANBUL It was the first of April and an absolutely pristine Istanbul spring day, the kind where one can break a slight sweat walking up a hill then catch a cool breeze in a nearby patch of shade. ... continue FEATURES _ - 2018-04-16- COMMENT
_
FAREWELL, PANDO: AN ISTANBUL CULINARY LEGEND PASSES ON It’s Saturday around lunchtime and business as usual in the bustling Beşiktaş Çarşı neighborhood, as crowds of mostly younger people fill the narrow streets. Down on Mumcu Bakkal Sokak, a pedestrian-only street lined with miniscule shops, a ... continueREVIEWS (EATS) _ -
2018-04-09 - COMMENT_
BAĞDAT OCAKBAŞI: LICENSED TO GRILL Istanbul’s T1 tramway is relatively pleasant if you can find a seat, but borders on unbearable if you are on your feet. Back in 2015, we wrote about a trip we took from the line’s first stop all ...continue
REVIEWS (EATS) _ -
2018-03-30 - COMMENT_
DOSE & ISTOS CAFÉ: GREEK REVIVAL A café at its best is so much more than the sum of its parts: it’s a place where people can easily mingle, share ideas, and dertleşmek, or commiserate over their troubles, all while imbibing caffeine. At... continue
OUT OF ISTANBUL
_ - 2018-03-23 - COMMENT_
BACK TO THE LAND: URBAN TURKS TACKLE RURAL LIFE When Buket Ulukut first moved from Istanbul to a rural plot of land in the foothills of the Taurus Mountains in southern Turkey, she was leading a double life. “I’d be taking calls from clients in Europewhile ... continue
FEATURES _ - 2018-03-09- COMMENT
_
SEMT PAZARLARI, CIVIC LIFE PERFECTED “Two kilos five liraaa! Two kilos five liraaa!” bellowed a young and exuberant vendor of tomatoes to the ongoing stream of frugal-minded shoppers making their way through the snaking Tarlabaşı Sunday Market. Hundreds of sellers of fresh produce, ...continue
FEATURES _ - 2018-01-29- COMMENT
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ISTANBUL: STATE OF THE STOMACH 2018 Groaning sounds emanated from the other end of the line when we told a friend the location of our dining plans for the night. The spot, a rowdy, charming dive specializing in Bosnian-style mezes and grilledmeats, ... continue
OUT OF ISTANBUL
_ - 2018-01-17 - COMMENT_
HOT TICKET TO HATAY: Q&A WITH ROBYN ECKHARDT In the years of research for their new cookbook, Istanbul & Beyond, author Robyn Eckhardt and photographer David Hagerman became well acquainted with Anatolia and the distinct cultural identities, landscapes and, of course, cuisines that can be ... continue FEATURES _ - 2017-12-14- COMMENT
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BEST BITES 2017: ISTANBUL After an awful 2016 punctuated by bomb attacks and a failed coup attempt, Istanbulites were clinging to the desperate hope that tensions would ease in the new year. Then, shortly after bottles had been popped and toasts ... continueREVIEWS (EATS) _ -
2017-12-05 - COMMENT_
KULU BÜRYAN & KEBAB SALONU: UNDERGROUND FAVORITE It was 10 a.m. on a bright, crisp Monday morning as we blasted down a miraculously traffic-free stretch of Istanbul’s E-5 highway. We were en route to Bağcılar, a jam-packed outer district home to three quarters of ... continue FEATURES _ - 2018-05-08- COMMENT
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HANGING ON TO HISTORY: EDIBLE NOSTALGIA IN SAMATYA That much of the past seems to stick to Samatya is a marvel in Istanbul, a city being rebuilt and “restored” at an alarming pace. First, there’s the question of its name. Occupying a stretch of the Marmara Sea and squeezed between the old city walls and Kumkapı, an area home to a rotating cast of eclectic restaurants, the neighborhoodstill ... continue
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