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August!
THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter, then heavily frosted – of note, many areas experienced an extra volume of vine-munching caterpillars. – May was wet and 17. A BURGUNDY VINTAGE CHART The Côte d’Or whites in particular show the difficulty of generalised scores – there are 2018 whites that are absolutely 19/20 – so you may think that at the top-end, the quality of the vintage is the same as in 2017. Actually there are far fewer 19/20 wines in 2018 than in 2017 – but hey! Version 1.80 – February 2018. Version1.70
VINTAGE 2020
marko’s harvest diary 08-Sep-20 – day 6. By Marko de Morey de la Vosne on October 08, 2020 #vintage 2020. Domaine Michel Noellat et Fils, Vosne-Romanee – Vendange Day Six Tuesday 8th Sept 2020. In summary this was a day of Bourgogne ‘a go go’ – with a gossip twist as to when the end of the full vendange might come for us. 09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their subBIG RED DIARY
Le Melon, as the (rare!) aficionados call it, has all but vanished from Burgundy – only about 2 hectares remain in production – 60% with one producer (in two plots) just outside of Beaune and the rest in the Yonne, near Tannay. Not yet in production, Armand HeitzARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE LIGNIER-MICHELOT (MOREY ST.DENIS Profile: Domaine Lignier-Michelot (Morey St.Denis) Virgile Lignier is the third generation of his family to work the vines of Morey St.Denis. He started to work with his father in 1988 at which time all the wine was sold in barrel to the négoce. Virgile says that his father, Maurice, was a good winemaker so he convinced him to startbottling
ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORT About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter, then heavily frosted – of note, many areas experienced an extra volume of vine-munching caterpillars. – May was wet and 17. A BURGUNDY VINTAGE CHART The Côte d’Or whites in particular show the difficulty of generalised scores – there are 2018 whites that are absolutely 19/20 – so you may think that at the top-end, the quality of the vintage is the same as in 2017. Actually there are far fewer 19/20 wines in 2018 than in 2017 – but hey! Version 1.80 – February 2018. Version1.70
VINTAGE 2020
marko’s harvest diary 08-Sep-20 – day 6. By Marko de Morey de la Vosne on October 08, 2020 #vintage 2020. Domaine Michel Noellat et Fils, Vosne-Romanee – Vendange Day Six Tuesday 8th Sept 2020. In summary this was a day of Bourgogne ‘a go go’ – with a gossip twist as to when the end of the full vendange might come for us. 09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their subBIG RED DIARY
Le Melon, as the (rare!) aficionados call it, has all but vanished from Burgundy – only about 2 hectares remain in production – 60% with one producer (in two plots) just outside of Beaune and the rest in the Yonne, near Tannay. Not yet in production, Armand HeitzARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE LIGNIER-MICHELOT (MOREY ST.DENIS Profile: Domaine Lignier-Michelot (Morey St.Denis) Virgile Lignier is the third generation of his family to work the vines of Morey St.Denis. He started to work with his father in 1988 at which time all the wine was sold in barrel to the négoce. Virgile says that his father, Maurice, was a good winemaker so he convinced him to startbottling
VINTAGE 2020
marko’s harvest diary 08-Sep-20 – day 6. By Marko de Morey de la Vosne on October 08, 2020 #vintage 2020. Domaine Michel Noellat et Fils, Vosne-Romanee – Vendange Day Six Tuesday 8th Sept 2020. In summary this was a day of Bourgogne ‘a go go’ – with a gossip twist as to when the end of the full vendange might come for us.OFFER OF THE DAY
The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax. So, not quite up to Clos de Tart levels – but Lambrays look to be on their way to ‘equivalence‘ – eh? It seems but a blink of the eye (to me) when I could buy magnums from this estate for well under 150Swiss francs. Okay
HAIL STORMS IN GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN THIS AFTERNOON Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) Click to share on WhatsApp (Opens in new window) Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window) Although this site has toBERTHAUT-GERBET
Tasted in Fixin with Amélie Berthaut, 28 April 2021. Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet 9 Rue Noisot 21220 Fixin Tel: +33 3 80 52 45 48 www.domaine-berthaut.com More reports with Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Amélie on 2019: “We had 18 hectares to harvest in REPORTS – PAGE 10 – BURGUNDY-REPORT Although this site has to support itself, and its author, everything in these pages is eventually free to view. With around 400 domaine visits and many blind tastings per year, you won’t find that level of coverage and openness elsewhere! CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY Château de Chamirey – 2019. 4.5.2021 billn. Tasted in Mercurey with Arnaud Trouvé, Carole Briffox & Amaury Devillard, 15 March 2021. Château de Chamirey Rue du Château, 71640 Mercurey Tel: +33 3 85 45 21 61 www.chamirey.com More reports for Château de Chamirey Carole Criffox has taken on the responsibility for winemaking for thechâteau
DEGUSTATION
Ouf – plenty of action today! We started at about 09h45 with Santenay Clos Rousseau, The lost were a little variable – a lot of what we had before lunch (it was a big pick) needed to triage a little rot but more often, fruit that was a little unripe – there was no signs of hail and no dried berries. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE D’ARDHUY (CORGOLOIN) Deep colour. High toned and floral, slightly closed nose. Very good concentration of ripe fruit that’s coupled with very good length. Balanced and interesting. 2003 Domaine d’Ardhuy, Corton Clos du Roi. An equal mixture of 50 and 20 year-old vines. The nose is PROFILE: DOMAINE ROBERT ARNOUX (VOSNE) 2003 Robert Arnoux, Vosne-Romanée. Bottled only six weeks before. Sweet black nose that very slowly releases a red berry note too. Lovely mouth wrapping tannins and a creamy texture. Medium-plus length. This is a nicely controlled wine until it reaches room temperature – than it gets a bit loutish. Just keep him cool! 2020 – BURGUNDY-REPORT 2019 Red Burgundy – part 1 – Côte de Beaune. By billn on December 31, 2020 #reports. Coming after my first two 2019 Burgundy Reports on: The whites of the Mâconnais, followed by. The whites of the Côte de Beaune. Now my latest report, covering the reds of the Côte de Beaune is now online – here. This will be Part 1 of my two 2019 Red THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter, then heavily frosted – of note, many areas experienced an extra volume of vine-munching caterpillars. – May was wet and ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORT About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
VINTAGE 2020
marko’s harvest diary 08-Sep-20 – day 6. By Marko de Morey de la Vosne on October 08, 2020 #vintage 2020. Domaine Michel Noellat et Fils, Vosne-Romanee – Vendange Day Six Tuesday 8th Sept 2020. In summary this was a day of Bourgogne ‘a go go’ – with a gossip twist as to when the end of the full vendange might come for us.ARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
GRÉGOIRE HOPPENOT
Tasted with Grégoire Hoppenot, this year in sunny ‘Les Roches,’ 24 February 2021. Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot Les Roches 69820 Fleurie Tel : +33 7 85 60 02 01 www PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for 2020 – BURGUNDY-REPORT 2019 Red Burgundy – part 1 – Côte de Beaune. By billn on December 31, 2020 #reports. Coming after my first two 2019 Burgundy Reports on: The whites of the Mâconnais, followed by. The whites of the Côte de Beaune. Now my latest report, covering the reds of the Côte de Beaune is now online – here. This will be Part 1 of my two 2019 Red THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter, then heavily frosted – of note, many areas experienced an extra volume of vine-munching caterpillars. – May was wet and ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORT About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
VINTAGE 2020
marko’s harvest diary 08-Sep-20 – day 6. By Marko de Morey de la Vosne on October 08, 2020 #vintage 2020. Domaine Michel Noellat et Fils, Vosne-Romanee – Vendange Day Six Tuesday 8th Sept 2020. In summary this was a day of Bourgogne ‘a go go’ – with a gossip twist as to when the end of the full vendange might come for us.ARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
GRÉGOIRE HOPPENOT
Tasted with Grégoire Hoppenot, this year in sunny ‘Les Roches,’ 24 February 2021. Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot Les Roches 69820 Fleurie Tel : +33 7 85 60 02 01 www PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for YESTERDAY IN THE CÔTES… 1 day ago · Yesterday afternoon. Mainly Beaune Gréves but a little Toussaints and Bressandes to the right Obviously, some damage in Gevrey-Chambertin yesterday but the storms were extremely localised – the rest of the Côte d’Or was threatened – like Beaune above – but there was rarely more than occasional rumbles of thunder and a few spots of rain – unlike the 40mm of rain in just a few 09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY Château de Chamirey – 2019. 4.5.2021 billn. Tasted in Mercurey with Arnaud Trouvé, Carole Briffox & Amaury Devillard, 15 March 2021. Château de Chamirey Rue du Château, 71640 Mercurey Tel: +33 3 85 45 21 61 www.chamirey.com More reports for Château de Chamirey Carole Criffox has taken on the responsibility for winemaking for thechâteau
ALBERT BICHOT
Albert Bichot – 2019. 31.12.2020 billn. Tasted in Beaune with Christophe Chauvel, pictured with Albéric Bichot, 08 December, 2020. Albert Bichot 6 Boulevard Jacques Copeau 21200 Beaune Tel: +33 3 80 24 37 37 www.bourgogne-bichot.com More reports for Maison Albert Bichot Christophe on 2019: “It’s 4 or 5 years that we are askingourselves
REPORTS – PAGE 10 – BURGUNDY-REPORT Although this site has to support itself, and its author, everything in these pages is eventually free to view. With around 400 domaine visits and many blind tastings per year, you won’t find that level of coverage and openness elsewhere!DEGUSTATION
Ouf – plenty of action today! We started at about 09h45 with Santenay Clos Rousseau, The lost were a little variable – a lot of what we had before lunch (it was a big pick) needed to triage a little rot but more often, fruit that was a little unripe – there was no signs of hail and no dried berries.GRÉGOIRE HOPPENOT
Tasted with Grégoire Hoppenot, this year in sunny ‘Les Roches,’ 24 February 2021. Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot Les Roches 69820 Fleurie Tel : +33 7 85 60 02 01 www PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. FIXIN: VILLAGE PROFILE The vineyards. The Fixin appellation which became official in 1936, produces both village and premier cru labels that be both red or white wine. Fixin is separated from Gevrey by the commune of Brochon – which labels its wines as Gevrey-Chambertin. Fixin sits mainly on an east, south-east facing hillside looking across to the flat Saonevalley.
THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORT About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH the current stage of 2021’s growth. 2.6.2021 billn. Recent vintages compared – each at the end of May – Chambre d’Agriculture, Côte d’Or. 2021 So far: – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter,then
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their subARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PROFILE: DOMAINE ROBERT ARNOUX (VOSNE) 2003 Robert Arnoux, Vosne-Romanée. Bottled only six weeks before. Sweet black nose that very slowly releases a red berry note too. Lovely mouth wrapping tannins and a creamy texture. Medium-plus length. This is a nicely controlled wine until it reaches room temperature – than it gets a bit loutish. Just keep him cool! 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: DOMAINE LIGNIER-MICHELOT (MOREY ST.DENIS Profile: Domaine Lignier-Michelot (Morey St.Denis) Virgile Lignier is the third generation of his family to work the vines of Morey St.Denis. He started to work with his father in 1988 at which time all the wine was sold in barrel to the négoce. Virgile says that his father, Maurice, was a good winemaker so he convinced him to startbottling
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORT About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH the current stage of 2021’s growth. 2.6.2021 billn. Recent vintages compared – each at the end of May – Chambre d’Agriculture, Côte d’Or. 2021 So far: – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter,then
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their subARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PROFILE: DOMAINE ROBERT ARNOUX (VOSNE) 2003 Robert Arnoux, Vosne-Romanée. Bottled only six weeks before. Sweet black nose that very slowly releases a red berry note too. Lovely mouth wrapping tannins and a creamy texture. Medium-plus length. This is a nicely controlled wine until it reaches room temperature – than it gets a bit loutish. Just keep him cool! 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: DOMAINE LIGNIER-MICHELOT (MOREY ST.DENIS Profile: Domaine Lignier-Michelot (Morey St.Denis) Virgile Lignier is the third generation of his family to work the vines of Morey St.Denis. He started to work with his father in 1988 at which time all the wine was sold in barrel to the négoce. Virgile says that his father, Maurice, was a good winemaker so he convinced him to startbottling
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France.OFFER OF THE DAY
The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax. So, not quite up to Clos de Tart levels – but Lambrays look to be on their way to ‘equivalence‘ – eh? It seems but a blink of the eye (to me) when I could buy magnums from this estate for well under 150Swiss francs. Okay
HAIL STORMS IN GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN THIS AFTERNOON 18 hours ago · Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) Click to share on WhatsApp (Opens in new window) Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window) Although this site hasto
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub BEAUNE 1ER CLOS DES MOUCHES Although in existence since 1880, Maison Drouhin were initially involved in the trading and ageing wines. Maurice Drouhin joined the family company in 1918. In 1921 he decided to buy vines – but they had to be the best and closest possible as all the travel in this time was still by horse. TheBIG RED DIARY
Le Melon, as the (rare!) aficionados call it, has all but vanished from Burgundy – only about 2 hectares remain in production – 60% with one producer (in two plots) just outside of Beaune and the rest in the Yonne, near Tannay. Not yet in production, Armand Heitz REPORTS – PAGE 10 – BURGUNDY-REPORT Although this site has to support itself, and its author, everything in these pages is eventually free to view. With around 400 domaine visits and many blind tastings per year, you won’t find that level of coverage and openness elsewhere!VINTAGE 2020…
vintage 2020. 23.7.2020 billn. Puligny-Montrachet, 22 July 2020. Steady as she goes – and still 3-4 days ahead of the 2003 growing season. Many in the Côte de Beaune are looking to have their teams back from holidays by Monday 17th August to prepare for their harvest but actual picking around 18th-20th August is not out of the questionJEAN VAUDOISEY
Jean Vaudoisey – 2019. 31.12.2020 billn. Tasted with Romain Poirrotte in Volnay, 17 November 2020. Domaine Jean Vaudoisey 6 Rue du Pied de la Vallée 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 59 More reports for Domaine Jean Vaudoisey Romain on 2020: “2020 was a deception! In the growing season we saw lots of grapes on the vines but in. PROFILE: DOMAINE D’ARDHUY (CORGOLOIN) Deep colour. High toned and floral, slightly closed nose. Very good concentration of ripe fruit that’s coupled with very good length. Balanced and interesting. 2003 Domaine d’Ardhuy, Corton Clos du Roi. An equal mixture of 50 and 20 year-old vines. The nose isGRÉGOIRE HOPPENOT
Tasted with Grégoire Hoppenot, this year in sunny ‘Les Roches,’ 24 February 2021. Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot Les Roches 69820 Fleurie Tel : +33 7 85 60 02 01 www ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTROSE GOLD AND BURGUNDY WEDDING About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub-appellations? Aloxe-Corton. Auxey-Duresses.BIG RED DIARY
HERE. Domaines number 299-320 visited since I began my tour of 2019s – though one chose to present their 2018s! In this issue, I visited more new domains (for here) than the older names I caught up with – for instance producers who provided great Petit Chablis or Beaune 1ers wines in my blind-tastings this year, plus a small but welcome diversion in the area of Pouilly-Fuissé. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PIERRICK BOULEY
Tasted in Volnay with Pierrick Bouley, 15 March 2018. Domaine Pierrick Bouley 5, Place de l’Eglise 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 69 You may not a change of name for this domaine. Wine sold 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTROSE GOLD AND BURGUNDY WEDDING About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub-appellations? Aloxe-Corton. Auxey-Duresses.BIG RED DIARY
HERE. Domaines number 299-320 visited since I began my tour of 2019s – though one chose to present their 2018s! In this issue, I visited more new domains (for here) than the older names I caught up with – for instance producers who provided great Petit Chablis or Beaune 1ers wines in my blind-tastings this year, plus a small but welcome diversion in the area of Pouilly-Fuissé. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PIERRICK BOULEY
Tasted in Volnay with Pierrick Bouley, 15 March 2018. Domaine Pierrick Bouley 5, Place de l’Eglise 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 69 You may not a change of name for this domaine. Wine sold 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH the current stage of 2021’s growth. 2.6.2021 billn. Recent vintages compared – each at the end of May – Chambre d’Agriculture, Côte d’Or. 2021 So far: – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter,then
17. A BURGUNDY VINTAGE CHART The Côte d’Or whites in particular show the difficulty of generalised scores – there are 2018 whites that are absolutely 19/20 – so you may think that at the top-end, the quality of the vintage is the same as in 2017. Actually there are far fewer 19/20 wines in 2018 than in 2017 – but hey! Version 1.80 – February 2018. Version1.70
WINES DE LA WEEKEND
Friday/Saturday wines in Beaune – something required for the Sunday evening with mushroom risotto – I’m sure I’ll think of something 🙂 The deep, saturated, colour of 2015 – youthful too. A blast of black fruit – blackberry but not quite blue – there’s a mineral,graphite, undertow
BEAUNE 1ER CLOS DES MOUCHES Although in existence since 1880, Maison Drouhin were initially involved in the trading and ageing wines. Maurice Drouhin joined the family company in 1918. In 1921 he decided to buy vines – but they had to be the best and closest possible as all the travel in this time was still by horse. TheARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
OFFER OF THE DAY
1 day ago · From a Swiss merchant. I have only tasted their 2018s and 2019s but here is a producer who I admire very much – they were one of my star domaines for the 2019 vintage. Don’t go looking PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges.DEGUSTATION
1990 Michel Juillot, Corton Perrières There’s clearly a little age in the colouring, but nothing brown. The nose is modest but sweet, with a little deep fruit compôte.BIG RED DIARY
1 day ago · An expensive evening at £90 for the ticket, but considering there was a ¼ glass of each wine, and the cost per bottle is in many cases higher than the cost of a ticket, value is of courserelative.
BIG RED DIARY
2008 A&R Olivier, Bourgogne Chardonnay Using a ‘Diam’ seal. Medium yellow. The nose has the faintest creamyness which hints to brioche and sherbet, but majors on sweet green-yellow fruit. ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTROSE GOLD AND BURGUNDY WEDDING About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub-appellations? Aloxe-Corton. Auxey-Duresses.BIG RED DIARY
HERE. Domaines number 299-320 visited since I began my tour of 2019s – though one chose to present their 2018s! In this issue, I visited more new domains (for here) than the older names I caught up with – for instance producers who provided great Petit Chablis or Beaune 1ers wines in my blind-tastings this year, plus a small but welcome diversion in the area of Pouilly-Fuissé. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PIERRICK BOULEY
Tasted in Volnay with Pierrick Bouley, 15 March 2018. Domaine Pierrick Bouley 5, Place de l’Eglise 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 69 You may not a change of name for this domaine. Wine sold 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTROSE GOLD AND BURGUNDY WEDDING About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub-appellations? Aloxe-Corton. Auxey-Duresses.BIG RED DIARY
HERE. Domaines number 299-320 visited since I began my tour of 2019s – though one chose to present their 2018s! In this issue, I visited more new domains (for here) than the older names I caught up with – for instance producers who provided great Petit Chablis or Beaune 1ers wines in my blind-tastings this year, plus a small but welcome diversion in the area of Pouilly-Fuissé. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PIERRICK BOULEY
Tasted in Volnay with Pierrick Bouley, 15 March 2018. Domaine Pierrick Bouley 5, Place de l’Eglise 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 69 You may not a change of name for this domaine. Wine sold 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH the current stage of 2021’s growth. 2.6.2021 billn. Recent vintages compared – each at the end of May – Chambre d’Agriculture, Côte d’Or. 2021 So far: – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter,then
17. A BURGUNDY VINTAGE CHART The Côte d’Or whites in particular show the difficulty of generalised scores – there are 2018 whites that are absolutely 19/20 – so you may think that at the top-end, the quality of the vintage is the same as in 2017. Actually there are far fewer 19/20 wines in 2018 than in 2017 – but hey! Version 1.80 – February 2018. Version1.70
WINES DE LA WEEKEND
Friday/Saturday wines in Beaune – something required for the Sunday evening with mushroom risotto – I’m sure I’ll think of something 🙂 The deep, saturated, colour of 2015 – youthful too. A blast of black fruit – blackberry but not quite blue – there’s a mineral,graphite, undertow
BEAUNE 1ER CLOS DES MOUCHES Although in existence since 1880, Maison Drouhin were initially involved in the trading and ageing wines. Maurice Drouhin joined the family company in 1918. In 1921 he decided to buy vines – but they had to be the best and closest possible as all the travel in this time was still by horse. TheARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
OFFER OF THE DAY
1 day ago · From a Swiss merchant. I have only tasted their 2018s and 2019s but here is a producer who I admire very much – they were one of my star domaines for the 2019 vintage. Don’t go looking PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges.DEGUSTATION
1990 Michel Juillot, Corton Perrières There’s clearly a little age in the colouring, but nothing brown. The nose is modest but sweet, with a little deep fruit compôte.BIG RED DIARY
1 day ago · An expensive evening at £90 for the ticket, but considering there was a ¼ glass of each wine, and the cost per bottle is in many cases higher than the cost of a ticket, value is of courserelative.
BIG RED DIARY
2008 A&R Olivier, Bourgogne Chardonnay Using a ‘Diam’ seal. Medium yellow. The nose has the faintest creamyness which hints to brioche and sherbet, but majors on sweet green-yellow fruit. ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTROSE GOLD AND BURGUNDY WEDDING About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub-appellations? Aloxe-Corton. Auxey-Duresses.BIG RED DIARY
HERE. Domaines number 299-320 visited since I began my tour of 2019s – though one chose to present their 2018s! In this issue, I visited more new domains (for here) than the older names I caught up with – for instance producers who provided great Petit Chablis or Beaune 1ers wines in my blind-tastings this year, plus a small but welcome diversion in the area of Pouilly-Fuissé. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PIERRICK BOULEY
Tasted in Volnay with Pierrick Bouley, 15 March 2018. Domaine Pierrick Bouley 5, Place de l’Eglise 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 69 You may not a change of name for this domaine. Wine sold 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. ABOUT… – BURGUNDY-REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTBURGUNDY VINTAGE REPORTROSE GOLD AND BURGUNDY WEDDING About Burgundy Report. The previously free, 3x per year Burgundy Reports, stopped at the end of 2013, replaced by the subscription Burgundy Report – so that I could continue to eat! The subscription report is, of-course, today’s de-facto Burgundy Report, and is published 11 times per year because there’s nobody to visit inAugust!
09. A-Z: BURGUNDY APPELLATIONS 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations – Burgundy-Report. 09. A-Z: Burgundy appellations. Some describe the Burgundy region as the most difficult to understand. Could that be due to the mix of red, white, pink and fizzy wines and almost 700 appellations if you include their sub-appellations? Aloxe-Corton. Auxey-Duresses.BIG RED DIARY
HERE. Domaines number 299-320 visited since I began my tour of 2019s – though one chose to present their 2018s! In this issue, I visited more new domains (for here) than the older names I caught up with – for instance producers who provided great Petit Chablis or Beaune 1ers wines in my blind-tastings this year, plus a small but welcome diversion in the area of Pouilly-Fuissé. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges. PROFILE: DOMAINE CHANTAL REMY (MOREY) Domaine Louis Remy is housed in a very nice building on the Place du Monument in the middle of Morey St.Denis – the same building where the family wine business began in 1820. The name of the domaine changed from Louis Remy to Domaine Chantal Remy in 2009 – Louis had died in 1982 leaving Chantal’s mother, Marie-Louise, in charge. PROFILE: DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Profile: Domaine Ballot-Millot. 26.11.2018 billn. Tasted in Meursault with Charles Ballot, 26 November 2018. Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils. 9, rue de la Goutte d’Or. 21190 Meursault. Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 39. www.ballotmillot.com. The Ballot-Millot estate is spread over 10 hectares of vineyards – 2 hectares are planted to red, but 8 arewhite
PIERRICK BOULEY
Tasted in Volnay with Pierrick Bouley, 15 March 2018. Domaine Pierrick Bouley 5, Place de l’Eglise 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 69 You may not a change of name for this domaine. Wine sold 2015 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2015 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets. Hmm, quite a tight nose, just a little freshness and oak – the fruit starts as just an accent. Good volume in the mouth, lots of layers of flavour too – growing intensity of flavour. Today a little muddled in the middle buta super finish.
PROFILE: MAISON JOSEPH DE BUCY (BEAUNE) Profile: Maison Joseph de Bucy (Beaune) Maison Joseph de Bucy closed its business after the 2002 vintage. The house of Joseph de Bucy was born in 1996 in Beaune and specialises in white wines from Meursault. Joseph de Bucy’s life has been closely linked to wine. He started with an enology course in Dijon followed by a year in Paris for THE SPECTACULAR RISE & FALL OF MAISON ILAN The 2014s of Maison Ilan were still for sale online – see here – until almost the end of September 2016 – yet, as you will see, these wines languish in their barrels (still), along with their counterparts from 2015 and even some barrels of 2013s – all seemingly untended after being impounded by local authorities in France. THE CURRENT STAGE OF 2021’S GROWTH the current stage of 2021’s growth. 2.6.2021 billn. Recent vintages compared – each at the end of May – Chambre d’Agriculture, Côte d’Or. 2021 So far: – A year with reasonably cold winter temperatures followed by sunglasses and t-shirts in the vines in February/March. – April turning colder then, for a few days, hotter,then
17. A BURGUNDY VINTAGE CHART The Côte d’Or whites in particular show the difficulty of generalised scores – there are 2018 whites that are absolutely 19/20 – so you may think that at the top-end, the quality of the vintage is the same as in 2017. Actually there are far fewer 19/20 wines in 2018 than in 2017 – but hey! Version 1.80 – February 2018. Version1.70
WINES DE LA WEEKEND
1 day ago · Friday/Saturday wines in Beaune – something required for the Sunday evening with mushroom risotto – I’m sure I’ll think of something 🙂 The deep, saturated, colour of 2015 – youthful too. A blast of black fruit – blackberry but not quite blue – there’s a mineral, graphite, undertow BEAUNE 1ER CLOS DES MOUCHES Although in existence since 1880, Maison Drouhin were initially involved in the trading and ageing wines. Maurice Drouhin joined the family company in 1918. In 1921 he decided to buy vines – but they had to be the best and closest possible as all the travel in this time was still by horse. TheARNAUD ET SOPHIE
Arnaud et Sophie – 2019. Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020. Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat 5 Place de la Maire 21700 Vosne-Romanée Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18 www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected) Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches ofproducers in Vosne
OFFER OF THE DAY
23 hours ago · From a Swiss merchant. I have only tasted their 2018s and 2019s but here is a producer who I admire very much – they were one of my star domaines for the 2019 vintage. Don’t go looking PROFILE: DOMAINE CHEVROT ET FILS (MARANGES) The domaine’s larges 1er Cru Maranges parcel, 0.80 hectares of vines planted in the late 1960s. P2 and quite perfumed. More mineral with a little P flavour too and it’s a long line of flavour. A more stern character here. Domaine Chevrot et Fils. 19 route de Couches. 71150, Cheilly-lès-Maranges.DEGUSTATION
1990 Michel Juillot, Corton Perrières There’s clearly a little age in the colouring, but nothing brown. The nose is modest but sweet, with a little deep fruit compôte.BIG RED DIARY
23 hours ago · An expensive evening at £90 for the ticket, but considering there was a ¼ glass of each wine, and the cost per bottle is in many cases higher than the cost of a ticket, value is of courserelative.
BIG RED DIARY
2008 A&R Olivier, Bourgogne Chardonnay Using a ‘Diam’ seal. Medium yellow. The nose has the faintest creamyness which hints to brioche and sherbet, but majors on sweet green-yellow fruit.BIG RED DIARY
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ECHÉZEAUX – OR GRANDS-ECHÉZEAUX – WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES?_In another place
,
I gave my answer to the differences, or positioning, of these two AOPs. Here are my thoughts – but what do you think?_ You can see all of these spellings on labels, the most common is that last one, so that’s what I’ll use: Échezeaux, Échézeaux, Echezeaux or Echézeaux. GRANDS? WELL, ONE IS INDEED BIGGER THAN THE OTHER – BUT THE REVERSEOF THE NAMING:
* Grands-Echézeaux, 9.14 hectares, on modestly sloping limestone ground – practically flat versus Echézeaux – north of Vosne inFlagey-Echézeaux
* Echézeaux, 36.26 hectares, on a limestone and marl terroir – multiple slopes, dips, altitudes, full-sun and part shaded – also north of Vosne in Flagey-Echézeaux Grands-Echézeaux does usually seem to be the ‘grander’ wine when you taste after Echézeaux, but older producers suggest that the prefix ‘Grand’ is not used as a form of one-upmanship versus Echézeaux, rather that it describes the much longer rows of vines than seen in the more ‘parcellated’ Echézeaux – so they say… Of-course the structural character of Grands-Echézeaux is very different to Echézeaux and I see this as probably due to its proximity to the Clos de Vougeot – the wall of the Clos often seeming an arbitrary separation between the two – it’s probably not unreasonable then that DRC hold that their Grands-Echézeaux is perhaps the longest-lived of all their wines. That said, their Echézeaux is not a bad keeper either – I remember Jasper Morris kindly giving me a sip of the DRC ’59 Echézeaux from a bottle that he’d enjoyed at lunch in BB&R that day with Burghound (in roughly 2008) which was robust and young – their BB&R own-bottled ’57 Bonnes-Mares was the more drinkable/open of those two that day(!) In young Grands-Echézeaux, when not drowned out by oak (a common problem), I very often find an almond aroma that I never find in Echézeaux, and an Echézeaux is, to me, more classically ‘Vosne-like’ than Grands-Echézeaux – again, perhaps, due to Grands-Echézeaux’s proximity to the Clos. It’s easy to consider Echézeaux a second-rank grand cru in the context of Vosne-Romanée (yes, I know, it’s in Flagey…) but a single tour of a dozen or more young Echézeaux often has me in raptures – or, indeed 28 ofthem
!
Considering the size of the vineyard, Echézeaux shows much more consistency in quality (if not style) than other large grand crus such as Clos de Vougeot or Corton. Styles can confound everything – of course! Lots of whole-clusters – or not. Tons of new oak – or not. Elegant or powerful – etcetera… I’ve tasted every year since 2000, and I do think that the DRC Echézeaux has been consistently in the top half-dozen Echézeaux every year since at least 2005 – but that simply means that I like their stylistic choices – though it can be a close-run thing with other domaines… I’m ashamed to say that I never bought any of his Grands-Echézeaux, so can’t comment on those, but for those lucky enough to still have some, I think Nicky Potel got extra-special juice from ‘somewhere’ in 1997 – his Echézeaux is one of the wines of the vintage – and it’s now starting to blossom fabulously – it’s currently much more interesting than his 1999…SHARE THIS:
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By billn on 30th April 2020 * __2Comments for this entry BURGUET’S 2016 MES FAVOURITES Either through simple bad luck, or a poor connection with the domaine’s elevage, and despite the renown of this particular cuvée, here’s a wine that I’ve never really enjoyed, and in many vintages too. This shows quite well though! 2016 JEAN-LUC & ERIC BURGUET, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN MES FAVOURITESVIEILLES-VIGNES
There’s aromatic concentration here, a little herb and eventually, a little sour cherry fruit – the more the aeration the more attractive it becomes and I’m slowly starting to see a real invitation to drink. The flavour is herbed again, like the nose, but with fine concentration for a villages wine and there’s an energy to match. Fresh and complex finishing – still quite a herby wine but overall this is still attractive in style and a good drink too.REBUY – MAYBE
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By billn on 29th April 2020 * __Comments for this entry Read more Big Red Diary StoriesBILL NANSON DAILY
Updates (usually) from Burgundy.* Follow me at
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02-2020
THE FEBUARY 2020 ISSUE OF BURGUNDY-REPORT2018 BEAUJOLAIS
2018 Beaujolais: 'This time the weather was with us!'THE PRODUCERS
_62 domaines, 8 completely new to this site, and their 2018s – over 420 wines. That's over 3,000 wines in the 2018 vintage reports to-date. Plus from each producer a few words on their 2018 and 2019 campaigns. As always, those extra-special wines are highlighted foryou:_
Anne-Sophie Dubois – 2018 Bernard Jomain – 2018 Céline et Nicolas Hirsch – 2018 Château Bellevue – 2018 Château Bonnet – 2018 Château de La Chaize – 2018 Château de La Terrière – 2018 Château des Bachelards – 2017 Château des Jacques – 2018 Château des Ravatys – 2018 Château du Basty – 2018 Château Moulin à Vent – 2017 Château Pierreux + Mommessin – 2018 Château Poncié – 2018 Château Thivin – 2018 Claire & Fabien Chasselay – 2018 Clos de la Roilette – 2018 Daniel Bouland – 2018 David Large – 2018 David-Beaupère – 2018de Bel Air – 2018
de La Grand’Cour – 2018des Nugues – 2018
des Ronzes, Sornin – 2018 des Terres Dorées – 2018du Breuil – 2019
du Paradis – 2018
Fabien Collonge – 2018 Georges Duboeuf – 2018 Gilles Copéret – 2018 Gilles Paris – 2018Girin – 2018
Grégoire Hoppenot – 2018 Jean Foillard – 2018 Jean-Marc Burgaud – 2018 Julien Sunier – 2018 La Pirolette – 2018Labruyère – 2018
Laurent Martray – 2018Le Nid – 2018
Les Bois du Chat – 2018Longère – 2018
Louis-Claude Desvignes – 2018 Manoir du Carra Sambardier – 2018 Mathieu et Camille Lapierre – 2018Mee Godard – 2018
Monternot – Les Jumeaux – 2018Paul Janin – 2018
Philippe Deschamps – 2018 Profile: Antoine Sunier Profile: Domaine de Boischampt Profile: Domaine L’Épicurieux Profile: Dupeuble Père et Fils Profile: Jean-Claude Lapalu Profile: Julie Balagny Profile: Pauline Passot Profile: Stéphane Aviron Raphaël Chopin – 2018 Richard Rottiers – 2018Thillardon – 2018
Trenel – 2018
Vincent Audras – 2018SHARE THIS:
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01-2020
THE JANUARY 2020 ISSUE OF BURGUNDY-REPORT UNASHAMEDLY CHABLIS 2018 2018 Chablis – What a surprise…THE PRODUCERS
_64 domaines and their 2018s – over 650 wines. That's practically 2,600 wines in the 2018 vintage reports to-date. Plus from each producer a few words on their 2018 and 2019 campaigns. As always, those extra-special wines are highlighted for you:_ 56x 2018 Petit Chablis Agnes et Didier Dauvissat – 2018 Alain Geoffroy – 2018 Alice & Olivier De Moor – 2018Beaufumé – 2018
Besson – 2018
Billaud-Simon – 2018 Céline et Frédéric Gueguen – 2018 Charly Nicolle – 2018 Chaude Ecuelle – 2018 Château de Béru – 2018Chevallier – 2018
Christophe et Fils – 2018 Claire, Laurence et Denis Race – 2018 Clotilde Davenne – 2018Colombier – 2018
Corine et Jean-Pierre Grossot – 2018 Daniel Seguinot – 2018 Daniel, Sébastien & Vincent Dampt – 2018d’Henri – 2018
Domaine du Chardonnay – 2018 Drouhin Vaudon – 2018 Eléonore Moreau – 2018 Eleni & Edouard Vocoret – 2018 François Raveneau – 2018 Garnier & Fils – 2018 Gilbert Picq – 2018 Guillaume Vrignaud – 2018 Jean Collet & Fils – 2018 Jean Dauvissat – 2018 Jean-Claude Courtault + Michelet – 2018 Jean-Claude et Romain Bessin – 2018 Jean-Hughes & Guilhem Goisot – 2018 Jean-Marc Brocard – 2018 Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin – 2018 La Chablisienne – 2018La Motte – 2018
Laroche – 2018
Laurent Tribut – 2018l’Enclos – 2018
Long-Depaquit – 2018 Louis Michel – 2018 Louis Moreau – 2018Malandes – 2018
Marronniers & Maupertuis – 2018Millet – 2018
Moreau-Naudet – 2018 Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre – 2018Oudin – 2018
Patrick Puize – 2018 Pattes Loups – 2017Pinson – 2018
Profile: Cyril Gautheron Roland Lavantureux – 2018Roy – 2018
Samuel Billaud – 2018 Séguinot-Bordet – 2018Servin – 2018
Testut – 2018
Thomas Ventoura – 2018 Vignoble Dampt Frères – 2018 Vincent Dauvissat – 2018Vocoret – 2018
William Fevre – 2018 Yvon & Laurent Vocoret – 2018SHARE THIS:
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LikeLoading...Read more Burgundy Reports THERE IS NO BROADER OR MORE IN-DEPTH COVERAGE OF ALL OF BURGUNDY______
Subscribe to Burgundy Report YOU STILL LIKE TO HAVE SOMETHING TOUCHY? THE FINEST WINES OF BURGUNDY A portable, hard-wearing guide to the Côte d’Or plus 90 producers of note and their best wines. Truth be told, there should have been 150 great producers – but not in the 320 pages that were prescribed. It’s probably time to start working on a new one – eh?BURGUNDY REPORT
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Big Red Diary overview * echézeaux – or grands-echézeaux – what are the differences? * Burguet’s 2016 Mes Favourites * rain, rain, (don’t) go away… * Guy Amiot’s 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles-Vignes * getting bigger; comte liger-belair’s echézeaux… Burgundy Reports overviewLatest Reports:
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