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EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
IS ALEX HONNOLD’S EL CAP FREE-SOLO THE GREATEST SPORTS Alex Honnold’s plans were no secret. We all knew free soloing El Capitan had been on his mind since the beginning of his climbing career; we just never knew when or even if this crazy idea might ever become a reality. At 9:28 a.m., Saturday, June 3, 2017,EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
IS ALEX HONNOLD’S EL CAP FREE-SOLO THE GREATEST SPORTS Alex Honnold’s plans were no secret. We all knew free soloing El Capitan had been on his mind since the beginning of his climbing career; we just never knew when or even if this crazy idea might ever become a reality. At 9:28 a.m., Saturday, June 3, 2017, MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT LAYERING IS WRONG People used to wear fleece as their mid-layer, with a W/B shell as an outer layer. But in recent years, I’ve noticed a new (disturbing) trend: light down jackets being used as mid-layers underneath W/B shells. Basically, this is the worst of both worlds! No breathability. Little stretch. Easy to THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
ME FIRST: HOW WE ADVENTURE In December 2018, the media tuned in to a dramatic adventure story: Colin O’Brady, a 33-year-old American, was vying to achieve what he called “The Impossible First,” the first “solo, unsupported, unassisted” crossing of Antarctica. The fact that another guy was simultaneously trying to do the same thing via the same route raisedthe
THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’sEVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk.EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. LOG IN | EVENING SENDS Climbing’s popular. What did you think would happen? May 11, 2021 | Essays & Opinion. Featured MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. THE BEST CRASH PADS FOR BOULDERING 2021 The 3X4 Pro is Send’s highest quality standard sized pad, and can be extended with an optional Add-A-Pad panel into a lap pool sized 3’ by 6’ flop zone. Every detail of this pad feels like it was built with attention and care, and after a year of heavy use, it isn’t showing any signs of wear. The handles are made from easy to grab rope FROM WEAK TO STRONG: AN EXPERT GYMNAST’S TRAINING GUIDE Some of the most famous climbers in the world, such as Lynn Hill, came from gymnastics backgrounds. When I started climbing, I had a high degree of bodyweight strength and conditioning from my time in gymnastics and parkour. (My approach is detailed in my book “Overcoming Gravity, 2nd Edition.”) For example, I’ve alwaysbeen able
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare. TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes.__
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Monday, October 7, 2019Evening Sends
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NO COUNTRY FOR PRO CLIMBERSAndrew Bisharat -
June 5, 2018
ADAM ONDRA OFFERS A MASTER CLASS IN ONSIGHTINGJanuary 2, 2019
PYD: THE GUNKS
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The Five Ten Anasazi Guide is a super-stiff, supportive flat-lasted lace-up for all-day moderate routes, particularly trad climbing in the mountains. This is a...Read review
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September 9, 2019
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My friend James Lucas recently wrote a provocatively entitled article about why no one should ever take dogs to the crags...Read more
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August 23, 2019
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Hazel Findlay and Madeleine Cope, two of the U.K.'s strongest trad-climbing ladies, take a trip to Sweden for some tasty granite...Read more
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MIKE LIBECKI: SOMETIMES SUCCES IS WALKING AWAY ALIVEAndrew Bisharat -
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There's no one like Mike Libecki. He's not just one of the greatest modern explorers of our time, but he's an...Read more
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THE CASE OF TEN SLEEPAndrew Bisharat -
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If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a...Read more
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