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PENHALIGON’S THE FAVOURITE : PERFUME REVIEW I try not to read the marketing material before testing a perfume–and with good reason. If I had learned that Penhaligon’s The Favourite was inspired by Sarah Churchill, Duchess of Marlborough, I wouldn’t have described it as soft, ethereal and tender. It’s hard to imagine those adjectives applied to the favorite of Queen Anne and a prominent personality of 18th century Britain.CHYPRE ARCHIVES
This revolution was the creation of Chypre by François Coty. The name Chypre referred to the island of Cyprus, which had been famous for its fragrant moss since antiquity, and while chypre-style fragrances, warm and moss-laden, were popular long before Coty’s creation, his Chypre of 1917 was different. For one thing, Coty wasn’t afraid of LILY OF THE VALLEY POTPOURRI A couple of years ago my aunt gave me a book called L’Art de Simplicité (The Art of Simplicity) that promised to declutter my life. After the first five pages, I felt like a failure. My bedroom is nothing like a room at a Zen monastery, my kitchen resembles a spice aisle at Kalustyan’s, and my living room with its overspilling bookshelves is more reminiscent of a public library during SOLAR PERFUME NOTES : WHAT DOES IT MEAN? Perfume-speak is a language of its own, with words like “chypre”, “gourmand” and “petally” having specialised meanings. Speaking Perfume: the A-to-Z glossary of perfume terms demystifies some of the commonly used terms, but I often receive requests to elaborate further and give more examples. My latest FT column, Sun and Scents, covers the term “solar.” GUERLAIN CHANT D’AROMES : FRAGRANCE REVIEW Guerlain marketed Chant d’Arômes in 1962 as a fragrance for a woman who wears perfume only for herself. In an interview with Elle Magazine, perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain described his muse Marie-Monique as “a proper, ladylike young woman. I chose spring flowers like honeysuckle and gardenia, embellished them with mandarin and bergamot and added a touch of jasmine and a hint of ylang-ylang.” CHANEL CHANCE, EAU FRAICHE AND EAU TENDRE : FRAGRANCE Perfumer Jacques Polge has authored or co-authored so many of my favorite Chanel fragrances (Beige, Coromandel, Cristalle Eau de Parfum, Coco) that it always pains me to admit that he has also authored my least-favorite Chanel scent, Chance. Chance always smells to me as if a brand of lesser and striving quality decided to make something “à la Chanel” in style and came up with Chance. CHRISTIAN DIOR COLOGNE BLANCHE : PERFUME REVIEW Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor. One of the three colognes released by Christian Dior in 2004 under the guidance of Hedi Slimane, Cologne Blanche was composed by FrancisKurkdjian.
BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITSBOOKS & ARTSTRAVELPERFUME 101FOODSCENT NOTES A-ZABOUT The more I delve into perfumery, the more the subject of fragrance classics fascinates me. Although when it comes to my day-to-day choices I still wear many fragrances from niche brands, I reach for classics when I want to experience the scent of another time, a glimpse of another era or simply to take myself out of my routine. PERFUME REVIEWS ARCHIVES The appealing aspect of The Favourite is how it combines floral and fruity notes with a hint of powder. It starts with a bright and sweet citrus and immediately plunges into a floral accord combining soft, rose-like notes with violet. The effect is delicate, but once the musk becomes more prominent, The Favourite gains more richness. UPLIFTING, SPRING-LIKE PERFUMES FOR ALL YEAR ROUND Spring is more than a season. It’s a feeling. A mood. I always long to capture it somehow to experience its effervescence whenever a yearning strikes–the play of sunshine on rain-splattered streets, the confetti of cherry blossom petals, the promise of something newand beautiful.
PENHALIGON’S THE FAVOURITE : PERFUME REVIEW I try not to read the marketing material before testing a perfume–and with good reason. If I had learned that Penhaligon’s The Favourite was inspired by Sarah Churchill, Duchess of Marlborough, I wouldn’t have described it as soft, ethereal and tender. It’s hard to imagine those adjectives applied to the favorite of Queen Anne and a prominent personality of 18th century Britain.CHYPRE ARCHIVES
This revolution was the creation of Chypre by François Coty. The name Chypre referred to the island of Cyprus, which had been famous for its fragrant moss since antiquity, and while chypre-style fragrances, warm and moss-laden, were popular long before Coty’s creation, his Chypre of 1917 was different. For one thing, Coty wasn’t afraid of LILY OF THE VALLEY POTPOURRI A couple of years ago my aunt gave me a book called L’Art de Simplicité (The Art of Simplicity) that promised to declutter my life. After the first five pages, I felt like a failure. My bedroom is nothing like a room at a Zen monastery, my kitchen resembles a spice aisle at Kalustyan’s, and my living room with its overspilling bookshelves is more reminiscent of a public library during SOLAR PERFUME NOTES : WHAT DOES IT MEAN? Perfume-speak is a language of its own, with words like “chypre”, “gourmand” and “petally” having specialised meanings. Speaking Perfume: the A-to-Z glossary of perfume terms demystifies some of the commonly used terms, but I often receive requests to elaborate further and give more examples. My latest FT column, Sun and Scents, covers the term “solar.” GUERLAIN CHANT D’AROMES : FRAGRANCE REVIEW Guerlain marketed Chant d’Arômes in 1962 as a fragrance for a woman who wears perfume only for herself. In an interview with Elle Magazine, perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain described his muse Marie-Monique as “a proper, ladylike young woman. I chose spring flowers like honeysuckle and gardenia, embellished them with mandarin and bergamot and added a touch of jasmine and a hint of ylang-ylang.” CHANEL CHANCE, EAU FRAICHE AND EAU TENDRE : FRAGRANCE Perfumer Jacques Polge has authored or co-authored so many of my favorite Chanel fragrances (Beige, Coromandel, Cristalle Eau de Parfum, Coco) that it always pains me to admit that he has also authored my least-favorite Chanel scent, Chance. Chance always smells to me as if a brand of lesser and striving quality decided to make something “à la Chanel” in style and came up with Chance. CHRISTIAN DIOR COLOGNE BLANCHE : PERFUME REVIEW Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor. One of the three colognes released by Christian Dior in 2004 under the guidance of Hedi Slimane, Cologne Blanche was composed by FrancisKurkdjian.
WHY IS ROSE CENTIFOLIA SUCH AN EXPENSIVE INGREDIENT 15 hours ago · My most recent video is about rose centifolia. As I explain, the processing of rose blossoms into rose absolute is a complicated and time-consuming process. ROSE PERFUMES ARCHIVES My most recent video is about rose centifolia. As I explain, the processing of rose blossoms into rose absolute is a complicated and time-consuming process. IF YOUR PERFUME DOESN'T LAST Alina: I appreciate a lot that you pick up this subject as indeed it is more and more common that we all complain that recent perfumes don’t have staying power (perceived or real). Musks are a culprit as well as fatigue or getting used. Truth is however that some brands know how to deal with staying power while others seem to almost deliberately kill it. WHAT DOES PETITGRAIN SMELL LIKE AND MY FAVORITE PERFUMES Toni: The video on Petitgrain is very informative. I was admiring the blossoms of my ultra dwarf Eureka Lemon tree when I noticed thefragrance was
PERFUME 101 ARCHIVES The first day of our perfumery course started at the Edmond Roudnitska garden and the Art et Parfum studios. I intended to give an overview of perfume techniques and to analyze some of the greatest perfume masterpieces, and this corner of Provence was the perfect start. HYACINTH PERFUMES THAT SPELL SPRING Karen A: I just spritzed each on to see if I can articulate a little of the difference. But, it’s not the notes but more of the sense or feel that is different so here goes. It’s like the difference between wearing a gorgeous cashmere sweater to sleep in where you are the one experiencing it’s beauty as opposed to wearing that same sweater out in public. BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITS Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor. Only the travails of copyrighting a fragrance name can explain why Issey Miyake chose a nondescript a Scent by Issey Miyake to identify its most recent launch. Or perhaps the reason is really the “poetry of minimalism” mentioned in the press release. ORIGINS GINGER ESSENCE : PERFUME REVIEW Jillie: You are so right (as always). Ginger Essence is a lovely refreshing pickme-up, and perfect for wearing when you think it might be a headachy day. I have always actually preferred the Sensuous SkinScent.
CULTURE ARCHIVES
Did you make any interesting discoveries over the past week–perfume, food, movies, books, etc? In my futile attempts to keep up with the fast pace of the fragrance market, I often don’t have a chance to revisit older launches. PERFUME 101 ARCHIVES Here you can find how to guides to selecting, testing and enjoying scents. Also includes are the lists of our top favorite perfumes for different occasions and articles covering all range of topics related to fragrance. If you’re curious to step inside a perfume lab (or even become an industry professional), this group of essays will be ofinterest.
BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITSBOOKS & ARTSTRAVELPERFUME 101FOODSCENT NOTES A-ZABOUT The more I delve into perfumery, the more the subject of fragrance classics fascinates me. Although when it comes to my day-to-day choices I still wear many fragrances from niche brands, I reach for classics when I want to experience the scent of another time, a glimpse of another era or simply to take myself out of my routine. UPLIFTING, SPRING-LIKE PERFUMES FOR ALL YEAR ROUND Spring is more than a season. It’s a feeling. A mood. I always long to capture it somehow to experience its effervescence whenever a yearning strikes–the play of sunshine on rain-splattered streets, the confetti of cherry blossom petals, the promise of something newand beautiful.
SULTRY PERFUMES AND HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR FRAGRANCES Carla: I feel so confident when I wear Iris Silver Mist – I guess confidence is a key bombshell quality. It’s the confidence that is style, the knowledge you have taken just one extra moment, one extra effort, with what perfume you wear, what clothes you wear and how youwear them.
LILY OF THE VALLEY POTPOURRI A couple of years ago my aunt gave me a book called L’Art de Simplicité (The Art of Simplicity) that promised to declutter my life. After the first five pages, I felt like a failure. My bedroom is nothing like a room at a Zen monastery, my kitchen resembles a spice aisle at Kalustyan’s, and my living room with its overspilling bookshelves is more reminiscent of a public library during WHAT ARE PERFUME ACCORDS AND BASES? Nina Z: I have been thinking about bases recently because of a perfume game I’ve been playing using my own collection plus samples. I focus on a single house per week, sometimes vintage and sometimes modern. When I wore 6 vintage Patou fragrances from the Ma collection, I noticed that not only was the style similar (complex, well blended, subtle) but they all had what seemed like a similar WHAT DOES PETITGRAIN SMELL LIKE AND MY FAVORITE PERFUMES My new video is devoted to everything petitgrain. I describe how it’s usually used in perfumery and then mention my favorite fragrances that illustrate the complex facets of this essential oil. SOLAR PERFUME NOTES : WHAT DOES IT MEAN? Perfume-speak is a language of its own, with words like “chypre”, “gourmand” and “petally” having specialised meanings. Speaking Perfume: the A-to-Z glossary of perfume terms demystifies some of the commonly used terms, but I often receive requests to elaborate further and give more examples. My latest FT column, Sun and Scents, covers the term “solar.” WHAT DOES ORANGE BLOSSOM SMELL LIKE? Austenfan: I remember the scent of the bitter orange trees in Phoenix, Arizona; my first experience of orange blossom in the wild. One of the few things that smelled good there (the desert has few smells and the city smelled mostly of car exhaust). I love orange blossom in a YVES SAINT LAURENT OPIUM (NEW) : PERFUME REVIEW Opium. Even if you haven’t worn Opium yourself, just the name of this perfume by Yves Saint Laurent is enough to conjure its controversial and dramatic personality. Opium came out in 1977 and it marked a whole era with its spicy, fiery carnation scent. In the 1980s, when neither perfume nor hair could be too 10 WAYS TO USE ORANGE BLOSSOM WATER : PERFUME, BEAUTY, FOOD I don’t often think of Marie-Antoinette whenever I use orange blossom water, but perhaps I should. By the time the French queen was playing shepherdess in Versailles, the cultivation of bitter orange trees in France was a long standing tradition solely for the purpose of producing this perfumed liquid. BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITSBOOKS & ARTSTRAVELPERFUME 101FOODSCENT NOTES A-ZABOUT The more I delve into perfumery, the more the subject of fragrance classics fascinates me. Although when it comes to my day-to-day choices I still wear many fragrances from niche brands, I reach for classics when I want to experience the scent of another time, a glimpse of another era or simply to take myself out of my routine. UPLIFTING, SPRING-LIKE PERFUMES FOR ALL YEAR ROUND Spring is more than a season. It’s a feeling. A mood. I always long to capture it somehow to experience its effervescence whenever a yearning strikes–the play of sunshine on rain-splattered streets, the confetti of cherry blossom petals, the promise of something newand beautiful.
SULTRY PERFUMES AND HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR FRAGRANCES Carla: I feel so confident when I wear Iris Silver Mist – I guess confidence is a key bombshell quality. It’s the confidence that is style, the knowledge you have taken just one extra moment, one extra effort, with what perfume you wear, what clothes you wear and how youwear them.
LILY OF THE VALLEY POTPOURRI A couple of years ago my aunt gave me a book called L’Art de Simplicité (The Art of Simplicity) that promised to declutter my life. After the first five pages, I felt like a failure. My bedroom is nothing like a room at a Zen monastery, my kitchen resembles a spice aisle at Kalustyan’s, and my living room with its overspilling bookshelves is more reminiscent of a public library during WHAT ARE PERFUME ACCORDS AND BASES? Nina Z: I have been thinking about bases recently because of a perfume game I’ve been playing using my own collection plus samples. I focus on a single house per week, sometimes vintage and sometimes modern. When I wore 6 vintage Patou fragrances from the Ma collection, I noticed that not only was the style similar (complex, well blended, subtle) but they all had what seemed like a similar WHAT DOES PETITGRAIN SMELL LIKE AND MY FAVORITE PERFUMES My new video is devoted to everything petitgrain. I describe how it’s usually used in perfumery and then mention my favorite fragrances that illustrate the complex facets of this essential oil. SOLAR PERFUME NOTES : WHAT DOES IT MEAN? Perfume-speak is a language of its own, with words like “chypre”, “gourmand” and “petally” having specialised meanings. Speaking Perfume: the A-to-Z glossary of perfume terms demystifies some of the commonly used terms, but I often receive requests to elaborate further and give more examples. My latest FT column, Sun and Scents, covers the term “solar.” WHAT DOES ORANGE BLOSSOM SMELL LIKE? Austenfan: I remember the scent of the bitter orange trees in Phoenix, Arizona; my first experience of orange blossom in the wild. One of the few things that smelled good there (the desert has few smells and the city smelled mostly of car exhaust). I love orange blossom in a YVES SAINT LAURENT OPIUM (NEW) : PERFUME REVIEW Opium. Even if you haven’t worn Opium yourself, just the name of this perfume by Yves Saint Laurent is enough to conjure its controversial and dramatic personality. Opium came out in 1977 and it marked a whole era with its spicy, fiery carnation scent. In the 1980s, when neither perfume nor hair could be too 10 WAYS TO USE ORANGE BLOSSOM WATER : PERFUME, BEAUTY, FOOD I don’t often think of Marie-Antoinette whenever I use orange blossom water, but perhaps I should. By the time the French queen was playing shepherdess in Versailles, the cultivation of bitter orange trees in France was a long standing tradition solely for the purpose of producing this perfumed liquid. PENHALIGON’S THE FAVOURITE : PERFUME REVIEW I try not to read the marketing material before testing a perfume–and with good reason. If I had learned that Penhaligon’s The Favourite was inspired by Sarah Churchill, Duchess of Marlborough, I wouldn’t have described it as soft, ethereal and tender. It’s hard to imagine those adjectives applied to the favorite of Queen Anne and a prominent personality of 18th century Britain. IF YOUR PERFUME DOESN'T LAST Alina: I appreciate a lot that you pick up this subject as indeed it is more and more common that we all complain that recent perfumes don’t have staying power (perceived or real). Musks are a culprit as well as fatigue or getting used. Truth is however that some brands know how to deal with staying power while others seem to almost deliberately kill it. BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITS Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor. Whether fashion or fragrance, Thierry Mugler is among the most avant-garde designers, capable of creating unique and memorableexperiences.
FASCINATING PERFUMERY : WHAT DO MODERN VIOLETS SMELL LIKE What do modern violet perfume smell like. Victoria: I’m not sure what violets you have, but typically, violets don’t smell like jasmine. They smell sweet, powdery, fruity. However, there is a quirk, the main component that gives violets their scent, ionone, temporarily desensitizes the olfactory receptors and some people are more sensitive to this than others. PERFUME 101 ARCHIVES Here you can find how to guides to selecting, testing and enjoying scents. Also includes are the lists of our top favorite perfumes for different occasions and articles covering all range of topics related to fragrance. If you’re curious to step inside a perfume lab (or even become an industry professional), this group of essays will be ofinterest.
CHYPRE ARCHIVES
A fragrance evoking crushed green leaves, or perhaps a smoked lily. Or a blend that smells of damp wood and moss. For my summer selection this year, I decided to unfold the fragrance wheel and visit 5 of my favorite styles–green, chypre, citrus, white flowers and incense. I wore one type of perfume for several days in a row and below are mydiscoveries.
MY SKINCARE ROUTINE AND LAYERING TECHNIQUE Many of you have asked me about my skincare routine, and of course, I’m happy to share it. Skincare is my favorite part of my beauty routine, and while it may sound like blasphemy for someone who works in fragrance, I’d rather imagine going without perfume than without sunscreen. I also enjoy researching the best products, reading studies THE SCENT OF EMPIRE CHANEL NO 5 AND RED MOSCOW BY KARL Schlögel’s book is about the world of Red Moscow and its intriguing connection to Chanel No 5. Schlögel’s story alternates between Moscow and Paris, Red Moscow and No 5 and the personalities that surrounded them. Red Moscow was created in 1925 by Auguste Michel, who like the creator of No 5, Ernest Beaux, was a French perfumer workingin
WHAT FRENCH WOMEN LOVE : TOP 20 BEST SELLING PERFUMES IN When I was growing up in Ukraine, I don’t remember hearing women discuss perfume brands. They would simply refer to high-quality perfume as “French perfume,” and these two words conveyed all of the glamour, beauty and elegance that one sought inside a crystal bottle. Even today, after having smelled no shortage of boring anduninspired
CHANEL CHANCE, EAU FRAICHE AND EAU TENDRE : FRAGRANCE Perfumer Jacques Polge has authored or co-authored so many of my favorite Chanel fragrances (Beige, Coromandel, Cristalle Eau de Parfum, Coco) that it always pains me to admit that he has also authored my least-favorite Chanel scent, Chance. Chance always smells to me as if a brand of lesser and striving quality decided to make something “à la Chanel” in style and came up with Chance. BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITSBOOKS & ARTSTRAVELPERFUME 101FOODSCENT NOTES A-ZABOUT I hope that everyone’s week is starting well. Today we have a generous giveaway made possible by Bois de Jasmin’s reader Steven. Steven would like to give away a full bottle of Penhaligon’s The Favourite, 3.4oz, 100ml.It’s fresh, in good condition, with theoriginal box.
PERFUME REVIEWS ARCHIVES The appealing aspect of The Favourite is how it combines floral and fruity notes with a hint of powder. It starts with a bright and sweet citrus and immediately plunges into a floral accord combining soft, rose-like notes with violet. The effect is delicate, but once the musk becomes more prominent, The Favourite gains more richness. UPLIFTING, SPRING-LIKE PERFUMES FOR ALL YEAR ROUND Spring is more than a season. It’s a feeling. A mood. I always long to capture it somehow to experience its effervescence whenever a yearning strikes–the play of sunshine on rain-splattered streets, the confetti of cherry blossom petals, the promise of something newand beautiful.
CHYPRE ARCHIVES
This revolution was the creation of Chypre by François Coty. The name Chypre referred to the island of Cyprus, which had been famous for its fragrant moss since antiquity, and while chypre-style fragrances, warm and moss-laden, were popular long before Coty’s creation, his Chypre of 1917 was different. For one thing, Coty wasn’t afraid of WHAT DOES PETITGRAIN SMELL LIKE AND MY FAVORITE PERFUMES My new video is devoted to everything petitgrain. I describe how it’s usually used in perfumery and then mention my favorite fragrances that illustrate the complex facets of this essential oil. SOLAR PERFUME NOTES : WHAT DOES IT MEAN? Perfume-speak is a language of its own, with words like “chypre”, “gourmand” and “petally” having specialised meanings. Speaking Perfume: the A-to-Z glossary of perfume terms demystifies some of the commonly used terms, but I often receive requests to elaborate further and give more examples. My latest FT column, Sun and Scents, covers the term “solar.” ORIGINS GINGER ESSENCE : PERFUME REVIEW Figuier: I’ve never tried the scent, but I did try the souffle a while back when I was shopping for a birthday present for my sister. The shop assistant gave me a lovely hand massage with it, and it felt beautifully smooth and non-sticky. I promptly purchased it, and mysister has
GUERLAIN CHANT D’AROMES : FRAGRANCE REVIEW Guerlain marketed Chant d’Arômes in 1962 as a fragrance for a woman who wears perfume only for herself. In an interview with Elle Magazine, perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain described his muse Marie-Monique as “a proper, ladylike young woman. I chose spring flowers like honeysuckle and gardenia, embellished them with mandarin and bergamot and added a touch of jasmine and a hint of ylang-ylang.” GUY ROBERT'S SELECTION OF PERFUME MASTERPIECES In his book, Les Sens du Parfum, the perfumer Guy Robert lists some of the perfumers whose work he considers to be especially outstanding, alongside with some of their most notable masterpieces.Robert is the author of such fragrances as Amouage Gold, Christian Dior Dioressence, Hermès Calèche, Hermès Equipage and my own favorite Hermès Doblis.I always considered this list as including the CHANEL CHANCE, EAU FRAICHE AND EAU TENDRE : FRAGRANCE Perfumer Jacques Polge has authored or co-authored so many of my favorite Chanel fragrances (Beige, Coromandel, Cristalle Eau de Parfum, Coco) that it always pains me to admit that he has also authored my least-favorite Chanel scent, Chance. Chance always smells to me as if a brand of lesser and striving quality decided to make something “à la Chanel” in style and came up with Chance. BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITSBOOKS & ARTSTRAVELPERFUME 101FOODSCENT NOTES A-ZABOUT I hope that everyone’s week is starting well. Today we have a generous giveaway made possible by Bois de Jasmin’s reader Steven. Steven would like to give away a full bottle of Penhaligon’s The Favourite, 3.4oz, 100ml.It’s fresh, in good condition, with theoriginal box.
PERFUME REVIEWS ARCHIVES The appealing aspect of The Favourite is how it combines floral and fruity notes with a hint of powder. It starts with a bright and sweet citrus and immediately plunges into a floral accord combining soft, rose-like notes with violet. The effect is delicate, but once the musk becomes more prominent, The Favourite gains more richness. UPLIFTING, SPRING-LIKE PERFUMES FOR ALL YEAR ROUND Spring is more than a season. It’s a feeling. A mood. I always long to capture it somehow to experience its effervescence whenever a yearning strikes–the play of sunshine on rain-splattered streets, the confetti of cherry blossom petals, the promise of something newand beautiful.
CHYPRE ARCHIVES
This revolution was the creation of Chypre by François Coty. The name Chypre referred to the island of Cyprus, which had been famous for its fragrant moss since antiquity, and while chypre-style fragrances, warm and moss-laden, were popular long before Coty’s creation, his Chypre of 1917 was different. For one thing, Coty wasn’t afraid of WHAT DOES PETITGRAIN SMELL LIKE AND MY FAVORITE PERFUMES My new video is devoted to everything petitgrain. I describe how it’s usually used in perfumery and then mention my favorite fragrances that illustrate the complex facets of this essential oil. SOLAR PERFUME NOTES : WHAT DOES IT MEAN? Perfume-speak is a language of its own, with words like “chypre”, “gourmand” and “petally” having specialised meanings. Speaking Perfume: the A-to-Z glossary of perfume terms demystifies some of the commonly used terms, but I often receive requests to elaborate further and give more examples. My latest FT column, Sun and Scents, covers the term “solar.” ORIGINS GINGER ESSENCE : PERFUME REVIEW Figuier: I’ve never tried the scent, but I did try the souffle a while back when I was shopping for a birthday present for my sister. The shop assistant gave me a lovely hand massage with it, and it felt beautifully smooth and non-sticky. I promptly purchased it, and mysister has
GUERLAIN CHANT D’AROMES : FRAGRANCE REVIEW Guerlain marketed Chant d’Arômes in 1962 as a fragrance for a woman who wears perfume only for herself. In an interview with Elle Magazine, perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain described his muse Marie-Monique as “a proper, ladylike young woman. I chose spring flowers like honeysuckle and gardenia, embellished them with mandarin and bergamot and added a touch of jasmine and a hint of ylang-ylang.” GUY ROBERT'S SELECTION OF PERFUME MASTERPIECES In his book, Les Sens du Parfum, the perfumer Guy Robert lists some of the perfumers whose work he considers to be especially outstanding, alongside with some of their most notable masterpieces.Robert is the author of such fragrances as Amouage Gold, Christian Dior Dioressence, Hermès Calèche, Hermès Equipage and my own favorite Hermès Doblis.I always considered this list as including the CHANEL CHANCE, EAU FRAICHE AND EAU TENDRE : FRAGRANCE Perfumer Jacques Polge has authored or co-authored so many of my favorite Chanel fragrances (Beige, Coromandel, Cristalle Eau de Parfum, Coco) that it always pains me to admit that he has also authored my least-favorite Chanel scent, Chance. Chance always smells to me as if a brand of lesser and striving quality decided to make something “à la Chanel” in style and came up with Chance. WHAT MATERIALS ARE VALUED BY PERFUMERS AND WHY Fazal: Serge Lutens A la Nuit is, indeed, the most realistic jasmine perfume I have ever smelled though I enjoy more how jasmine was deployed in original version of Jasmin et Cigarette. The contrast with tobacco quite surprised me when I smelled it first. However, my most favorite jasmine fragrance remains Lutens Sarrasins, also my mostfavorite Lutens.
PERFUME REVIEWS BY HOUSE Brigitte in Penhaligon’s The Favourite Perfume Giveaway: 1000 Flowers Ode for spice and woods. Also, 1000 Flowers Reglisse Noire which is a refreshing take on licorice, not floral or citrus and can be worn year round. St June 4, 2021 at 11:34am CLASSICAL PERFUMES FOR THOSE WHO DON'T LIKE CLASSICS The more I delve into perfumery, the more the subject of fragrance classics fascinates me. Although when it comes to my day-to-day choices I still wear many fragrances from niche brands, I reach for classics when I want to experience the scent of another time, a glimpse of another era or simply to take myself out of my routine. PENHALIGON’S THE FAVOURITE : PERFUME REVIEW I try not to read the marketing material before testing a perfume–and with good reason. If I had learned that Penhaligon’s The Favourite was inspired by Sarah Churchill, Duchess of Marlborough, I wouldn’t have described it as soft, ethereal and tender. It’s hard to imagine those adjectives applied to the favorite of Queen Anne and a prominent personality of 18th century Britain. MATIERES NOBLES ARCHIVES Welcome to Bois de Jasmin! I'm a writer, journalist and professionally trained perfumer. On these pages I explore the world of senses through art, literature, and history.Victoria LILY OF THE VALLEY POTPOURRI A couple of years ago my aunt gave me a book called L’Art de Simplicité (The Art of Simplicity) that promised to declutter my life. After the first five pages, I felt like a failure. My bedroom is nothing like a room at a Zen monastery, my kitchen resembles a spice aisle at Kalustyan’s, and my living room with its overspilling bookshelves is more reminiscent of a public library during BOIS DE JASMIN : A PRIMER ON SENSORY PURSUITS Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor. Whether fashion or fragrance, Thierry Mugler is among the most avant-garde designers, capable of creating unique and memorableexperiences.
PERFUME 101 ARCHIVES Here you can find how to guides to selecting, testing and enjoying scents. Also includes are the lists of our top favorite perfumes for different occasions and articles covering all range of topics related to fragrance. If you’re curious to step inside a perfume lab (or even become an industry professional), this group of essays will be ofinterest.
CULTURE ARCHIVES
A couple of weeks ago we were once again on the road going south. Belgium is divided into two regions; the Dutch-speaking Flandersspread out to
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June 4, 2021 by Victoria in Perfume 101 , Perfume Articles,
Perfume Trends
CLASSICAL PERFUMES FOR THOSE WHO DON’T LIKE CLASSICS The more I delve into perfumery, the more the subject of fragrance classics fascinates me. Although when it comes to my day-to-day choices I still wear many fragrances from niche brands, I reach for classics when I want to experience the scent of another time, a glimpse of another era or simply to take myself out of my routine. For this reason, classics remain among my staples. What’s more, all of the recent top-selling fragrances lists from the US, France, Germany and Italy feature classical fragrances like _Guerlain Shalimar_,
_Chanel No 5_
,
and _Christian Dior Eau Sauvage_.
Not everyone, however, is enamored with classics. Some people find them old-fashioned. Some think that they are too demanding or that they don’t fit their lifestyle. Can you wear Chanel No 19 while cleaning your flat? Or don Mitsouko for a supermarket run? While as I’ve said many times before, you need not like the classics, giving them a chance will benefit your understanding of perfumery. Another important consideration is that classical ideas are often reused in niche fragrances, so instead of paying the niche prices, you can find the same thing–and often of much better quality–from the originalsource.
Continue reading →27 comments
May 31, 2021 by Victoria inContests
PENHALIGON’S THE FAVOURITE PERFUME GIVEAWAY I hope that everyone’s week is starting well. Today we have a generous giveaway made possible by Bois de Jasmin’s reader Steven. Steven would like to give away a full bottle of _Penhaligon’s The Favourite_, 3.4oz, 100ml. It’s fresh, in good condition, with the original box. Steven’s wife received it as a gift from her work colleagues, but it’s not her style of fragrance, and she and Steven would like to send it to someone who can appreciate it. They both like reading your comments. Steven can send his package anywhere in the USA (sanitized and well-wrapped, of course). I would like to thank our entire Bois de Jasmin community for your generosity and kindness, whether it means giveaways like this, adviceor comments.
We are not responsible for leaks or damage during transit or for lostpackages.
To participate, please answer these questions. I will randomly drawone winner.
1. Steven’s wife is currently looking for a new fragrance. As Steven says, “she doesn’t like florals or citrus. She like woods and spices. Caron Parfum Sacré used to be her signature, but now she wants something more modern and maybe lighter. Something that can work in hot weather too.” Can you please recommend a fragrance or two? 2. May I contact you via email to notify you of your win and share your email with Steven? The contest is open till Thursday. I will contact the winner by email and post their name here.69 comments
May 24, 2021 by Victoria inIn Your Opinion
RECOMMEND ME A PERFUME : MAY 2021 Our “Recommend Me a Perfume”thread is open
this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfumeyou are wearing!
HOW DOES IT WORK: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other! To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment. Photography by Bois de Jasmin104 comments
May 21, 2021 by Victoria in Perfume 101 , Perfume Articles,
Perfume Notes
THE BEAUTY OF SIMPLE THINGS : ORANGE The orange is ubiquitous in perfumery. We easily get taken with oud, gardenia, frangipani, or other more flamboyant notes, but for the most part, orange doesn’t inspire romantic fantasies. On the other hand, the most interesting ingredients in the perfumer’s palette are the most common ones, because not only do they allow a wide range of effects, they challenge the creators to be innovative. The spongy skin of orange contains cells filled with essential oil, and you only need to squeeze the colored part to see beads of essence. If you apply the liquid on a paper blotter, you can even study the way it progresses, from intense sweetness to acidic tang and to waxy heft. The latter is due to the aldehydes, naturally occurring aromatics that are used in fragrances like _Chanel No 5_ and _Guerlain Chamade_ to give their flowers a halo of shimmer. In orange oil, however, all facets are in balance, and it smells of a juicy, sweet fruit. Continue reading →27 comments
May 17, 2021 by Victoria inLists , Perfume 101
UPLIFTING, SPRING-LIKE PERFUMES FOR ALL YEAR ROUND Spring is more than a season. It’s a feeling. A mood. I always long to capture it somehow to experience its effervescence whenever a yearning strikes–the play of sunshine on rain-splattered streets, the confetti of cherry blossom petals, the promise of something new and beautiful. In this spirit, I’ve filmed a new episode for Bois de Jasmin’s channel and compiled a list of fragrances that evoke such a mood for me. It’s based on the list I created for my spring-themed article,
and below, I add a few extra choices from the latest releases. My choices mentioned in the video include my three green, unsweetenedfavorites:
_Annick Goutal Duel_ _The Different Company Tokyo Bloom_ _Hermès Eau de Narcisse Bleu_ Continue reading →16 comments
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Welcome to Bois de Jasmin! I'm a writer, journalist and professionally trained perfumer. On these pages I explore the world of senses through art, literature, and history. -_Victoria_
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Sel et Vanille
in Classical Perfumes For Those Who Don’t Like Classics:
I adore my vintages. Some are harder to wear than others, but I’m ok with the occasional dab on my skin just to enjoy it myself. To me a very… June 6, 2021 at 9:27pm*
Notturno7
in The Beauty of Simple Things : Orange:
I’m catching up on my emails today and finding these lovely posts of yours. I really enjoyed your video on the recent post about classic perfumes and I almost mentioned… June 6, 2021 at 8:12pm*
Notturno7
in Classical Perfumes For Those Who Don’t Like Classics:
I love the timing of this post. For last few days I’ve been craving Mitsouko. Yesterday I wore it on a walk with a friend ( and to the food… June 6, 2021 at 5:57pm*
Klaas
in Classical Perfumes For Those Who Don’t Like Classics:
Even better! June 6, 2021 at 1:57pmLATEST TWEETS
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